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richard.goode(at)russiana Guest
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Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 1:24 am Post subject: Over- priming |
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In my view ten blades are not enough - I would suggest at least fifteen.
The point of my method is that it prevents the need of getting in and out of the aircraft, which one really does not want to do at the best of times particularly if it is cold/raining.
So if the engine is in reasonable condition; the carburettor primed; 3/5 pumps to the cylinder, the engine should start within a revolution of the prop on every occasion.
The big mistake is to treat the air start as a form of starter-motor.
The engine will either start, which is fine; kick-back, which means it is over-primed; or not fire which means that it is under primed.
IF it does kick-back then switch everything off; and now you do need to get out, and wind the prop through (say) six revolutions, and then start again.
If it is under primed, then give it some more prime.
The essence of it is that everything can be done from inside the cockpit.
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340 120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340 129
www.russianaeros.com
[quote][b]
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dougsappllc(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 9:14 am Post subject: Over- priming |
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All,During a conversation with the folks in China who are in the know with respect to what is done to their engines at overhaul stated that it is the top clys which are always in the poorest condition when they receive the engines for overhaul. They confirmed that this was due to overpriming. All food for thought.
Doug
On Tue, Sep 29, 2009 at 2:17 AM, Richard Goode <richard.goode(at)russianaeros.com (richard.goode(at)russianaeros.com)> wrote:
Quote: |
In my view ten blades are not enough - I would suggest at least fifteen.
The point of my method is that it prevents the need of getting in and out of the aircraft, which one really does not want to do at the best of times particularly if it is cold/raining.
So if the engine is in reasonable condition; the carburettor primed; 3/5 pumps to the cylinder, the engine should start within a revolution of the prop on every occasion.
The big mistake is to treat the air start as a form of starter-motor.
The engine will either start, which is fine; kick-back, which means it is over-primed; or not fire which means that it is under primed.
IF it does kick-back then switch everything off; and now you do need to get out, and wind the prop through (say) six revolutions, and then start again.
If it is under primed, then give it some more prime.
The essence of it is that everything can be done from inside the cockpit.
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340 120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340 129
www.russianaeros.com
Quote: |
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
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Douglas Sapp
Doug Sapp LLC
18B Riverview Road
Omak WA 98841
PH 509-826-4610
Fax 509-826-3644
[quote][b]
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m Guest
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Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 2:19 pm Post subject: Over- priming |
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This may be a ridiculous statement, but it dawns on me that not all of
these engines sit at the same angle when mounted in the aircraft. For
example, the YAK-50 obviously sits canted back, while on the 52 it is
fairly level. Would this result in less fuel going down into the top
cylinder or not? Just wondering.
Mark Bitterlich
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richard.goode(at)russiana Guest
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Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 11:38 pm Post subject: Over- priming |
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I don't think that it would affect priming but it does increase the susceptiblity of the tail-wheel planes to hydraulic-lock,since the oil can pool more easily in the intake tubes.
Richard
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Hereford
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
[quote] ---
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viperdoc(at)mindspring.co Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:11 am Post subject: Over- priming |
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For the 50’s, I jack my tail up about 2 feet with a standard hydraulic floor jack if she is going to sit for a few days. Doing that does increase the oil drainage out of the intake drains . I have found I have less oil draining out of the intakes during pull through doing this.
The next item on the agenda is to install a sump drain line to plug into a “clean container” for drainage when she is going to sit for period of time.
Viperdoc
YAK 50 N78YK
From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Goode
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 2:29 AM
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Over- priming
I don't think that it would affect priming but it does increase the susceptiblity of the tail-wheel planes to hydraulic-lock,since the oil can pool more easily in the intake tubes.
Richard
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Hereford
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
[quote]
----- Original Message -----
From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com (yak-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 11:17 PM
Subject: RE: Over- priming
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>
This may be a ridiculous statement, but it dawns on me that not all of
these engines sit at the same angle when mounted in the aircraft. For
example, the YAK-50 obviously sits canted back, while on the 52 it is
fairly level. Would this result in less fuel going down into the top
cylinder or not? Just wondering.
Mark Bitterlich
--
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jan.mevis(at)informavia.b Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:26 am Post subject: Over- priming |
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Very good idea, I’ll try that too.
Jan
YK50 RA2005K
From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Kemp M.D.
Sent: woensdag 30 september 2009 15:09
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Over- priming
For the 50’s, I jack my tail up about 2 feet with a standard hydraulic floor jack if she is going to sit for a few days. Doing that does increase the oil drainage out of the intake drains . I have found I have less oil draining out of the intakes during pull through doing this.
The next item on the agenda is to install a sump drain line to plug into a “clean container” for drainage when she is going to sit for period of time.
Viperdoc
YAK 50 N78YK
From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Goode
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 2:29 AM
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Over- priming
I don't think that it would affect priming but it does increase the susceptiblity of the tail-wheel planes to hydraulic-lock,since the oil can pool more easily in the intake tubes.
