 |
Matronics Email Lists
Web Forum Interface to the Matronics Email Lists
|
| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest
|
 Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:51 pm Post subject: elevator control horn drilling, spell checked version |
 |
|
I used six 470-4 of the correct length. Daniel Lloyd might be willing to
send on an extra 4130 steel plate I fabricated after he takes his from the
two I sent him.
Again, I'll try to explain the basics:
1) Chose the best hole: usually the one you drilled first.
2) Line up you counterbalance arms with the end of the HS. Lock them down
with clamps, not just Duct tape.
3) put your fabricated indexing block that you drilled(Make sure this is
perfectly 90 degrees in all directions, in other words not the cause of the
original problem) with a drill press between the two horns.
4) Put your drill bit or bolt through the correct hole and through the block
and see where the second hole is out of alignment.
5) slightly enlarge the second hole only where needed.
6) Temporarily put the plate you get from Daniel on the outside of the
elevator horn (the one with the slightly enlarged hole) and mark the hole
location on the 4130 steel plate.
7) Remove the plate and Drill the plate to the correct hole size.
 With the plate off, Drill the plate undersize, say #40 for the six
rivets where the meat of the horn and the plate is thickest(Away from the
lightening holes)
9) put the plate back on the elevator horn with the nut going through both
horns and the center drilling block and lock both together with c clamps.
10) with everything locked down perfectly true(Counterbalance arms, etc)
thru drill as many of the #40 holes as possible from the plate into the
elevator horn to size #30. cleco as you go.
11) Now that the everything has been indexed while everything is locked
tight, you can always drill the last remaining hole(s) you can't get to by
removing the elevator.
12) Prime and paint your plate...I used Tempo primer and Tempo Propeller
paint out the the can.
13) Rivet you plate on.
14) No reason the six rivets should fail(remember the horns are riveted to
the ribs and those don't fail), but even if they did the original hole is
still there in the elevator horn and it is only slightly enlarged...you
should be able to land and you might not even experience any
flutter...basically you might not even know.
15) I liked this fix better than welding the plate because the welds screw
up the powder coat and the heat might weaken the part. Welding the hole
closed and re-drilling...don't like re-drilling into non original material.
15 points that might help, but promise me you will not vote for me for
anything except President.
Got to finish this plane before I announce my candacy.
John G.
| Quote: | From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: elevator control horn drilling
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 23:29:27 -0400
John, looks like I'm going down a route similar to yours. Thanks for the
pics. What rivets did you use?
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>
>I had the additional requirement of needing to align my counter balance
>arms, my horn hole was slightly less than 90 degrees itrue in all
>dimensions. I ended doing the plate and riveting it on to the horn.
>
>I"ll send picture tomorrow if you are interested.
>
>JOhn G.
>>From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: elevator control horn drilling
>>Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2007 16:25:58 -0500
>>
>>
>>
>>John (or anyone), what was Vans final advice regarding this situation? I
>>may be facing a similar situation with reduced material between the hole
>>and the end of the horn.
>>
>>I've searched the forum but can't find additional references.
>>
>>Thanks
>>do not archive
>>
>>John Gonzalez wrote:
>>>
>>><indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>Hi Richard,
>>>
>>>I just got off the phone with Van's and asked them to have the powers
>>>that be review the building manual and make a comment about being
>>>careful to respect the up/down dimension of where the drill will exit
>>>out of the second hole on the second horn. Not jus tbe concerned about
>>>the most aft horn being the designated guide.
>>>
>>>I wanted to ask you the minimum edge distance as you stated, is that in
>>>steel or in alluminum?
>>>
>>>I discussed the issue of welding on a plate and and he did not think
>>>that was necessary, there also could be a weakening of the original
>>>material at the intersection of the new plate and the horn.
>>>
>>>Just for discussion, (If I could not sleep because of this) he discussed
>>>an alternate remedy, riveting another plate of similair material(4130
>>>steel) with say 6 rivets using the same hole, just to extend the gap
>>>between the hole edge and the bottom edge of the horn.
