 |
Matronics Email Lists
Web Forum Interface to the Matronics Email Lists
|
| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
schmoboy
Joined: 26 Feb 2006
Posts: 130
|
 Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 6:24 pm Post subject: Seat question |
 |
|
Happy so far with the 50 or so times I've had the seats on and off. 
Oh, and I switched the two seats and rails so the t-handle is on the
inside next to the tunnel. As I have no center console there, it is
easier to get to the bolts. Even if you use bolts with nutplates, it is
still a tight fit between the seat and the fuse side.
On 11/23/13, 10:58 PM, dhmoose wrote:
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
woxofswa
Joined: 12 Aug 2008
Posts: 349
Location: AZ
|
| Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 7:00 pm Post subject: Re: Seat question |
|
|
The track mod was a great idea and worked slick. Somehow, I hadn't heard about that one before.
The other mod for the AFT stop of the seat rail didn't make sense to me at first reading, but now makes perfect sense and I will be doing that one as well.
If I may be so cheeky as to restate that one so a dummy like me can grasp it. The seat is designed to not be able to slide all the way back by a stop that catches the T-handle mechanism. This forces you to have to remove the T-handle mechanism which with its horizontal bolts is hard to do in the limited space available. The rear stop on the notched seat rail is held in place by two bolts/nuts integral to the rail piece itself. If you remove those bolts, drill down through the underlying seat pedestal cover, and add nutplates to the bottom, by using longer bolts that now reach down to the nutplate, you can remove the rear stop by with a simple socket on an extension to the bolt heads that are now upright and accessible. With the rear stop removed, you can slide the seat out without removing the T-handle apparatus at all. Easy on/easy off.
This one thread has made the annual dues worthwhile for me. Thanks fellers.
Now we need the brain trust to come up with a mod that allows you to remove/install the side panel without having to remove the seat rail!
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
_________________
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 6:39 am Post subject: Seat question |
|
|
That helps. Now I think I get it but it sounds like something much more
easily done during the build than post-build, correct? At least if
nutplates are involved. But tapping the new hole in seat pedestal could
work as well?
Bill "Dues? I thought it was a tribute" Watson
On 11/24/2013 10:00 PM, woxofswa wrote:
| Quote: |
If I may be so cheeky as to restate that one so a dummy like me can grasp it. The rear stop on the notched seat rail is held in place by two bolts/nuts integral to the rail piece itself. If you remove those bolts, drill down through the underlying seat pedestal cover, and add nutplates to the bottom, by using longer bolts that now reach down to the nutplate, you can remove the rear stop by with a simple socket on an extension to the bolt heads that are now upright and accessible. With the rear stop removed, you can slide the seat out without removing the T-handle apparatus at all. Easy on/easy off.
This one thread has made the annual dues worthwhile for me. Thanks fellers.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413956#413956
|
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
davidsoutpost(at)comcast.
Guest
|
| Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 7:07 am Post subject: Seat question |
|
|
It's not a big job at all. It took me about 45 minutes to do both seats.
Remove your seat.
Now remove the pedestal cover
Unscrew the seat rail with the rear seat stop
Remove the stop
Use a few screws for location and screw the rail back on
Using the empty seat stop mounting holes as guides, drill 1/4" holes through the pedestal
Remove rail again and install 1/4" nut plates with flush rivets
Modify delrin glide inserts and re-assemble
From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 9:37:52 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Seat question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
That helps. Now I think I get it but it sounds like something much more
easily done during the build than post-build, correct? At least if
nutplates are involved. But tapping the new hole in seat pedestal could
work as well?
Bill "Dues? I thought it was a tribute" Watson
On 11/24/2013 10:00 PM, woxofswa wrote:
| Quote: | --> RV10-List message posted by: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
If I may be so cheeky as to restate that one so a dummy like me can grasp it. The rear stop on the notched seat rail is held in place by two bolts/nuts integral to the rail piece itself. If you remove those bolts, drill down through the underlying seat pedestal cover, and add nutplates to the bottom, by using longer bolts that now reach down to the nutplate, you can remove the rear stop by with a simple socket on an extension to the bolt heads that are now upright and accessible. With the rear stop removed, you can slide the seat out without removing the T-handle apparatus at all. Easy on/easy off.