Richard
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Hereford
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
[quote]
----- Original Message -----
From: Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com (yak-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 11:17 PM
Subject: RE: Over- priming
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>
This may be a ridiculous statement, but it dawns on me that not all of
these engines sit at the same angle when mounted in the aircraft. For
example, the YAK-50 obviously sits canted back, while on the 52 it is
fairly level. Would this result in less fuel going down into the top
cylinder or not? Just wondering.
Mark Bitterlich
--
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 11:41 am Post subject: Over- priming |
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Some folks run a line from the sump drain to an electric pump and then
pump the oil directly back to the main tank. Works pretty good. But,
the way they attach this to the sump point scares me a little. It's
FRAGILE. If that were to break, all your engine oil would run right out
of it, and you would never know it was happening in flight.
Mark
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 11:53 am Post subject: Over- priming |
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If you have intake drains, is it not better to let the oil flow out of
the cylinders, into the intakes and then out the drain? Is it better to
try and contain the oil in the cylinder....?? I don't quite get why
keeping the engine level would INCREASE the oil out of the intake
drains. What is the logic behind that? No M-14 equipped tail wheel
airplane that I know of EVER jacks their plane up to keep it level that
I know of Doc. Where did you come up with that?
On the other hand, if you keep the engine level, more of the oil will
stay in the cylinder, decreasing the oil coming out of the intake drain
(as you said) when you pull it through, but INCREASING the amount of oil
coming out the exhaust, and increasing the chance of hydraulic lock.
I must be missing something here. Not disagreeing, I just don't get it.
Mark
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viperdoc(at)mindspring.co Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 7:22 pm Post subject: Over- priming |
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Mark,
Instead of the nose sitting at 13.4 deg, the angle is decreased to
approximately 8-9 degrees with the jack under the tail. The plane is not
level with this system. I came up with the idea when I pulled blades on
morning after the palne had been sitting for a couple of weeks. When I
pulled 14 blades, I got a fair amount oil out then just as I ready to close
the drain, another few globules of oil began to floe.
Since I have been doing this, I seldom have a problem with the continued
drainage of oil since that time.
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viperdoc(at)mindspring.co Guest
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Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 7:23 pm Post subject: Over- priming |
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This system would require the closure of the sump drain prior to T.O.
Doc
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m Guest
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Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:38 am Post subject: Over- priming |
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The question is why that is happening. Oil is oil. It is going to do
what it does, no matter how the aircraft is jacked, leveled, or
whatever. Changing the angle is only going to impact where that oil
ends up. At the extreme side, if we had the tail of the aircraft
pointing straight up, ... As in fully nose down, it would take a lot in
order to get any oil into the intake tubes. Thus all the oil stays in
the cylinders where it originally came from, or flows out the exhaust.
Sorta.
At the other extreme, with the nose straight up, any oil from the
cylinders is going to try to go out an open valve if it can. If the
intake is open, it will flow back into the intake tubes.
At angles in-between those two extremes, you will get various amounts of
oil into the intake tubes.
If there is too much oil in the cylinders, you are going to have to end
up pulling spark plugs, or you bend a rod.
If there is too much oil LEFT in the intake tubes when you go to start
it, you take a chance of gulping in a big slug of oil and then bending a
rod again.
Seems to me that either thing is a bad thing.
The real fix is to totally prevent oil from getting into the damn engine
in the first place. The factory method to prevent that is a ball check
valve in the accessory drive oil pump area. Having this check valve
working properly prevents oil from flowing through the oil pump gear and
then into the engine itself. Making that valve work perfectly is hard
to do. You can make it work BETTER, but it's hard to make it work
PERFECTLY.
In the end, the very best method to prevent this is to just TURN OFF THE
OIL SUPPLY! Kevin Kimball sells a valve that you can put in the supply
oil line that does just that. It also includes an electric position
switch that you can tie into your start circuit to help prevent starting
the airplane with the oil system shut off, which is obviously a bad
thing. Clearly, the valve is the best method to stop all this nonsense,
to where you can pull through NO blades if you want to, and be able and
jump in and start the aircraft just like a Cessna. (Heaven forbid!) Of
course the danger is that if you screw up, you just ruined the engine.
Of course if you start up with a hydraulic lock, you ALSO will destroy
at least one cylinder, and possibly the whole engine as well. In the
meantime we yank the prop through, carefully checking for "how it feels"
for the fist 8 blades or so. You can bend a rod simply by pulling it
through too hard with oil in those cylinders!
I think a manual shut off valve is the right choice for me. It also
means you won't need a sump drain pump, or bleed system, no jacks under
the tail, nothing. Just land, shut off the engine, turn off the valve.
YOU'RE DONE. Comes time to fly again, turn on the valve, start the
engine. Personally, I would tie the electrical switch not only into the
starter circuit, but also to be a big red "DON'T BE AN IDIOT" light in
the cockpit. Big flashing red one.
Mark Bitterlich
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