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J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

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jd(at)lawsonimaging.ca
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 7:41 am Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

On 06/18/2011 07:20 PM, James, Clive R wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   It's the unexplained change that makes J's problem so difficult when you bear in mind 

 the extensive testing and inspection that has eliminated everything it could be.




	


First, I pulled my cowling and right side plugs, and I'm happy to report that #3's plugs 

are a gorgeous tan colour, same as #1's and #5s.

Can't say that the 100LL actually fixed anything, more that the Shell mogas aggravated the 

issue (whatever it actually is).



You know Clive, I've been trying hard to link this issue to *something* I may have done 

during my 100 hour inspection/annual, since I

learned long ago that when troubleshooting just about anything, from computer programs to 

engines, to look back to what was changed last.



So far, I haven't been able to establish any such link, but the mention of the diverter 

got me thinking and looking. During the recent work I did, one

thing that I changer was the location of an adel clamp that supports an oil line than runs 

just under the carb. It;s new location makes use

of the same bolt that affixes that diverter. Looking inside with a mirror, I can't really 

tell if it got canted at all when I removed and

replaced it's bolt, and I haven't yet disassembled the diverter to see if it actually 

*can* physically twist, but maybe, just maybe, that's

what happened. Not sure why just the center cylinder in the bank would show the effect, 

but that's probably a fluid dynamics exercise ;')



Anyway, I'm thinking to make the diverter change you mentioned, but so far have not found 

the article/SB. I've checked the SBs on jabiru.net.au, but don't

find it there. If anyone can provide me a link to that information, and/or experienced 

instructions, I'd appreciate it. Thanks, as always.



-- 



Regards,  J.



- Sonex #325 C-FJNJ, Jab 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb

- former C-IGGY CH701 owner/builder, CH750 in progress

- see both (and more!) at http://cleco.ca



-----------------------------

J. Davis, M.Sc. (comp sci)

email: jd at lawsonimaging.ca

*NIX consulting, SysAdmin

http://cleco.ca

I was reading the dictionary.  I thought it was a poem

about everything.

				--- Steven Wright

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 9:15 am Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

It's VERY highly unlikely that loosening that bolt, or even removing  

it completely would allow the diverter to get out of place....that  

is, if it's anything like the "manifold" that WAS in my 2200. In the  

2200, the manifold halves are machined to accept the shape (teardrop)  

of that diverter, and unless you had *all* of the manifold-attaching  

bolts loosened by at least 1/8", the diverter would stay in place.  

That is, IF the 3300 uses the same *type* of machining that the 2200  

does/did. But as we all know, or should know by now, Jabiru makes  

changes without consulting me (that's a joke, for those humor- 

challenged folks out there), and the newer engines could be different  

from what mine was.



Lynn Matteson

Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger

Jabiru 2200, #2062

Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while

Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade

Electroair direct-fire ignition system

Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)

Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since  

3-27-2006)

On Jun 19, 2011, at 11:37 AM, j. davis wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 <jd(at)lawsonimaging.ca>



 On 06/18/2011 07:20 PM, James, Clive R wrote:

> It's the unexplained change that makes J's problem so difficult  

> when you bear in mind the extensive testing and inspection that  

> has eliminated everything it could be.

>



 First, I pulled my cowling and right side plugs, and I'm happy to  

 report that #3's plugs are a gorgeous tan colour, same as #1's and  

 #5s.

 Can't say that the 100LL actually fixed anything, more that the  

 Shell mogas aggravated the issue (whatever it actually is).



 You know Clive, I've been trying hard to link this issue to  

 *something* I may have done during my 100 hour inspection/annual,  

 since I

 learned long ago that when troubleshooting just about anything,  

 from computer programs to engines, to look back to what was changed  

 last.



