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fklein(at)orcasonline.com
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 Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 9:06 pm Post subject: Door Hinges |
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Gentlepeople,
I've attached the door hinges to the doors per the manual and notice
that it calls for the tangs of the door mouldings at the hinges to be
trimmed to create a gap of 5/16" at the hinge recess in the fuselage
top moulding in order to fully raise the doors. I'm noticing what seems
like an odd geometry in that the ends of the tang recess is not
parallel to the hinge pin line.
The result appears to be a 5/16" x approx. 2" slot of varying depth in
our otherwise slick and clean fuselage top.
Going by the old saw of "think 3 times, measure twice, cut once",
before I cut, I'm wondering if some clever fellow has figured out a
way to avoid this slot, or is this something which everyone lives with?
Or have I misinterpreted the plans?
Has anyone deepened the tang recesses in order to for the tangs to
remain full length (with no slot) while providing clearance for the
tang when the door is fully open?
Or have I, by even considering such a minute detail, once again,
slipped off that precipice separating conscientious building and
obsession?
All comments gratefully appreciated, though I will not be able to
acknowledge any until Friday!
Thanks,
Fred
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mooredca(at)tiscali.co.uk
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| Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:28 pm Post subject: Door Hinges |
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Fred,
Yes, some folk have deepened the recesses for the door hinge tangs. I cannot comment on the impact of doing that on the overall integrity of the structure, but it can make installing a ceiling panel more complicated, i.e. the deepened recesses may prevent a flat ceiling panel sitting flush on the door rebates.
Cliff Shaw came up with a practical solution. Shorten the door tangs just enough for the doors to open fully. Then lay-up 2-3 layers of BID in the top of the recesses, flush with the roof line. (Make temporary blue foam inserts so that you can form flox corners under the BID). Adjust the width of BID in-fill to get a neat gap between the end of the tangs and the edge of the BID in-fills, say 2-3 mm (7/64th inch).
There are photographs on the late Mr Shaw's album in the EuropaOwners website. If you struggle to find them, I'll dig them out for you.
Regards,
Dave
Dave Moore
Monowheel 550
Aberdeen UK.
[quote][b]
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josok-e(at)ukolo.fi
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| Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2008 11:55 pm Post subject: Door Hinges |
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Hi Fred,
After seemingly endless shortening and deepening i finally cut the recesses. Put the doors in open position, taped some carton and foam around the tangs and stuck glass and epoxy over that. You can't tell the difference, but it fits. Sounds drastic, but in the end was easier then the endless trial and error method. There are some pictures of that operation in http://www.europaowners.org/kit600
Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org
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Rob(at)Neils.US
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| Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 6:38 am Post subject: Door Hinges |
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I've got 178 trouble-free hours on my Europa tri-gear motorglider. I constructed a unique "egg" solution to the bowing of the canopies. No extra latch or moving parts are needed.
Europa “egg” door latch.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
I’ve installed a wooden egg to prevent the cabin doors from bulging in flight. A wooden egg is trimmed and afixed to each door so that as the door closes the pointy end of the egg inserts into a circular hole in the fuselage. The shape of the egg draws the door to an exact fit with the fuselage and holds it there securely.
Here’s how.
Buy a wooden egg at your wife’s favorite craft store and while you’re there get some modeling clay too if you don’t have some alread. It takes a chunk about the size of your fingers tightly squeezed. A glue gun might be the third purchase. They’re inexpensive and really helpful in all kinds of tasks around the shop. Hot glue sets much faster than 5-minute epoxy so it’s really great for holding things in place.
Drill a hole into the fuselage at the center, half way between the shoot bolts that hold the door closed and centered on the fuselage lip. The width of the hole is determined by how far you want the egg to drop into the hole. I used ~ 1”circumnference so the hole squeezes the egg about a third of the way up it.
To determine what to cut away from the egg to shape it into a plunger put the egg pointy side down into the hole you’ve cut. Warm up some modeling clay and squeeze it around the implanted egg. Pull, twist and cajole the egg out of the clay. Close the door tightly on the eggless clay. This presses the clay and defines the space you have between the fuselage and the door. When you open the door the egg’s hole has been squished back into where the egg used to be, partially filling the hole. Being an artist, razor out the hole in the clay so you can place the egg’s pointy end back into the clay. Push the egg back into the clay. With a marking pen draw a line around the outer half to three quarters of the egg where the clay contacts it. Take the egg out again and close the door. Look down through the window and note on the clay where the egg should not be trimmed so that it will be flush with the inside of the door for added adhesion contact. Open the door, push an indent into the clay where the egg should not be trimmed. Put the egg into the clay, mark the egg’s forward and rear side where you made the indentation into the clay. Take the egg out and freehand a verticle arch on the egg giving you a cut line.
I used a belt sander to trim the egg to gross fit. Just hold it against the front of the belt sander as the sander is held upside down in a vise. The cylindrical front of a belt sander grinds away most of the wooden egg you don’t want. To fine-trim the egg hot glue it into the hole in the fuselage. Use a dremel a wood file and some disclosing paper to shape the egg exactly to the contour of the door. Close the door gently on the egg while you hold the disclosing paper in the gap between the egg and the door. Pull the disclosing paper slowly out thereby leaving a mark on the gg where you need to grind it back. Grind away where the disclosing paper shows the egg contour is high. When you have the egg contoured enough to completely close the door feel the bottom of the door to be sure it is flush with the fuselage. If it’s not, then use a couple of studs, wooden studs - not masculine buffons, and some carpenter’s wooden door wedges to squeeze the fuselage-door planes to proper fit.
