rv10(at)sinkrate.com
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 Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:53 pm Post subject: fuel tank gotchas for the learning impaired |
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We skipped finishing up the tanks with proseal when we had originally got to that point nearly 8 months ago because it was too cold in the garage. Summer came around and it was too hot. I figured we were out of excuses and that we needed to get them done before it was too cold once again. After two full days this weekend of working with the “Black Death” I am not so patiently waiting for the proseal to set up before performing the leak test. I have a couple words of wisdom for those that still have the honor of finishing up your tanks. Not about the proseal part cause I sucked at that I am sure but…
<![if !supportLists]>1) <![endif]>Before riveting the T-1012 Tank Attach Zee’s to the tanks test fit each of them between the flanges of the wing spars while it’s still easy to run the edges across your scotchbrite wheel. I have been handily taking off the primer and several thousandths of aluminum from their edges while carefully filing them thinner so they will slip between the wing spar flanges.
<![if !supportLists]>2) <![endif]>Check the rear most nutplates where the tanks screw into the splice strip on the outboard leading edge assemblies for clearance from the wing spar flange. The rear most rivet on the last nutplate was so close to the flange that I feared it would contact it when the gas tank was fitted. I am sure if this did happen it would make my wings snap in half in flight one day so I drilled out the nutplates and replaced them with MS21053-L08’s (the one’s with both rivet holes on one side). I figure the rear #40 hole that is now empty will make my plane that much lighter which I will need to keep up with the turbo Subie!
<![if !supportLists]>3) <![endif]>This is my favorite… When we finished riveting the last of the rear tank baffle we removed the tanks from the cradle and turned them over so they were sitting on the bench with the leading edge up. Our hopes were that the bead of proseal would let gravity help it flow into the seams around the tank baffle (proseal flow… that’s funny). To my horror I heard a clunking as I rotated it. Be sure you double check that your float arms are correctly clipped in place before subjecting them to a life without sunshine. I know they are substandard at best but I am pretty sure they don’t work for s*#t bouncing and sloshing around unattached. So I don’t offend anyone on the list I will just say we…
<![if !supportLists]>a) <![endif]>removed the sender and the non-prosealed rubber gasket
<![if !supportLists]>b) <![endif]>removed the sender w/o the gasket
<![if !supportLists]>c) <![endif]>removed the sender, rubber gasket, and cleaned off the proseal
<![if !supportLists]>d) <![endif]>removed the sender and re-coated with fuel lube
<![if !supportLists]>e) <![endif]>chiseled away at the TIG weld around the sender
(John Cox - circle your favorite answer)
…rescued the float arm and reinstalled the assembly per a, b, c, d, (hell no on e) above!
This should save you several hours of cleanup work from not paying enough attention during the original fitting.
Ben Westfall
#40579
PDX
[quote][b]
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