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drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin

 
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sarg314(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 9:22 pm    Post subject: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin Reply with quote

I got my nose gear back from Langair last week and remounted it and just set the nose wheel breakout force tonight. I then tried to drill the 1/8" holes for the large cotter pin that secures the big castle nut that holds the fork on.  After an hour I am perhaps 1/3 of the way thru the wall of the nose gear.  I'm using new drill bits and "tap magic" cutting fluid.  I put a piece of tape on the chuck of the hand drill so I could see how fast it is turning.  I think it is no more than 500 RPM.  I'm using a #30 and a #40 (Langair says to make a dimple with the #30 then drill a pilot hole with the #40).  The #40 seems to make no progress at all. The #30 at least produces some filings, but it's REALLY slow going.

Is there a better type of drill bit  to use? I'm using drill bits I bought  from Avery which work fine on aluminum and soft steel.  Or perhaps a different type of cutting fluid? 
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
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Bruce(at)glasair.org
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 10:17 pm    Post subject: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin Reply with quote

All work and a dull drill make Jack a bored buy.

Have you sharpened your bits?

Bruce
www.Glasair.org

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Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 11:19 pm    Post subject: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin Reply with quote

Try a TiN (Titanium Nitride) treated drill bit or carbide and go at slow speed with significant force.

-N1GV (RV-6A Flying 922TTAE Silicon Valley, CA)


In a message dated 5/22/2009 10:23:33 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, sarg314(at)gmail.com writes:
Quote:
Is there a better type of drill bit to use? I'm using drill bits I bought  from Avery which work fine on aluminum and soft steel. Or perhaps a different type of cutting fluid?


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n801bh(at)netzero.com
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 1:32 am    Post subject: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin Reply with quote

I believe the gear is made from 4130 ChMo steel. This material is very prone to "work harden", If you did get it hot while forcing the starting drill bit through the material it has toughened up and most drill bits will not work any more. The results are exactly what you are describing. My suggestion is to aquire a cobalt or carbide bit, use slow rotation and heavy force to cut through the hardened surface. Tap Magic cutting fluid is high quality stuff so that is ot yout problem.. Good luck and go slow.
do not archive

Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com

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dougsnash



Joined: 14 Apr 2008
Posts: 281

PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 4:52 am    Post subject: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin Reply with quote

Tom, don't take this the wrong way (pun intended), is it possible that you have your drill running in reverse? We've all done it and the bits will still cut just not very well (exactly as you describe).

I'm sorry if this offends anyone but I thought I'd through it out there as one more thing to check.

Doug MacDonald
CH-701 scratch builder
RV-4 dreamer
NW Ontario, Canada

Do not archive

  I'm using a #30 and a #40 (Langair says
Quote:
to make a dimple with the #30 then drill a pilot hole with
the #40).  The #40 seems to make no progress at all. The
#30 at least produces some filings, but it's REALLY slow
going.

__________________________________________________________________
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truflite(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 7:45 am    Post subject: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin Reply with quote

I do metal machining on the side and was asked by a fellow RV builder to drill the hole through the top of the gear leg. I used a high speed steel drill bit, new, with lots of lubrication and got nowhere fast. I then bought a carbide tipped bit 1/64" smaller than required. This worked fine again with lots of lube, turning slow, slow, slow. Heat is the enemy here as the metal will work harden from the drilling heat. I then used a reamer to clean up the hole to the proper size. The reamer was wasted after the use. The result was a perfect fit.

I would use a carbide tipped bit as it will "give" a little going through the hard metal (chatter). A full carbide bit could be used, but more care must be taken especially with the smaller size bits.

Dave
--- On Sat, 5/23/09, thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> wrote:

Quote:
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Subject: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, May 23, 2009, 1:19 AM
I got my nose gear back from Langair
last week and remounted it and just set the nose wheel
breakout force tonight. I then tried to drill the 1/8"
holes for the large cotter pin that secures the big castle
nut that holds the fork on.  After an hour I am perhaps 1/3
of the way thru the wall of the nose gear.  I'm using
new drill bits and "tap magic" cutting fluid.  I
put a piece of tape on the chuck of the hand drill so I
could see how fast it is turning.  I think it is no more
than 500 RPM.  I'm using a #30 and a #40 (Langair says
to make a dimple with the #30 then drill a pilot hole with
the #40).  The #40 seems to make no progress at all. The
#30 at least produces some filings, but it's REALLY slow
going.


Is there a better type of drill bit  to use? I'm using
drill bits I bought  from Avery which work fine on aluminum
and soft steel.  Or perhaps a different type of cutting
fluid? 

--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.









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sarg314(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 2:25 pm    Post subject: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin Reply with quote

I picked up a couple of carbide drills this morning.  They went through easily.  In fact it seems they cut best at about 300 rpm - that's where I got the best turnings, anyway.  So carbide is the way to go on this. 

Thanks for all the responses.  Now if I could just get all these wires hooked up the way they were back when everything worked ...
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly
[quote][b]


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