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		allenricks(at)verizon.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 3:43 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... | 
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				Dear fellow listers...
 
 I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins.  Two questions.
 
 1.  Does anyone have a really great method or advice for cutting the
     inspection panels out.  Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill
 and file, or any other
     great method.
 
 2.  I need to cut the skins for the wing locker option.  Again, any great
     advice here.  I do have a hand held high speed air cutting wheel.
     Anyone tried one of these,and does it heat the metal
     too much?  Can you keep it straight?  Any other advice or tips.
 
 I'd really hate to screw up the skins at this point.  They are ready to
 rivet in place once I have accomplished the above two tasks.
 
 Thanks.
 
 Allen Ricks
 Beaverton, OR.
 
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		larry(at)macsmachine.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 4:43 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... | 
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				Allen,
 Don't use any power equipment.  These are best done by hand.  If you 
 need to cut a circle type
 hole for inspection, drill a quarter inch hole at center of it with a 
 drill. Then put a sharp tool in your
 fly-cutter with the vertical side of the cutting tool to the outside, 
 manually pull the tool like a compass
 in a circle with very light pressure to remove material until the disk 
 virtually drops into your hand.  This
 is a fool-proof method where using a drill can be easily pressing your 
 luck. Takes about 10 minutes.
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessspydersafety.gif
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessplate2.gif
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/inspectail.gif
 
 On the luggage wing opening, carefully ink mark your opening. Drill a 
 hole with a step drill a couple of
 inches inside of the line.  Cut the skin away with your best Weiss hand 
 shears, right or left hand and work
 the hole down to an inch from the ink mark. Then cut to leave an eighth 
 inch.  Then proceed to cut on the
 inside edge of the ink mark with the shears. Afterward, carefully file 
 the edge to smooth it and keep it straight.
 This method removes material in a way that will least likely bend any 
 outside the perimeter of the hole you
 intend to make. Takes a little time, but it is a sure way to get a good 
 job. See links below.
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/baggagearea/full/baggage-door-rear.gif
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/baggagearea/full/luggageopenrear.gif  
    
 If you have further questions, just ask.
 Good luck,
 Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
 Allen Ricks wrote:
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  
 
 Dear fellow listers...
 
 I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins.  Two questions.
 
 1.  Does anyone have a really great method or advice for cutting the
     inspection panels out.  Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill
 and file, or any other
     great method.
 
 2.  I need to cut the skins for the wing locker option.  Again, any great
     advice here.  I do have a hand held high speed air cutting wheel.
     Anyone tried one of these,and does it heat the metal
     too much?  Can you keep it straight?  Any other advice or tips.
 
 I'd really hate to screw up the skins at this point.  They are ready to
 rivet in place once I have accomplished the above two tasks.
 
 Thanks.
 
 Allen Ricks
 Beaverton, OR.
   
 
 
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		pilotdna(at)hotmail.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:11 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... | 
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				Hi Allen,
 
 I have not yet made any inspection holes and can't help you there.  However, 
 I do cut everything using a die grinder with a 3" cutting wheel as you 
 mentioned.  It works extremely well, and the thinnest style wheels 
 (depending on vendor, they range from paper thin to almost 1/8" thick) slice 
 through .032 and thinner sheet so fast it only gets slightly warm to the 
 touch.  The wheel will not distort the edges as hand shears do, and it 
 allows "plunge cuts" like you need to do for the locker openings.
 
 After using the cutting wheel to cut close to your intended line, a 90 
 degree die grinder with a small 50 grit sanding disk allows very 
 controllable final trimming, although if you need to trim more than an 
 eighth inch or so you may have to pause to allow cooling since the sanding 
 disk does heat the metal up quickly.
 
 This is the technique I have used for all rib, horn, fitting, and skin 
 blanks for the H. Stab and elevator.  However, that is all I have built so 
 take it for what it's worth.
 
