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gilalex(at)earthlink.net
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 Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 8:39 pm Post subject: Baffle cutting |
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Dave,
I made the baffle distance equal to the distance to the inter-cylinder
baffle when measured from the bayonet CHT sensor hole, and copied the 45
degree cutoff that was already there.
Home Depot had some nice springs (part # SP9600 near the screen door
hardware section) which seemed to be just right to keep the cut baffle in
place.
It replaced the twisted wire I previously had - and the parts manual even
shows springs.....
gil in Tucson
At 05:52 PM 5/2/2006, you wrote:
[quote]
Sealing the oil cooler to baffle sounds like a good idea, how much should
the cylinder baffle straps be trimmed back??
Dave
Tiger N880DM
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GrummanDude
Joined: 15 Jan 2006
Posts: 926
Location: Auburn, CA
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| Posted: Tue May 02, 2006 11:58 pm Post subject: Baffle cutting |
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In a message dated 5/2/06 9:40:38 PM, gilalex(at)earthlink.net writes:
| Quote: | It replaced the twisted wire I previously had - and the parts manual even
shows springs.....
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Springs are OK if you put a 'pop' rivet in the baffle (with the head on the
inside), then punch out the mandrel,then hammer down the tail. If you really
smash it, drill it out with somethin in the 0.060 range. Otherwise, the
constant load on the spring will pull through the aluminum baffle. I like the
twisted Safety wire trick.
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_________________
Gary
AuCountry Aviation
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flyv35b(at)ashcreekwirele
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| Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 4:34 am Post subject: Baffle cutting |
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The safety wire will also pull through the baffle hole in time. 2 holes
drilled about 1/4" apart and threading the wire through both of them will
help. A rivet also works good with safety wire and you can even put a
cotter key through the hole, bend the ears and put the wire through the
cotter key.
Cliff
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