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Stabilizer Skin

 
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BATAR(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 4:42 pm    Post subject: Stabilizer Skin Reply with quote

Help! I finished the stabilizer frame, and placed the skin on it, and found
it too short on the bottom side.

The end ribs, 6T1-1, measure just about 450 mm from the front tip to the
rear on both the top and bottom. The skin measures 450 on the top, and 425 on
the bottom. If I put the skin flush against the rear edge of the bottom of
the frame, it doesn't fit around the front of the rib. If I put the curve of
the skin even with the nose of the rib, it doesn't reach the rear edge of the
frame.

Any guesses what I have done wrong.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Al Massey

Readfield, Maine


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graham(at)601hd.com
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 5:03 pm    Post subject: Stabilizer Skin Reply with quote

Al,
Assuming this is a 601 and that the 601s all have the same stab: From your
descriptions it sounds like you may have the front and rear spars the wrong
way round. The rear spar has a flange facing rearwards on the top and
forwards on the bottom. This is why the top skin is longer.
The drawing on 6-T-2 labeled "Stabilizer Skin Riveting" should explain.

Graham Kirby
601HD



Help! I finished the stabilizer frame, and placed the skin on it, and
found
it too short on the bottom side.


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Larry Portouw



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 17
Location: Sierra Vista/Ft. Huachuca, AZ

PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2006 3:27 am    Post subject: Re: Stabilizer Skin Reply with quote

Al, you may not have done anything wrong. I'm working on a similar problem. Mine came up about 2.5mm short on the top side creating a serious edge distance problem at the spar. All the measurements checked out fine. In examining the end ribs I noted that the flanges in the area of the tip weren't fully 90 degrees. I was able to get skin back 2mm by removing the end ribs and carefully tightening up the flange (gentle tapping with a BP hammer and a large diamater piece of wood dowel as a backing) so that it bent over a full 90 deg. IOW, the rib was about 1mm longer tip to rear on the flange side than it was on the face side. Given that you get some distance back by doing this around the curve for a cm or so either side of the tip, it didn't take much to get the skin back where it needed to be. After reading your post, I'm going to take the frame off the table and see what I have on the back side before I start drilling holes! I also recommend engaging your friendly neighborhood EAA tech councilor. -- it's a technique that has kept me away from disaster or post disaster despair more than once.
BATAR(at)aol.com wrote:
Help! I finished the stabilizer frame, and placed the skin on it, and found
it too short on the bottom side.

<SNIP>

Readfield, Maine


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_________________
Larry Portouw
601XL Kit (H. Stab) (on hold)
PA-22 N8141C<< This project now taking all my time.
Fort Huachuca, AZ
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cmaggart(at)sprintmail.co
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 8:48 am    Post subject: Stabilizer Skin Reply with quote

I had a similar problem with a skin that appeared too short to wrap around. After talking to Nick, he told me to wrap the skins BEFORE adding the tip ribs. It worked just fine. The newer instructions also say to do this on page 7 of 12 for dwg.6T2A, rev. 2/28/05.

Chuck Maggart
601XL nearly finished


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Larry Portouw



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 17
Location: Sierra Vista/Ft. Huachuca, AZ

PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 3:28 am    Post subject: Re: Stabilizer Skin Reply with quote

Chuck, thanks. I am working off of rev 2.0, older than the ones you reference. I'll hit the web site and get the newer one. Probably too late to change what I've done now-- end ribs are drilled, but not riveted. Could always replace them, but I think I have it solved with this method.

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_________________
Larry Portouw
601XL Kit (H. Stab) (on hold)
PA-22 N8141C<< This project now taking all my time.
Fort Huachuca, AZ
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