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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
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 Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 10:48 am Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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Hi
As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions for those who know their electrons.
My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel wires of the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a good brand of wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect this will be an ongoing issue.
I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the aft tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back to the firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with following the plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated ground is preferred, is there any issue with gathering grounds to a common point (were practical) and then running a single dedicated ground back to the firewall ground block?
As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way to protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and cracking? My concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold weather but then again this may be a misplaced concern.
On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on my QB wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can remove them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing these screws (WD40 etc)?
Inquiring minds need to know…
Happy New Year
Les #40643 [quote][b]
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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
Guest
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 11:56 am Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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Les, you're liable to get as many different answers as you'd get from a primer question. 
Here are mine.
On 12/31/2010 1:45 PM, Les Kearney wrote: | Quote: | Miscellaneous end of year questions
Hi
As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions for those who know their electrons.
My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel wires of the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a good brand of wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect this will be an ongoing issue. |
I use a single edge razor blade. Just press the razor blade through the insulation, rotate the wire and repeat. With practice you can 'roll' the wire allowing the razor blade to follow the wire without 'sawing'. Depending on your make/model of stripper, you can buy blades that fit your wire size better.
| Quote: |
I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the aft tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back to the firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with following the plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated ground is preferred, is there any issue with gathering grounds to a common point (were practical) and then running a single dedicated ground back to the firewall ground block? |
The common practice among the certified planes is to use the airframe for grounds. Guess where the problems show up? For me, a single ground point is preferable, and on my -10 will be the feed-through on the firewall ..... because I'm running a ground wire along with my power to there. When I have a lot of grounds, like the instrument panel, I'll collect the grounds at a single point (sub-panel) and then connect to the firewall connection. In the tail, I have the battery negative attachment point.
| Quote: |
As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way to protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and cracking? My concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold weather but then again this may be a misplaced concern. |
Not a concern for me.
| Quote: |
On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on my QB wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can remove them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing these screws (WD40 etc)? |
I've not been there yet, but if you have a NEW, high quality #2 phillips screwdriver, you can really lean on the handle while a pair of vise grips apply rotation. I have a couple of brand-name screwdrivers that I only use on difficult screws.
Linn
[quote]
Inquiring minds need to know…
Happy New Year
Les #40643 [b]
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rv10flyer
Joined: 25 Aug 2009
Posts: 364
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 12:18 pm Post subject: Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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I am using Ideal Stripmaster Cat# 45-177 16-26 Ga. Not cheap but they work really well. For larger wires I use a cheap pair from Lowe's. I use single edge razor on rg-400 or #2 ga.
I am grounding everything locally unless specified by mfr otherwise. All my unprimed aluminum should conduct electrons just fine. I am using an alodine pen from SteinAir. I will install forest of tabs behind the panel.
Use nylon wire ties per plans and run your strobe shielded cable(3-16ga) and tail nav lt wire 18 ga inside lower left stiffener. When exiting the stiffiner use a 2-3" piece of spiral wrap. I also use ms clamps/standoff brackets. I also use stick on/rivet on wire tie mounts(ACS). I used heat shrink where it passed through rear bulkhead to go into bottom rundder fairing. I also drilled hole to lower left of vs spar so that vs could be installed and removed while wiring was in place. Deburr hole edges with 320 grit really well. Run spiral wrap around wiring to tail light/strobe if desired. Tefzel wiring is very good and flexible unless your flying in the artic. Try lighting it on fire next to a cheap piece of pvc wiring and note smoke emmitted.
I ran rg-400 and pitch trim cable up right side in same place/same way.
Use a new #2 bit and do it by hand with alot of pressure.
Happy New Year.
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Wayne G. |
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Kellym
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 12:38 pm Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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Les,
Any electrical resistive load like a tail light does NOT need a ground
back to the firewall. They don't generate noise and a local ground is
fine. Only avionics and other noise generators like strobes and motors
need a unified ground.
Kelly
On 12/31/2010 11:45 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
| Quote: |
I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the
aft tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds
back to the firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops)
with following the plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a
dedicated ground is preferred, is there any issue with gathering
grounds to a common point (were practical) and then running a single
dedicated ground back to the firewall ground block?
