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bertrv6(at)highstream.net
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 Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 6:40 am Post subject: Fuel Tank SB Experience |
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Quoting Steve Glasgow <willfly(at)carolina.rr.com>:
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My experience doing the Fuel Tank SB.
The fuel tank SD is a bitch, but doable without removing the tank. All
total, 10-12 man hours to do the left tank. Experience will help when I do
the right tank. Start by getting all the parts you need from Van's. Cork
gaskets for the big hole, rubber gaskets for the fuel sender, 2 small jars
or peo-seal (really nice and just enough) and whatever screws you want to
use. Ground the plane.
I started by siphoning as much 100LL out as I could, then I un-screwed the
drain valve and drained the remainder into a fuel can. Next, I vented the
tank by holding a vacuum set to blow in the fuel cap hole for about 5
minutes.
After the tank was vented, I started to remove the old pro-seal before I
even tried to open the tank this kept the trash out as much as possible. I
had used way to much pro-seal the first time, so I had a pain removing it.
I
found a 1/2 and 1/4 wood chisel worked the best. Also a razor blade helped
with the heavy stuff. You will find it is easier to work from under the
plane. After getting as much off as possible I started with the drimel with
a wire brush and cleaned all the rest off I could. Next,I took the wire
to the fuel sending unit off and took out the 5 screws that hold the fuel
sender and removed it with no problem. Again I vented the tank.
Next, you want to remove the fuel line and tape it. It needs to be removed
at the fuel valve and the tank and pushed into the plane so as to give you
more room to work in the crack.
Next I taped the fuel sender hole and started on the access cover screws. I
should have spent more time with the drimel and taken a pick to the heads of
the screws because I stripped two screws that were loaded with pro-seal. Oh
well live and learn.
The next day Tonto came to the rescue (Dale Ensing) and we were able to
remove the stripped screws with his needle nose vice grip pliers. Thanks
Dale! On re-installation we decided to use the original screws (8-32)
because the heads were bigger than the hex head screws I had bought. The
feeling was if the smaller heads were stripped we might not be able to
remove them with needle nose vice grip pliers.
After the screws were out we managed to release the plate with a heavy duty
sharpened putty knife and hammer. Carefully moving around the plate a
little at a time. Dale cleaned the hole in the wing with MKE while I used
the wire brush on the electric motor to clean the covers. Yes MEK softens
the goo and will clean it off. Lots of rubbing required but it works.
The B nut was tight and before we took it off we marked where we wanted to
drill. We drilled the hole in the B nut with Dale's little jig and shafted
it with 0.32 wire and decided to cant the pick up tube about 1 1/2 inches
outboard to make for an easier instillation of the cover plate.
Don't forget to clean any trash out of the tank. We used the vacuum with a
small hose fitted to the vacuum hose and a mirror.
Now it became a two man job. We buttered the cover plate with pro-seal laid
the gasket in the goo and buttered it again, we added 3 screws to hold the
gasket in place while we both installed it together. One man above the wing
carefully hands the unit to the guy below the wing through the crack.
Really a two man job here to get it in
place without dislodging all the goo and making a bigger mess. We actually
practiced the hand off several times before we put the goo on.
Don't forget to liberally tape the edge of the wing on the top and the
bottom to prevent getting goo on your paint. We dipped each screw into the
goo and screwed the cover plate down, installed the fuel pick up with the
rubber gasket, no goo on the gasket this time, just the screws.
Re-install the fuel line, let it cure for at least 4 days, add fuel and say
a prayer that it doesn't leak!!!!!!!
I will do the right tank after Sun and Fun.
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
RV-8 N123SG, 290 Hours
Cappy's Toy
Steve:
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I have used Tite-Seal, instead of the Proseal...it has worked well..
Bert
Rv6a
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lhelming(at)sigecom.net
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| Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 10:30 am Post subject: Fuel Tank SB Experience |
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dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net
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| Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 12:14 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank SB Experience |
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Let this be a lesson to new builders, don't let this happen to you! Make
your tanks easily removable by painting them separately, and NOT
painting the screws. This could have been a half day job to do both tanks.
Dave -6 SoCal
EAA Technical Counselor
Steve Glasgow wrote:
| Quote: |
My experience doing the Fuel Tank SB.
The fuel tank SD is a bitch, but doable without removing the tank. All
total, 10-12 man hours to do the left tank...
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jhstarn(at)verizon.net
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| Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 1:04 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank SB Experience |
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Just a short update on our plans for the Tank SB. We ordered the parts &
"stuff" from Van's to do the job AND the #8 paint cutter from The Yard Store
just in case we do take off the tanks. It's a devise we have not used before
but it reportedly cuts the paint around the screw head so as to not tear the
paint away as the head turns while breaking the screw loose. We have a few
paint issues with the underside of the wings so we may just take them off &
do everything at once, one time. Plates are going back together with hex
head #8 x 32's and washers to increase the bite area. N561FS HRII KABONG
Do Not Archive.
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rhdudley(at)att.net
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| Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 2:59 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank SB Experience |
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Larry,
The Titeseal consistency does not seem to change markedly with time. I
don't believe that there is any sort of "cure". It is a viscous
"honey-like" consistency. When removing the plates after four years, the
gaskets easily separated from the tank and plate surfaces. I refilled
both tanks within an hour of re-mounting the inspection plates. I
checked the area of the seal as I filled the tanks and two days after
with no sign of leakage. After two days without leaks, I re mounted the
wing fairings.
I used new cork gaskets. The old gaskets that I removed were permeated
with the Titeseal. I believe that the gaskets serve a purpose to hold
the Titeseal, allow it to extrude around the screws and that the
saturated cork provides a seal conforming with the two mating surfaces
and is a mechanically strong barrier to leakage.
I, too, would recommend to new builders to paint the tanks separate from
the wings, or at least avoid painting the screws. That avoids the
anxiety of unscrewing painted screws. I was able to remove the tanks,
clean the Titeseal residue, conduct the SB on the pickup tube nut,
replace the inspection plate, replace the tank with all its screws in
about 3-4 hours per tank. A second pair of hands is helpful to navigate
the tank clear of the tubing and avoid scratching the wing.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
[quote]
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