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dlm46007(at)cox.net
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 Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:07 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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For those who have not fitted the cowl, some advice. The cowl fit is shown in a chapter prior to the firewall forward and baffling. It is not possible to properly fit the cowl without the engine, prop, and spinner in place. The prop and spinner can be there temporarily. The baffling should be in place or there will be difficulty in cutting the baffling (less the silicone) down to size Note that the forward lower ramps have to be cut back substantially so that the lower cowl will fit. We found that the ramps must be cut back to just aft of the starter ring gear.Why Van's did not provide a more accurate set of metal for the standard IO540 is a wonder. Also do not rivet the corner support triangles before fitting the cowl. Riveting the corner triangles fixes the angle of the lower air ramp which must be in a particular orientation for the cowl/silicone/baffling to work. .Also the cowl should be mounted so that the spinner is approximately 1/4 inch above the cowl ring so that after 100 hours , when the motor mount rubber sags the two will be in alignment
[quote][b]
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planesmith(at)hotmail.com
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| Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 6:07 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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Glad you brought this up. I've been working on the cabin top/doors and was wondering if there is any way to fit the cowl without a prop? Mounting the engine and baffling is not a problem but I would like to hold off on ordering the prop. Any ideas?
Vern Smith (#324 cabin top & doors)
| Quote: | From: dlm46007(at)cox.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 15:06:34 -0800
For those who have not fitted the cowl, some advice. The cowl fit is shown in a chapter prior to the firewall forward and baffling. It is not possible to properly fit the cowl without the engine, prop, and spinner in place. The prop and spinner can be there temporarily. The baffling should be in place or there will be difficulty in cutting the baffling (less the silicone) down to size Note that the forward lower ramps have to be cut back substantially so that the lower cowl will fit. We found that the ramps must be cut back to just aft of the starter ring gear.Why Van's did not provide a more accurate set of metal for the standard IO540 is a wonder. Also do not rivet the corner support triangles before fitting the cowl. Riveting the corner triangles fixes the angle of the lower air ramp which must be in a particular orientation for the cowl/silicone/baffling to work. .Also the cowl should be mounted so that the spinner is approximately 1/4 inch above the cowl ring so that after 100 hours , when the motor mount rubber sags the two will be in alignment
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Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Café. Stop by today! [quote][b]
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
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| Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 6:12 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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Although I agree that the engine, prop and spinner back plate need to be in place to fit the cowl, I don’t think the baffles matter much. You can easily trim those to fit after the cowl is finished by putting the top cowl on, reaching in through the oil door and marking the parts that touch until the top cowl fits fully, then you can trim a little more so there is a small gap so metal won’t touch fiberglass, then put on the baffle seal. That could just add another level of complexity to fitting the cowl if the baffles are already on. We have seen less than 1/8” sag (probably not even measurable) in the engine mount rubbers after 340 hours in N256H, so I wouldn’t go for a whole ¼”. I would say 1/16th to 1/8th max, if any.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: David McNeill [mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 6:07 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: cowl fitting tips.
For those who have not fitted the cowl, some advice. The cowl fit is shown in a chapter prior to the firewall forward and baffling. It is not possible to properly fit the cowl without the engine, prop, and spinner in place. The prop and spinner can be there temporarily. The baffling should be in place or there will be difficulty in cutting the baffling (less the silicone) down to size Note that the forward lower ramps have to be cut back substantially so that the lower cowl will fit. We found that the ramps must be cut back to just aft of the starter ring gear.Why Van's did not provide a more accurate set of metal for the standard IO540 is a wonder. Also do not rivet the corner support triangles before fitting the cowl. Riveting the corner triangles fixes the angle of the lower air ramp which must be in a particular orientation for the cowl/silicone/baffling to work. .Also the cowl should be mounted so that the spinner is approximately 1/4 inch above the cowl ring so that after 100 hours , when the motor mount rubber sags the two will be in alignment
[quote] [b]
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
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| Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 6:38 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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Contact a prop shop and see if you can get a junk prop hub that you can use or have. You can fit the back plate to that and go from there. Just give them the C2YR number and they will know what hub you need. Don’t forget the long lead time on the prop, 2-3 months.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: Vernon Smith [mailto:planesmith(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 9:07 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Glad you brought this up. I've been working on the cabin top/doors and was wondering if there is any way to fit the cowl without a prop? Mounting the engine and baffling is not a problem but I would like to hold off on ordering the prop. Any ideas?
