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Brass bus bar
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 8:09 am Post subject: Brass bus bar

 	  Quote: 	
		  I really recommend configuring wiring so as to not need a bus bar.


	


    Not sure what this means. In the classic sense, a

    bus bar is a solid conductor distribution point from

    which multiple branch feeds are taken. The strip of

    conductor behind rows of breakers on the panel is

    a "bus". The strip of conductor down the center of

    a multiple slot fuse holder is a "bus".



    But when you want to connect two closely spaced

    studs together, like on a pair of contactors with

    bar stock, that's a rectangular wire. I can deduce

    no value in designing "not to need a bus bar."

    They are used wherever they present the elegant

    solution for minimizing parts count.



 	  Quote: 	
		  Factoids: Gold is good for low corrosion and its resulting low 

resistance. But it only makes sense for very low voltages/currents.


	


     The only time gold has a 'voltage/current' significance

     is in the use of gold for switching. The very best

     switches and relays for switching tiny signal

     levels feature gold plated contacts. But gold

     is easily eroded away if the wattage levels

     in the switch circuit get very high. We generally

     limit the use gold switches and relays in the tens

     of milliamps and tens of volts range. See:



http://www.aeroelectric.com/Reference_Docs/Microswitch/



 	  Quote: 	
		    You might think gold might would be a great conductor, but it isn't.


	


    But it's not "bad" either. The conductivity

    of gold is relatively insignificant because

    nobody makes either wire or bus bars out of gold.

    They do PLATE certain conductors with gold for

    the purpose of minimizing surface corrosion

    . . . the layers are so thin as to add no

    significant resistance to the joint.

 	  Quote: 	
		  Factoid: Copper and other metals works even if oxidized


	


    ??? Don't know what "works" means. Every material

    and the manner in which joints are made with other

    materials will drive system performance. If the

    materials are particularly reactive with each other

    and with oxygen in the presence of moisture, performance

    levels will degrade with time.



    It's true that the observable surfaces of conductors

    can be severely corroded without observable

    performance issues . . . this happens because

    the metal-to-metal interface between components

    is sealed from the environment . . . i.e. GAS

    TIGHT.



    So whether your "rectangular wires" of choice

    are copper, aluminum or brass, both initial

    and future performance is dependent upon maintaining

    gas-tightness of the joint either by exemplary

    craftsmanship on assembly, periodic maintenance

    later or both.



 	  Quote: 	
		    so keep those connections clean and tight.


	


    Hear, HEAR!!!!

   Bob . . .

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fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 9:10 pm Post subject: Brass bus bar

Wow,



I had no idea what a lively discussion my original question would initiate.

I have learned much but not the answer to the original question. Maybe it is

less important than the sum of all the new knowledge in my old noggin.



OK, I understand that my electrician friend's advice about using stainless

bar stock with the stainless terminals is not ideal for aircraft.  I still

have not found 1/8" copper bar stock locally and really don't want to ship

it.



What about using some 1/2" copper plumbing pipe, hammer flatten each end of

it's 3" length, drill mounting holes as required and bolt it in?



By the way, the current going through this bar stock connector will max out

at about 55amp under max (everything on) load and is protected by the 60 amp

ANL fuse, to which it is connected.



Bevan



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henador_titzoff(at)yahoo.
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 3:16 am Post subject: Brass bus bar

Wow,

If you cannot find copper bus bar at your location and you do NOT want to have it shipped in, then your obvious solution is to use Roger/Jean Curtis' solution.  He/she said that they flattened 3/8" soft copper tubing in a vise, and it works great!

Problem solved.

 

Henador Titzoff



From: B Tomm <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net>

To:  aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com

Sent: Wednesday, June 8, 2011 1:07 AM

Subject: RE: Re: Brass bus bar



 --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "B Tomm" <fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net (fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net)>



Wow,



I had no idea what a lively discussion my original question would initiate.

I have learned much but not the answer to the original question. Maybe it is

less important than the sum of all the new knowledge in my old noggin.



OK, I understand that my electrician friend's advice about using stainless

bar stock with the stainless terminals is not ideal for aircraft.  I still

have not found 1/8" copper bar stock locally and really don't want to ship

it.



What about using some 1/2" copper plumbing pipe, hammer flatten each end of

it's 3" length, drill mounting holes as required and bolt it in?



By the way, the current going through this bar stock connector will max out

at about 55amp under max (everything on) load and is protected by the  60 amp

ANL fuse, to which it is connected.



Bevan



--

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william_slaughter(at)att.
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:35 am Post subject: Brass bus bar

I used a sheet of copper stock and cut the strips I needed from it.

Available at hardware stores and hobby shops. Google K&S to find info. Storm

Copper has everything you can imagine if you decide that you can order it in

after all.



William



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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:37 am Post subject: Brass bus bar

OK, I understand that my electrician friend's advice about using stainless

bar stock with the stainless terminals is not ideal for aircraft.  I still

have not found 1/8" copper bar stock locally and really don't want to ship

it.



    1/8" is 'hefty' to your task



What about using some 1/2" copper plumbing pipe, hammer flatten each end of

it's 3" length, drill mounting holes as required and bolt it in?



    That would work too but kind'a  . . . well . . .

    not very graceful. That piece of pipe would be good

    for hundreds of amps . . .



By the way, the current going through this bar stock connector will max out

at about 55amp under max (everything on) load and is protected by the 60 amp

ANL fuse, to which it is connected.



    For that connection consider using aluminum. .062",

    or so, 3/4" wide. Brighten up the interfacing surfaces before

    installation. Maybe use some dielectric grease

    on those same surfaces (Permatx 67VR or equal

    at hardware or automotive parts stores). Torque

    the fasteners well.



    Bob . . .

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flyboy494

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 10

Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:28 pm Post subject: Brass bus bar

Bevan,



You might try going to an electrical contractor or electrical supply

house and see if they have any scrap electrical panels.  A 200A or 400A

panel should have 1/8" thick copper bus bars in it.



Good Luck



Kent



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