>>>
>>>As I have stated, I have 6/32 of material on the bottom edge from hole
>>>edge to horn bottom edge, and when this is all torqued down with washers
>>>pinching this together I wonder how exposed to stresses this 6/32" of
>>>material will be. still need to review the connection, but alteast
>>>there are a couple of alternative remedies other than rework
>>>
>>>JOhn G. 409
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
|
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 3:40 am Post subject: elevator control horn drilling, spell checked version |
|
|
Very much appreciated John!
Like others, my counterbalances are not perfectly aligned when the
trailing edges are aligned, but oh well.
Bill "Empennage complete except for ##(at)% elevator horn, starting QB
wings" Watson
40605
John Gonzalez wrote:
| Quote: |
I used six 470-4 of the correct length. Daniel Lloyd might be willing
to send on an extra 4130 steel plate I fabricated after he takes his
from the two I sent him.
Again, I'll try to explain the basics:
1) Chose the best hole: usually the one you drilled first.
2) Line up you counterbalance arms with the end of the HS. Lock them
down with clamps, not just Duct tape.
3) put your fabricated indexing block that you drilled(Make sure this
is perfectly 90 degrees in all directions, in other words not the
cause of the original problem) with a drill press between the two horns.
4) Put your drill bit or bolt through the correct hole and through the
block and see where the second hole is out of alignment.
5) slightly enlarge the second hole only where needed.
6) Temporarily put the plate you get from Daniel on the outside of the
elevator horn (the one with the slightly enlarged hole) and mark the
hole location on the 4130 steel plate.
7) Remove the plate and Drill the plate to the correct hole size.
With the plate off, Drill the plate undersize, say #40 for the six
rivets where the meat of the horn and the plate is thickest(Away from
the lightening holes)
9) put the plate back on the elevator horn with the nut going through
both horns and the center drilling block and lock both together with c
clamps.
10) with everything locked down perfectly true(Counterbalance arms,
etc) thru drill as many of the #40 holes as possible from the plate
into the elevator horn to size #30. cleco as you go.
11) Now that the everything has been indexed while everything is
locked tight, you can always drill the last remaining hole(s) you
can't get to by removing the elevator.
12) Prime and paint your plate...I used Tempo primer and Tempo
Propeller paint out the the can.
13) Rivet you plate on.
14) No reason the six rivets should fail(remember the horns are
riveted to the ribs and those don't fail), but even if they did the
original hole is still there in the elevator horn and it is only
slightly enlarged...you should be able to land and you might not even
experience any flutter...basically you might not even know.
15) I liked this fix better than welding the plate because the welds
screw up the powder coat and the heat might weaken the part. Welding
the hole closed and re-drilling...don't like re-drilling into non
original material.
15 points that might help, but promise me you will not vote for me for
anything except President.
Got to finish this plane before I announce my candacy.
John G.
> From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
> Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: elevator control horn drilling
> Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 23:29:27 -0400
>
>
>
> John, looks like I'm going down a route similar to yours. Thanks
> for the pics. What rivets did you use?
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
>>
>> <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
>>
>> I had the additional requirement of needing to align my counter
>> balance arms, my horn hole was slightly less than 90 degrees itrue
>> in all dimensions. I ended doing the plate and riveting it on to
>> the horn.
>>
>> I"ll send picture tomorrow if you are interested.
>>
>> JOhn G.
>>
>>
>>> From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>>> Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: elevator control horn drilling
>>> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2007 16:25:58 -0500
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> John (or anyone), what was Vans final advice regarding this
>>> situation? I may be facing a similar situation with reduced
>>> material between the hole and the end of the horn.