Vern Smith (#324 cabin top & doors)
From: dlm46007(at)cox.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 15:06:34 -0800
For those who have not fitted the cowl, some advice. The cowl fit is shown in a chapter prior to the firewall forward and baffling. It is not possible to properly fit the cowl without the engine, prop, and spinner in place. The prop and spinner can be there temporarily. The baffling should be in place or there will be difficulty in cutting the baffling (less the silicone) down to size Note that the forward lower ramps have to be cut back substantially so that the lower cowl will fit. We found that the ramps must be cut back to just aft of the starter ring gear.Why Van's did not provide a more accurate set of metal for the standard IO540 is a wonder. Also do not rivet the corner support triangles before fitting the cowl. Riveting the corner triangles fixes the angle of the lower air ramp which must be in a particular orientation for the cowl/silicone/baffling to work. .Also the cowl should be mounted so that the spinner is approximately 1/4 inch above the cowl ring so that after 100 hours , when the motor mount rubber sags the two will be in alignment
| Quote: | | blank>http://www.matronics.com/contributionget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listp://forums.matronics.com |
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Café. Stop by today! [quote] [b]
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coop85(at)cableone.net
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| Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 6:40 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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2 thoughts – I installed the baffling after the cowl since you can’t really get a good fit without knowing where the cowl will be.
As for the prop – my spinner lined up nicely with the backplate without any trimming so you might be able to get away with just attaching the backplate and fit the cowling from that. If possible though, I’d recommend getting the prop and spinner on to make sure.
Marcus
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 8:07 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Glad you brought this up. I've been working on the cabin top/doors and was wondering if there is any way to fit the cowl without a prop? Mounting the engine and baffling is not a problem but I would like to hold off on ordering the prop. Any ideas?
Vern Smith (#324 cabin top & doors)
From: dlm46007(at)cox.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 15:06:34 -0800
For those who have not fitted the cowl, some advice. The cowl fit is shown in a chapter prior to the firewall forward and baffling. It is not possible to properly fit the cowl without the engine, prop, and spinner in place. The prop and spinner can be there temporarily. The baffling should be in place or there will be difficulty in cutting the baffling (less the silicone) down to size Note that the forward lower ramps have to be cut back substantially so that the lower cowl will fit. We found that the ramps must be cut back to just aft of the starter ring gear.Why Van's did not provide a more accurate set of metal for the standard IO540 is a wonder. Also do not rivet the corner support triangles before fitting the cowl. Riveting the corner triangles fixes the angle of the lower air ramp which must be in a particular orientation for the cowl/silicone/baffling to work. .Also the cowl should be mounted so that the spinner is approximately 1/4 inch above the cowl ring so that after 100 hours , when the motor mount rubber sags the two will be in alignment
| Quote: | | blank>http://www.matronics.com/contributionget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listp://forums.matronics.com |
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Café. Stop by today! 0123456789 | Quote: | | blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution |
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[quote][b]
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planesmith(at)hotmail.com
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| Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 6:16 am Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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Why didn't I think of that? I'll keep the prop lead time in mind. Thank you all for the suggestions.
Vern Smith
Do not archive
| Quote: | From: jesse(at)saintaviation.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 21:37:12 -0500
.ExternalClass .EC_shape {;} .ExternalClass EC_p.MsoNormal, .ExternalClass EC_li.MsoNormal, .ExternalClass EC_div.MsoNormal {margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:'Times New Roman';} .ExternalClass a:link, .ExternalClass EC_span.MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} .ExternalClass a:visited, .ExternalClass EC_span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} .ExternalClass p {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:'Times New Roman';} .ExternalClass pre {margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;font-family:'Courier New';} .ExternalClass EC_span.EmailStyle20 {font-family:Arial;color:navy;} (at)page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in;} .ExternalClass EC_div.Section1 {page:Section1;}
Contact a prop shop and see if you can get a junk prop hub that you can use or have. You can fit the back plate to that and go from there. Just give them the C2YR number and they will know what hub you need. Don’t forget the long lead time on the prop, 2-3 months.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: Vernon Smith [mailto:planesmith(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 9:07 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Glad you brought this up. I've been working on the cabin top/doors and was wondering if there is any way to fit the cowl without a prop? Mounting the engine and baffling is not a problem but I would like to hold off on ordering the prop. Any ideas?
