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DuaneFamly(at)aol.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 8:51 am Post subject: Spacer for Wing Top |
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Good day All,
I have a quick question.......would those people that have already bonded their top wing skins give their opinion as to the build manual using stir sticks as a spacer when bonding on the top skin? Is their thickness the right amount? If I remember correctly, my stir sticks measure about .070" thick.
Thanks in advance.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.
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rob(at)hyperion-ef.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 10:49 am Post subject: Spacer for Wing Top |
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My tongue depressors are the same thickness as yours and did the job exactly as expected.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, CA
Europa XS Tri-Gear
A070
Airframe complete
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 9:47 AM
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Spacer for Wing Top
Good day All,
I have a quick question.......would those people that have already bonded their top wing skins give their opinion as to the build manual using stir sticks as a spacer when bonding on the top skin? Is their thickness the right amount? If I remember correctly, my stir sticks measure about .070" thick.
Thanks in advance.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.
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DuaneFamly(at)aol.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 7:03 pm Post subject: Spacer for Wing Top |
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Thanks Rob,
So off I go.....
Do Not Archive
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.
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jimpuglise(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 7:59 am Post subject: Spacer for Wing Top |
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Mike-
I have the identical setup that you do and just did my skins last week. If you look in the build manual, it seems to say that you don't use the pacers under the ailerons. I didn't and I will need to trim more skin than I want to to get the required up aileron. If I was going to do it again, I'd probably use the spacers under both aileron and flaps. To attach the spacers, we cut several pieces of packating tape, used a yellow hilighter to draw the line on the flaps, dropped the flaps, I then held each depressor in place while my wife put the tape across it to hold it in place. When they were all on, we ran a couple of thicknesses of packtaging tape the length of the flap to hold the spacers in place.
Gotchas: Don't forget to drill the hole for pressure relief in the last rib on the outboard end. Also, it does not mention it in the manual but I notice that there is a triangular shaped area on the inboard end of the wing that will also be sealed. It is rather small, so may not be a problem, but I'd probably want to put a hole in that rib too for pressure relief. Make sure the MW-4 rod ends are installed on the aileron bellcrank before closing and have at least two other people confirm that you have not left any tools in the wing before closing. You may also want to mix the Araldite a little thicker than usual so it will "stick to your ribs" (bad pun). Last, don't forget to scuff sand both surfaces well. We just used bricks for weights and it all went fine.
Let us know how it goes.
Jim Puglise A-283
[quote]-------------- Original message --------------
From: DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Good day All,
I have a quick question.......would those people that have already bonded their top wing skins give their opinion as to the build manual using stir sticks as a spacer when bonding on the top skin? Is their thickness the right amount? If I remember correctly, my stir sticks measure about .070" thick.
Thanks in advance.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.
[b]
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keithhickling(at)clear.ne Guest
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:37 pm Post subject: Spacer for Wing Top |
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Mike,
Neville Eyre recommends using strips floor linoleum or vinyl under the flaps and ailerons - I found that easier than the mixing sticks to manipulate. And having done it relatively recently, I agree that you do need the spacer under the ailerons too or you won't get enough clearance.
Keith Hickling,
New Zealand.
[quote] ---
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DuaneFamly(at)aol.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:20 am Post subject: Spacer for Wing Top |
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Thanks Jim,
I did drill those holes for pressure relief. I also added some extra plywood/fiberglass support around the triangle area at the wing root due to concerns of the skin flexing while people are entering or exiting the plane. I have quadruple checked for no tools or spare nuts & bolts and have cleaned, scuffed, and cleaned again the contact areas. Will epoxy today. Am using the 10' long piece of square tubing, clamps, and a bunch of my dive weights to insure good contact.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
In a message dated 4/9/2008 9:00:40 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net writes:
Quote: | Mike-
I have the identical setup that you do and just did my skins last week. If you look in the build manual, it seems to say that you don't use the pacers under the ailerons. I didn't and I will need to trim more skin than I want to to get the required up aileron. If I was going to do it again, I'd probably use the spacers under both aileron and flaps. To attach the spacers, we cut several pieces of packating tape, used a yellow hilighter to draw the line on the flaps, dropped the flaps, I then held each depressor in place while my wife put the tape across it to hold it in place. When they were all on, we ran a couple of thicknesses of packtaging tape the length of the flap to hold the spacers in place.