>>>
>>> I've searched the forum but can't find additional references.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> do not archive
>>>
>>> John Gonzalez wrote:
>>>>
>>>> <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Richard,
>>>>
>>>> I just got off the phone with Van's and asked them to have the
>>>> powers that be review the building manual and make a comment about
>>>> being careful to respect the up/down dimension of where the drill
>>>> will exit out of the second hole on the second horn. Not jus tbe
>>>> concerned about the most aft horn being the designated guide.
>>>>
>>>> I wanted to ask you the minimum edge distance as you stated, is
>>>> that in steel or in alluminum?
>>>>
>>>> I discussed the issue of welding on a plate and and he did not
>>>> think that was necessary, there also could be a weakening of the
>>>> original material at the intersection of the new plate and the horn.
>>>>
>>>> Just for discussion, (If I could not sleep because of this) he
>>>> discussed an alternate remedy, riveting another plate of similair
>>>> material(4130 steel) with say 6 rivets using the same hole, just
>>>> to extend the gap between the hole edge and the bottom edge of the
>>>> horn.
>>>>
>>>> As I have stated, I have 6/32 of material on the bottom edge from
>>>> hole edge to horn bottom edge, and when this is all torqued down
>>>> with washers pinching this together I wonder how exposed to
>>>> stresses this 6/32" of material will be. still need to review the
>>>> connection, but alteast there are a couple of alternative remedies
>>>> other than rework
>>>>
>>>> JOhn G. 409
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
|
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
LloydDR(at)wernerco.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 5:19 am Post subject: elevator control horn drilling, spell checked version |
|
|
Just tell me where to send the extra one and I will of course pass it on
to another. I do not see how I could have drilled it any other way. My
edge clearance was not acceptable in my opinion, so I did/will do as
John did and attach the plate. Weight wise it makes little to no
difference.
Just let me know where to send it.
Dan
N289DT
--
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 7:44 am Post subject: elevator control horn drilling, spell checked version |
|
|
Bill,
I would not be so sure your trailing edges are perfectly aligned if the
counterbalance arms are off.
I would lock up the counterbalance arms, truing them to the ends of the HS
and then pull a string line between the trailing edges of the two elevators.
When you think about it, because everything was designed by computer and
fabricated by machine the only way I can figure it would be out of wack was
if there is a twist in the elevator spars, which is very possible.
I think more likely there was an issue with the drilling of the second horn,
my drilling block was made by using a shopsmith in drill press mode and the
drill bit creeps and the table was not perfectly true in all directions.
Hence, I since purchased a very nice drill press.
My feeling, see what the string line shows, but I trued the counterbalance
arms based on my thoughts spelled out above. oh, I also had the hole
distance issue on the second horn.
JOhn G.
| Quote: | From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: elevator control horn drilling, spell checked
version
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2007 07:40:22 -0400
Very much appreciated John!
Like others, my counterbalances are not perfectly aligned when the trailing
edges are aligned, but oh well.
Bill "Empennage complete except for ##(at)% elevator horn, starting QB wings"
Watson
40605
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>
>I used six 470-4 of the correct length. Daniel Lloyd might be willing to
>send on an extra 4130 steel plate I fabricated after he takes his from
>the two I sent him.
>
>Again, I'll try to explain the basics:
>
>1) Chose the best hole: usually the one you drilled first.
>2) Line up you counterbalance arms with the end of the HS. Lock them down
>with clamps, not just Duct tape.
>3) put your fabricated indexing block that you drilled(Make sure this is
>perfectly 90 degrees in all directions, in other words not the cause of
>the original problem) with a drill press between the two horns.
>4) Put your drill bit or bolt through the correct hole and through the
>block and see where the second hole is out of alignment.
>5) slightly enlarge the second hole only where needed.
>6) Temporarily put the plate you get from Daniel on the outside of the
>elevator horn (the one with the slightly enlarged hole) and mark the hole
>location on the 4130 steel plate.
>7) Remove the plate and Drill the plate to the correct hole size.