Vern Smith (#324 cabin top & doors)
From: dlm46007(at)cox.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 15:06:34 -0800
For those who have not fitted the cowl, some advice. The cowl fit is shown in a chapter prior to the firewall forward and baffling. It is not possible to properly fit the cowl without the engine, prop, and spinner in place. The prop and spinner can be there temporarily. The baffling should be in place or there will be difficulty in cutting the baffling (less the silicone) down to size Note that the forward lower ramps have to be cut back substantially so that the lower cowl will fit. We found that the ramps must be cut back to just aft of the starter ring gear.Why Van's did not provide a more accurate set of metal for the standard IO540 is a wonder. Also do not rivet the corner support triangles before fitting the cowl. Riveting the corner triangles fixes the angle of the lower air ramp which must be in a particular orientation for the cowl/silicone/baffling to work. .Also the cowl should be mounted so that the spinner is approximately 1/4 inch above the cowl ring so that after 100 hours , when the motor mount rubber sags the two will be in alignment
| Quote: | | blank>http://www.matronics.com/contributionget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listp://forums.matronics.com |
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Café. Stop by today! 0123456789 | Quote: | | blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution |
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Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word scramble challenge with star power. Play Now! [quote][b]
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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Bill Schlatterer
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 195
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| Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 6:48 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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I know this isn't a 10 but I'm not sure why the prop or hub is is really necessary. I had a bulletin from Vans and they gave me the dimensions for a spacer which was 2.25 inches as I remember it. I took three round pieces of 3/4 plywood plus several nickels for spacers in spacers  to make it exactly 2.25 and put the spinner plate on. I have already fit the cowl and sure hope I haven't messed up. See pix.
The cowl fits better than the pictures show due to the angles and the prop spinner to cowl gap will have to filled a little to make it perfect but who knows if the engine will sag a little etc, so my plan is to get it close, fly it awhile and then fiberglass to final fit.
This is on a 7 but I suspect the same method would work on a 10. I will be glad to scan and send the bulletin if anyone wants to see it. They actually said to fit the cowl without the prop because it makes it so much easier to get on and off what seems like a 1000 times.
Hope this helps
Bill S 7a Ark
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 8:16 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Why didn't I think of that? I'll keep the prop lead time in mind. Thank you all for the suggestions.
Vern Smith
Do not archive
| Quote: | From: jesse(at)saintaviation.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 21:37:12 -0500
.ExternalClass .EC_shape { } (at)page Section1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; } .ExternalClass EC_p.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman' } .ExternalClass EC_li.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman' } .ExternalClass EC_div.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman' } .ExternalClass A:link { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } .ExternalClass EC_span.MsoHyperlink { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } .ExternalClass A:visited { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } .ExternalClass EC_span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } .ExternalClass P { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 0in; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0in; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman' } .ExternalClass PRE { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Courier New' } .ExternalClass EC_span.EmailStyle20 { COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial } .ExternalClass EC_div.Section1 { page: Section1 }
Contact a prop shop and see if you can get a junk prop hub that you can use or have. You can fit the back plate to that and go from there. Just give them the C2YR number and they will know what hub you need. Don’t forget the long lead time on the prop, 2-3 months.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: Vernon Smith [mailto:planesmith(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 9:07 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Glad you brought this up. I've been working on the cabin top/doors and was wondering if there is any way to fit the cowl without a prop? Mounting the engine and baffling is not a problem but I would like to hold off on ordering the prop. Any ideas?
