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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 805
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 Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 11:29 pm Post subject: Wing rigging information request. |
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Hi Group
I am close to bonding in place the front and rear lift pin sockets and have a few areas I would like input from those that have already done this task:
1) Did you bond in place both the starboard and port wing lift pin sockets at the same time? How did the incidence come out once the supports were removed? Did it change? If so which way did the change occur? Would you recommend to do both wings at once if you were to do it again?
I am on fence at the moment on this one. My starboard wing needs more upward force (I have a pump jack pushing up between the middle and outer flap on the trail edge of the wing) than the port one does (the port requires very little upward force). I am thinking I may want to bond the starboard side first. This way if it twangs to a little more angle of attack, I would set the port wing to match and probably have a better chance the port wing would not twang because it is pretty happy with very little upward external forces on the trail edge.
2) To set proper angle of incedence, did you only push up on the trail edge of the wing between the middle and outer flap hinge and let the wing be supported by the spar pins? In other words the wing is only supported a little by the lifting of the trail edge, but mostly by pushing down on the spar pin closer to the root of the wing, and pushing up on the spar pin near the tip of the spar? Then bond in place the the starboard and port wing lift pin sockets.
I am on the fence on this one as well. I am thinking I want to also push up on the tip of the wing trailing edge at about the most outboard portion of the aileron to get the spar pins to the point where I can at least rotate them.
I am afraid if I just set incidence by pushing up between the middle and outer flap hinge, there is so much weight from gravity pushing on the spar pins and jamming them, if I bond in place the lift pin sockets in this configuration it may be very hard to rig and derig because the spar pins are binding.
3) This is just a curiosity question to see if there are others out there that made the blunder I did when installing the rear socket shims.
We fabricated shims with wings rigged and angle of incedence set, taped a piece of paper to fuse with circles on it and taped it in place to target the center of the rear socket, had a .090" spacer on the shim, after drilling a small hole in the center of paper template and shims then bonded the shim in place with JB KWIK weld using the holes with the back of a drill bit for alignment and 4 BID over the shims.
OK 4 BID cured and time for a trial fit. This time instead of relying on my Mk 1 eyeball to make sure that 26B and 26A are in the middle of their wiggle, we temporarily bonded in place G-10 spacers that holds these items perfectly in the center of their wiggle room where the outboard side of the 26B housing is parallel with the inboard 26A body (this is the side that will be bonded to the fuse).
After trial fit we discovered not very nice results.
Oh well, tomorrow will be grinding off the top portion of these pads and adding some shim to the bottom portion and reglassing.
I should have put on the G-10 shims first to hold the assembly neutral, it would have saved me this second step.
Anyway it kinda fits as is but any positive Gs will be loading the 26A body because it is at the limit.
Thanking you in advance.
Ron Parigoris
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kevann(at)gotsky.com
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| Posted: Tue Oct 12, 2010 4:52 am Post subject: Wing rigging information request. |
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Hi Ron,
I did both at the same time. They came out fine, measuring the same as the
support set up. I recall one wing needing more force to be in position, as
you have noted.
Kevin
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