Gotchas: Don't forget to drill the hole for pressure relief in the last rib on the outboard end. Also, it does not mention it in the manual but I notice that there is a triangular shaped area on the inboard end of the wing that will also be sealed. It is rather small, so may not be a problem, but I'd probably want to put a hole in that rib too for pressure relief. Make sure the MW-4 rod ends are installed on the aileron bellcrank before closing and have at least two other people confirm that you have not left any tools in the wing before closing. You may also want to mix the Araldite a little thicker than usual so it will "stick to your ribs" (bad pun). Last, don't forget to scuff sand both surfaces well. We just used bricks for weights and it all went fine.
Let us know how it goes.
Jim Puglise A-283
Quote: | -------------- Original message --------------
From: DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Good day All,
I have a quick question.......would those people that have already bonded their top wing skins give their opinion as to the build manual using stir sticks as a spacer when bonding on the top skin? Is their thickness the right amount? If I remember correctly, my stir sticks measure about .070" thick.
Thanks in advance.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.
f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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[quote][b]
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jimpuglise(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 10:44 am Post subject: Spacer for Wing Top |
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Let me know how it comes out Mike. I have quick-build flaps and after I got the skin on, noticed that one was a little long. I checked it and it was about 3/8 longer than it should have been so my day has been spent shortening it. I filled the outside ends of the flaps and ailerons.
Are you doing a "pre" close before the final bonding? Bob Berube suggested that I do so and I'm glad I did.
Jim
[quote]-------------- Original message --------------
From: DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Thanks Jim,
I did drill those holes for pressure relief. I also added some extra plywood/fiberglass support around the triangle area at the wing root due to concerns of the skin flexing while people are entering or exiting the plane. I have quadruple checked for no tools or spare nuts & bolts and have cleaned, scuffed, and cleaned again the contact areas. Will epoxy today. Am using the 10' long piece of square tubing, clamps, and a bunch of my dive weights to insure good contact.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
In a message dated 4/9/2008 9:00:40 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net writes:
Quote: | Mike-
I have the identical setup that you do and just did my skins last week. If you look in the build manual, it seems to say that you don't use the pacers under the ailerons. I didn't and I will need to trim more skin than I want to to get the required up aileron. If I was going to do it again, I'd probably use the spacers under both aileron and flaps. To attach the spacers, we cut several pieces of packating tape, used a yellow hilighter to draw the line on the flaps, dropped the flaps, I then held each depressor in place while my wife put the tape across it to hold it in place. When they were all on, we ran a couple of thicknesses of packtaging tape the length of the flap to hold the spacers in place.
Gotchas: Don't forget to drill the hole for pressure relief in the last rib on the outboard end. Also, it does not mention it in the manual but I notice that there is a triangular shaped area on the inboard end of the wing that will also be sealed. It is rather small, so may not be a problem, but I'd probably want to put a hole in that rib too for pressure relief. Make sure the MW-4 rod ends are installed on the aileron bellcrank before closing and have at least two other people confirm that you have not left any tools in the wing before closing. You may also want to mix the Araldite a little thicker than usual so it will "stick to your ribs" (bad pun). Last, don't forget to scuff sand both surfaces well. We just used bricks for weights and it all went fine.
Let us know how it goes.
Jim Puglise A-283
Quote: | -------------- Original message --------------
From: DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Good day All,
I have a quick question.......would those people that have already bonded their top wing skins give their opinion as to the build manual using stir sticks as a spacer when bonding on the top skin? Is their thickness the right amount? If I remember correctly, my stir sticks measure about .070" thick.
Thanks in advance.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.
f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
|
Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.
[b]
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DuaneFamly(at)aol.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:07 am Post subject: Spacer for Wing Top |
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Pre-close? Other than setting the top skin on and shaping for a good fit, I'm not sure what you are speaking of.
Mike Duane
In a message dated 4/10/2008 11:45:20 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net writes:
Quote: | Let me know how it comes out Mike. I have quick-build flaps and after I got the skin on, noticed that one was a little long. I checked it and it was about 3/8 longer than it should have been so my day has been spent shortening it. I filled the outside ends of the flaps and ailerons.