Vern Smith (#324 cabin top & doors)
From: dlm46007(at)cox.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2007 15:06:34 -0800
For those who have not fitted the cowl, some advice. The cowl fit is shown in a chapter prior to the firewall forward and baffling. It is not possible to properly fit the cowl without the engine, prop, and spinner in place. The prop and spinner can be there temporarily. The baffling should be in place or there will be difficulty in cutting the baffling (less the silicone) down to size Note that the forward lower ramps have to be cut back substantially so that the lower cowl will fit. We found that the ramps must be cut back to just aft of the starter ring gear.Why Van's did not provide a more accurate set of metal for the standard IO540 is a wonder. Also do not rivet the corner support triangles before fitting the cowl. Riveting the corner triangles fixes the angle of the lower air ramp which must be in a particular orientation for the cowl/silicone/baffling to work. .Also the cowl should be mounted so that the spinner is approximately 1/4 inch above the cowl ring so that after 100 hours , when the motor mount rubber sags the two will be in alignment
| Quote: | | blank>http://www.matronics.com/contributionget=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listp://forums.matronics.com |
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Café. Stop by today! 0123456789 | Quote: | | blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution |
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Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word scramble challenge with star power. Play Now! | Quote: | | get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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planesmith(at)hotmail.com
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 7:23 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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The photos of your 7 are very nice. I wish the 10s spinner mounted the same way. The back plate isn't held in place by the prop bolts but rather by the bolts that hold the constant speed hub together. At least that's how I read the plans. Your posting did give me an idea, I'm headed up to Van's tomorrow and I'll bug them for any ideas. If they have anything new I'll drop an email to the group.
Vern Smith (#324 doors and cabin top)
Do not archive
| Quote: | From: billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 20:48:15 -0600
.ExternalClass .EC_hmmessage P {padding-right:0px;padding-left:0px;padding-bottom:0px;padding-top:0px;} .ExternalClass EC_BODY.hmmessage {font-size:10pt;font-family:Tahoma;} I know this isn't a 10 but I'm not sure why the prop or hub is is really necessary. I had a bulletin from Vans and they gave me the dimensions for a spacer which was 2.25 inches as I remember it. I took three round pieces of 3/4 plywood plus several nickels for spacers in spacers to make it exactly 2.25 and put the spinner plate on. I have already fit the cowl and sure hope I haven't messed up. See pix.
The cowl fits better than the pictures show due to the angles and the prop spinner to cowl gap will have to filled a little to make it perfect but who knows if the engine will sag a little etc, so my plan is to get it close, fly it awhile and then fiberglass to final fit.
This is on a 7 but I suspect the same method would work on a 10. I will be glad to scan and send the bulletin if anyone wants to see it. They actually said to fit the cowl without the prop because it makes it so much easier to get on and off what seems like a 1000 times.
Hope this helps
Bill S 7a Ark
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Bill Schlatterer
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 195
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| Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 7:55 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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Probably right, not sure about the 10 but actually the plate you see does bolt to the prop hub. In finished form, the center of the spinner backing plate (shown) has to be cut out for the hub to pass through and the spinner plate (shown) actually bolts to the CS hub with the smaller plate on the front of the hub. Then the CS hub itself bolts to the crank. It just works out that the spacer puts the spinner plate in the right place 2.25 inches from the flywheel face. I supposed that is why they ship the spinner plate drilled but not cut out so that you could do this or use it on a fixed pitch prop as well. If I am not mistaken, the fixed pitch prop is exactly 2.25 inches thick as well which is why it works for either one. Anyway I have already said all I know.
Obviously this is in principle and the 2.25 dimension probably only applies to the O-360 series engines.
For what it's worth, I found the document and attached a JPG copy.
Good luck!
Bill S
Do not Archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:23 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
The photos of your 7 are very nice. I wish the 10s spinner mounted the same way. The back plate isn't held in place by the prop bolts but rather by the bolts that hold the constant speed hub together. At least that's how I read the plans. Your posting did give me an idea, I'm headed up to Van's tomorrow and I'll bug them for any ideas. If they have anything new I'll drop an email to the group.
Vern Smith (#324 doors and cabin top)
Do not archive
| Quote: | From: billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 20:48:15 -0600
.ExternalClass .EC_hmmessage P { PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px } .ExternalClass EC_BODY.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma } I know this isn't a 10 but I'm not sure why the prop or hub is is really necessary. I had a bulletin from Vans and they gave me the dimensions for a spacer which was 2.25 inches as I remember it. I took three round pieces of 3/4 plywood plus several nickels for spacers in spacers to make it exactly 2.25 and put the spinner plate on. I have already fit the cowl and sure hope I haven't messed up. See pix.