 So far, I haven't been able to establish any such link, but the  

 mention of the diverter got me thinking and looking. During the  

 recent work I did, one

 thing that I changer was the location of an adel clamp that  

 supports an oil line than runs just under the carb. It;s new  

 location makes use

 of the same bolt that affixes that diverter. Looking inside with a  

 mirror, I can't really tell if it got canted at all when I removed and

 replaced it's bolt, and I haven't yet disassembled the diverter to  

 see if it actually *can* physically twist, but maybe, just maybe,  

 that's

 what happened. Not sure why just the center cylinder in the bank  

 would show the effect, but that's probably a fluid dynamics  

 exercise ;')



 Anyway, I'm thinking to make the diverter change you mentioned, but  

 so far have not found the article/SB. I've checked the SBs on  

 jabiru.net.au, but don't

 find it there. If anyone can provide me a link to that information,  

 and/or experienced instructions, I'd appreciate it. Thanks, as always.



 -- 



 Regards,  J.



 - Sonex #325 C-FJNJ, Jab 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb

 - former C-IGGY CH701 owner/builder, CH750 in progress

 - see both (and more!) at http://cleco.ca

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

jd(at)lawsonimaging.ca
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 10:42 am Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

On 06/19/2011 01:12 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 It's VERY highly unlikely that loosening that bolt, or even removing it completely would 

 allow the diverter to get out of place....that is, if it's anything like the "manifold" 

 that WAS in my 2200.


	


Oh, OK, haven't actually taken it apart yet, so I'll take your word for it. Do you happen 

to know any details of the 1/2" ring/tube/rod

mod? Realistically, I'll prolly just put the carb back on and experiment with tilting it 

slightly off vertical, but the divider mod is

intriguing...



Thanks, Lynn.



 	  Quote: 	
		   In the 2200, the manifold halves are machined to accept the shape (teardrop) of that 

 diverter, and unless you had *all* of the manifold-attaching bolts loosened by at least 

 1/8", the diverter would stay in place. That is, IF the 3300 uses the same *type* of 

 machining that the 2200 does/did. But as we all know, or should know by now, Jabiru 

 makes changes without consulting me (that's a joke, for those humor-challenged folks out 

 there), and the newer engines could be different from what mine was.



 Lynn Matteson

 Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger

 Jabiru 2200, #2062

 Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while

 Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade

 Electroair direct-fire ignition system

 Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)

 Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since 3-27-2006)

 On Jun 19, 2011, at 11:37 AM, j. davis wrote:



> 

>

> On 06/18/2011 07:20 PM, James, Clive R wrote:

>> It's the unexplained change that makes J's problem so difficult when you bear in mind 

>> the extensive testing and inspection that has eliminated everything it could be.

>>

>

> First, I pulled my cowling and right side plugs, and I'm happy to report that #3's 

> plugs are a gorgeous tan colour, same as #1's and #5s.

> Can't say that the 100LL actually fixed anything, more that the Shell mogas aggravated 

> the issue (whatever it actually is).

>

> You know Clive, I've been trying hard to link this issue to *something* I may have done 

> during my 100 hour inspection/annual, since I

> learned long ago that when troubleshooting just about anything, from computer programs 

> to engines, to look back to what was changed last.

>

> So far, I haven't been able to establish any such link, but the mention of the diverter 

> got me thinking and looking. During the recent work I did, one

> thing that I changed was the location of an adel clamp that supports an oil line than 

> runs just under the carb. It's new location makes use

> of the same bolt that affixes that diverter. Looking inside with a mirror, I can't 

> really tell if it got canted at all when I removed and

> replaced it's bolt, and I haven't yet disassembled the diverter to see if it actually 

> *can* physically twist, but maybe, just maybe, that's

> what happened. Not sure why just the center cylinder in the bank would show the effect, 

> but that's probably a fluid dynamics exercise ;')

>

> Anyway, I'm thinking to make the diverter change you mentioned, but so far have not 

> found the article/SB. I've checked the SBs on jabiru.net.au, but don't

> find it there. If anyone can provide me a link to that information, and/or experienced 

> instructions, I'd appreciate it. Thanks, as always.

