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Pedal torque tube bushings? Question?

 
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darinh



Joined: 20 Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Location: Utah

PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2006 5:02 pm    Post subject: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

I am assembling my rudder pedals on my series 7 and the torque tube bushings are bolted to the brackets and torqued to 35-40 in-lb. This holds them tight against the brackets and does not allow for any movement with the pedals. Obviously these bushings are not meant to rotate with the torque tube around the bolt but rather the torque tube rotates on the bushing. My problem is that these bushings are significantly larger than the I.D. of my torque tube and will require significant sanding to allow for a smooth movement of the pedals. Does anyone have some input on this? My inclination is that I would rather have the tube and bushing rotate as one around the bolt but this won't allow for the proper torquing of the nut/bolt combination. I don't see that as a huge problem as the load on the bolt is purely shear and not tension. The nuts are nylon lock nuts so they should not back out. Any thoughts? Or what have others done. Thanks,

Darin


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PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2006 5:44 pm    Post subject: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

Darin,

I had to remove all the paint out of the inside of the
tubes and deduce the bearings until it all fit. I
spun them on a drill press and sanded them down. The
first time I did it, the pedals would not return well
from spring tension alone. You need to have it really
work smoothly to get it right.

After I worked everything to fit, I lubricated the
bearings too aid in smooth runner ops. If you leave
it tight, the cables can go slack and possibly catch
on something or jump off track.

Also I had to shim the mounts, or they would bind as
torque was applied. It seems the angle is just a tad
off so the mounts don't line up with the tubing.

It is worth it to make this operate well. You just
have to keep at it.

Kurt S. S-5/NSI tirbo

--- darinh <gerns25(at)netscape.net> wrote:

Quote:
I am assembling my rudder pedals on my series 7 and
the torque tube bushings are bolted to the brackets
and torqued to 35-40 in-lb. This holds them tight
against the brackets and does not allow for any
movement with the pedals. Obviously these bushings
are not meant to rotate with the torque tube around
the bolt but rather the torque tube rotates on the
bushing. My problem is that these bushings are
significantly larger than the I.D. of my torque tube
and will require significant sanding to allow for a
smooth movement of the pedals. Does anyone have
some input on this? My inclination is that I would
rather have the tube and bushing rotate as one
around the bolt but this won't allow for the proper
torquing of the nut/bolt combination. I don't see
that as a huge problem as the load on the bolt is
purely shear and not tension. The nuts are nylon
lock nuts so they should not back out. Any
thoughts? Or what have others done. Thanks,

Darin

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darinh



Joined: 20 Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Location: Utah

PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2006 6:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

Kurt,

Do you see anything wrong with having the bushing and torque tube rotate as one around the bolt as with a typical bolt/bearing combination? This is the way I have it now and it is as smooth as silk with not side to side play or slop. As mentioned, the bolts are only in shear and therefore the full tension strength of the bolt or nut is not needed as long as the nut does not come loose. Being that they are nylon lock nuts, this won't be a problem. I figure the wear of the bearing from the torque tube rotating around it would be more than that of the bolt because of the much larger contact area. The bolt/bearing fit is much more precise and therefore much smoother. Do you see anything wrong with this approach. Maybe it would be best to install an AN4-11 bolt and castle nut with cotter pin, that way I would be assured that it would not come loose. What do you think?

Darin


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PostPosted: Sat May 27, 2006 8:56 pm    Post subject: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

Hi Darin,

I forgot, but I think that the bolt is not threaded
under the bearing, correct? It is a smooth contact?
If not, you certainly would get a lot of wear.

Actually the pressure is spread out more on the
bearing to tube contact than the bearing to bolt
contact. It should wear longer as planned. Remember
that you can put up to 300 lbs of force on the pedals
in a panic and a pretty good amount in nornmal
rudder/brake usage. The bolt hole in the bearing
might elongate under use if it rotates, but the tube
to bearing hole shouldn't.

I think it is definately better to use a castleated
nut and cotterpin on any rotating parts. If you stick
with the bearing rotating on the bolt, you need the
castle nut/pin.

I got tired of trying to make this go together right
at first, but had to go back and fix it later when my
plane was done. It is best to do it right at the
start. As I said, you can put the bearing-bolt
assembly in a drill and file or sand it down while
spinning. Try to keep it even and not tapered or
rounded. After a bit it does go pretty fast and you
will like the results better. Don't take too much off
though.

You always have a few "I-should-haves" when your plane
is done. The fewer the better and none should be
after an accident. In my case, I should have put
blind nuts under the fuselage so that the peddal
assembly can be removed and replaced entirely from
above. As it is planned, you could be required to
remove the engine and firewall to get at the nuts.

Kurt S.

