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Trailing edge mod

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roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 1:34 pm Post subject: Trailing edge mod

The consensus of the group was that I should add the 3/8" aluminum tubing to 

my trailing edge before covering.  As my manual does not cover this I was 

wondering how close to the ribs this should come.  Any other tips?    No 

3/8" aluminum tubing in my town, but lots of used 3/8" aluminum arrow 

shafts.     Thanks.        Ron NB Ore

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experimental208nd(at)comc
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 1:44 pm Post subject: Trailing edge mod

I used the expandable foam. Just prayed it in let it over flow, and cut it 

off with a razor blade. Just get the regular type not the super expand type.

Jay

---

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Vic Baker

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 71
Location: Carson City, Nevada

Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 2:17 pm Post subject: Re: Trailing edge mod

I installed 5/16 tubing,  zero clearance between ribs.  (3/8 tubing would not quite fit my trailing edge)  The tubing is available from ACS.  I used a full 350 degree heat shrink and I could still see a very slight deformation in that trailing edge.

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_________________
Vic Baker
Series 7
Carson City, Nevada

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 4:41 pm Post subject: Trailing edge mod

3/8" arrow shafts, Ron? Wow, that seems huge. My Dad was an archer and 

I've got a lot of his old arrows around here, mostly fiberglas, and 

none are over 5/16".

I'd hate to be on the receiving end of a 3/8" arrow! : )

Anyway, I got 3/8" tubing from Aircraft Spruce, 6061-T6, item 

#03-35500, $.99/ft., and I got two 12 ft lengths of it, because mine is 

a Speedster with wings just 12' long each. I cut each to fit between 

the ribs/rib caps.

Skystar manual calls for .028-.035" wall thickness. This is in the 

Classic IV manual, Aug '03 revision. With this stiffening, SS says you 

can go to 350 degrees on the fabric....that seems like a bit much to 

me, and I quit at 310...very tight.

As far as how close to the ribs, I left mine short about 1/8" to allow 

for any condensation to be free to find the drain holes in the fabric. 

I smeared structural adhesive the length of the individual tubes, then 

rolled them in the trailing edge, and rotated them to spread the epoxy.



Lynn

On Tuesday, February 7, 2006, at 04:32  PM, ron schick wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 <roncarolnikko(at)hotmail.com>



 The consensus of the group was that I should add the 3/8" aluminum 

 tubing to

 my trailing edge before covering.  As my manual does not cover this I 

 was

 wondering how close to the ribs this should come.  Any other tips?    

 No

 3/8" aluminum tubing in my town, but lots of used 3/8" aluminum arrow

 shafts.     Thanks.        Ron NB Ore

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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

pwmac(at)sisna.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 5:23 pm Post subject: Trailing edge mod

Is there a link I have missed with a picture of the installation?

Thanks, Paul

=============



At 02:17 PM 2/7/2006, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  



I installed 5/16 tubing,  zero clearance between ribs.  (3/8 tubing would 

not quite fit my trailing edge)  The tubing is available from ACS.  I used 

a full 350 degree heat shrink and I could still see a very slight 

deformation in that trailing edge.



--------

Vic Baker

Series 7

Carson City, Nevada





Read this topic online here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=10689#10689

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jdmcbean(at)cableone.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 07, 2006 5:39 pm Post subject: Trailing edge mod

Ron,

	We did this on the Series 7 and then again on the Sport.. It became part of

the manual shortly after...    .375 x .035 wall aluminum tubing cut to fit

just inside rib to rib..  Watch the edges.. there is a Hysol bead that will

keep the tubing too high.. After you get them fitted use Hysol to bond them

in and then rivet to the inside edge... Shrunk to 350 on several different

aircraft including the factory aircraft.. worked great.



Fly Safe !!

John McBean

www.sportplanellc.com

"The Sky is not the Limit...  It's a Playground"



--

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hflynn46531(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2006 3:35 am Post subject: Trailing edge mod

Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> wrote:  



3/8" arrow shafts, Ron? Wow, that seems huge. My Dad was an archer and 

I've got a lot of his old arrows around here, mostly fiberglas, and 

none are over 5/16".

I'd hate to be on the receiving end of a 3/8" arrow! : )

Anyway, I got 3/8" tubing from Aircraft Spruce, 6061-T6, item 

#03-35500, $.99/ft., and I got two 12 ft lengths of it, because mine is 

a Speedster with wings just 12' long each. I cut each to fit between 

the ribs/rib caps.

Skystar manual calls for .028-.035" wall thickness. This is in the 

Classic IV manual, Aug '03 revision. With this stiffening, SS says you 

can go to 350 degrees on the fabric....that seems like a bit much to 

me, and I quit at 310...very tight.

As far as how close to the ribs, I left mine short about 1/8" to allow 

for any condensation to be free to find the drain holes in the fabric. 

I smeared structural adhesive the length of the individual tubes, then 

rolled them in the trailing edge, and rotated them to spread the epoxy.



Lynn

On Tuesday, February 7, 2006, at 04:32 PM, ron schick wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 



 The consensus of the group was that I should add the 3/8" aluminum 

 tubing to

 my trailing edge before covering. As my manual does not cover this I 

 was

 wondering how close to the ribs this should come. Any other tips? 

 No

 3/8" aluminum tubing in my town, but lots of used 3/8" aluminum arrow

 shafts. Thanks. Ron NB Ore



On my S5 I used the the aluminum tubing off an old TV antnna. It was vary stiff and light. I flattened one end to fit into the trailing edge and shaped the other end to butt up to the rear wing spar.I placed them half way between each rib and used glue to hold them in place.I heat shrunk my fabric to 375 with no visable scaloping.






	






			

---------------------------------

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