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Strasnuts

Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

Posted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:43 am Post subject: doors & insulation

Hey Bill,



I don't know if the pink canopy is any better in the edges, they are very 

inconsistent but then again I am using an aftermarket seal.  I have been 

building the "gutter" up with thin strips of fiberglass until it is flat on 

the outside.  When it got close I filled it flat with epoxy and milled 

glass.  You have to use something like glass strips because it has to be 

structural, you end up trimming so much down on the other side.  I was lost 

for a while and finally started seeing the light at the end of the tunnel 

when taking off the door a million times and touching up each spot that 

looked too close or filling anything with a gap too wide.  I'm sure a lot of 

people are much faster at this.  I know if I had to do another RV-10 I would 

do the same seal and it would go a lot faster knowing what I know now.

---

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_________________
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours

MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:48 am Post subject: doors & insulation

So, did you use the same McMaster seals I'm getting ready to use?

1 	1120A411 

<http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=1120A411&sesnextrep=589606556598957&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist> 

	30 Ft. 	Edge-grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/4" Edge, 3/8" 

Bulb Width



And if so, can you help me understand what is 'flat on the outside'?



I've heard various things about how the door gutter should be trimmed.  

Right now, I have them trimmed in a way that these seals work quite well:

2 	93745K23 

<http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=93745K23&sesnextrep=589606556598957&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist> 

	1 Each 	Oil-and Water-resistant Vinyl/buna-n Foam, Adhesive-back, 

Extra-soft, 1/8" Thk, 3/4"w, 50'l

3 	93745K43 

<http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=93745K43&sesnextrep=589606556598957&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist> 

	1 Each 	Oil-and Water-resistant Vinyl/buna-n Foam, Adhesive-back, 

Extra-soft, 1/4" Thk, 3/4"w, 50'l



But this material simply sticks to the door and compresses very easily 

with a lot of memory.  Same stuff I have on my Maule.  Very easy to fit  

and would look OK if I was painting my door.  But it won't work if 

covering the door with headliner material as I'm planning to do.



So my door/gutter joint has a gap of between 1/8" (very narrow) and 3/8" 

around the edges.  And the gutter edge/face itself varies from being 

almost parallel to the door at the top near the hinges  to being 

perpendicular to the door at the bottom edge.  Not very consistent.



It looks like I will have to widen the gap along the top and in a few 

places along the side to accomodate the 3/8" bulb so it doesn't change 

the exterior fit of the door (which is quite nice now after much filling 

per Deem's technique). I will also have to thin the edge down in places 

where it's too fat to take the 1/4" edged grip. 



In doing all that, I'm guessing that there is some end state that I 

should be working towards that is not obvious to me yet.  I'm wondering 

if you can help steer me towards that since you were once "lost" but now 

found, so to speak.



Isn't it amazing how much you know AFTER you climb the learning curve 

and finish one of the thousand tasks on this project.... almost makes 

you want to start another.



Thanks for the reply.



Bill



Seano wrote:

[quote] 



 Hey Bill,



 I don't know if the pink canopy is any better in the edges, they are 

 very inconsistent but then again I am using an aftermarket seal.  I 

 have been building the "gutter" up with thin strips of fiberglass 

 until it is flat on the outside.  When it got close I filled it flat 

 with epoxy and milled glass.  You have to use something like glass 

 strips because it has to be structural, you end up trimming so much 

 down on the other side.  I was lost for a while and finally started 

 seeing the light at the end of the tunnel when taking off the door a 

 million times and touching up each spot that looked too close or 

 filling anything with a gap too wide.  I'm sure a lot of people are 

 much faster at this.  I know if I had to do another RV-10 I would do 

 the same seal and it would go a lot faster knowing what I know now.

 ---

- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

Strasnuts

Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:03 am Post subject: doors & insulation

Bill,

Call me

801-580-3737

---

- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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_________________
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours

msausen

Joined: 25 Oct 2007
Posts: 559
Location: Appleton, WI USA

Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:03 am Post subject: doors & insulation

I used the edge grip stuff as most others have.  This has the added nicety of trimming the gutter edge and making it look very finished.  My process went something like this:



- Fit the door

- Adjust the door to gutter gap to about 3/8" all the way around using whatever method ( a surform, aka cheese grater, works well for this and the following work)

- Build up the gutter edge on whichever side with flox to make it more perpendicular to the door

- rough finish, check edge, attack with surform, repeat

- once "close" I cut strips of the edging to check rough fit and filled in or removed material as necessary

- once that was close I installed the seal all the way and checked fit and adjusted until the door could be closed AND locked without a great deal of force

- Once that was complete I removed the seal and proceeded with the finish work of the gutters to make sure everything blended in nicely



Wash, rinse, repeat for the other side.   I also used the 100 MPH release tape method of creating covers for the door hinges which I then permanently attached by bedding in with flox and using nutplates to attach.  Once Abby covered my doors they look very nice.



Michael



--

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