If your egg is still hotglued to the fuselage twist it out leaving the remaining hotglue on the surface of the egg so it can be reinserted into the fuselage correctly. When you’re satisfied with how everything goes together, mix up the smallest accurate batch of Epibond 420 to afix the eggs to the doors. It doesn’t take much at all. Add a little cotton fiber to make some stiff flox. Paint some Epibond onto the carved out egg and onto the area on the door where the egg will be afixed. Smear some vasolene wherever the Epibond could foul up this whole project! Put the egg into the fuselage hole, smear on some flox and close the door. Leave it to dry completely.
Open the door. Use some more Epibond and Bid to secure the egg onto the door. I didn’t glass up the fuselage hole to make an egg-holding cup. I don’t think it’s necessary and besides it’d add weight.
The egg solution weighs ounces, has no moving parts and works like a charm. Who could ask for anything more?
[quote][b]
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fklein(at)orcasonline.com
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| Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:19 am Post subject: Door Hinges |
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Lance, Rob, Kingsley, Jos, and Dave,
Thanks for your input and comments...they encourage my sense that a
minor deviation from the build manual is worth my time and attention.
Fred, happily building A194
--
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dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
| | - The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List |
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jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Guest
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| Posted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:19 pm Post subject: Door Hinges |
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Rob-
Would it be possible for you to attach a couple of photos of the finished project? I think I follow what you are saying but "a picture is......"
Thanks -
Jim Puglise, A-283
[quote]-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Rob Neils" <Rob(at)Neils.US>
I've got 178 trouble-free hours on my Europa tri-gear motorglider. I constructed a unique "egg" solution to the bowing of the canopies. No extra latch or moving parts are needed.
Europa “egg” door latch.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
I’ve installed a wooden egg to prevent the cabin doors from bulging in flight. A wooden egg is trimmed and afixed to each door so that as the door closes the pointy end of the egg inserts into a circular hole in the fuselage. The shape of the egg draws the door to an exact fit with the fuselage and holds it there securely.
Here’s how.
Buy a wooden egg at your wife’s favorite craft store and while you’re there get some modeling clay too if you don’t have some alread. It takes a chunk about the size of your fingers tightly squeezed. A glue gun might be the third purchase. They’re inexpensive and really helpful in all kinds of tasks around the shop. Hot glue sets much faster than 5-minute epoxy so it’s really great for holding things in place.
Drill a hole into the fuselage at the center, half way between the shoot bolts that hold the door closed and centered on the fuselage lip. The width of the hole is determined by how far you want the egg to drop into the hole. I used ~ 1”circumnference so the hole squeezes the egg about a third of the way up it.
To determine what to cut away from the egg to shape it into a plunger put the egg pointy side down into the hole you’ve cut. Warm up some modeling clay and squeeze it around the implanted egg. Pull, twist and cajole the egg out of the clay. Close the door tightly on the eggless clay. This presses the clay and defines the space you have between the fuselage and the door. When you open the door the egg’s hole has been squished back into where the egg used to be, partially filling the hole. Being an artist, razor out the hole in the clay so you can place the egg’s pointy end back into the clay.< SPAN s tyle="mso-spacerun: yes"> Push the egg back into the clay. With a marking pen draw a line around the outer half to three quarters of the egg where the clay contacts it. Take the egg out again and close the door. Look down through the window and note on the clay where the egg should not be trimmed so that it will be flush with the inside of the door for added adhesion contact. Open the door, push an indent into the clay where the egg should not be trimmed. Put the egg into the clay, mark the egg’s forward and rear side where you made the indentation into the clay. Take the egg out and freehand a verticle arch on the egg giving you a cut line.
I used a belt sander to trim the egg to gross fit. Just hold it against the front of the belt sander as the sander is held upside down in a vise. The cylindrical front of a belt sander grinds away most of the wooden egg you don’t want. To fine-trim the egg hot glue it into the hole in the fuselage. Use a dremel a wood file and some disclosing paper to shape the egg exactly to the contour of the door. Close the door gently on the egg while you hold the disclosing paper in the gap between the egg and the door. Pull the disclosing paper slowly out thereby leaving a mark on the gg where you need to gri nd it back. Grind away where the disclosing paper shows the egg contour is high. When you have the egg contoured enough to completely close the door feel the bottom of the door to be sure it is flush with the fuselage. If it’s not, then use a couple of studs, wooden studs - not masculine buffons, and some carpenter’s wooden door wedges to squeeze the fuselage-door planes to proper fit.
If your egg is still hotglued to the fuselage twist it out leaving the remaining hotglue on the surface of the egg so it can be reinserted into the fuselage correctly. When you’re satisfied with how everything goes together, mix up the smallest accurate batch of Epibond 420 to afix the eggs to the doors. It doesn’t take much at all. Add a little cotton fiber to make some stiff flox. Paint some Epibond onto the carved out egg and onto the area on the door where the egg will be afixed. Smear some vasolene wherever the Epibond could foul up this whole project! Put the egg into the fuselage hole, smear on some flox and close the door. Leave it to dry completely.
Open the door. Use some more Epibond and Bid to secure the egg onto the door. I didn’t glass up the fuselage hole to make an egg-holding cup. I don’t think it’s necessary and besides it’d add weight.
The egg solution weighs ounces, has no moving parts and works like a charm. Who could ask for anything more?
[b]
| | - The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List |
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