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Paul Valovich
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 75
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 Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 6:27 am Post subject: ProSeal |
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I posted this over the weekend on the VAF site, but got no response.
-8A QB N192NM so I haven't had the fun assembling the tanks. However, it is time to install the float-type fuel senders.
I've got a tube of "stuff" from Vans that's supposed to work - if I can really figure out the mixing instructions. Some really basic questions:
1. Urban legend sez to toss the cork gaskets. Is that correct?
2. Bead size - what's appropriate? While subscribing to the "More is better" idea, what happens if the excess oozes from the cover plate into the tank and possibly breaks loose sometime in the future?
3. Rubber gaskets - just in case the damn thing doesn't work and I have to remove the sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets without sealer, but put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly. Good idea?
4. Shelf life - or more accurately - "After mixing useful life". How long do I have after mixing for useful application capability?
Paul Valovich
N192NM Reserved (Again)
[quote][b]
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Bob Collins
Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 470
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota
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| Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 8:58 am Post subject: Re: ProSeal |
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//1. Urban legend sez to toss the cork gaskets. Is that correct?
As with many things in RV building, there's no right or wrong answer. It's a matter of personal taste. Ken Scott says the cork gaskets will leak as they dry out and recommends just prosealing. Others have reported no problem with the cork gaskets. Still others have used cork gaskets AND proseal.
Part of your decision may have to do with what happens if you have to remove the sender. It's a lot easier just unscrewing and pulling it off if all you've used is cork. When meetingthe Van's SB, I pulled both access plates off -- one with cork and proseal and one with just proseal -- and found both were quite an exercise.
//2. Bead size - what's appropriate? While subscribing to the "More is better" idea, what happens if the excess oozes from the cover plate into the tank and possibly breaks loose sometime in the future?
I subscribe to the more is better rule. I see little liklihood of something breaking off in the future. Keep the George Orndorff rule in mind. "If you look in there and say, "that can't leak," it probably won't. But if you look at i and say, "I don't THINK that'll leak, it probably will."
// Rubber gaskets - just in case the damn thing doesn't work and I have to remove the sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets without sealer, but put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly. Good idea?
I did not use the rubber gasket because I found it quite difficult with the screws on the call-out to get the sender attached. To me, it seemed the rubber gasket was too think. I just ProSealed.
//4. Shelf life - or more accurately - "After mixing useful life". How long do I have after mixing for useful application capability?
It depends on the temperature. I've used ProSeal in an unheated garage in December and it's REALLY thick but takes a long time to set up so you have more time. I've done it in the heat of summer and while it's easier to apply, It begins to skin over pretty quickly -- within 15, as I recall.
To me THIS is the big problem I have with those tubes rather than the two cans. When I used the cans (and I used two quarts on my tanks, by the way, that's how MUCH I subscribed to the Orndorrf theory (g)), I would use just mix up about 35-40 grams... enough for a couple of ribs, and then work on those two ribs. Then I'd take a long break and mix more up. Lots of popsicle sticks, lots of mess, lots of gloves, but I liked being more slow and methodical and not be under pressure to get stuff done before the ProSeal bomb goes off.
With the tubes...you don't get the mess, but you pay for it with less flexibility on time and if you are very organized and efficient, I think they're a great way to go.
I did buy the tube once (we're talking about the one where you mix it in the tube, right?) for something like $16 and I ended up tossing half of it away because I didn't need that much.
Some people freeze their ProSeal which they say adds life to it etc. I cannot speak to that because while my wife is quite forgiving of my airplane mistress, she draws the line when reaching for an ice cream sandwich and getting a baggie full of ProSeal instead.
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Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
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jfogarty(at)tds.net
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| Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 11:26 am Post subject: ProSeal |
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Here's my question, has anyone ever used EZ Turn Fuellube between the gasket
and the plate, Vs proseal?
Jim
RV9a
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Bob Collins
Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 470
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota
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| Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:04 pm Post subject: Re: ProSeal |
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I don't know any instances of Fuel Lube being used but a few of the folks in the Minnesota Wing of Van Air Force say a product called TiteSeal is a fine alternative.
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Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/ |
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dcw(at)mnwing.org
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| Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 3:11 pm Post subject: ProSeal |
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Hi guys:
On 2 of my RV’s and several other local ones, we have simply used Aviation Form A Gasket (available at any NAPA store) and the cork gaskets to seal the tank covers. This was worked flawlessly with no leaks fore many years.
Give it a try!!
Doug Weiler
N722DW, 400+ hours
On 10/9/07 9:23 AM, "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> wrote:
| Quote: | I posted this over the weekend on the VAF site, but got no response.
-8A QB N192NM so I haven't had the fun assembling the tanks. However, it is time to install the float-type fuel senders.
I've got a tube of "stuff" from Vans that's supposed to work - if I can really figure out the mixing instructions. Some really basic questions:
1. Urban legend sez to toss the cork gaskets. Is that correct?
2. Bead size - what's appropriate? While subscribing to the "More is better" idea, what happens if the excess oozes from the cover plate into the tank and possibly breaks loose sometime in the future?
3. Rubber gaskets - just in case the damn thing doesn't work and I have to remove the sender, I intend to use the provided rubber gaskets without sealer, but put plenty of sealer on the screws before assembly. Good idea?
4. Shelf life - or more accurately - "After mixing useful life". How long do I have after mixing for useful application capability?
Paul Valovich
N192NM Reserved (Again)
il Forum -
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dean.psiropoulos(at)veriz
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 10:01 pm Post subject: ProSeal |
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I just used some 3 year old pro seal that spent most of its life in a south
Florida hangar where temps are 110 in the daytime with the doors closed
(metal Tee hangar). Believe it or not, both parts were still mixable
although I did have to punch through a rubbery film on the top of the white
stuff to get to the good stuff. So....is does have its limits but I think a
year is little on the conservative side. No, I didn't use it on fuel tanks.
____________________________Original Message ______________________________
From: "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Re: ProSeal - small amt.for sale
I just used some proseal I've had in the freezer that is four years old.....
Regards,
Bob Japundza
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