>

> -- 

>

> Regards,  J.

>

> - Sonex #325 C-FJNJ, Jab 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb

> - former C-IGGY CH701 owner/builder, CH750 in progress

> - see both (and more!) at http://cleco.ca

-- 
	


Regards,  J.



- Sonex #325 C-FJNJ, Jab 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb

- former C-IGGY CH701 owner/builder, CH750 in progress

- see both (and more!) at http://cleco.ca



-----------------------------

J. Davis, M.Sc. (comp sci)

email: jd at lawsonimaging.ca

*NIX consulting, SysAdmin

http://cleco.ca

Winny and I lived in a house that ran on static

electricity...  If you wanted to run the blender, you had

to rub balloons on your head.

				--- Steven Wright

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 2:50 am Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

I talked to Pete a couple of years ago, and he said that Jabiru had  

played with different shapes for that diverter...round, square,  

teardrop, etc., and finally settled on the teardrop. But later  

stories have had people having success with the round one. I have my  

old manifold in the shop, just measured it, and you have to split the  

manifold by about 90 thousandths in order to get the diverter out.  

Mine is 1.337" long, and is threaded .988" deep. It doesn't  have to  

be threaded that deep, just deep enough to accept the length of the  

1/4-20 cap screw that holds it in place. On my manifold, the screw  

goes only into the diverter piece...not through it and into the other/ 

upper side of the manifold. The diameter of the tube/rod would have  

to be 0.472" give or take a thou or two, in order to sit into the  

seat that is machined into the manifold.

The manifold halves are aligned with approx. 1/16" diameter dowel  

pins....maybe they are 1.5-2 mm's....not sure of this because I  

didn't pull the manifold completely apart just now. It would be kinda  

tricky getting the manifold apart while it is still on the engine,  

but it could be done if you were careful. Whatever you do, don't try  

sticking a screwdriver into the split around the manifold, because  

you'll bugger up the machined surfaces. It seems to me like it would  

be better to remove the manifold and intake tube lower sections in  

oder to do the job right, because you have to replace the o-rings,  

and scrape off all the sealer that has been applied around the intake  

tubes...at least it was applied on my engine.

Lynn Matteson

Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger

Jabiru 2200, #2062

Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while

Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade

Electroair direct-fire ignition system

Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)

Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since  

3-27-2006)

On Jun 19, 2011, at 2:38 PM, j. davis wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 <jd(at)lawsonimaging.ca>

 On 06/19/2011 01:12 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:

> 

> <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

>

> It's VERY highly unlikely that loosening that bolt, or even  

> removing it completely would allow the diverter to get out of  

> place....that is, if it's anything like the "manifold" that WAS in  

> my 2200.

 Oh, OK, haven't actually taken it apart yet, so I'll take your word  

 for it. Do you happen to know any details of the 1/2" ring/tube/rod

 mod? Realistically, I'll prolly just put the carb back on and  

 experiment with tilting it slightly off vertical, but the divider  

 mod is

 intriguing...

 Thanks, Lynn.

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

jd(at)lawsonimaging.ca
Guest

Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 5:14 am Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

On 06/20/2011 06:47 AM, Lynn Matteson wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I talked to Pete a couple of years ago, and he said that Jabiru had played with 

 different shapes for that diverter...round, square, teardrop, etc., and finally settled 

 on the teardrop. But later stories have had people having success with the round one. I 

 have my old manifold in the shop, just measured it, and you have to split the manifold 

 by about 90 thousandths in order to get the diverter out. Mine is 1.337" long, and is 

 threaded .988" deep. It doesn't  have to be threaded that deep, just deep enough to 

 accept the length of the 1/4-20 cap screw that holds it in place. On my manifold, the 

 screw goes only into the diverter piece...not through it and into the other/upper side 

 of the manifold. The diameter of the tube/rod would have to be 0.472" give or take a 

 thou or two, in order to sit into the seat that is machined into the manifold.