--- darinh <gerns25(at)netscape.net> wrote:

Quote:
Kurt,

Do you see anything wrong with having the bushing
and torque tube rotate as one around the bolt as
with a typical bolt/bearing combination? This is
the way I have it now and it is as smooth as silk
with not side to side play or slop. As mentioned,
the bolts are only in shear and therefore the full
tension strength of the bolt or nut is not needed as
long as the nut does not come loose. Being that
they are nylon lock nuts, this won't be a problem.
I figure the wear of the bearing from the torque
tube rotating around it would be more than that of
the bolt because of the much larger contact area.
The bolt/bearing fit is much more precise and
therefore much smoother. Do you see anything wrong
with this approach. Maybe it would be best to
install an AN4-11 bolt and castle nut with cotter
pin, that way I would be assured that it would not
come loose. What do you think?

Darin

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steade(at)btinternet.com
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 1:12 am    Post subject: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

Darin

This is a common problem. Most people I know reduce the bushing =
diameter. Also you may have to shim the brackets where they bolt to the =
fuselage to make sure they are square to the pedal tubes. I don't think =
it is a good idea to allow rotation on the bolt.

Regards

David


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darinh



Joined: 20 Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Location: Utah

PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 6:16 am    Post subject: Re: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

Ok, thanks for the remarks. I definately don't want the "I should have" scenario so I will go with the application as outlined in the manual. I have already removed a bit of bushing by sanding in a press so a little more shouldn't be a problem. It is that alignment thing that I don't want to deal with but...

Thanks guys,

Darin


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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 7:36 am    Post subject: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

darin,

I agree with David that shimming will fix the
alignment problem. I shimmed the pedals and had to
shim the stick controls too in order to reduce bearing
binding.

You won't later regret smooth controls that you are
confident in. Smile

Kurt S.

--- David Steade <steade(at)btinternet.com> wrote:

Quote:
Darin

This is a common problem. Most people I know reduce
the bushing =
diameter. Also you may have to shim the brackets
where they bolt to the =
fuselage to make sure they are square to the pedal
tubes. I don't think =
it is a good idea to allow rotation on the bolt.

Regards

David

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bnn(at)nethere.com
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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 11:20 am    Post subject: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

At 07:53 PM 5/27/2006, you wrote:
Quote:
Do you see anything wrong with having the bushing and torque tube rotate
as one around the bolt as with a typical bolt/bearing combination?

I don't like it, as the bearing area and therefore wear area is
much smaller. Your bushings will wear much faster. Now if you really wanted
to do it right, you could replace the bushings with sealed ball bearings.
I'll bet you could find some that fit.
You must also use a castle/cotter combo on anything that rotates
directly on the bolt. (AC 43-13)
Quote:


Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 12:06 pm    Post subject: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

Guy is right! Ball bearings are the way to go for top
rated controls. Just depends upon how good you want
it.

Makes me think of John King's planes, Rick's Soob
engine (I should have bought), or a new KitFox company
in the right hands.... I am convinced there are
people here that could team up and make a flying
carpet company. "DreamFox"? Guy's controls. Don S.
for safety, Torgier for research... we got them all
here.

I can dream too..... Smile

I wonder what the Extra 300 uses? Unless you have
felt the controls on one of those, you don't know what
you are missing. Talk about smmmoooooth.... Probably
ball bearings throughout. Best I have ever felt
anyway.

Kurt S.

--- Guy Buchanan <bnn(at)nethere.com> wrote:

Quote:
............. Now if you really wanted
to do it right, you could replace the bushings with
sealed ball bearings.

Quote:
I'll bet you could find some that fit.
You must also use a castle/cotter combo on
anything that rotates directly on the bolt. (AC
43-13)

Quote:
>
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob
Ducar.

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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 1:58 pm    Post subject: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

Darin,

I also have a model 7 and found out that everything worked out perfectly on
the rudder pedal torque tube mounting doing a couple things:

1) Inside the torque tube ends to the lenght of the bushing insertion, make
sure that there is no paint, lumps of any other kind present and that the
inside of the torque tube ends are perfectly round and smooth - I finished
off this task by putting a folded strip of 240 grit wet/dry sandpaper onto a
split dowel (cut lenghtwise with a bandsaw about an inch) then used a drill
on the dowel to polish up the inside of the torque tubes.

2) Thereafter, chuck the bushings in a drill press and work them down till
they fit the torque tubes nicely. Be sure that the bushing is worked down
evenly (no grooves or taper) - backing up a piece of fine sandpaper with a
flat stick works, also touching up with a straight cut file with the bushing
spinning works too. An inside/outside micrometer will help a person gauge how
much material is being removed so you don't go too far.

In 1) & 2) above - finish off with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper - the finer
finish leaves much less friction.

End result - very smooth operation, close tolerances and no binding. I think
lubrication is a good idea, but primarily for corrosion prevention on the
inside of the torque tube.

The bushing is not supposed to rotate on the bolt, the torque tubes should
rotate on the bushing.