> With the plate off, Drill the plate undersize, say #40 for the six
>rivets where the meat of the horn and the plate is thickest(Away from the
>lightening holes)
>9) put the plate back on the elevator horn with the nut going through both
>horns and the center drilling block and lock both together with c clamps.
>10) with everything locked down perfectly true(Counterbalance arms, etc)
>thru drill as many of the #40 holes as possible from the plate into the
>elevator horn to size #30. cleco as you go.
>11) Now that the everything has been indexed while everything is locked
>tight, you can always drill the last remaining hole(s) you can't get to by
>removing the elevator.
>12) Prime and paint your plate...I used Tempo primer and Tempo Propeller
>paint out the the can.
>13) Rivet you plate on.
>14) No reason the six rivets should fail(remember the horns are riveted to
>the ribs and those don't fail), but even if they did the original hole is
>still there in the elevator horn and it is only slightly enlarged...you
>should be able to land and you might not even experience any
>flutter...basically you might not even know.
>15) I liked this fix better than welding the plate because the welds screw
>up the powder coat and the heat might weaken the part. Welding the hole
>closed and re-drilling...don't like re-drilling into non original
>material.
>
>15 points that might help, but promise me you will not vote for me for
>anything except President.
>Got to finish this plane before I announce my candacy.
>
>John G.
>
>>From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: elevator control horn drilling
>>Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 23:29:27 -0400
>>
>>
>>
>>John, looks like I'm going down a route similar to yours. Thanks for
>>the pics. What rivets did you use?
>>
>>John Gonzalez wrote:
>>>
>>><indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
>>>
>>>I had the additional requirement of needing to align my counter balance
>>>arms, my horn hole was slightly less than 90 degrees itrue in all
>>>dimensions. I ended doing the plate and riveting it on to the horn.
>>>
>>>I"ll send picture tomorrow if you are interested.
>>>
>>>JOhn G.
>>>
>>>
>>>>From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>>>>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>Subject: Re: elevator control horn drilling
>>>>Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2007 16:25:58 -0500
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>John (or anyone), what was Vans final advice regarding this situation?
>>>>I may be facing a similar situation with reduced material between the
>>>>hole and the end of the horn.
>>>>
>>>>I've searched the forum but can't find additional references.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks
>>>>do not archive
>>>>
>>>>John Gonzalez wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>><indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Hi Richard,
>>>>>
>>>>>I just got off the phone with Van's and asked them to have the powers
>>>>>that be review the building manual and make a comment about being
>>>>>careful to respect the up/down dimension of where the drill will exit
>>>>>out of the second hole on the second horn. Not jus tbe concerned about
>>>>>the most aft horn being the designated guide.
>>>>>
>>>>>I wanted to ask you the minimum edge distance as you stated, is that
>>>>>in steel or in alluminum?
>>>>>
>>>>>I discussed the issue of welding on a plate and and he did not think
>>>>>that was necessary, there also could be a weakening of the original
>>>>>material at the intersection of the new plate and the horn.
>>>>>
>>>>>Just for discussion, (If I could not sleep because of this) he
>>>>>discussed an alternate remedy, riveting another plate of similair
>>>>>material(4130 steel) with say 6 rivets using the same hole, just to
>>>>>extend the gap between the hole edge and the bottom edge of the horn.
>>>>>
>>>>>As I have stated, I have 6/32 of material on the bottom edge from hole
>>>>>edge to horn bottom edge, and when this is all torqued down with
>>>>>washers pinching this together I wonder how exposed to stresses this
>>>>>6/32" of material will be. still need to review the connection, but
>>>>>alteast there are a couple of alternative remedies other than rework
>>>>>
>>>>>JOhn G. 409
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
|
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2007 4:35 pm Post subject: elevator control horn drilling, spell checked version |
|
|
Hmmm. I will check it with a string (perhaps there's a laser in there
somewhere). Eyeballing it seems pretty clear but I'm all learning curve
at this point. It should all line up (weldments excepted).