 The manifold halves are aligned with approx. 1/16" diameter dowel pins....maybe they are 

 1.5-2 mm's....not sure of this because I didn't pull the manifold completely apart just 

 now. It would be kinda tricky getting the manifold apart while it is still on the 

 engine, but it could be done if you were careful. Whatever you do, don't try sticking a 

 screwdriver into the split around the manifold, because you'll bugger up the machined 

 surfaces. It seems to me like it would be better to remove the manifold and intake tube 

 lower sections in oder to do the job right, because you have to replace the o-rings, and 

 scrape off all the sealer that has been applied around the intake tubes...at least it 

 was applied on my engine.




	


Thanks, Lynn. Sounds like a bigger job than I had in mind. Think I'll wait on that, play 

with tilting the carb slightly.



BTW, my Prince P-Tip is P54AT60K



-- 

Regards,  J.



- Sonex #325 C-FJNJ, Jab 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb

- former C-IGGY CH701 owner/builder, CH750 in progress

- see both (and more!) at http://cleco.ca



-----------------------------

J. Davis, M.Sc. (comp sci)

email: jd at lawsonimaging.ca

*NIX consulting, SysAdmin

http://cleco.ca

I watched the Indy 500, and I was thinking that if they

left earlier they wouldn't have to go so fast.

				--- Steven Wright

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 7:11 am Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

Yes, changing out the diverter would involve a bit of work.

On tilting/rotating the carb, I made up a small pointer and attached  

it to the spider as I recall, then made a mark on the top of the carb  

at the starting point. This way I could tell exactly where I started  

from, and where I was going to, with respect to carb rotation. It  

doesn't take much, and without a "fix" it's hard to tell where you are.



Thanks for the prop specs....my friend has a Waiex w/3300 Jab, and  

his is 54 x 64 Sensenich.



Lynn Matteson

Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger

Jabiru 2200, #2062

Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while

Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade

Electroair direct-fire ignition system

Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)

Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since  

3-27-2006)



On Jun 20, 2011, at 9:10 AM, j. davis wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 <jd(at)lawsonimaging.ca>



 On 06/20/2011 06:47 AM, Lynn Matteson wrote:

> 

> <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

>

> I talked to Pete a couple of years ago, and he said that Jabiru  

> had played with different shapes for that diverter...round,  

> square, teardrop, etc., and finally settled on the teardrop. But  

> later stories have had people having success with the round one. I  

> have my old manifold in the shop, just measured it, and you have  

> to split the manifold by about 90 thousandths in order to get the  

> diverter out. Mine is 1.337" long, and is threaded .988" deep. It  

> doesn't  have to be threaded that deep, just deep enough to accept  

> the length of the 1/4-20 cap screw that holds it in place. On my  

> manifold, the screw goes only into the diverter piece...not  

> through it and into the other/upper side of the manifold. The  

> diameter of the tube/rod would have to be 0.472" give or take a  

> thou or two, in order to sit into the seat that is machined into  

> the manifold.

> The manifold halves are aligned with approx. 1/16" diameter dowel  

> pins....maybe they are 1.5-2 mm's....not sure of this because I  

> didn't pull the manifold completely apart just now. It would be  

> kinda tricky getting the manifold apart while it is still on the  

> engine, but it could be done if you were careful. Whatever you do,  

> don't try sticking a screwdriver into the split around the  

> manifold, because you'll bugger up the machined surfaces. It seems  

> to me like it would be better to remove the manifold and intake  

> tube lower sections in oder to do the job right, because you have  

> to replace the o-rings, and scrape off all the sealer that has  

> been applied around the intake tubes...at least it was applied on  

> my engine.

>



 Thanks, Lynn. Sounds like a bigger job than I had in mind. Think  

 I'll wait on that, play with tilting the carb slightly.



 BTW, my Prince P-Tip is P54AT60K



 -- 

 Regards,  J.