The cowl fits better than the pictures show due to the angles and the prop spinner to cowl gap will have to filled a little to make it perfect but who knows if the engine will sag a little etc, so my plan is to get it close, fly it awhile and then fiberglass to final fit.
This is on a 7 but I suspect the same method would work on a 10. I will be glad to scan and send the bulletin if anyone wants to see it. They actually said to fit the cowl without the prop because it makes it so much easier to get on and off what seems like a 1000 times.
Hope this helps
Bill S 7a Ark
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capsteve
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 111
Location: NIAGARA FALLS NY
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| Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 8:14 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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here's a quick pic of the prop hub i acquired from a prop shop for 40 bucks shipped. its unairworthy of coarse and he needed to be convinced i wasn't going to try and fly behind it. DUH.. i figured when i was done I'd release it into RV land and let rv10 builders pass it on...
steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:23 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
The photos of your 7 are very nice. I wish the 10s spinner mounted the same way. The back plate isn't held in place by the prop bolts but rather by the bolts that hold the constant speed hub together. At least that's how I read the plans. Your posting did give me an idea, I'm headed up to Van's tomorrow and I'll bug them for any ideas. If they have anything new I'll drop an email to the group.
Vern Smith (#324 doors and cabin top)
Do not archive
| Quote: | From: billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 20:48:15 -0600
.ExternalClass .EC_hmmessage P { PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px } .ExternalClass EC_BODY.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma } I know this isn't a 10 but I'm not sure why the prop or hub is is really necessary. I had a bulletin from Vans and they gave me the dimensions for a spacer which was 2.25 inches as I remember it. I took three round pieces of 3/4 plywood plus several nickels for spacers in spacers to make it exactly 2.25 and put the spinner plate on. I have already fit the cowl and sure hope I haven't messed up. See pix.
The cowl fits better than the pictures show due to the angles and the prop spinner to cowl gap will have to filled a little to make it perfect but who knows if the engine will sag a little etc, so my plan is to get it close, fly it awhile and then fiberglass to final fit.
This is on a 7 but I suspect the same method would work on a 10. I will be glad to scan and send the bulletin if anyone wants to see it. They actually said to fit the cowl without the prop because it makes it so much easier to get on and off what seems like a 1000 times.
Hope this helps
Bill S 7a Ark
|
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Bill Schlatterer
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 195
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| Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 8:43 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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OOps, meant to say the fixed pitch prop spacer for the FP is 2.25 inches on the 7, not the prop itself. Again, may not apply to an IO540 but an old hub or the correct spacer size from Vans for an IO540 would take all the guesswork out of it.
Bill S
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:55 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Probably right, not sure about the 10 but actually the plate you see does bolt to the prop hub. In finished form, the center of the spinner backing plate (shown) has to be cut out for the hub to pass through and the spinner plate (shown) actually bolts to the CS hub with the smaller plate on the front of the hub. Then the CS hub itself bolts to the crank. It just works out that the spacer puts the spinner plate in the right place 2.25 inches from the flywheel face. I supposed that is why they ship the spinner plate drilled but not cut out so that you could do this or use it on a fixed pitch prop as well. If I am not mistaken, the fixed pitch prop is exactly 2.25 inches thick as well which is why it works for either one. Anyway I have already said all I know.
Obviously this is in principle and the 2.25 dimension probably only applies to the O-360 series engines.
For what it's worth, I found the document and attached a JPG copy.
Good luck!
Bill S
Do not Archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:23 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
The photos of your 7 are very nice. I wish the 10s spinner mounted the same way. The back plate isn't held in place by the prop bolts but rather by the bolts that hold the constant speed hub together. At least that's how I read the plans. Your posting did give me an idea, I'm headed up to Van's tomorrow and I'll bug them for any ideas. If they have anything new I'll drop an email to the group.