Dave S
St Paul, MN

On Saturday 27 May 2006 8:02 pm, darinh wrote:
Quote:


I am assembling my rudder pedals on my series 7 and the torque tube
bushings are bolted to the brackets and torqued to 35-40 in-lb. This holds


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darinh



Joined: 20 Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Location: Utah

PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 4:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

Well, I reworked the pedals and now they are smooth and rotate on the bushing. I used a similar method to what Dave S. described. The controls are smooth but the ball bearings would be a great addition. I think I may look into this option as I have a bearing supply house close. A nice press fit on the bearings with some loctite and those pedals would be like butter! Anyway, thanks for the input...It is great to know when I have a question I can have it answered right here from someone (a bunch of people in most cases) who has "been there, done that". Now on to the next item of business, the rudder and then wings.

Darin


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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 4:18 pm    Post subject: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

I put ball and needle bearings in my camera mount system replacing Delrin
and got a significant improvement in smoothness. One thing I noticed is
that with the delrin bushings, if the systam was left in a set position for
any time, any lubrication was squeezed out of the pivot and the first
movement was a pop or jerk then smooth movement as the lube took over.

Actually the reason for the post is the bearing source I found - good
service, any quantity and they deal with people like us - hobbyists.

http://www.bocabearings.com/

Lowell

---


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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 10:11 am    Post subject: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

Based upon what someone posted a while back on the
list, I started using chain lube last year for these
type applications. It flows in very well, but forms
kind of a wax coating that seems to stay put. Also it
does not soak in dirt like oils do.

I was once told that oils attack these bearings
anyway, but haven`t tested that.

I have also used silicon spray, and it works, but only
for a short period.

In some places I use silicon grease at that is a bit
better, but holds dirt.

Anyone have any better lubricants to use?

Kurt S.

--- Lowell Fitt <lcfitt(at)sbcglobal.net> wrote:

Quote:
I put ball and needle bearings in my camera mount
system replacing Delrin
and got a significant improvement in smoothness.
One thing I noticed is
that with the delrin bushings, if the systam was
left in a set position for
any time, any lubrication was squeezed out of the
pivot and the first
movement was a pop or jerk then smooth movement as
the lube took over.

Actually the reason for the post is the bearing
source I found - good
service, any quantity and they deal with people like
us - hobbyists.

http://www.bocabearings.com/

Lowell

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PostPosted: Tue May 30, 2006 12:48 pm    Post subject: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

Good choice Darin. Your previous description of the bearings rotation on a bolt and nyloc nut were not the right way to go. Any bolt subject to rotation should be secured with a castle nut and cotter pin, something which would be difficult to inspect on the rudder peddle bearings.
Mike

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "darinh" <gerns25(at)netscape.net>

Quote:


Well, I reworked the pedals and now they are smooth and rotate on the bushing.
I used a similar method to what Dave S. described. The controls are smooth but
the ball bearings would be a great addition. I think I may look into this
option as I have a bearing supply house close. A nice press fit on the bearings
with some loctite and those pedals would be like butter! Anyway, thanks for the
input...It is great to know when I have a question I can have it answered right
here from someone (a bunch of people in most cases) who has "been there, done
that". Now on to the next item of business, the rudder and then wings.

Darin




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=37037#37037


















<html><body>

<DIV>Good choice Darin.&nbsp; Your previous description of the bearings rotation on a bolt and nyloc nut were not the right way to go.&nbsp; Any bolt subject to rotation should be secured with a castle nut and cotter pin, something which would be difficult to inspect on the rudder peddle bearings.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp; Mike</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "darinh" &lt;gerns25(at)netscape.net&gt; <BR><BR>&gt; --&gt; Kitfox-List message posted by: "darinh" <GERNS25(at)NETSCAPE.NET><BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Well, I reworked the pedals and now they are smooth and rotate on the bushing. <BR>&gt; I used a similar method to what Dave S. described. The controls are smooth but <BR>&gt; the ball bearings would be a great addition. I think I may look into this <BR>&gt; option as I have a bearing supply house close. A nice press fit on the bearings <BR>&gt; with some loctite and those pedals would be like butter! Anyway, thanks for the <BR>&gt; input...It is great to know when I have a question I can have it answered right <BR>&gt; here from someone (a bunch of people in most cases) who has "been there, done <BR>&gt; that". Now on to the next item of business, the rudder and then wings. <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Darin
<BR>&
List C


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2006 7:23 pm    Post subject: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

At 11:09 AM 5/29/2006, you wrote:
Quote:
Anyone have any better lubricants to use?

Well I don't know if it's better, but I've long used Tri-Flon for anything
plastic. I used it in my sailing days exclusively. There's a new company,
McLube, that also has a lot of lubricants suitable for plastics and other
marine applications.

http://www.888teammclube.com/frames/sailkote/index.html
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582 / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 7:32 am    Post subject: Pedal torque tube bushings? Question? Reply with quote

Any good quality silicon spray lube, of which there are many now would
be better than any petroleum based lube, and they are easy to use. Pick
one that has some body to it, rather than a thin one, you can test this
by spraying it on your finger and evaluating it. I found that 3-In One
has a good one these days. STP used to offer one in a smaller spray
can, which had good body (staying where you want it for longer periods).
The smaller can was great because that makes it easier to get the stuff
where you want it to go.

Duane Rueb

--


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