 - Sonex #325 C-FJNJ, Jab 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb

 - former C-IGGY CH701 owner/builder, CH750 in progress

 - see both (and more!) at http://cleco.ca



 -----------------------------

 J. Davis, M.Sc. (comp sci)

 email: jd at lawsonimaging.ca

 *NIX consulting, SysAdmin

 http://cleco.ca

 I watched the Indy 500, and I was thinking that if they

 left earlier they wouldn't have to go so fast.

 				--- Steven Wright

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

jd(at)lawsonimaging.ca
Guest

Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 11:04 am Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

Lynn Matteson wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 Yes, changing out the diverter would involve a bit of work.

 On tilting/rotating the carb, I made up a small pointer and attached it 

 to the spider as I recall, then made a mark on the top of the carb at 

 the starting point. This way I could tell exactly where I started from, 

 and where I was going to, with respect to carb rotation. It doesn't take 

 much, and without a "fix" it's hard to tell where you are.


	


Good idea, thanks.



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 Thanks for the prop specs....my friend has a Waiex w/3300 Jab, and his 

 is 54 x 64 Sensenich.


	


I went with Lonnie's recommendation, and I'm happy with it. I see about 3150 WOT 

full rich in flight, but there are a few variables that can come into play 

there, not the least of which is carb tuning...



J.

aerobiz1(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 12:40 pm Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

Lynn,



 the 3300 has a similar arrangement for the plenum, except the bolt that holds the flow divider goes all the way through into the crankcase.  Given that the intake tubes are sealed with O-rings where they exit the plenum, you would have to wonder why there is sealing compound around the outside as well.  There was on mine and it had gone hard and cracked.  Doesn't seem to be a lot of rhyme or reason for some of this stuff.  Maybe just that a whole lot of different people have tried solving issues at the factory level.

 



Martin



On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 8:47 PM, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net (lynnmatt(at)jps.net)> wrote:

[quote] --> JabiruEngine-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net (lynnmatt(at)jps.net)>

 

 I talked to Pete a couple of years ago, and he said that Jabiru had played with different shapes for that diverter...round, square, teardrop, etc., and finally settled on the teardrop. But later stories have had people having success with the round one. I have my old manifold in the shop, just measured it, and you have to split the manifold by about 90 thousandths in order to get the diverter out. Mine is 1.337" long, and is threaded .988" deep. It doesn't  have to be threaded that deep, just deep enough to accept the length of the 1/4-20 cap screw that holds it in place. On my manifold, the screw goes only into the diverter piece...not through it and into the other/upper side of the manifold. The diameter of the tube/rod would have to be 0.472" give or take a thou or two, in order to sit into the seat that is machined into the manifold.

  The manifold halves are aligned with approx. 1/16" diameter dowel pins...maybe they are 1.5-2 mm's....not sure of this because I didn't pull the manifold completely apart just now. It would be kinda tricky getting the manifold apart while it is still on the engine, but it could be done if you were careful. Whatever you do, don't try sticking a screwdriver into the split around the manifold, because you'll bugger up the machined surfaces. It seems to me like it would be better to remove the manifold and intake tube lower sections in oder to do the job right, because you have to replace the o-rings, and scrape off all the sealer that has been applied around the intake tubes...at least it was applied on my engine.

  

 Lynn Matteson

 Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger

 Jabiru 2200, #2062

 Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while

 Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade

 Electroair direct-fire ignition system

 Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)

 Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since 3-27-2006)

 

 

 

 

 On Jun 19, 2011, at 2:38 PM, j. davis wrote:

 

  	  Quote: 	
		   --> JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "j. davis" <jd(at)lawsonimaging.ca (jd(at)lawsonimaging.ca)>

 

 On 06/19/2011 01:12 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		   --> JabiruEngine-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net (lynnmatt(at)jps.net)>

 

 It's VERY highly unlikely that loosening that bolt, or even removing it completely would allow the diverter to get out of place....that is, if it's anything like the "manifold" that WAS in my 2200.