Vern Smith (#324 doors and cabin top)
Do not archive
| Quote: | From: billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 20:48:15 -0600
.ExternalClass .EC_hmmessage P { PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px } .ExternalClass EC_BODY.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma } I know this isn't a 10 but I'm not sure why the prop or hub is is really necessary. I had a bulletin from Vans and they gave me the dimensions for a spacer which was 2.25 inches as I remember it. I took three round pieces of 3/4 plywood plus several nickels for spacers in spacers to make it exactly 2.25 and put the spinner plate on. I have already fit the cowl and sure hope I haven't messed up. See pix.
The cowl fits better than the pictures show due to the angles and the prop spinner to cowl gap will have to filled a little to make it perfect but who knows if the engine will sag a little etc, so my plan is to get it close, fly it awhile and then fiberglass to final fit.
This is on a 7 but I suspect the same method would work on a 10. I will be glad to scan and send the bulletin if anyone wants to see it. They actually said to fit the cowl without the prop because it makes it so much easier to get on and off what seems like a 1000 times.
Hope this helps
Bill S 7a Ark
|
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so mdard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailnews' target='_new'>Try now! [quote]
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
[b]
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 3:14 am Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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Remember not to drill the spinner front plate that you already have installed in the hub. The orientation of the cylinder on the front of the hub may not be the same on all props.
Nice-looking plenum, but how does the air get in there? J
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: Steven DiNieri [mailto:capsteve(at)adelphia.net]
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 11:14 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
here's a quick pic of the prop hub i acquired from a prop shop for 40 bucks shipped. its unairworthy of coarse and he needed to be convinced i wasn't going to try and fly behind it. DUH.. i figured when i was done I'd release it into RV land and let rv10 builders pass it on...
steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:23 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
The photos of your 7 are very nice. I wish the 10s spinner mounted the same way. The back plate isn't held in place by the prop bolts but rather by the bolts that hold the constant speed hub together. At least that's how I read the plans. Your posting did give me an idea, I'm headed up to Van's tomorrow and I'll bug them for any ideas. If they have anything new I'll drop an email to the group.
Vern Smith (#324 doors and cabin top)
Do not archive
From: billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 20:48:15 -0600
I know this isn't a 10 but I'm not sure why the prop or hub is is really necessary. I had a bulletin from Vans and they gave me the dimensions for a spacer which was 2.25 inches as I remember it. I took three round pieces of 3/4 plywood plus several nickels for spacers in spacers to make it exactly 2.25 and put the spinner plate on. I have already fit the cowl and sure hope I haven't messed up. See pix.
The cowl fits better than the pictures show due to the angles and the prop spinner to cowl gap will have to filled a little to make it perfect but who knows if the engine will sag a little etc, so my plan is to get it close, fly it awhile and then fiberglass to final fit.
This is on a 7 but I suspect the same method would work on a 10. I will be glad to scan and send the bulletin if anyone wants to see it. They actually said to fit the cowl without the prop because it makes it so much easier to get on and off what seems like a 1000 times.
Hope this helps
Bill S 7a Ark
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so mdard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailnews' target='_new'>Try now! [quote] href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com [b]
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DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 5:01 am Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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Is it possible that the nickels will press into the wood and cause an alignment error?
Dave Leikam
40496
wiring wings
[quote] ---
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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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| Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 6:02 am Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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n223rv(at)wolflakeairport
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 6:34 am Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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Just FYI, we used the Van's recommended spacer to set the cowl on my buddy's RV-7 as we did not have the prop.... When we went to install the prop, the prop backplate had over 1/8'' hard interference with the cowl. We had to take almost 1/4'' off the back of the cowl. Sounds easy, but the cowl tapers forward and the pins became infinitely harder to install and the stress on the side hinges went up dramatically. Not to mention the fit was not nearly as nice as it was.
My recommendation would be to have the prop and spinner, or the exact hub and spinner when setting the cowl....
-Mike
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Bill Schlatterer
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 195
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| Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 7:34 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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Bummer, that's not a pretty thing to look forward to now. Just wondering
what caused that since it would look like 2.25 from the flywheel would be
the right spacing based on the plans as well as the instructions. Probably
should have waited but it's a little late now ;-( . I wonder if Vans might
not have understood that I was going CS and sent the instructions for a FP.
I really never thought about the hub spacing being different. Dumb!