Are you doing a "pre" close before the final bonding? Bob Berube suggested that I do so and I'm glad I did.
Jim
Quote: | -------------- Original message --------------
From: DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Thanks Jim,
I did drill those holes for pressure relief. I also added some extra plywood/fiberglass support around the triangle area at the wing root due to concerns of the skin flexing while people are entering or exiting the plane. I have quadruple checked for no tools or spare nuts & bolts and have cleaned, scuffed, and cleaned again the contact areas. Will epoxy today. Am using the 10' long piece of square tubing, clamps, and a bunch of my dive weights to insure good contact.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
In a message dated 4/9/2008 9:00:40 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net writes:
Quote: | Mike-
I have the identical setup that you do and just did my skins last week. If you look in the build manual, it seems to say that you don't use the pacers under the ailerons. I didn't and I will need to trim more skin than I want to to get the required up aileron. If I was going to do it again, I'd probably use the spacers under both aileron and flaps. To attach the spacers, we cut several pieces of packating tape, used a yellow hilighter to draw the line on the flaps, dropped the flaps, I then held each depressor in place while my wife put the tape across it to hold it in place. When they were all on, we ran a couple of thicknesses of packtaging tape the length of the flap to hold the spacers in place.
Gotchas: Don't forget to drill the hole for pressure relief in the last rib on the outboard end. Also, it does not mention it in the manual but I notice that there is a triangular shaped area on the inboard end of the wing that will also be sealed. It is rather small, so may not be a problem, but I'd probably want to put a hole in that rib too for pressure relief. Make sure the MW-4 rod ends are installed on the aileron bellcrank before closing and have at least two other people confirm that you have not left any tools in the wing before closing. You may also want to mix the Araldite a little thicker than usual so it will "stick to your ribs" (bad pun). Last, don't forget to scuff sand both surfaces well. We just used bricks for weights and it all went fine.
Let us know how it goes.
Jim Puglise A-283
Quote: | -------------- Original message --------------
From: DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Good day All,
I have a quick question.......would those people that have already bonded their top wing skins give their opinion as to the build manual using stir sticks as a spacer when bonding on the top skin? Is their thickness the right amount? If I remember correctly, my stir sticks measure about .070" thick.
Thanks in advance.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.
f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
|
Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.
f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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[quote][b]
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jimpuglise(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:53 am Post subject: Spacer for Wing Top |
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Mike-
You mix the redux a little on the thick side using flox, then coat the ribs only. You then put strips of visqueen over them and install and weight the skin. In 24 hours you remove the weights, the skins, the plastic, scuff sand the redux, fill the voids, apply another tyhin coat of redux and re-apply the skins and weights. The reason for this is that some people have opened their wings for one reason or another and found there are voids between the ribs and skins. In my particular case, when we removed the skin after the pre-close, we found very few voids, so I would have been OK without it. I understand that the skins produced relatively recently fit much better than some of the earlier ones, so it may or may not be a step worth doing for you. My kit is A-283 and I don't know at what point they began doing a better job of fitting.
Jim
[quote]-------------- Original message --------------
From: DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Pre-close? Other than setting the top skin on and shaping for a good fit, I'm not sure what you are speaking of.
Mike Duane
In a message dated 4/10/2008 11:45:20 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net writes:
Quote: | Let me know how it comes out Mike. I have quick-build flaps and after I got the skin on, noticed that one was a little long. I checked it and it was about 3/8 longer than it should have been so my day has been spent shortening it. I filled the outside ends of the flaps and ailerons.
Are you doing a "pre" close before the final bonding? Bob Berube suggested that I do so and I'm glad I did.
