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jjessen
Joined: 22 Apr 2006
Posts: 285
Location: OR
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 Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 4:44 pm Post subject: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole) |
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Thanks, everyone, for helping out on the errant hole problem. I'm going to
take a picture of the skin holes and give you a look at that after I deburr
the best hole.
In the meantime, has anyone documented in a step-by-step procedure to back
rivet the Tailcone? I've visited a couple of web sites, but haven't found
one that basically holds one's hand through the process and documents the
"gotchas" along the way. I'll try to document the procedure on my web site,
unless it's been done elsewhere.
Again, thanks.
John Jessen
328 tailcone
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ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.
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| Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 7:31 pm Post subject: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole) |
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John,
There is no rocket science to building the TC. I back rivetted all the bottom and side skins solo. Careful positioning of the back rivet plate and judicious use of some wooden wedges to position the TC is all I used. It obviously took much longer solo than with a partner - but it can be done. I only used a partner to help with the top skin and I am delighted with the way the whole thing came out.
The only gotchas I can think of:
a. some rivets will require an offset back rivet set as John G. has pointed out.
b. check that the bulkhead flanges lay flat against the skin - back riveting helps this automatically (if you use the spring/collar back rivet set). Otherwise use the eraser trick I posted the other day to snug the flange to the skin
c. it is possible to backrivet those rivets that sit under the J Channel. I used a hardware store hex head bolt with the head polished and part of the bolt shaft ground out. With the rivet backed on the plate, hit the bolt firmly with a solid hammer a few times for a perfect rivet. Picture attached.
good luck
Ron
#187 fuse - about to start the lid.
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jjessen
Joined: 22 Apr 2006
Posts: 285
Location: OR
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| Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 8:14 pm Post subject: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole) |
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What a great idea for driving those specific rivets! Innovation at its best. Thanks, Ron and John G.
John Jessen
328 Tailcone
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 8:30 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole)
John,
There is no rocket science to building the TC. I back rivetted all the bottom and side skins solo. Careful positioning of the back rivet plate and judicious use of some wooden wedges to position the TC is all I used. It obviously took much longer solo than with a partner - but it can be done. I only used a partner to help with the top skin and I am delighted with the way the whole thing came out.
The only gotchas I can think of:
a. some rivets will require an offset back rivet set as John G. has pointed out.
b. check that the bulkhead flanges lay flat against the skin - back riveting helps this automatically (if you use the spring/collar back rivet set). Otherwise use the eraser trick I posted the other day to snug the flange to the skin
c. it is possible to backrivet those rivets that sit under the J Channel. I used a hardware store hex head bolt with the head polished and part of the bolt shaft ground out. With the rivet backed on the plate, hit the bolt firmly with a solid hammer a few times for a perfect rivet. Picture attached.
good luck
Ron
#187 fuse - about to start the lid.
--
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http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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armywrights(at)adelphia.n
Guest
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| Posted: Wed May 03, 2006 8:46 pm Post subject: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole) |
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Some of the innovation ($time$) may have been used elsewhere. Unless my backrivet set is directly on the rivet, the rivet will slide to one side of the nylon insert and only set half the diameter of the rivet, which looks kinda weird! I just began using my non-swivel mushroom set for my back riveting. With the larger surface area it’s not really any harder to keep the set on the rivet, and it fits wonderfully under J channels.
Rob
#392
Priming bare steel parts on QB Fuse/Wings
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 11:12 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole)
What a great idea for driving those specific rivets! Innovation at its best. Thanks, Ron and John G.
John Jessen
328 Tailcone
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 8:30 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole)
John,
There is no rocket science to building the TC. I back rivetted all the bottom and side skins solo. Careful positioning of the back rivet plate and judicious use of some wooden wedges to position the TC is all I used. It obviously took much longer solo than with a partner - but it can be done. I only used a partner to help with the top skin and I am delighted with the way the whole thing came out.
The only gotchas I can think of:
a. some rivets will require an offset back rivet set as John G. has pointed out.
b. check that the bulkhead flanges lay flat against the skin - back riveting helps this automatically (if you use the spring/collar back rivet set). Otherwise use the eraser trick I posted the other day to snug the flange to the skin
c. it is possible to backrivet those rivets that sit under the J Channel. I used a hardware store hex head bolt with the head polished and part of the bolt shaft ground out. With the rivet backed on the plate, hit the bolt firmly with a solid hammer a few times for a perfect rivet. Picture attached.
good luck
Ron
#187 fuse - about to start the lid.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)]On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, 4 May 2006 10:12 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole)
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Thanks, everyone, for helping out on the errant hole problem. I'm going to
take a picture of the skin holes and give you a look at that after I deburr
the best hole.
In the meantime, has anyone documented in a step-by-step procedure to back
rivet the Tailcone? I've visited a couple of web sites, but haven't found
one that basically holds one's hand through the process and documents the
"gotchas" along the way. I'll try to document the procedure on my web site,
unless it's been done elsewhere.
Again, thanks.
John Jessen
328 tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 3:49 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Deems, thanks. I think that the problem I'm staring at is that if I do
anything to either hole in the skin, the tiny amount of metal between the
two holes will break through. I might try John G's suggestion of a metal
epoxy, which I've never heard about before this. Van's said that one rivet
will not be missed, so I think as long as the holes are deburred, if I can
even do that, so they don't split, then I might epoxy the skin to the tab at
that point and hope it holds.
John J 328
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 2:19 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
John, put a doubler of the same (or slightly larger material behind the
correct hole (make it match the size of the double drilled tab) . match
drill it and then use a longer rivet when it comes time to rivet. you could
also consider all of the above and drill for a larger opps rivet.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
browse Subscriptions page, Chat, FAQ,
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