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jcumins(at)jcis.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 7:50 am Post subject: Elevator outbard end rib |
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Well this old mine is stumped. On the Elevator outboard rib needs to be
dimples for room for the skin dimples. Well the last 4 furthest aft rivits
are not dimpleable. How does one get a dimple set in to the small space, or
did everyone just machine counter sink the holes.
This old brain needs to know.
Thanks
John
40864 Elvator in scuffing and primering mode.
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deej(at)deej.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 8:10 am Post subject: Elevator outbard end rib |
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On 06/15/2009 11:48 AM, John Cumins wrote:
Quote: | Well this old mine is stumped. On the Elevator outboard rib needs to be
dimples for room for the skin dimples. Well the last 4 furthest aft rivits
are not dimpleable. How does one get a dimple set in to the small space, or
did everyone just machine counter sink the holes.
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Would one of these:
<https://www.averytools.com/pc-857-72-pop-rivet-dimplers.aspx>
or one of these:
<https://www.averytools.com/pc-856-72-vise-grip-dimplers.aspx>
work?
-Dj
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ogdenk
Joined: 05 Feb 2007 Posts: 41 Location: Syracuse, NY
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Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 8:39 am Post subject: Elevator outbard end rib |
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John,
I did it by making a dimple 'receiver' out of a piece of mild steel I had laying around (1/4" or so thick). I drilled a hole with a #40 drill, then countersunk it so it to form the female side of the dimple set. I clamped it securely to my bench (hanging over the edge), then slipped the skin over it for dimpling. I left the male side of the dimpler on the rod that came with my C-arm dimpler, and rapped it with my rubber mallet. Worked just fine, now I have the tool for other tight spots that I'm sure I'll see.
Kent Ogden
#40710 Wings on the way
Quote: | >> "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net> 6/15/2009 11:48 AM >>>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Cumins" <jcumins(at)jcis.net>
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Well this old mine is stumped. On the Elevator outboard rib needs to be
dimples for room for the skin dimples. Well the last 4 furthest aft rivits
are not dimpleable. How does one get a dimple set in to the small space, or
did everyone just machine counter sink the holes.
This old brain needs to know.
Thanks
John
40864 Elvator in scuffing and primering mode.
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nlewis(at)wildblue.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 9:53 am Post subject: Elevator outbard end rib |
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Same here, except I didn't make mine - Cleaveland's tool kit came with:
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DIE4263DF.
On Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 9:38 AM, Kent Ogden <OgdenK(at)upstate.edu (OgdenK(at)upstate.edu)> wrote:
[quote] I did it by making a dimple 'receiver' out of a piece of mild steel I had laying around (1/4" or so thick). I drilled a hole with a #40 drill, then countersunk it so it to form the female side of the dimple set. I clamped it securely to my bench (hanging over the edge), then slipped the skin over it for dimpling. I left the male side of the dimpler on the rod that came with my C-arm dimpler, and rapped it with my rubber mallet. Worked just fine, now I have the tool for other tight spots that I'm sure I'll see.
[b]
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pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 10:09 am Post subject: Elevator outbard end rib |
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I used a vise grip dimpler from Avery Tools. As I recall, I had to grind
down the end of it to fit close enough to the rib.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Wings
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