 	
 

 Oh, OK, haven't actually taken it apart yet, so I'll take your word for it. Do you happen to know any details of the 1/2" ring/tube/rod

 mod? Realistically, I'll prolly just put the carb back on and experiment with tilting it slightly off vertical, but the divider mod is

 intriguing...

 

 Thanks, Lynn.

 	
 

 

 ====================================

  -

 ine-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List

 ====================================

 MS -

 k">http://forums.matronics.com

 ====================================

 e -

           -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

 t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ====================================

 

 

 

 [b]

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 2:51 am Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

Sounds like the old belt AND suspenders, eh? Yes, my engine also had  

the o-rings and goop applied. And it's probably little wonder that  

the tube-to-manifold seal is a bit tricky to seal....those stainless  

steel intake tubes can't really be all that accurately bent, I  

wouldn't think. Mine was sealed with something that was similar to RTV.



Lynn Matteson

Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger

Jabiru 2200, #2062

Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while

Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade

Electroair direct-fire ignition system

Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)

Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since  

3-27-2006)





On Jun 20, 2011, at 4:35 PM, Martin Hone wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   Lynn,



  the 3300 has a similar arrangement for the plenum, except the bolt  

 that holds the flow divider goes all the way through into the  

 crankcase.  Given that the intake tubes are sealed with O-rings  

 where they exit the plenum, you would have to wonder why there is  

 sealing compound around the outside as well.  There was on mine and  

 it had gone hard and cracked.  Doesn't seem to be a lot of rhyme or  

 reason for some of this stuff.  Maybe just that a whole lot of  

 different people have tried solving issues at the factory level.



 Martin

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

plus2s

Joined: 30 Nov 2006
Posts: 65
Location: NEW ZEALAND

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 3:44 am Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

The Black Gook is Loctite No 2 - Real sticky stuff



--- On Tue, 21/6/11, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

Subject: Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com

Date: Tuesday, 21, June, 2011, 10:47 PM



--> JabiruEngine-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <[url=/mc/compose?to=lynnmatt(at)jps.net]lynnmatt(at)jps.net[/url]>



Sounds like the old belt AND suspenders, eh? Yes, my engine also had the o-rings and goop applied. And it's probably little wonder that the tube-to-manifold seal is a bit tricky to seal....those stainless steel intake tubes can't really  be all that accurately bent, I wouldn't think. Mine was sealed with something that was similar to RTV.



Lynn Matteson

Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger

Jabiru 2200, #2062

Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while

Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade

Electroair direct-fire ignition system

Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)

Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since 3-27-2006)





On Jun 20, 2011, at 4:35 PM, Martin Hone wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   Lynn,

 

  the 3300 has a similar arrangement for the plenum, except the bolt that holds the flow divider goes all the way through into the crankcase.  Given that the intake tubes are sealed with O-rings where they exit the plenum, you would have to wonder why there is sealing compound around the outside as well.  There was on mine and it had gone hard and cracked.  Doesn't seem to be a lot of rhyme or  reason for some of this stuff.  Maybe just that a whole lot of different people have tried solving issues at the factory level.

 

vigator?JabiruEngine-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig========================http://www.matronics.com/cont================


	




	
 [quote][b]

Clive J

Joined: 03 Nov 2007
Posts: 340
Location: UK

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 11:00 am Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

Do you suppose the goop is just used to help slip the pipes in? Vaseline would be as good but maybe the extra stiction is a good thing.



________________________________



From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Keith Pickford

Sent: Tue 21/06/2011 12:39

To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

The Black Gook is Loctite No 2 - Real sticky stuff



--- On Tue, 21/6/11, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> wrote:



	From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

	Subject: Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

	To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com

	Date: Tuesday, 21, June, 2011, 10:47 PM

	

	

	

	

	Sounds like the old belt AND suspenders, eh? Yes, my engine also had the o-rings and goop applied. And it's probably little wonder that the tube-to-manifold seal is a bit tricky to seal....those stainless steel intake tubes can't really be all that accurately bent, I wouldn't think. Mine was sealed with something that was similar to RTV.