***
*
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_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD |
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rv10builder(at)verizon.ne
Guest
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 12:41 pm Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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I agree on the points from Linn.
As far as the tight screw.
spray WD-40, let it sit for a while
lightly tap the screwdriver (on the screw) with a hammer to loosen any locktite and help the lube pentrate
than try loosening- did that work?
no?
grab a heat gun and warm up the screw or just the opposite- dry ice, than try again
if that doesn't work, get a impact screw driver. I have never had to get to this point however.
Let us know what worked.
Pascal
From: Linn Walters (pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net)
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 11:52 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions
Les, you're liable to get as many different answers as you'd get from a primer question.
Here are mine.
On 12/31/2010 1:45 PM, Les Kearney wrote: | Quote: |
Hi
As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions for those who know their electrons.
My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel wires of the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a good brand of wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect this will be an ongoing issue. |
I use a single edge razor blade. Just press the razor blade through the insulation, rotate the wire and repeat. With practice you can 'roll' the wire allowing the razor blade to follow the wire without 'sawing'. Depending on your make/model of stripper, you can buy blades that fit your wire size better.
| Quote: |
I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the aft tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back to the firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with following the plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated ground is preferred, is there any issue with gathering grounds to a common point (were practical) and then running a single dedicated ground back to the firewall ground block? |
The common practice among the certified planes is to use the airframe for grounds. Guess where the problems show up? For me, a single ground point is preferable, and on my -10 will be the feed-through on the firewall ..... because I'm running a ground wire along with my power to there. When I have a lot of grounds, like the instrument panel, I'll collect the grounds at a single point (sub-panel) and then connect to the firewall connection. In the tail, I have the battery negative attachment point.
| Quote: |
As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way to protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and cracking? My concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold weather but then again this may be a misplaced concern. |
Not a concern for me.
| Quote: |
On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on my QB wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can remove them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing these screws (WD40 etc)? |
I've not been there yet, but if you have a NEW, high quality #2 phillips screwdriver, you can really lean on the handle while a pair of vise grips apply rotation. I have a couple of brand-name screwdrivers that I only use on difficult screws.
Linn
[quote]
Inquiring minds need to know…
Happy New Year
Les #40643
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
[b]
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Bob Turner
Joined: 03 Jan 2009
Posts: 885
Location: Castro Valley, CA
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 1:10 pm Post subject: Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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I chose to run a separate ground wire for the tail light, along side the power wire, because it goes within a few feet of where I am remote mounting the remote compass, and I wanted to minimize stray magnetic fields. This is probably anal overkill, but that's what I did.
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Bob Turner
RV-10 QB |
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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
Guest
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 1:21 pm Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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On 12/31/2010 3:39 PM, Pascal wrote:
| Quote: | Miscellaneous end of year questions I agree on the points from Linn.
As far as the tight screw.
spray WD-40, let it sit for a while
lightly tap the screwdriver (on the screw) with a hammer to loosen any locktite and help the lube pentrate
than try loosening- did that work?
no?
grab a heat gun and warm up the screw or just the opposite- dry ice, than try again
if that doesn't work, get a impact screw driver.
|
DON"T!!!!! Read that again!!!! The hammer force on an impact driver is enough to deform the structure. Came from experience. 
Linn
[quote] I have never had to get to this point however.
Let us know what worked.
Pascal
From: Linn Walters (pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net)
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 11:52 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions
Les, you're liable to get as many different answers as you'd get from a primer question.
Here are mine.
On 12/31/2010 1:45 PM, Les Kearney wrote: | Quote: |
Hi
As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions for those who know their electrons.
My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel wires of the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a good brand of wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect this will be an ongoing issue. |
I use a single edge razor blade. Just press the razor blade through the insulation, rotate the wire and repeat. With practice you can 'roll' the wire allowing the razor blade to follow the wire without 'sawing'. Depending on your make/model of stripper, you can buy blades that fit your wire size better.
| Quote: |
I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the aft tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back to the firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with following the plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated ground is preferred, is there any issue with gathering grounds to a common point (were practical) and then running a single dedicated ground back to the firewall ground block? |
The common practice among the certified planes is to use the airframe for grounds. Guess where the problems show up? For me, a single ground point is preferable, and on my -10 will be the feed-through on the firewall ..... because I'm running a ground wire along with my power to there. When I have a lot of grounds, like the instrument panel, I'll collect the grounds at a single point (sub-panel) and then connect to the firewall connection. In the tail, I have the battery negative attachment point.