Thanks for the extra plate.
Bill "Fix the elevator horn" Watson
'605
John Gonzalez wrote:
| Quote: |
Bill,
I would not be so sure your trailing edges are perfectly aligned if
the counterbalance arms are off.
I would lock up the counterbalance arms, truing them to the ends of
the HS and then pull a string line between the trailing edges of the
two elevators. When you think about it, because everything was
designed by computer and fabricated by machine the only way I can
figure it would be out of wack was if there is a twist in the elevator
spars, which is very possible.
I think more likely there was an issue with the drilling of the second
horn, my drilling block was made by using a shopsmith in drill press
mode and the drill bit creeps and the table was not perfectly true in
all directions. Hence, I since purchased a very nice drill press.
My feeling, see what the string line shows, but I trued the
counterbalance arms based on my thoughts spelled out above. oh, I also
had the hole distance issue on the second horn.
JOhn G.
> From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
> Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: elevator control horn drilling, spell checked
> version
> Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2007 07:40:22 -0400
>
>
>
> Very much appreciated John!
>
> Like others, my counterbalances are not perfectly aligned when the
> trailing edges are aligned, but oh well.
>
> Bill "Empennage complete except for ##(at)% elevator horn, starting QB
> wings" Watson
> 40605
>
> John Gonzalez wrote:
>>
>> <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
>>
>> I used six 470-4 of the correct length. Daniel Lloyd might be
>> willing to send on an extra 4130 steel plate I fabricated after he
>> takes his from the two I sent him.
>>
>> Again, I'll try to explain the basics:
>>
>> 1) Chose the best hole: usually the one you drilled first.
>> 2) Line up you counterbalance arms with the end of the HS. Lock them
>> down with clamps, not just Duct tape.
>> 3) put your fabricated indexing block that you drilled(Make sure
>> this is perfectly 90 degrees in all directions, in other words not
>> the cause of the original problem) with a drill press between the
>> two horns.
>> 4) Put your drill bit or bolt through the correct hole and through
>> the block and see where the second hole is out of alignment.
>> 5) slightly enlarge the second hole only where needed.
>> 6) Temporarily put the plate you get from Daniel on the outside of
>> the elevator horn (the one with the slightly enlarged hole) and mark
>> the hole location on the 4130 steel plate.
>> 7) Remove the plate and Drill the plate to the correct hole size.
>> With the plate off, Drill the plate undersize, say #40 for the
>> six rivets where the meat of the horn and the plate is thickest(Away
>> from the lightening holes)
>> 9) put the plate back on the elevator horn with the nut going
>> through both horns and the center drilling block and lock both
>> together with c clamps.
>> 10) with everything locked down perfectly true(Counterbalance arms,
>> etc) thru drill as many of the #40 holes as possible from the plate
>> into the elevator horn to size #30. cleco as you go.
>> 11) Now that the everything has been indexed while everything is
>> locked tight, you can always drill the last remaining hole(s) you
>> can't get to by removing the elevator.
>> 12) Prime and paint your plate...I used Tempo primer and Tempo
>> Propeller paint out the the can.
>> 13) Rivet you plate on.
>> 14) No reason the six rivets should fail(remember the horns are
>> riveted to the ribs and those don't fail), but even if they did the
>> original hole is still there in the elevator horn and it is only
>> slightly enlarged...you should be able to land and you might not
>> even experience any flutter...basically you might not even know.
>> 15) I liked this fix better than welding the plate because the welds
>> screw up the powder coat and the heat might weaken the part. Welding
>> the hole closed and re-drilling...don't like re-drilling into non
>> original material.
>>
>> 15 points that might help, but promise me you will not vote for me
>> for anything except President.
>> Got to finish this plane before I announce my candacy.
>>
>> John G.