 Do not Archive
 
 Douglas Eatman
 601XL/Corvair scratch builder
 
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		bill_dom(at)yahoo.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:11 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... | 
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				Two words.. Olfa Knife
 http://www.ch601.org/tools/olfa.htm 
 
 It is the best thing for straight cuts like the one
 needed for the wing lockers.
 
 William Dominguez
 Plansbuilt Zodiac 601XL
 --- Allen Ricks <allenricks(at)verizon.net> wrote:
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   
  <allenricks(at)verizon.net>
  
  Dear fellow listers...
  
  I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins. 
  Two questions.
  
  1.  Does anyone have a really great method or advice
  for cutting the
      inspection panels out.  Anyone had good luck
  with a hole saw vs. drill
  and file, or any other
      great method.
  
  2.  I need to cut the skins for the wing locker
  option.  Again, any great
      advice here.  I do have a hand held high speed
  air cutting wheel.
      Anyone tried one of these,and does it heat the
  metal
      too much?  Can you keep it straight?  Any other
  advice or tips.
  
  I'd really hate to screw up the skins at this point.
   They are ready to
  rivet in place once I have accomplished the above
  two tasks.
  
  Thanks.
  
  Allen Ricks
  Beaverton, OR.
  
  
  
  
 
  browse
  Subscriptions page,
  FAQ,
  http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
  Admin.
 
  
  
  
   
   
   
  
  
  
  
 
 | 	  
 
 protection around
 
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		naumuk(at)alltel.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:18 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... | 
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				---
 
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		frank.hinde(at)hp.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 5:55 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... | 
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				For the baggage holes I had rapid success with a jigsaw...Tape the skins
 with masking tape so the foot of the saw won't scratch...Then let it
 rip...Now don't try to cut up to the edges of the hole with a saw,
 grinding wheel or anything else that is "hi speed"...simply cut to
 within 3/8ths" minimum and finish off with tin snips.
 
 This mthod has them cut in no time flat!
 
 Frank
 
 601HDS 395 hours...fresh BFR
 
  
 
 --
 
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		p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 6:19 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... | 
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				Hi Allen,
 
 It seems like there are as many ways to cut holes in wing skins as 
 there are builders doing it.  Let me add my method to the list of alternatives.
 
 First I mark exactly the shape I want in the finished hole with a 
 felt tip (permanent) marker.  This often requires making a pattern 
 from 1/8 inch plywood or similar material and just tracing the 
 outline.  In the case of an inspection hole, I mark the centerline 
 and endpoints of the oval shape on the wing and then use my full size 
 pattern with matching centerline marks to locate and draw the outline 
 on the skin.
 
 To get the actual hole I use what I call my "Sneaking up" 
 method.  This method works for everything from forming nearly perfect 
 inspection holes to machining parts on a lathe or shoving dirt and 
 gravel around with a tractor.  In the wing skin case, I start by 
 making a nice hole with a step drill somewhere inside the marked 
 pattern.  This hole winds up being 3/4 inch or so and is large enough 
 to allow tin snips to start cutting toward the final outline.  Next I 
 make as many repeated passes as necessary with the snips removing 
 metal from the hole.  Depending on the shape needed, I stop using the 
 snips when I am around 1/4 inch from the final mark to right on the 
 line for a straight portion of the outline.  Then I move to hand 
 files and sometimes a Dremel tool with a triangular (conical?) rotary 
 file to work ever closer to the final line.  I like the triangular 
 shape because I can choose to use the small radius portion for slow 
 cutting or move to larger radius portion for faster metal removal.  A 
 rat tail file is great for forming relatively small radius areas like 
 a rounded inside corner.
 
 For an actual inspection plate, I start by making the plate 
 itself.  I drill pilot holes where the final screws will go.  After 
 finding the correct position for the plate, I attach it to the skin 
 with duct tape and drill through the holes to get perfect matches for 
 the holes in the skin.  Clecos are handy for this process too.  The 
 actual inspection hole is then marked inside the screw holes and the 
 metal is removed.  Meanwhile the screw holes are opened up to the 
 required size for the screws and nut plates installed on the 
 inspection plate.  (I set the solid rivets using a 1 ton arbor press 
 I have had around the shop for a long time.)  After creating the 
 inspection hole, the screw holes are enlarged.  To install the 
 inspection plate I like to attach a temporary handle with duct tape 
 rolled into a circle to make double stick duct tape.  That is used to 
 hold a block of wood onto the plate to position it for the 
 screws.  After the screws are installed the temporary handle comes right off.
 