| Quote: |
As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way to protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and cracking? My concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold weather but then again this may be a misplaced concern. |
Not a concern for me.
| Quote: |
On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on my QB wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can remove them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing these screws (WD40 etc)? |
I've not been there yet, but if you have a NEW, high quality #2 phillips screwdriver, you can really lean on the handle while a pair of vise grips apply rotation. I have a couple of brand-name screwdrivers that I only use on difficult screws.
Linn
[b]
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dave.saylor.aircrafters(a
Guest
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 1:26 pm Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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I use a couple schemes for running wires into the control surfaces.
Other planes have servos in the elevators and ailerons. I use the
same techniques for them.
If you don't have much distance to work with, you can wrap a foot or
so of tefzel wire tightly around a pencil to make your own coiled
wire. The coil tends to spread out the flexing.
Another way to accomplish the same thing is to run the wire as far as
possible in the direction of the hinge line. A foot or more is ideal.
Secure the wire outside the stern post and the rudder spar, so any
motion happens as twist around the long axis of the wire.
A little dab of valve grinding compound on the tip of a screwdriver
works magic on super-tight screws. It really makes the bit grab the
screw without slipping and damaging the screw.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 95076
831-722-9141 Shop
831-750-0284 Cell
On Fri, Dec 31, 2010 at 12:39 PM, Pascal <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> wrote:
| Quote: | I agree on the points from Linn.
As far as the tight screw.
spray WD-40, let it sit for a while
lightly tap the screwdriver (on the screw) with a hammer to loosen any
locktite and help the lube pentrate
than try loosening- did that work?
no?
grab a heat gun and warm up the screw or just the opposite- dry ice, than
try again
if that doesn't work, get a impact screw driver. I have never had to get to
this point however.
Let us know what worked.
Pascal
From: Linn Walters
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 11:52 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions
Les, you're liable to get as many different answers as you'd get from a
primer question.Â
Here are mine.
On 12/31/2010 1:45 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
Hi
As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions for
those who know their electrons.
My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel wires of
the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a good brand of
wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect this will be an
ongoing issue.
I use a single edge razor blade. Just press the razor blade through the
insulation, rotate the wire and repeat. With practice you can 'roll' the
wire allowing the razor blade to follow the wire without 'sawing'.
Depending on your make/model of stripper, you can buy blades that fit your
wire size better.
I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the aft
tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back to the
firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with following the
plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated ground is preferred,
is there any issue with gathering grounds to a common point (were practical)
and then running a single dedicated ground back to the firewall ground
block?
The common practice among the certified planes is to use the airframe for
grounds. Guess where the problems show up? For me, a single ground point
is preferable, and on my -10 will be the feed-through on the firewall .....
because I'm running a ground wire along with my power to there. When I have
a lot of grounds, like the instrument panel, I'll collect the grounds at a
single point (sub-panel) and then connect to the firewall connection. In
the tail, I have the battery negative attachment point.
As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way to
protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and cracking? My
concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold weather but then
again this may be a misplaced concern.
Not a concern for me.
On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on my QB
wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can remove
them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing these
screws (WD40 etc)?
I've not been there yet, but if you have a NEW, high quality #2 phillips
screwdriver, you can really lean on the handle while a pair of vise grips
apply rotation. I have a couple of brand-name screwdrivers that I only use
on difficult screws.
Linn
Inquiring minds need to know…
Happy New Year
Les #40643
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
|
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Tim Olson
Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2881
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 1:35 pm Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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I have had a few good strippers over the years.
(geez, maybe I shouldn't say that in public?  )
Right now, my main sets are 2 of these IDEAL T-Strippers.
(also see attached)
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?num=10&hl=en&newwindow=1&q=ideal+T+stripper&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=395400644739097984&ei=I0YeTeuAE5O6ngeMwbz8DQ&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDQQ8wIwAg#
It's nice because it covers most every gauge that you'll use
in the build, from I think 8 to 26 stranded. It's also very
cheap, and available locally.
It's not the only brand that's good, I'm sure there are dozens.
