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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:57 am Post subject: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin top |
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Nice pics Patrick, Thanks.
I just started marking mine up and doing some preliminary measurements.
It looks like it will be real tight. That is, the door sill area on the
QB is 37" and the scribe lines are about 37 1/4". Cutting inside the
scribe lines looks like it starts taking away some of the flange
structure. Did you find it very tight and close like that?
On a second front, I ordered a Makita belt sander to help with the top
but it hasn't shipped yet. However, I started looking at the air
powered belt sanders from Yard and HarborF. Potentially a $150
saving.... has anyone used them? What are you using?
Doing this work outside sure looks attractive.
Bill "thinking about a HarboF run" Watson
Patrick ONeill wrote:
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poneill(at)irealms.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:44 pm Post subject: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin top |
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On mine, the scribe lines were very unreliable. The scribes on the cabin
bottom flange under the rear windows varied from 1 1/8" to 7/8" (plans
specify 3/4")and were extremely wavy with dual scribe lines overlapping and
crossing when they started over. I re-marked according to dimensions in the
plans.
I did not finish the fitting yet, but the initial cuts were definitely too
large to fit. The door jams weren't anywhere close to fitting to the
fuselage. I've been waiting until I had enough time to carefully work on the
fit.
As for that magic mini Makita belt sander (
http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=9031 ), when I got home
from the Watsonville class I searched all the local places for one, but no
one carried it. I ended up using a standard electric hand held Makita 3x18
belt sander which I already had:
http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=9910 (have lots of belts,
they go quick, I found the more expensive blue belts last much much longer
than the standard brown ones and would recommend them)
That worked great. To get clean corners I used the die grinder sanding drum
kit from Avery:
http://www.averytools.com/pc-924-80-3m-rubber-expanding-sanding-drums-and-ba
nds-kit.aspx
For the actual cutting I used this saw from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91753
It worked great aside from running through blades quickly. I ran out but
was able to find a blade pack at a local home depot that worked and was able
to soldier on to completion:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10
051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100098704
That combination of tools worked perfectly for me. I'm glad I didn't spend
the $250 on that mini-Makita.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715 / N690CT
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rv10(at)sinkrate.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:08 am Post subject: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin top |
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Patrick thanks for the write up. Which body saw blades did you find worked
best fine or coarse tooth?
-Ben Westfall
#40579 / N109LB
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poneill(at)irealms.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:19 pm Post subject: Peel ply left on the cabin top NOT - fitting the cabin top |
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Hi Ben,
Sorry for the belated response. I've been trying to dig up the card the
blades were packaged in so I knew the 'toothings' of the blades I used. The
markings on the blade have worn off so I wasn't sure. But I finally found
it.
At Dave's class I believe they used 24T. I used the 24T with the tapered
tip for any rounded cuts like along the windshield flange. It cut well, but
dulled rather quickly. I could only use it for maybe 2 sections before I
had to swap. I used the 32T non-tapered tip blade for the straight runs
like the bottom flange underneath the rear windows. That blade seemed to
cut better than the 24T and also seemed to last longer. Not sure if that
was due to technique or the section I was cutting, but that's what I recall.
I wanted to give the 18T a little try, but ran out of cabin to cut before I
got around to it.
Best Regards,
Patrick
#40715 / N690CT
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