 After reaching the marked outline, it is time to finish the edge of 
 metal.  I do this with smooth files of appropriate shape.  The half 
 round shape seems to be the best for most uses.  Final finish can be 
 done with the files or a few passes with extra fine grit sandpaper or 
 emery cloth will make a very smooth edge that won't cut you or one of 
 your many girlfriends while they are stowing baggage for the weekend 
 in the wilderness.
 
 Good luck,
 
 Paul
 XL wings
 At 04:28 PM 4/12/2006, you wrote:
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  Does anyone have a really great method or advice for cutting the
      inspection panels out.  Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill
 and file, or any other
      great method.
 
 | 	 
 
 
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		hrs1(at)frontiernet.net Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 6:36 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... | 
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				How about cutting the outline with Jillson snips - slow, sure, and easy. 
 Touch up with a file.  Robert Schoenberger  do not archive
 
 ---
 
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		jeffrey_davidson(at)earth Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Apr 12, 2006 7:46 pm    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... | 
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				Allen Ricks wrote:
 I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins.  Two questions.
 Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill and file, or any other
 great method.
 
 Allen,
 	FWIW I used a unibit to drill out the four corners of the opening.
 Then I enlarged the openings with a hand nibbler enough to use simple
 straight hand snips with a non-serrated edge.  Then I filed the cut edges
 smooth.  It is a manual process, but I felt that I had a lot more control
 this way.  They came out fine.  
 
 Jeff Davidson
 Do not archive
 
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		Gig Giacona
 
 
  Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 1416 Location: El Dorado Arkansas USA
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				 Posted: Thu Apr 13, 2006 6:32 am    Post subject: Re: Access panel and wing lockers... | 
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				Two questions for you Larry.
 
 First, Could you take some closeup photos of the installed fasteners on your wing lockers? Or point me somewhere I can get instructions on how to install them. I've put off their installation and I'm goinfg to have to install them sooner or later and I'm not really sure how they are installed.
 
 Second, did you make those inspection point springy things or did you buy them and if so where?
 
 GigG
 www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
 
  	  | larry(at)macsmachine.com wrote: | 	 		  Allen,
 Don't use any power equipment.  These are best done by hand.  If you 
 need to cut a circle type
 hole for inspection, drill a quarter inch hole at center of it with a 
 drill. Then put a sharp tool in your
 fly-cutter with the vertical side of the cutting tool to the outside, 
 manually pull the tool like a compass
 in a circle with very light pressure to remove material until the disk 
 virtually drops into your hand.  This
 is a fool-proof method where using a drill can be easily pressing your 
 luck. Takes about 10 minutes.
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessspydersafety.gif
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessplate2.gif
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/largeassembly2/full/inspectail.gif
 
 On the luggage wing opening, carefully ink mark your opening. Drill a 
 hole with a step drill a couple of
 inches inside of the line.  Cut the skin away with your best Weiss hand 
 shears, right or left hand and work
 the hole down to an inch from the ink mark. Then cut to leave an eighth 
 inch.  Then proceed to cut on the
 inside edge of the ink mark with the shears. Afterward, carefully file 
 the edge to smooth it and keep it straight.
 This method removes material in a way that will least likely bend any 
 outside the perimeter of the hole you
 intend to make. Takes a little time, but it is a sure way to get a good 
 job. See links below.
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/baggagearea/full/baggage-door-rear.gif
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/baggagearea/full/luggageopenrear.gif  
    
 If you have further questions, just ask.
 Good luck,
 Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
 Allen Ricks wrote:
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  
 
 Dear fellow listers...
 
 I am about to commit metalcide on my wing skins.  Two questions.
 
