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Top forward skin help.

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Carl

Joined: 04 May 2007
Posts: 44
Location: Aiken, SC

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 12:41 pm Post subject: Top forward skin help.

Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line.  Should I pre-bend it around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the rounded edge of a table.  It is just the last two inches that can’t be realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don’t want it lifting off the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl   

       [quote][b]

_________________
Carl Bell
Building N947CB
RV 7A

seiders(at)bellsouth.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 1:41 pm Post subject: Top forward skin help.

Precurling the horizontal edge with an edge rolling tool helps quite 

a bit on the 6. Don't see why it shouldn't on the 7.

Dick RV6A

At 04:37 PM 10/3/2007, you wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 

(forward top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line.  Should I 

pre-bend it around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend 

it over the rounded edge of a table.  It is just the last two inches 

that can't be realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't 

want it lifting off the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl

Bob Collins

Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 470
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 1:43 pm Post subject: Re: Top forward skin help.

I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge roller.



But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great.

_________________
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/

stevea(at)svpal.org
Guest

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 2:05 pm Post subject: Top forward skin help.

Carl,



That is a tough edge to get to lay flat. I found standard clecos in 

every rivet hole would still not pull it completely flat along the 

longeron. There was still some puckering between the clecos. Wing nut 

clecos did pull it in.



Here's what I did:

Crease the edge with Avery's edge rolling tool (or whatever tool works 

for you): http://www.averytools.com/pc-45-70-edge-rolling-tool.aspx. Put 

a cleco in EVERY hole (unless it interferes with the rivet gun). Use 

wing nut clecos on the adjacent holes while riveting. Make sure to push 

the rivet gun onto the skin hard enough to push the top skin edge flat 

(may require someone pushing on the opposite side of the fuselage to 

keep it from sliding sideways).



Mine came out without any puckering between rivets.



good luck,

Steve Allison

RV-6A

Carl Bell wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

 Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward 

 top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it 

 around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the 

 rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that can’t be 

 realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don’t want it lifting off 

 the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl

steve(at)newtech.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 2:09 pm Post subject: Top forward skin help.

I had the same concerns but doing nothing worked for me. The top skin 

snugged right in there when we riveted it. My concern was not warranted 

as I am very pleased with the results.



Steve Eberhart - RV-7A Slider, just riveted the forward top skin a week 

and a half ago. Working on canopy now.



Carl Bell wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

 Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward 

 top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line. Should I pre-bend it 

 around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the 

 rounded edge of a table. It is just the last two inches that can’t be 

 realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don’t want it lifting off 

 the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl

bobbyhester(at)newwavecom
Guest

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:47 pm Post subject: Top forward skin help.

I did the same thing! Worked great!



Surfing the web with my laptop from Hopkinsville, KY

Visit my RV7A website: http://webpages.charter.net/bobbyhester/MyFlyingRV7A.htm



Bob Collins wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I've done both of those things, Carl -- rolled the skin and used the edge roller.



 But I also bought some wingnut clecos and those work great.



 --------

 Bob Collins

 St. Paul, Minn.

 Letters from Flyover Country

 http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137919#137919

Neal.George(at)hurlburt.a
Guest

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 5:39 am Post subject: Top forward skin help.

Carl - 



I took mine to the local sheet metal shop and asked them to roll it.

Made a HUGE difference.   



Neal George

================

Can some one give me some pointers on how to make the F-7106 (forward

top skin) lay flat along the longeron rivet line.  Should I pre-bend it

around some pipe, use an edge roller or maybe hand bend it over the

rounded edge of a table.  It is just the last two inches that can't be

realistically pulled down with clecos, and I don't want it lifting off

the longeron between rivets. Thx Carl

Carl

Joined: 04 May 2007
Posts: 44
Location: Aiken, SC

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 5:47 am Post subject: Top forward skin help.

Thanks all for your help on that pesky forward skin, I'll do a little

pre-bending and get some wing nut clecos.  Carl



--

_________________
Carl Bell
Building N947CB
RV 7A

Carl

Joined: 04 May 2007
Posts: 44
Location: Aiken, SC

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:11 am Post subject: Top forward skin help.

George, that sound like a good idea,  do you remember the radius they used?

Thx Carl



Carl W Bell

New Venture Consulting

Mobile:  803.640.2760

www.newventureconsulting.com

carlbell(at)gforcecable.com



--

_________________
Carl Bell
Building N947CB
RV 7A

jim jewell

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 82
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 12:56 pm Post subject: Top forward skin help.

Hi Carl,



I hand curled or curved the skin.



I did not treat the edges with an edging tool.



I located two 2X4s long enough to slip the forward skin between them with 

enough left over to hold them in my bench mounted Vice,.

I clamped the edge of the skin to be riveted between the 2x4s. with a large 

C clamps.

This somewhat clumsy assemblage was then clamped into the vice.

With care not to crease the skin at the 2x4 edges I pulled the skin over 

enough that the desired gentle curve was created.

I repeated the set up for the other side. I did not try to make the skin 

curvature exactly match the supporting ribs.

When done the skin rested not Clekoed onto the structure with the skins 

outer edges about two inches away from the fuse sides. Clekoes easily pulled 

the skin on as desired.



When riveted the skin fit very nice , no puckering at all and no evidence of 

edging tool use.



Keep building,



Jim in Kelowna



---

_________________
"I never make mistreaks"

Carl

Joined: 04 May 2007
Posts: 44
Location: Aiken, SC

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 1:37 pm Post subject: Top forward skin help.

Hi Bobby,



I noticed you have an offset panel (I think it Affordable's) in your plane.

Are you happy with it and would you do that one again or the XL?  Also can

you see your Garmin map in the dock ok in the position you have?  I'm going

with a G 496 and twin GRT's, an SL 30 and GTX 327.  Any thoughts would be

appreciated.  Carl



Carl W Bell

New Venture Consulting

Mobile:  803.640.2760

www.newventureconsulting.com

carlbell(at)gforcecable.com



--

_________________
Carl Bell
Building N947CB
RV 7A

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