But, when you find one you like, buy 2....keep one for the
long term. The most important thing is to have one that's
well made and sharp.
Tefzel strips wonderfully. To strip the shielded stuff I
just spin the wire in the blades and bend it to crack the
groove and then pull off the sheath. The wires strip
normally, with no issue. Done a bunch of wires lately.
On your grounding question, for non-noisy loads like those
lights, you can basically do it however you want and you
won't have a problem.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 12/31/2010 12:45 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
| Quote: | Hi
As I embark on a new adventure - wiring, I have a couple of questions
for those who know their electrons.
My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel wires
of the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a good
brand of wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect this
will be an ongoing issue.
I notice in the plans (OP37-16) that the tail light ground is on the aft
tail cone F1012 bulkhead. My plan was to run dedicated grounds back to
the firewall ground block. Is there any issue (ground loops) with
following the plans? Is a dedicated ground preferable? If a dedicated
ground is preferred, is there any issue with gathering grounds to a
common point (were practical) and then running a single dedicated ground
back to the firewall ground block?
As I run wires to the rudder (as per the pans), what is the best way to
protect these wires from the elements, prevent chaffing and cracking? My
concern is that these wires may lose flexibility in cold weather but
then again this may be a misplaced concern.
On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on my
QB wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can
remove them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing
these screws (WD40 etc)?
Inquiring minds need to know…
Happy New Year
Les #40643
*
============
|
com>
uildersbooks.com>
lp.com>
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============
============
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davidsoutpost(at)comcast.
Guest
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 3:13 pm Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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I use a thermal wire striper for striping wire. They are a bit expensive but you can sometimes find one on eBay for a decent price. No worries of nicking wires with these: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=stripall+wire+stripers&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=P4T&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=ivns&resnum=3&biw=1366&bih=587&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=1185846266203347523&sa=X&ei=WGAeTaqzEcj9nAfi2qz_DQ&ved=0CEsQ8gIwAQ#
Do yourself a favor and order a couple hundred of the SS Torx drive 100* screws from these guys,,,,,,no more fooling around with stripped Phillips head screws: http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/standard.cfm?Category=SSC&SubCategory=FCMXS
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
---
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bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.
Guest
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 5:57 pm Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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Just out of curiosity, why are you taking the tanks out? I'm afraid I am going to have to take mine out as they are leaking from the outlet port and the sealant is getting real gummy. They are also quick built.
From: "davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net" <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Fri, December 31, 2010 4:10:34 PM
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions
p {margin:0;} I use a thermal wire striper for striping wire. They are a bit expensive but you can sometimes find one on eBay for a decent price. No worries of nicking wires with these: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=stripall+wire+stripers&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=P4T&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=ivns&resnum=3&biw=1366&bih=587&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=1185846266203347523&sa=X&ei=WGAeTaqzEcj9nAfi2qz_DQ&ved=0CEsQ8gIwAQ#
Do yourself a favor and order a couple hundred of the SS Torx drive 100* screws from these guys,,,,,,no more fooling around with stripped Phillips head screws: http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/standard.cfm?Category=SSC&SubCategory=FCMXS
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
65% Done-95% To Go
N849RV (reserved)
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dlm34077(at)q.com
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 6:49 pm Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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Are your passengers standing on any part of the tank when loading/unloading?
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bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 9:25 pm Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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Not really, I am still flying my 40 off. They started leaking as soon as I started filling the tanks full.
From: DLM <dlm34077(at)q.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Fri, December 31, 2010 7:46:25 PM
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions
 DIV { MARGIN:0px;} Are your passengers standing on any part of the tank when loading/unloading?
[quote] ---
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dlm34077(at)q.com
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| Posted: Fri Dec 31, 2010 9:45 pm Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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did you remove one/both? of them to install stall warning? My QBs stayed on; I never removed them. send me a phone number; I will be back home tomorrow afternoon.
[quote] ---
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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
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| Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 7:42 am Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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Hi Bruce
I want to inspect / flush the tankxs for leaks before I start flying (and wing install). It would seem this would be easier and more effective with the tanks off.
Cheers
Les
#40643
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Johnson
Sent: December-31-10 10:22 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions
Not really, I am still flying my 40 off. They started leaking as soon as I started filling the tanks full.