Jim
Quote: | -------------- Original message --------------
From: DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Thanks Jim,
I did drill those holes for pressure relief. I also added some extra plywood/fiberglass support around the triangle area at the wing root due to concerns of the skin flexing while people are entering or exiting the plane. I have quadruple checked for no tools or spare nuts & bolts and have cleaned, scuffed, and cleaned again the contact areas. Will epoxy today. Am using the 10' long piece of square tubing, clamps, and a bunch of my dive weights to insure good contact.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
In a message dated 4/9/2008 9:00:40 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jimpuglise(at)comcast.net writes:
Quote: | Mike-
I have the identical setup that you do and just did my skins last week. If you look in the build manual, it seems to say that you don't use the pacers under the ailerons. I didn't and I will need to trim more skin than I want to to get the required up aileron. If I was going to do it again, I'd probably use the spacers under both aileron and flaps. To attach the spacers, we cut several pieces of packating tape, used a yellow hilighter to draw the line on the flaps, dropped the flaps, I then held each depressor in place while my wife put the tape across it to hold it in place. When they were all on, we ran a couple of thicknesses of packtaging tape the length of the flap to hold the spacers in place.
Gotchas: Don't forget to drill the hole for pressure relief in the last rib on the outboard end. Also, it does not mention it in the manual but I notice that there is a triangular shaped area on the inboard end of the wing that will also be sealed. It is rather small, so may not be a problem, but I'd probably want to put a hole in that rib too for pressure relief. Make sure the MW-4 rod ends are installed on the aileron bellcrank before closing and have at least two other people confirm that you have not left any tools in the wing before closing. You may also want to mix the Araldite a little thicker than usual so it will "stick to your ribs" (bad pun). Last, don't forget to scuff sand both surfaces well. We just used bricks for weights and it all went fine.
Let us know how it goes.
Jim Puglise A-283
Quote: | -------------- Original message --------------
From: DuaneFamly(at)aol.com
Good day All,
I have a quick question.......would those people that have already bonded their top wing skins give their opinion as to the build manual using stir sticks as a spacer when bonding on the top skin? Is their thickness the right amount? If I remember correctly, my stir sticks measure about .070" thick.
Thanks in advance.
Mike Duane A207A
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich R64Z N
Ground Adjustable Prop
Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.
f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
|
Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.
f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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rowil(at)clara.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:01 pm Post subject: Spacer for Wing Top |
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At 2008-04-10 19:50 +0000 jimpuglise(at)comcast.net wrote:
Quote: | You mix the redux a little on the thick side using flox, then coat
the ribs only. You then put strips of visqueen over them and
install and weight the skin
|
Folks - see my journal entry & linked pictures for 16 November 2007
for a graphic illustration of this on my port wing - go to
<http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/200711.html>
I've just done the starboard wing in the past week and it displayed a
different set of rib height variations, so pre-bonding was definitely
worthwhile for me.
I endorse Neville's advice about using the strip of vinyl as a spacer
too - anything thinner would have needed excessive trimming to get my
aileron travel up to spec.
Hope this helps.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson LAA #16532 http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/
| 990 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail <rowil(at)clara.net>
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fklein(at)orcasonline.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 4:28 pm Post subject: Spacer for Wing Top |
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On Thursday, Apr 10, 2008, at 14:28 US/Pacific, Rowland Carson wrote:
Quote: | I endorse Neville's advice about using the strip of vinyl as a spacer
too - anything thinner would have needed excessive trimming to get my
aileron travel up to spec.
|
Rowland,
Your journal is quite something...thank you for the reference. By any
chance, could you give us a thickness measurement of the vinyl strips
you're using?
Fred
A194
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
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rowil(at)clara.net Guest
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 12:27 am Post subject: Spacer for Wing Top |
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At 2008-04-10 17:24 -0700 Fred Klein wrote:
Quote: |
On Thursday, Apr 10, 2008, at 14:28 US/Pacific, Rowland Carson wrote:
>I endorse Neville's advice about using the strip of vinyl as a
>spacer too - anything thinner would have needed excessive trimming
>to get my aileron travel up to spec.
Rowland,
Your journal is quite something...thank you for the reference. By
any chance, could you give us a thickness measurement of the vinyl
strips you're using?
|
Fred - thanks for the kind words - I try to make it as useful as I
can to me, and if in the process it helps others, that's a bonus!
The vinyl was 1.36mm (see the entry for 2007-11-25) but I would guess
that anything up to about 1.5mm would be OK. The vinyl does tend to
compress a bit if you get the recommended amount of weight on the
joint.
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson LAA #16532 http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/
| 990 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail <rowil(at)clara.net>
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