>>
>>
>>
>>> From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>>> Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: elevator control horn drilling
>>> Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 23:29:27 -0400
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> John, looks like I'm going down a route similar to yours. Thanks
>>> for the pics. What rivets did you use?
>>>
>>> John Gonzalez wrote:
>>>>
>>>> <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
>>>>
>>>> I had the additional requirement of needing to align my counter
>>>> balance arms, my horn hole was slightly less than 90 degrees itrue
>>>> in all dimensions. I ended doing the plate and riveting it on to
>>>> the horn.
>>>>
>>>> I"ll send picture tomorrow if you are interested.
>>>>
>>>> JOhn G.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>>>>> Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>> Subject: Re: elevator control horn drilling
>>>>> Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2007 16:25:58 -0500
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> John (or anyone), what was Vans final advice regarding this
>>>>> situation? I may be facing a similar situation with reduced
>>>>> material between the hole and the end of the horn.
>>>>>
>>>>> I've searched the forum but can't find additional references.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>> do not archive
>>>>>
>>>>> John Gonzalez wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi Richard,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I just got off the phone with Van's and asked them to have the
>>>>>> powers that be review the building manual and make a comment
>>>>>> about being careful to respect the up/down dimension of where
>>>>>> the drill will exit out of the second hole on the second horn.
>>>>>> Not jus tbe concerned about the most aft horn being the
>>>>>> designated guide.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I wanted to ask you the minimum edge distance as you stated, is
>>>>>> that in steel or in alluminum?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I discussed the issue of welding on a plate and and he did not
>>>>>> think that was necessary, there also could be a weakening of the
>>>>>> original material at the intersection of the new plate and the
>>>>>> horn.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Just for discussion, (If I could not sleep because of this) he
>>>>>> discussed an alternate remedy, riveting another plate of
>>>>>> similair material(4130 steel) with say 6 rivets using the same
>>>>>> hole, just to extend the gap between the hole edge and the
>>>>>> bottom edge of the horn.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> As I have stated, I have 6/32 of material on the bottom edge
>>>>>> from hole edge to horn bottom edge, and when this is all torqued
>>>>>> down with washers pinching this together I wonder how exposed to
>>>>>> stresses this 6/32" of material will be. still need to review
>>>>>> the connection, but alteast there are a couple of alternative
>>>>>> remedies other than rework
>>>>>>
>>>>>> JOhn G. 409
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
|
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jesse(at)saintaviation.co
Guest
|
| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 4:24 am Post subject: elevator control horn drilling, spell checked version |
|
|
I have seen a little variation in this and I can't explain it. For looks,
having the counterbalance arms both lined up with the horizontal is more
important, For performance, probably having them somewhere in the middle of
any variation would give you the best performance. With the rudder on, you
cannot see from one elevator to the other, so performance is the only issue
if they are not perfect. The weldments definitely do vary a fair bit, but
this is not seen and the plans have instructions for handling any variation.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
--
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 6:59 am Post subject: elevator control horn drilling, spell checked version |
|
|
The weldments don't effect the way the elevators hang, it is only when you
tie the two elevators together that it makes things possibly out of
alignment.
Thats why the descrepency is either due to the a twist in the elevator
spar(s), twist in the HS or when you join the two horns together to make
them as one.
John G.
Do not archive
[quote]From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: elevator control horn drilling, spell checked
version
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2007 08:23:54 -0400
I have seen a little variation in this and I can't explain it. For looks,
having the counterbalance arms both lined up with the horizontal is more
important, For performance, probably having them somewhere in the middle
of
any variation would give you the best performance. With the rudder on, you
cannot see from one elevator to the other, so performance is the only issue
if they are not perfect. The weldments definitely do vary a fair bit, but
this is not seen and the plans have instructions for handling any
variation.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
--
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jesse(at)saintaviation.co
Guest
|
| Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 7:47 am Post subject: elevator control horn drilling, spell checked version |
|
|
Right.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
--
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
|
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
|
Get Email Distribution Too!
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