From: DLM <dlm34077(at)q.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Fri, December 31, 2010 7:46:25 PM
Subject: Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions
 DIV { MARGIN: 0px } Are your passengers standing on any part of the tank when loading/unloading?
[quote] ---
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dlm34077(at)q.com
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| Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 7:59 am Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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If the tanks/wings were QB and tested by Vans, why take them off now before flight and risk causing a leak. tanks can be removed after wing installation; hence after phase I if necessary. I flushed with mineral spirits to get the bits of proseal out and flew. No leaks or clogs after 375 hours. Only two tiny specks in the fuel filter screen when checked at 300 hours.
[quote] ---
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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
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| Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 8:02 am Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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Hi Wayne
Thanks for the detailed wire run info. I like how you have allowed for the
removal of the vertical stab. It sounds like the best plan for me is to use
Dave Saylor's "coil" method (thanks Dave) and skip the spiral wrap. I have
flown in -15c and I suspect the spiral wrap would become brittle and break
at that temperature.
Cheers & Happy New Year
Les
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rv10flyer
Joined: 25 Aug 2009
Posts: 364
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| Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 9:19 am Post subject: Re: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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Dave has some good ideas there. Thank you. Going to visit you someday out there.
Kearney, A single wire or even a few might do fine doing the coil method, but I installed the Whelen gray cable(3- 16ga w/shield) and there is no way to coil that without removing the outer jacket/shield.
You won't have to worry about the spiral wrap anywhere we fly. We used this on many military aircraft.
My spiral wrap specs: PTFE (TFE, Polytetrafluoroethylene) -450 °F to +500 °F. Chemically inert and non-flammable. Standard color is Natural. Black and other colors available.
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_________________
Wayne G. |
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Kelly McMullen
Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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| Posted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 10:42 am Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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There is nothing about the remove/reinstall process that will influence whether the tanks leak or don't. None of the attach hardware penetrates the sealed area.
On Sat, Jan 1, 2011 at 8:55 AM, DLM <dlm34077(at)q.com (dlm34077(at)q.com)> wrote:
[quote] If the tanks/wings were QB and tested by Vans, why take them off now before flight and risk causing a leak. tanks can be removed after wing installation; hence after phase I if necessary. I flushed with mineral spirits to get the bits of proseal out and flew. No leaks or clogs after 375 hours. Only two tiny specks in the fuel filter screen when checked at 300 hours.
[quote] ---
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_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD |
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Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
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| Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 2:08 pm Post subject: Miscellaneous end of year questions |
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2 more observations....
| Quote: | Miscellaneous end of year questions
My wire strippers don't seen to work very well on the fine Tefzel wires of the RayAllen servos. Can anyone give me the name / model of a good brand of wire strippers that will handle these wires? I suspect this will be an ongoing issue. |
I had the same problem with the RayAllen wires using my no-name grip and strip type stripper. They were the only 24-26 gauge wires on the project. My strippers worked very well on every other (larger) gauge wire. The wires on the RayAllens are too thin is my thought.
| Quote: | | On the mechanical side, I am stumped over how to remove the tanks on my QB wings. The screws seem to be very well set and I don't think I can remove them without stripping the heads. Is there any trick to removing these screws (WD40 etc)? |
Had the same problem with my QB tanks. What I found was that all phillips head drivers are not the same. Using my Craftsman drivers, I could only maul them. My neighbor cut some old drivers he had and welded on T-handles. The extra leverage seemed to help and I was able to remove one tank. On the second tank I accidentally picked up a rusty long shaft Enderes driver and found I could remove the screws without mauling them. I ended up buying a set of Enderes drivers - they are good but no magic. That particular rusty, long shaft driver is just particularly good.
http://everything2.com/title/The+Perfect+Screwdriver?bookmark_nonce=114f7664880ed9680ced7d19b5bf6a73&bookmark_id=883913&bookmark_seed=871591566.59759&op=bookmark
But all Phillips drivers are not equal. Try some different ones.
I'm not sure removing the tanks was such a good idea since all I did was air/balloon test them. If they leak with fluid in them, they will have to come off again. However, I did remove the screws for painting so it will look good if they do come off.
I really enjoyed the wiring - one of my favorite parts of the build.
Bill "waiting for warmer painting weather" Watson
[quote][b]
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