Based on your comments though, I probably should have at least gone out to a
friends plane and verified the spacing instead of just going by the
instructions and assuming......
Thanks for the wake up
Bill S
Do not archive
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planesmith(at)hotmail.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 8:52 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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Stopped by and talked to Gus at Van's today about mounting the cowl without a prop. He referred me to the bulletin that Bill mentioned http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Prop_Cowl.pdf and said it will work on any RV including the RV10. When asked about the constant speed prop versus fix he said the cowl is in the same position for both props this allow people to switch to either prop without having to change the cowl (obviously not an option or issue on the 10.)
So are the 2.25" spacer correct for a RV10? That is the question.
Can someone who has a Hartzell prop and spinner mounted, accurately measure between the back side of the S 602-1 spinner back plate and the front face of the flywheel? Preferably without the doubler thickness being included. Armed with this information it should be possible to mount the cowl without a prop. However, using a non-airworthy hub would be a good option as well. All bets are off if using other than a Hartzell prop.
As a note: the RV10 spinner back plate does look just like the RV 7's. It has the six hole in the center that line up with the prop bolts hole. In the plans this center section is cut out by the builder to fit around the constant speed hub before assembly.
Thanks for all the input,
Vern (#324)
> From: billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net
| Quote: | To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 21:33:50 -0600
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Bummer, that's not a pretty thing to look forward to now. Just wondering
what caused that since it would look like 2.25 from the flywheel would be
the right spacing based on the plans as well as the instructions. Probably
should have waited but it's a little late now ;-( . I wonder if Vans might
not have understood that I was going CS and sent the instructions for a FP.
I really never thought about the hub spacing being different. Dumb!
Based on your comments though, I probably should have at least gone out to a
friends plane and verified the spacing instead of just going by the
instructions and assuming......
Thanks for the wake up
Bill S
|
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so much more! Try Wiase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailnews' target='_new'>Try now! [quote][b]
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capsteve
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 111
Location: NIAGARA FALLS NY
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| Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 8:55 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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hey Jessie,
are you suggesting not to drill the front plate to the spinner cone?
steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 6:13 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Remember not to drill the spinner front plate that you already have installed in the hub. The orientation of the cylinder on the front of the hub may not be the same on all props.
Nice-looking plenum, but how does the air get in there? J
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: Steven DiNieri [mailto:capsteve(at)adelphia.net]
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 11:14 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
here's a quick pic of the prop hub i acquired from a prop shop for 40 bucks shipped. its unairworthy of coarse and he needed to be convinced i wasn't going to try and fly behind it. DUH.. i figured when i was done I'd release it into RV land and let rv10 builders pass it on...
steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:23 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
The photos of your 7 are very nice. I wish the 10s spinner mounted the same way. The back plate isn't held in place by the prop bolts but rather by the bolts that hold the constant speed hub together. At least that's how I read the plans. Your posting did give me an idea, I'm headed up to Van's tomorrow and I'll bug them for any ideas. If they have anything new I'll drop an email to the group.
Vern Smith (#324 doors and cabin top)
Do not archive
From: billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 20:48:15 -0600
I know this isn't a 10 but I'm not sure why the prop or hub is is really necessary. I had a bulletin from Vans and they gave me the dimensions for a spacer which was 2.25 inches as I remember it. I took three round pieces of 3/4 plywood plus several nickels for spacers in spacers to make it exactly 2.25 and put the spinner plate on. I have already fit the cowl and sure hope I haven't messed up. See pix.
The cowl fits better than the pictures show due to the angles and the prop spinner to cowl gap will have to filled a little to make it perfect but who knows if the engine will sag a little etc, so my plan is to get it close, fly it awhile and then fiberglass to final fit.
This is on a 7 but I suspect the same method would work on a 10. I will be glad to scan and send the bulletin if anyone wants to see it. They actually said to fit the cowl without the prop because it makes it so much easier to get on and off what seems like a 1000 times.
Hope this helps
Bill S 7a Ark
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so mdard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailnews' target='_new'>Try now! [quote] href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
[b]
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Bill Schlatterer
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 195
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| Posted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 9:33 pm Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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Wow, I have to tell you that sure makes me feel better now because I was not looking forward to refitting the cowl. Vern, thanks for getting the full scoop and passing it on.
