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Fwd: Fw: nutplates

 
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carlossa52(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:49 am    Post subject: Fwd: Fw: nutplates Reply with quote

Hello, listers
Jeff Small sent me some good information off-list.
With hist permission, I am forwarding to the list.

Cheers
Carlos

---------- Forwarded message ----------


Hi Carlos, FWIW...jeff



Many builders seem to gravitate toward rivnuts when it comes to fasteners that receive screws or machine screws. They really should be using nutplates as nutplates are far stronger than rivnuts and are far, far less likely to "spin" when tightening or loosening.

The main reason for looking askance initially at nutplates is that many builders may view them as more difficult to install. That they are, but as with anything in building an a/c it gets far easier.

In my HDS I may have 6 rivnuts but dozens and dozens of nutplates and anchor plates - ever hear of anchor plates?

Hopefully this info will get you started, or at least view nutplates with a bit less trepidation.

Variety is endless; you can use AC43-13 to look over the selection or look at the pictures in the Wicks catalogue. While there are some specialized one, most of the nutplates you use for a 601/701 will be the standard straight styles in 6-32 or 8-32. Often the 'mini' size comes in handy. I used some floating nutplates but mainly because I had ordered some to see what they were like and decided not to waste my $ but to put them to use. Nutplates are structural fittings and if sized correctly are quite strong. If you just want to have something for an access plate fastener you will like anchor plates. Anchor plates use SS sheet metal screws with a 'B' point - that's important. Again, look at the pictures in Wicks or ACS.

You need to attach plates with flush rivets, but this doesn't mean you need to get all aluminum rivets and do the RV thing. Get some flat or countersunk head 3/32 pop rivets from Wicks (they can be cheap). When you rivet you'll use a flat nosepiece in your hand riveter, not the domed/dished nosepieces you normally use. To make it flush you need to do two things which at first seem to take a lot of time but will get easier as you go. One is to dimple the surface of the .016 or. 025 sheet; second is to take the nutplate and using your drill press and about a 1/4 bit, lightly chamfer the side of the nutplate that will go against the sheet or surface to which you want it attached. Use pliers to hold and you'll catch on as to how much chamfer to remove. You can sometimes (rarely) find already 'dimpled' nutplates but not often. If you are at the beginning of your building experience I would highly recommend buying a micro-stop and a variety of the pilot cutters (at least in #40 and #30). The cutters make countersinking in thicker aluminum, .032 and up, a breeze. Not certain I would use them on the steel in the actual nutplate, however.

Application: drill the center hole for the screw first and make it as close to the diameter of the screw as possible. Put a screw through the sheet and into the nutplate. From underside, mark where the two holes go for rivets. I normally drill one on the mark (use a .093 bit) then use a silver cleco in that hole and drill the other through the other hole. Removed cleco and screw and rivet plate to sheet. It's a good idea to open up the center hole about another .010 before riveting to allow for easy starting and alignment. That's it.

The dimple tool that you see (looks like two fat washers and a nail) comes from Aircraft Tool Supply (part # 5102D 3/32 and also in #5102D1/Cool. They have them in 3/32 and 1/8. Get both. Someday you will want to hang big 10-32 nutplates on the back of the firewall so you don't have to get inside on your head to swap out a gascolator or fuel pump - you will be glad you can do it from the front of the firewall. Same thing goes for other places where getting to the back of a bolt/nut would be awkward or impossible.

The first pix shows variety of what I used, the two in the center being most useful, the one in the upper right which is greenish in color is an anchor plate - you can see difference.

Second shows how to form dimple using your hand riveter.

Third shows dimple. This could be cleaner up further if you have a micro-stop and #40 pilot cutter - go slowly as the .016 and .025 with which we deal doesn't allow much for error.

And that's about it, simple really and unbelievably functional. Far stronger than rivnuts...and on rivnuts; if you take a very small triangular file and file a small notch or two in the hole, the metal will obturate into those areas a bit and add a small amount of 'turn resistance' when tightening the screw.

regards jeff


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Gig Giacona



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1416
Location: El Dorado Arkansas USA

PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 9:18 am    Post subject: Re: Fwd: Fw: nutplates Reply with quote

That is great info. The only problem is I can't find a 3/32 pop rivet with a flat or countersunk head. All the ones I can locate are domed. Anyone have a Wick's (or other) part number?

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W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:09 am    Post subject: Fwd: Fw: nutplates Reply with quote

Not easy to find, indeed.

I found Cherry N at Wicks: [url=http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid 118/index.html]http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid 118/index.html[/url]
Description: "120 DEGREE COUNTERSUNK
Cherry N commercial rivet.Stainless rivet and mandrel with 120 Degree countersunk head."

Cheers

Carlos

On 13/11/2007, Gig Giacona <wr.giacona(at)suddenlink.net (wr.giacona(at)suddenlink.net)> wrote:[quote] --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gig Giacona" <wr.giacona(at)suddenlink.net (wr.giacona(at)suddenlink.net)>

That is great info. The only problem is I can't find a 3/32 pop rivet with a flat or countersunk head. All the ones I can locate are domed. Anyone have a Wick's (or other) part number?

[b]


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:48 pm    Post subject: Fwd: Fw: nutplates Reply with quote

Gig:

I buy such pop rivets from Spencer Aircraft in Puyallup, WA. Call them at
800-424-1160 and tell them what you need. You should be able to specify the
grip length you require. I can't make out the part no. from the information
in the catalog but they will know if you tell them the intended use (I buy
them off the shelf, in person).

Ask them for a catalog when you order. It has a lot of useful data. They
will accept credit cards and mail the rivets promptly. Spencer has been THE
place for homebuilders in the Seattle/ Puget Sound area for about the last
40 years and they are good people to do business with.

George

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 8:07 pm    Post subject: Fwd: Fw: nutplates Reply with quote

Hi Gig;

look up chobert rivets. They are 3/32 and flat head - originally invented for mounting nutplates.

Dave Downey
Harleysville (SE) PA
100 HP Corvair



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