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Was rivnuts now nutplates

 
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occom



Joined: 26 Aug 2006
Posts: 404

PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 6:26 am    Post subject: Was rivnuts now nutplates Reply with quote

I bought a Rivnut kit and I tried 6-32 rivnuts and also mounted a 8-32 mini nutplate on a top-rib portion that I have here. The rivnut uses a fairly large hole but I suppose it could work, backed up with aluminum and epoxy it's likely strong enough. It does protrude from the rib on top a lot, they make flush ones I think. I wan't all that enthused about the whole idea.

The nutplate on the other hand was an ideal solution. It will fit quite handily in the space provided and you could likely leave out the aluminum strip that gets epoxied to the bottom of the capstrip. I attached it with two 3/32 rivets ( number 95001 from Kitfox) and I don't think it would ever move. The rivets do protrude slightly from the top of the capstrip so some type plastic washer or rubber strip under the skylight might be a good idea, I doubt the wingtip would care. So, I'll be using the nutplates, probably in 6-32 because the holes are smaller and a # 6 truss head screw will be much stronger than an aluminum rivet, #8 would be overkill.

Dave Goddard- Mod IV 1050/582
do not archive
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lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 2:41 pm    Post subject: Was rivnuts now nutplates Reply with quote

Dave,

I probably installed two or three hundred or more nutplates on the Lancair
IV I helped with. Every hinge (probably 80 on the maingear door hinges
alone), inspection cover, floor board, side panel and even the cowl is held
on with screws or bolts backed up with nutplates. It doesn't take long to
establish a system even without the fancy tools.

What I did was drill the hole, put a bolt in from the bottom and scerw on
the nutplane a couple of turns, drill a hole through one wing and drop a
rivet into that hole, then drill the other hole. Remove everything and
counter sink the holes and assemble in the proper position. For speed, it
does help to have a rivet squeezer, but I have used a pair of visegrip type
pliers with smoothed and polished jaws at times in tight places. One
suggestion would be to get a 100° counter sink and use flat head rivets then
no need to add a spacer.

Lowell Fitt
Cameron Park, CA
Model IV-1200 R-912 UL Warp
1998 880 hrs.
---


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dholly



Joined: 19 Dec 2006
Posts: 40
Location: Upstate NY

PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 8:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Was rivnuts now nutplates Reply with quote

I came across this handiwork and liked it enough to save it. I believe it was a Just Highlander builder, sorry, no name.

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