	

	Lynn Matteson

	Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger

	Jabiru 2200, #2062

	Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while

	Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade

	Electroair direct-fire ignition system

	Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)

	Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since 3-27-2006)

	

	

	

	

	On Jun 20, 2011, at 4:35 PM, Martin Hone wrote:

	

	> Lynn,

	> 

	>  the 3300 has a similar arrangement for the plenum, except the bolt that holds the flow divider goes all the way through into the crankcase.  Given that the intake tubes are sealed with O-rings where they exit the plenum, you would have to wonder why there is sealing compound around the outside as well.  There was on mine and it had gone hard and cracked.  Doesn't seem to be a lot of rhyme or reason for some of this stuff.  Maybe just that a whole lot of different people have tried solving issues at the factory level.

	> 

	>vigator?JabiruEngine-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig======================== ===========

Lynn Matteson

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 11:17 am Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

Stiction? Damn, I got's ta get me one of them dik-shun-aries, Clive. : )



Lynn Matteson

Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger

Jabiru 2200, #2062

Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while

Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade

Electroair direct-fire ignition system

Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)

Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since  

3-27-2006)

do not archive



On Jun 21, 2011, at 2:52 PM, James, Clive R wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   Do you suppose the goop is just used to help slip the pipes in?  

 Vaseline would be as good but maybe the extra stiction is a good  

 thing.



 ________________________________



 From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of  

 Keith Pickford

 Sent: Tue 21/06/2011 12:39

 To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

 The Black Gook is Loctite No 2 - Real sticky stuff

_________________
Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM

aerobiz1(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 1:12 pm Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

Haha,  I'm still getting over Keith's comment about it being 'The Black Gook is Loctite No 2 - Real sticky stuff '     Black Gook ?



Martin



On Wed, Jun 22, 2011 at 5:14 AM, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net (lynnmatt(at)jps.net)> wrote:

 [quote]--> JabiruEngine-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net (lynnmatt(at)jps.net)>

  

 Stiction? Damn, I got's ta get me one of them dik-shun-aries, Clive. : )

 

 Lynn Matteson

 Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger

 Jabiru 2200, #2062

 Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while

 Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade

 Electroair direct-fire ignition system

 Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)

 Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since 3-27-2006)

 do not archive

 

 

 

 

 

 On Jun 21, 2011, at 2:52 PM, James, Clive R wrote:

 

  	  Quote: 	
		   Do you suppose the goop is just used to help slip the pipes in? Vaseline would be as good but maybe the extra stiction is a good thing.

 

 ________________________________

 

 From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com) on behalf of Keith Pickford

 Sent: Tue 21/06/2011 12:39

 To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com (jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com)

 Subject: Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

 

 

 The Black Gook is Loctite No 2 - Real sticky stuff

 	
 

 

 ====================================

  -

 ine-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List

 ====================================

 MS -

 k">http://forums.matronics.com

 ====================================

 e -

           -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

 t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ====================================

 

 

 

 [b]

plus2s

Joined: 30 Nov 2006
Posts: 65
Location: NEW ZEALAND

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 3:01 pm Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

I visited the Jabiru factory at Bundaberg - Great bunch there - all very helpful - learnt a lot about the different sealers used in the engine. The black "Gook" is worth putting on the inlet tubes as any leaks there will lean out the mixture.



Cheers



Keith



--- On Wed, 22/6/11, Martin Hone <aerobiz1(at)gmail.com> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

From: Martin Hone <aerobiz1(at)gmail.com>

Subject: Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com

Date: Wednesday, 22, June, 2011, 9:09 AM



Haha,  I'm still getting over Keith's comment about it being 'The Black Gook is Loctite No 2 - Real sticky stuff '     Black Gook ?



