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Glassing Window Transition

 
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kearney



Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563

PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 2:48 pm    Post subject: Glassing Window Transition Reply with quote

Hi
Somewhere recently I read about using fibreglass tape (RC model) to glass over the gap between the canopy and windows. I did a bit of shopping today and was only able to find tape that was of 6 oz weight. For this application I was thinking that a very light cloth would be appropriate.
Can one of the f/g experts shine some light on what weight of glass I should use. ACS has 1.45 oz "deck" cloth. Would this be appropriate? How may layers should I use…..
Inquiring minds need to know…
Les
#40643 [quote][b]


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Dick Sipp



Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 215
Location: Hope, MI

PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 3:38 pm    Post subject: Glassing Window Transition Reply with quote

Les, et. al.

I commented on the recent post that I had used one layer of the light weight RC fiberglass tape around the windows. I have some minor cracking now with 430 hours.
I don’t think the light tape has much strength and if it touched at all in the sanding filling process it is probably further weakened. The problem with using heavier or more layers of fiberglass is the build up that would be difficult to contour down to the level of the window and then back into the natural curve of the top. I spent a lot of time on this area; it is tricky to get it to look right if one starts building up the area of the seam.

$.02 worth.

Dick Sipp
N110DV 430 hours





[quote][b]


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Strasnuts



Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 3:55 pm    Post subject: Glassing Window Transition Reply with quote

I put two layers of thick glass around mine after others had cracking around the windows from using rc glass. It took me a long time to contour mine and ready it for paint. The paint shop I took it to sanded down most of my work and the windows started to show the seams after 50 hours. I took mine back to the paint shop and made them take off the paint and build back up the seams around the windows. They re-sprayed it and now I think it will remain uncracked.


[quote] ---


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rleffler



Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680

PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 3:33 am    Post subject: Glassing Window Transition Reply with quote

I did the same as Sean.   Dan Horton has a good write up on VAF on how to contour the transition with several layers of tape. That process works well. The one recommendation I would have would be to use different colors of tape so that you can better see when you sand through the top layer.

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 11, 2012, at 7:54 PM, "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com (sean(at)braunandco.com)> wrote:

[quote] Glassing Window Transition I put two layers of thick glass around mine after others had cracking around the windows from using rc glass. It took me a long time to contour mine and ready it for paint. The paint shop I took it to sanded down most of my work and the windows started to show the seams after 50 hours. I took mine back to the paint shop and made them take off the paint and build back up the seams around the windows. They re-sprayed it and now I think it will remain uncracked.


[quote] ---


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AirMike



Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada

PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 8:24 am    Post subject: Glassing Window Transition Reply with quote

I used a lot of microbaloons in my epoxy/tape mix. Holding up well after (150hrs) 3 years.

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Ron B.



Joined: 17 Feb 2009
Posts: 103
Location: Nova Scotia

PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 10:48 am    Post subject: Re: Glassing Window Transition Reply with quote

Exact same experience as Dick Sipp only with less hrs. I would use heavier cloth and make sure I did not sand it off.

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tsts4



Joined: 06 Aug 2007
Posts: 167
Location: Tampa, FL

PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 6:40 am    Post subject: Re: Glassing Window Transition Reply with quote

Anyone have pics or video of the glassing process? What I'm trying to figure out is the mechanics of the glass strips. Is each layer cut in one piece to conform to the window's shape or multiple strips that are butted together until the entire gap is covered?

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Strasnuts



Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 6:59 am    Post subject: Glassing Window Transition Reply with quote

Probably a better way than how I did it but I overlapped so there were two
layers and the seams were offset.
---


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Lew Gallagher



Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC

PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 7:09 am    Post subject: Glassing Window Transition Reply with quote

Hey Todd, et al,

I think I've still got pictures, but not on this computer. This discussion
has been posted in the past, here goes again. What I've done is to use a
right angle air die grinder with a 2" sanding pad to grind out a slight
shallow in the plexi and fiberglass overlapping the joint (after the plexi
is glued in). Maybe 3/4" wide, 1/16" deep. Think edge of sheetrock that
is tapered so that you can mud in tape and be flush when sanded. I glass in
cloth (don't know what thickness, just whatever I've used for everything
else from West Systems!) in this shallow, butting around corners, at full
strength, then finish it out with micro balloon slurry, sand flush (doesn't
get into cloth) ... done. Three years flying and no cracks.

Later, - Lew


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Kellym



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 7:24 am    Post subject: Glassing Window Transition Reply with quote

Has anyone gone with the formed aluminum retainer strip like many
certified aircraft have? I recall seeing it on a website but can't find
it now.

On 8/13/2012 8:10 AM, lewgall(at)charter.net wrote:
Quote:


Hey Todd, et al,

I think I've still got pictures, but not on this computer. This
discussion has been posted in the past, here goes again. What I've
done is to use a right angle air die grinder with a 2" sanding pad to
grind out a slight shallow in the plexi and fiberglass overlapping the
joint (after the plexi is glued in). Maybe 3/4" wide, 1/16" deep.
Think edge of sheetrock that is tapered so that you can mud in tape
and be flush when sanded. I glass in cloth (don't know what
thickness, just whatever I've used for everything else from West
Systems!) in this shallow, butting around corners, at full strength,
then finish it out with micro balloon slurry, sand flush (doesn't get
into cloth) ... done. Three years flying and no cracks.

Later, - Lew

-----
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com


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kearney



Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563

PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 8:03 am    Post subject: Glassing Window Transition Reply with quote

Hi Kelley

Here is the link. http://www.mlblueskunk.com/News.html

It says only 3 have been done so far.

Cheers

Les

Sent from my iPhone

On 2012-08-13, at 9:23 AM, Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> wrote:

Quote:


Has anyone gone with the formed aluminum retainer strip like many certified aircraft have? I recall seeing it on a website but can't find it now.

On 8/13/2012 8:10 AM, lewgall(at)charter.net wrote:
>
>
> Hey Todd, et al,
>
> I think I've still got pictures, but not on this computer. This discussion has been posted in the past, here goes again. What I've done is to use a right angle air die grinder with a 2" sanding pad to grind out a slight shallow in the plexi and fiberglass overlapping the joint (after the plexi is glued in). Maybe 3/4" wide, 1/16" deep. Think edge of sheetrock that is tapered so that you can mud in tape and be flush when sanded. I glass in cloth (don't know what thickness, just whatever I've used for everything else from West Systems!) in this shallow, butting around corners, at full strength, then finish it out with micro balloon slurry, sand flush (doesn't get into cloth) ... done. Three years flying and no cracks.
>
> Later, - Lew
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>



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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com







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tsts4



Joined: 06 Aug 2007
Posts: 167
Location: Tampa, FL

PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 8:03 am    Post subject: Re: Glassing Window Transition Reply with quote

I've attached a crude graphic to illustrate for visual learners like me what I 'm trying to figure out. The window shape is the black rectangle, the colored lines rep individual tapes butted together at the corners and the gray is a single ring of tape cut to the window's shape in lieu of using individual pieces.

Seems like based on the answers so far (and my own very limited fiberglass experience) that the individual tapes are the way to go, but I'm open to suggestions.


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