 1.  Does anyone have a really great method or advice for cutting the
     inspection panels out.  Anyone had good luck with a hole saw vs. drill
 and file, or any other
     great method.
 
 2.  I need to cut the skins for the wing locker option.  Again, any great
     advice here.  I do have a hand held high speed air cutting wheel.
     Anyone tried one of these,and does it heat the metal
     too much?  Can you keep it straight?  Any other advice or tips.
 
 I'd really hate to screw up the skins at this point.  They are ready to
 rivet in place once I have accomplished the above two tasks.
 
 Thanks.
 
 Allen Ricks
 Beaverton, OR.
   
  | 	 
  | 	 
 
 
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  |  
 
 
 
 
  _________________ W.R. "Gig" Giacona
 
601XL Under Construction
 
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR | 
			 
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		larry(at)macsmachine.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Thu Apr 13, 2006 10:17 am    Post subject: Access panel and wing lockers... | 
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				Gig,
 I used Dzus fasteners have been illustrated for the installation in the 
 2006 Aircraft Spruce Catalog
 on page 105.  The problem with Dzus components is picking the right 
 sizes. See the following links.
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/Dzustools.gif
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/Dzusdimples.gif
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/Dzusspring.gif
 The links show a Dzus tool set, the dimpled set of holes that are needed 
 and the back side
 of the installed Dzus spring.  I use A4 rivets to secure the springs.  
 Dimple the material for the head
 and use the flat surface on the pop riveter to secure.  Dzus springs are 
 S4-225s. The Dzus studs are
 S4 (1/4-inch) and are -50 length.  The Dzus grommets are GB4B.
 You need a set of dimpling dies that can be pulled with your pop riveter.
 I had to make a similar dimpler for the large stud holes to dimple them too.
 You need to make a steel drill template to allow marking and drilling 
 accurate holes
 for the springs and Dzus studs. The holes for the studs should be 
 5/16-inch and the
 holes for the rivets are 1/8-inch.  You need to make a shim to adjust 
 the springs to the correct
 height from a smooth surface for uniformity.  The installed spring needs 
 to be centered across
 the stud hole accurately and can be done visually.  All spring height 
 and centering adjustments can be
 made by hand with two pair of pliers.
 Also, you want to install the springs in a manner that leaves the slot 
 aligned with the wind or uniform to
 the rest of the installed studs.
 Now, as you progress in making or obtaining these parts and making the 
 tools, don't just start on your
 airplane.  Make a test sample installation on one or two sample patches 
 of aluminum.  When you're satisfied
 that the installed Dzus pieces are done correctly, then start on your 
 luggage area.  I prefer the Dzus fasteners
 to the newer components because they're simpler.  If you aren't 
 satisfied with the fit, you drill out the rivets as
 you would for any other redo and salvage the springs.  You might need to 
 tighten the spring for the rivet or not
 but I've not had any come loose since they were installed.
 
 The spiders for the inspection plates are of my own design.  The spiders 
 have half an inch overlap on the inspection
 holes.  The centers are held by an 8-32 screw in a rivnut.  The .040 
 inspection plates were spun in a lathe to remove half an inch
 of material thickness or .015 so the plate stays centered in the hole 
 and the spider is adjusted to a consistent
 height that snugs the plate and won't let go.  You should try making 
 one. They're not really hard to do.  If you need
 to put one forward of the spar underneath, I recommend you add a leading 
 edge screw and tinnerman for security.
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/spiders.jpg
 http://www.macsmachine.com/images/wing/inspectionpanels/full/accessspydersafety.gif
 
 Good luck,
 
 Larry McFarland- 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
 
 Gig Giacona wrote:
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  
 
 Two questions for you Larry.
 
 First, Could you take some closeup photos of the installed fasteners on your wing lockers? Or point me somewhere I can get instructions on how to install them. I've put off their installation and I'm goinfg to have to install them sooner or later and I'm not really sure how they are installed.
 
 Second, did you make those inspection point springy things or did you buy them and if so where?
 
 GigG
 
   
 
 
 | 	 
 
 
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