Martin



On Wed, Jun 22, 2011 at 5:14 AM, Lynn Matteson <[url=/mc/compose?to=lynnmatt(at)jps.net]lynnmatt(at)jps.net[/url]> wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  --> JabiruEngine-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <[url=/mc/compose?to=lynnmatt(at)jps.net]lynnmatt(at)jps.net[/url]>

  

 Stiction? Damn, I got's ta get me one of them dik-shun-aries, Clive. : )

 

 Lynn Matteson

 Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger

 Jabiru 2200, #2062

 Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while

 Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade

 Electroair direct-fire ignition system

 Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)

 Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since 3-27-2006)

 do not archive

 

 

 

 

 

 On Jun 21, 2011, at 2:52 PM, James, Clive R wrote:

 

  	  Quote: 	
		   Do you suppose the goop is just used to help slip the pipes in? Vaseline would be as good but maybe the extra stiction is a good thing.

 

 ________________________________

 

 From: [url=/mc/compose?to=owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com]owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com[/url] on behalf of Keith Pickford

 Sent: Tue 21/06/2011 12:39

 To: [url=/mc/compose?to=jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com]jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com[/url]

 Subject: Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

 

 

 The Black Gook is Loctite No 2 - Real sticky stuff

 	
 

 

 ===========

  -

 ine-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List

 ====================================

 MS -

 k">http://forums.matronics.com

 ====================================

 e -

           -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

 t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ====================================

 

 

 

 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Jatarget="_blank"

el="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://www.matronics.com/contribu=== 	


	
 [quote][b]

aerobiz1(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 3:17 pm Post subject: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

Thanks Keith.  I just love these words.  Goop, gook, stiction.  Just so descriptive.



Martin



On Wed, Jun 22, 2011 at 8:56 AM, Keith Pickford <kpickford(at)xtra.co.nz (kpickford(at)xtra.co.nz)> wrote:

 [quote]I visited the Jabiru factory at Bundaberg - Great bunch there - all very helpful - learnt a lot about the different sealers used in the engine. The black "Gook" is worth putting on the inlet tubes as any leaks there will lean out the mixture.

 

Cheers



Keith



--- On Wed, 22/6/11, Martin Hone <aerobiz1(at)gmail.com (aerobiz1(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

From: Martin Hone <aerobiz1(at)gmail.com (aerobiz1(at)gmail.com)>

Subject: Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com (jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com)

 Date: Wednesday, 22, June, 2011, 9:09 AM



Haha,  I'm still getting over Keith's comment about it being 'The Black Gook is Loctite No 2 - Real sticky stuff '     Black Gook ?



Martin

 

On Wed, Jun 22, 2011 at 5:14 AM, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		  --> JabiruEngine-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net>

   

 Stiction? Damn, I got's ta get me one of them dik-shun-aries, Clive. : )

 

 Lynn Matteson

 Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger

 Jabiru 2200, #2062

 Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while

 Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade

 Electroair direct-fire ignition system

 Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)

 Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since 3-27-2006)

 do not archive

 

 

 

 

 

 On Jun 21, 2011, at 2:52 PM, James, Clive R wrote:

 

  	  Quote: 	
		   Do you suppose the goop is just used to help slip the pipes in? Vaseline would be as good but maybe the extra stiction is a good thing.

 

 ________________________________

 

 From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Keith Pickford

 Sent: Tue 21/06/2011 12:39

 To: jabiruengine-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update

 

 

 The Black Gook is Loctite No 2 - Real sticky stuff

 	
 

 

 ===========

  -

 ine-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List

 ====================================

 MS -

 k">http://forums.matronics.com

 ====================================

 e -

           -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

 t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ====================================

 

 

 

 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Jatarget="_blank"

el="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://www.matronics.com/contribu=== 	
 

	
  	  Quote: 	
		  



ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List

tp://forums.matronics.com

_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution



	
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