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Re mounting the engine

 
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 8:05 pm    Post subject: Re mounting the engine Reply with quote

I had the engine on once before, but had to remove it to get the plane out of the basement. I have two questions.

1) It seems like the ears which come off the engine case have a slight amount of play in them before one torques down the four nuts which holds each one of them on. When I mounted my engine the first time I torqued the bolts which I could easily torque and guestimated the tightness on the others. When mounting the engine to the engine mount, one of the engine bolts did not passively fit through the mount and the engine ear. It required a taperred steel dowl to align it and get the bolt in(not uncommon).
Is it possible to leave that forth ear tight, but not torqued and get the forth engine bolt in through the mount and ear and then tighten the nuts on the ear, remove the engine again and torque all the nuts for the ears and then remount the engine to the engine mount? Basically, is there enough play in the fit of the ears to allow this? If possible, it would help from straining the mount which would be best if it fit passively with the four mount bolts.
2) The difficult access nuts on the engine ears (two of the total four) appear to need torqueing with a crows foot and the torque wrench. I cannot find a site on the internet which explains the proper formula for setting the torque correctly when using a torgue wrench and a crows foot. Due to the offset, does it mean one needs more torque or less?
Thank you,
John G 409
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 9:04 pm    Post subject: Re mounting the engine Reply with quote

John,

I would not recommend leaving the ear loose to make it easier to mount the ear to the engine mount. I would think that it shouldn't be loose enough on the case to allow for this anyway. I usually have the engine on a hoist and get the bottom two bolts and rubbers in place and finger tight, then lift on the engine with the hoist until the top ears are in place. Usually there is enough play because of the rubber mounts to get one top bolt in easily. Then, I usually am able by hand to push on the rubber mount that goes between the ear and the engine mount enough to get the bolt through. Once the bolt is through the engine mount and the first rubber, the spacer and the second rubber fit without any trouble.
On the crow's foot, my rule of thumb has always been to set it at 90 degrees from the torque wrench and then use the actual torque on the wrench. I don't let the torque wrench rachet. At 90 degrees you should have accurate torque through to the nut via the crow's foot. If you don't set it at 90 degrees, then you need to set it straight with the torque wrench and there is a calculation to convert torque based on the distance from the "clicking" part of the wrench to the center of the wrench and that point to the center of the crow's foot or extension. I don't now the formula off hand, but you should be able to look it up online.
I hope this helps.
do not archive

Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694

On Nov 17, 2010, at 10:55 PM, John Gonzalez wrote:
Quote:
I had the engine on once before, but had to remove it to get the plane out of the basement. I have two questions.

1) It seems like the ears which come off the engine case have a slight amount of play in them before one torques down the four nuts which holds each one of them on. When I mounted my engine the first time I torqued the bolts which I could easily torque and guestimated the tightness on the others. When mounting the engine to the engine mount, one of the engine bolts did not passively fit through the mount and the engine ear. It required a taperred steel dowl to align it and get the bolt in(not uncommon).
Is it possible to leave that forth ear tight, but not torqued and get the forth engine bolt in through the mount and ear and then tighten the nuts on the ear, remove the engine again and torque all the nuts for the ears and then remount the engine to the engine mount? Basically, is there enough play in the fit of the ears to allow this? If possible, it would help from straining the mount which would be best if it fit passively with the four mount bolts.
2) The difficult access nuts on the engine ears (two of the total four) appear to need torqueing with a crows foot and the torque wrench. I cannot find a site on the internet which explains the proper formula for setting the torque correctly when using a torgue wrench and a crows foot. Due to the offset, does it mean one needs more torque or less?
Thank you,
John G 409
Quote:


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daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 9:04 pm    Post subject: Re mounting the engine Reply with quote

Less torque, you are extending the lever arm.

Dave Leikam
RV-10 N89DA
Muskego, WI
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Bob Turner



Joined: 03 Jan 2009
Posts: 885
Location: Castro Valley, CA

PostPosted: Wed Nov 17, 2010 9:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Re mounting the engine Reply with quote

As already noted, if the crow's foot is perpendicular to the torque wrench, then what you see is what you get.
If the crow's foot and torque wrench are lined up straight (away), then the torque you get is greater than what is set, by the ratio of the total distance from your hand to the bolt, divided by the distance from your hand to the torque wrench square drive.


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