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icubob(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 7:57 am Post subject: 120 volt connectors |
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hi all,
i am making up a wiring harness for silicon pad heaters for my jab. 6 heaters at 50-100 watts each. i would like to use a connector for each pad lead . any suggestions for a 120 volt set up like this?
bob noffs
[quote][b]
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sportav8r(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:00 am Post subject: 120 volt connectors |
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Wow. 2-minutes from plug-in to oil temps in the green, eh? 600 watts ought to get you there!
I have been planning to use a computer power supply cord and cannibalized AC chassis socket in the side of my cowl for this job, but have never gotten around to it. Aversion to fiberglass work set in shortly after I got her flying a decade ago 
Bill Boyd RV-6A
On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 10:27 AM, bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com (icubob(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote] hi all,
i am making up a wiring harness for silicon pad heaters for my jab. 6 heaters at 50-100 watts each. i would like to use a connector for each pad lead . any suggestions for a 120 volt set up like this?
bob noffs
| Quote: |
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
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="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
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[b]
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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| Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:01 pm Post subject: 120 volt connectors |
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At 10:15 AM 12/20/2009, you wrote:
| Quote: | Wow. 2-minutes from plug-in to oil temps in the green, eh? 600 watts ought to get you there!
I have been planning to use a computer power supply cord and cannibalized AC chassis socket in the side of my cowl for this job, but have never gotten around to it. Aversion to fiberglass work set in shortly after I got her flying a decade ago
Bill Boyd RV-6A
On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 10:27 AM, bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com (icubob(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
hi all,
i am making up a wiring harness for silicon pad heaters for my jab. 6 heaters at 50-100 watts each. i would like to use a connector for each pad lead . any suggestions for a 120 volt set up like this? |
How about knife-splices with heat-shrink covers for
harness work under the cowl. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/ksplc2.jpg
Bill's suggestion for a detachable line cord is sound.
You can salvage a recessed chassis mount male connector
from about any old piece of computing hardware. One
of my customers on 1K1 did the same thing. His heater
connector was accessible through the oil filler door
on top of the cowl.
Bob . . .
[quote][b]
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icubob(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 1:43 pm Post subject: 120 volt connectors |
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i guess my question wasn.t clear. i am concerned about what type of radio shack connector will be acceptable for 120 volts where each heatpad lead connects to the ''main'' lead. i would see the ''main lead'' wired into the ac chassis socket.
bob noffs
On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 2:59 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
[quote] At 10:15 AM 12/20/2009, you wrote:
| Quote: | Wow. 2-minutes from plug-in to oil temps in the green, eh? 600 watts ought to get you there!
I have been planning to use a computer power supply cord and cannibalized AC chassis socket in the side of my cowl for this job, but have never gotten around to it. Aversion to fiberglass work set in shortly after I got her flying a decade ago
Bill Boyd RV-6A
On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 10:27 AM, bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com (icubob(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
hi all,
i am making up a wiring harness for silicon pad heaters for my jab. 6 heaters at 50-100 watts each. i would like to use a connector for each pad lead . any suggestions for a 120 volt set up like this? |
How about knife-splices with heat-shrink covers for
harness work under the cowl. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/ksplc2.jpg
Bill's suggestion for a detachable line cord is sound.
You can salvage a recessed chassis mount male connector
from about any old piece of computing hardware. One
of my customers on 1K1 did the same thing. His heater
connector was accessible through the oil filler door
on top of the cowl.
Bob . . .
| Quote: |
"_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com/" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
ank">www.howtocrimp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
ttp://forums.matronics.com
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[b]
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ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne
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| Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 6:03 pm Post subject: 120 volt connectors |
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On 12/20/2009 3:41 PM, bob noffs wrote:
| Quote: | i guess my question wasn.t clear. i am concerned about what type of
radio shack connector will be acceptable for 120 volts where each
heatpad lead connects to the ''main'' lead. i would see the ''main
lead'' wired into the ac chassis socket.
bob noffs
On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 2:59 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III
<nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com <mailto:nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>>
wrote:
At 10:15 AM 12/20/2009, you wrote:
> Wow. 2-minutes from plug-in to oil temps in the green, eh? 600
> watts ought to get you there!
