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jef.vervoortw(at)telenet.
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 Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 3:56 am Post subject: Sikaflex Canopy Info |
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This is the slider that I know of http://www.skypassion.com/web-content/FUSELAGE/Project.html .
You can find him also via Vans website – Links- RV7 – Paul Paeleman, Belgium.
I myself am preparing also my sliding canopy for this application; the most critical part until now is to have a good ( perfect ?) fit of the plexi around the forward and rear bow.
Jef Vervoort; 91031.
Van: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens Carl Bell
Verzonden: woensdag 16 april 2008 0:17
Aan: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Onderwerp: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Sikaflex Canopy Info
Hi
I am also working on my canopy and would like the use Sika. Has anyone out their done it on an RV 7 or RV 9 slider using the horizontal square side tube that runs from the forward bow the rear bow? If so out did you attach the canopy skirt with out drilling? Any help is really appreciated. I have printed all the articles, instruction and list information, but I mostly find RV 8 instructions. I could really use some help on how to do it on a RV 7 Slider.
Thanks CJ
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of japhillipsga(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 2:14 PM
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: Re: RV8- Sikaflex Canopy Info
Dear Builders, I'm going to use Sika adhesive to attach my canopy. Todd's canopy's has a couple page DIY instructions from Bob & Karen Brown that describes the U295, cleaner and primer process. When I found the Sika products on the web there are various cleaners and primers listed and the only 295 is listed as 295UV not U295. I understand you have to have the correct three products. Who out there knows is 295UV the same as U295 ? and which primer and cleaner is appropriate for the canopy and 295 adhesive? I appreciate any help, thanks, Bill of Georgia
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rvtach
Joined: 28 Jan 2008
Posts: 26
Location: Tucson, AZ
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 5:24 am Post subject: Re: Sikaflex Canopy Info |
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I Sika Flexed my -7A slider which has the square side bows. I documented the process I used in a Picasa photo album: http://picasaweb.google.com/rvtach/GluingMySliderCanopy
Read the long paragraph on the left hand side of the page for an overview and then click on the "slideshow" button to see the photos and descriptions.
Hope this helps.
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Jim McChesney
Tucson, AZ
RV-7A Flying |
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rv9jim(at)juno.com
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 5:34 am Post subject: Sikaflex Canopy Info |
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Hi Jef,
I have a "9-A" and used the Sikaflex system to attach the canopy
to my a/c. The rear canopy has the sikaflex on all attachment areas
except along the horiz square tube for the skirt. The front bow and the
center support that runs from the front bow to the rear bow and the rear
bow are all bonded to the frame. I chose to drill the skirts and use
bolts there. There is one issue that must be considered when using the
sikaflex system. The canopy will be spaced upward from the normal
position. If you have cut the canopy to fit before you take this into
consideration, your aluminum skirts will be to short. Ask me how I know.
I did a fiberglass rear skirt in place of the aluminum one from Van's.
It sure makes a snug leakproof (?) fit. The same issue goes for the
front wind screen. So take that into consideration when trimming the
bottom of each plexiglass part. You can see my project on the sikaflex
canopy at www.websites.expercraft.com/jimn . It took around a month or
so to do the sikaflex attachment. Doing the regular attachment via Van's
directions is much faster.
Jim
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Carl
Joined: 04 May 2007
Posts: 44
Location: Aiken, SC
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 1:54 pm Post subject: Sikaflex Canopy Info |
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Hi Jim,
This looks great; I was contemplating a1/2" aluminum angel where you have
the triangle fillet set back far enough to allow for 1/8" of Sika Flex. Do
you think this is a good idea or overkill? Have you glued on your
windscreen? Are you happy with the way it all worked out? I was really was
surprised with gluing your skirt down in the back, Does it look like it is
strong enough? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm just trying to learn
from your experience and I do worry about part flying off at 200mph. Thanks
for the help. Carl
Carl W Bell
New Venture Consulting
Mobile: 803.640.2760
www.newventureconsulting.com
carlbell(at)gforcecable.com
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Carl Bell
Building N947CB
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rv9jim(at)juno.com
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| Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 6:20 pm Post subject: Sikaflex Canopy Info |
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Carl,
The sika flex is strong stuff. I did bolt the sides of the
canopy to the square rail. Maybe I was a bit chicken. But I used about
3/8" gap for the adhesive. You need space to allow for the expansion of
the plexi in the heat. The gap on the back is much less around 1/4" or
so. The windshield was no problem. Just remember that you need to cut
the bottom of the plexi after you space the canopy upward to allow for
the glue spacing. I had to remake the side skirts because I forgot about
that. THe fiberglass that you put around the bottomof the windshield
keep things in place. Plus you put the fiberglass "ring" around the top
to cover the gap between the rear and front canopy. I think it will be
there for a long.time. Fun priject that added about 6 weeks total to the
job. But then I have only a few bolt holes on the square tube.
Jim
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rvtach
Joined: 28 Jan 2008
Posts: 26
Location: Tucson, AZ
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| Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 5:35 am Post subject: Re: Sikaflex Canopy Info |
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From another "Jim"...
No problemo on the questions. Happy to have a chance to return the favor for all the help I've gotten over the years.
The angle probably wouldn't hurt anything but I don't think it's necessary. The triangle fillet between the plexi and the side bow is plenty strong. When the outer side skirt is riveted to the side bow and glued to the plexi you'll end up with the plexi secured between the Sika Flex fillet and the side skirt. It's not going anywhere. Remember that you don't need the 1/8" glue joint if you have a fillet. Sika USA tech support said that a fillet between 2 pieces at right angles (l_) is as strong as a 1/8" joint. The 1/8" specification is for 2 pieces being bonded face to face (l l).
I have not glued on my windscreen yet. I'll do that as late in the process as I can so that I can leave the area behind the panel open for easier access for wiring etc. I plan to do my windscreen the way Jim Elis documented his on the RV Wiki at http://wiki.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Gluing_Your_Canopy#Jim_Ellis . Gluing the windscreen with a Sika Flex fairing will also make it possible to replace the windscreen in the event of a birdstrike etc. You can just cut the sikaflex with a razor whereas with the fiberglass fairing that Van suggests you'd have a devil of a time taking the damaged windscreen out.
The rear skirt seems plenty secure. The only way I can imagine losing the integrity of these glue joints is with a peeling action; the forward edge starts to lift and the wind gets under the skirt and peels it off. The forward/lower ends of the skirt is riveted to the frame so there is no chance for it to start to peel. I made a bunch test pieces of plexi Sika-Flexed to aluminum with minimal/poor prep to simulate a worst case scenario and I can't get the pieces apart with my hands. I used a very thin glue joint on several, put them in the freezer for several hours then popped them into the oven after some cookies came out to simulate max thermal expansion and the glue is strong, strong, strong. I'm sure that if you used a screwdriver you could get them apart but I think you'll tear up the material before the glue joint lets go. I didn't realize how tough this stuff was until after I had used it.
I am very happy with the way this has turned out so far. I would definitely do it this way next time.
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Jim McChesney
Tucson, AZ
RV-7A Flying |
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