Bill S
7a Ark
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 10:51 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Stopped by and talked to Gus at Van's today about mounting the cowl without a prop. He referred me to the bulletin that Bill mentioned http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Prop_Cowl.pdf and said it will work on any RV including the RV10. When asked about the constant speed prop versus fix he said the cowl is in the same position for both props this allow people to switch to either prop without having to change the cowl (obviously not an option or issue on the 10.)
So are the 2.25" spacer correct for a RV10? That is the question.
Can someone who has a Hartzell prop and spinner mounted, accurately measure between the back side of the S 602-1 spinner back plate and the front face of the flywheel? Preferably without the doubler thickness being included. Armed with this information it should be possible to mount the cowl without a prop. However, using a non-airworthy hub would be a good option as well. All bets are off if using other than a Hartzell prop.
As a note: the RV10 spinner back plate does look just like the RV 7's. It has the six hole in the center that line up with the prop bolts hole. In the plans this center section is cut out by the builder to fit around the constant speed hub before assembly.
Thanks for all the input,
Vern (#324)
| Quote: | From: billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 21:33:50 -0600
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Bummer, that's not a pretty thing to look forward to now. Just wondering
what caused that since it would look like 2.25 from the flywheel would be
the right spacing based on the plans as well as the instructions. Probably
should have waited but it's a little late now ;-( . I wonder if Vans might
not have understood that I was going CS and sent the instructions for a FP.
I really never thought about the hub spacing being different. Dumb!
Based on your comments though, I probably should have at least gone out to a
friends plane and verified the spacing instead of just going by the
instructions and assuming......
Thanks for the wake up
Bill S
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 4:25 am Post subject: cowl fitting tips. |
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I am suggesting exactly that if prefitting the cowl with a dummy prop hub. If you have your final prop, then you can drill it, of course.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: Steven DiNieri [mailto:capsteve(at)adelphia.net]
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 11:54 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
hey Jessie,
are you suggesting not to drill the front plate to the spinner cone?
steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 6:13 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Remember not to drill the spinner front plate that you already have installed in the hub. The orientation of the cylinder on the front of the hub may not be the same on all props.
Nice-looking plenum, but how does the air get in there? J
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: Steven DiNieri [mailto:capsteve(at)adelphia.net]
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 11:14 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
here's a quick pic of the prop hub i acquired from a prop shop for 40 bucks shipped. its unairworthy of coarse and he needed to be convinced i wasn't going to try and fly behind it. DUH.. i figured when i was done I'd release it into RV land and let rv10 builders pass it on...
steve dinieri
iflyrv10.com
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:23 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
The photos of your 7 are very nice. I wish the 10s spinner mounted the same way. The back plate isn't held in place by the prop bolts but rather by the bolts that hold the constant speed hub together. At least that's how I read the plans. Your posting did give me an idea, I'm headed up to Van's tomorrow and I'll bug them for any ideas. If they have anything new I'll drop an email to the group.
Vern Smith (#324 doors and cabin top)
Do not archive
From: billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: cowl fitting tips.
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 20:48:15 -0600
I know this isn't a 10 but I'm not sure why the prop or hub is is really necessary. I had a bulletin from Vans and they gave me the dimensions for a spacer which was 2.25 inches as I remember it. I took three round pieces of 3/4 plywood plus several nickels for spacers in spacers to make it exactly 2.25 and put the spinner plate on. I have already fit the cowl and sure hope I haven't messed up. See pix.
The cowl fits better than the pictures show due to the angles and the prop spinner to cowl gap will have to filled a little to make it perfect but who knows if the engine will sag a little etc, so my plan is to get it close, fly it awhile and then fiberglass to final fit.
This is on a 7 but I suspect the same method would work on a 10. I will be glad to scan and send the bulletin if anyone wants to see it. They actually said to fit the cowl without the prop because it makes it so much easier to get on and off what seems like a 1000 times.
Hope this helps
Bill S 7a Ark
Boo! Scare away worms, viruses and so mdard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailnews' target='_new'>Try now! [quote] href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com [b]
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