>
> I have been planning to use a computer power supply cord and
> cannibalized AC chassis socket in the side of my cowl for this
> job, but have never gotten around to it. Aversion to fiberglass
> work set in shortly after I got her flying a decade ago
>
> Bill Boyd RV-6A
>
> On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 10:27 AM, bob noffs <icubob(at)gmail.com
> <mailto:icubob(at)gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> hi all,
> i am making up a wiring harness for silicon pad heaters for
> my jab. 6 heaters at 50-100 watts each. i would like to use a
> connector for each pad lead . any suggestions for a 120 volt
> set up like this?
>
How about knife-splices with heat-shrink covers for
harness work under the cowl. See:
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Terminals/ksplc2.jpg
Bill's suggestion for a detachable line cord is sound.
You can salvage a recessed chassis mount male connector
from about any old piece of computing hardware. One
of my customers on 1K1 did the same thing. His heater
connector was accessible through the oil filler door
on top of the cowl.
Bob . . .
Boy, it sure is hard to follow a conversation in RPN.... 
|
PIDG connectors (or solder) should be good if you weatherproof the
container where you join all the cables. If you want to plug in each
heater to a box, I'd think about salvaging some modern under-hood
automotive connectors for their moisture protection value. It's hard to
believe that 120 V would be a problem on any modern insulation.
A thought on the actual primary connector. It might be a good idea to
use a 'standard' chassis mount or pigtail AC connector (available online
or at any good electrical supply house) instead of a computer power
connector, if you ever expect to pre-heat away from home. That way, most
any extension cord should plug in. Unlikely that you would find a spare
computer cord at the airport in East Podunk.
Charlie
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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| Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 7:03 pm Post subject: 120 volt connectors |
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At 03:41 PM 12/20/2009, you wrote:
| Quote: | i guess my question wasn.t clear. i am concerned about what type of
radio shack connector will be acceptable for 120 volts where each
heatpad lead connects to the ''main'' lead. i would see the ''main
lead'' wired into the ac chassis socket.
|
"Acceptable" is a hard term to define. The concerns
for any wiring that carries a lot of voltage and
supplied from an energetic source (15A or better
breaker) is integrity of the connections. When
folks wire such devices in houses, they're either
spliced permanently and independently insulated
or semi-permanent connection (wire nut, screw clamp,
etc) inside a suitable enclosure.
The knife splices are as close as you can get to
permanent and still open the joints for maintenance.
Soldered splices under heat shrink would be the
most "acceptable" in terms of mechanical robustness.
If you're prepared to live with anything less, then
about any connector in the catalog will do.
Bob . . .
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icubob(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 4:16 am Post subject: 120 volt connectors |
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hi all,
thanks for all the ideas. i think i will go with the computer receptacle and knife splices. i would only need the knife splices if a heat pad fails and i can carry the computer cord in the airplane.
bob noffs
On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 9:02 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
[quote]--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)>
At 03:41 PM 12/20/2009, you wrote:
| Quote: | i guess my question wasn.t clear. i am concerned about what type of radio shack connector will be acceptable for 120 volts where each heatpad lead connects to the ''main'' lead. i would see the ''main lead'' wired into the ac chassis socket.
|
"Acceptable" is a hard term to define. The concerns
for any wiring that carries a lot of voltage and
supplied from an energetic source (15A or better
breaker) is integrity of the connections. When
folks wire such devices in houses, they're either
spliced permanently and independently insulated
or semi-permanent connection (wire nut, screw clamp,
etc) inside a suitable enclosure.
The knife splices are as close as you can get to
permanent and still open the joints for maintenance.
Soldered splices under heat shrink would be the
most "acceptable" in terms of mechanical robustness.
If you're prepared to live with anything less, then
about any connector in the catalog will do.
Bob . . .
www.howtocrimp.comhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
==============
[b]
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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| Posted: Mon Dec 21, 2009 8:23 am Post subject: 120 volt connectors |
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At 06:13 AM 12/21/2009, you wrote:
| Quote: | hi all,
thanks for all the ideas. i think i will go with the computer
receptacle and knife splices. i would only need the knife splices
if a heat pad fails and i can carry the computer cord in the airplane.
|
If you can, see what the Tannis folks do about wiring
up heaters on TC aircraft. Have the "computer"
cord receptacle face downward in the airplane.
Bob . . .
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