This one thread has made the annual dues worthwhile for me. Thanks fellers.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413956#413956
|
[quote][b]
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 8:24 am Post subject: Seat question |
|
|
Much appreciated! Will do at next seat removal... I just did the Delrin mod but I'll have to wait for the next removal for the stop.
I like it, a lot.
Bill
On 11/25/2013 10:06 AM, davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net (davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net) wrote:
[quote] It's not a big job at all. It took me about 45 minutes to do both seats.
Remove your seat.
Now remove the pedestal cover
Unscrew the seat rail with the rear seat stop
Remove the stop
Use a few screws for location and screw the rail back on
Using the empty seat stop mounting holes as guides, drill 1/4" holes through the pedestal
Remove rail again and install 1/4" nut plates with flush rivets
Modify delrin glide inserts and re-assemble
From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> (Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 9:37:52 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Seat question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> (Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)
That helps. Now I think I get it but it sounds like something much more
easily done during the build than post-build, correct? At least if
nutplates are involved. But tapping the new hole in seat pedestal could
work as well?
Bill "Dues? I thought it was a tribute" Watson
On 11/24/2013 10:00 PM, woxofswa wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> (woxof(at)aol.com)
> If I may be so cheeky as to restate that one so a dummy like me can grasp it. The rear stop on the notched seat rail is held in place by two bolts/nuts integral to the rail piece itself. If you remove those bolts, drill down through the underlying seat pedestal cover, and add nutplates to the bottom, by using longer bolts that now reach down to the nutplate, you can remove the rear stop by with a simple socket on an extension to the bolt heads that are now upright and accessible. With the rear stop removed, you can slide the seat out without removing the T-handle apparatus at all. Easy on/easy off.
>
> This one thread has made the annual dues worthwhile for me. Thanks fellers.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413956#413956
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
[b]
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Gordon Anderson
Joined: 16 Apr 2012
Posts: 41
Location: Switzerland
|
| Posted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 2:47 pm Post subject: Seat question |
|
|
Excellent tips, thanks to all.
I was just at this point in the build and have spent the evening fitting up the seat rails and looking at whether to put the plunger inboard or outboard. It struck me that there is very little clearance (max 40thou) between the plunger and tunnel cover in the inboard position - not enough for any carpet to fit in the gap. Has anyone else experienced this?
Incidentally I had already fitted my T-handles with a cheap and cheerful extension by using a loop of bowden cable inner (bicycle brake cable) through the roll pin, fastened with some heat shrink. Cost about 1USD and took 15 minutes for both sides.
Gordon Anderson
41015 Switzerland
On Nov 25, 2013, at 4:06 PM, davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net (davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net) wrote:
[quote]It's not a big job at all. It took me about 45 minutes to do both seats.
Remove your seat.
Now remove the pedestal cover
Unscrew the seat rail with the rear seat stop
Remove the stop
Use a few screws for location and screw the rail back on
Using the empty seat stop mounting holes as guides, drill 1/4" holes through the pedestal
Remove rail again and install 1/4" nut plates with flush rivets
Modify delrin glide inserts and re-assemble
From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com (Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 9:37:52 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Seat question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>
That helps. Now I think I get it but it sounds like something much more
easily done during the build than post-build, correct? At least if
nutplates are involved. But tapping the new hole in seat pedestal could
work as well?
Bill "Dues? I thought it was a tribute" Watson
On 11/24/2013 10:00 PM, woxofswa wrote:
| Quote: | --> RV10-List message posted by: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>
If I may be so cheeky as to restate that one so a dummy like me can grasp it. The rear stop on the notched seat rail is held in place by two bolts/nuts integral to the rail piece itself. If you remove those bolts, drill down through the underlying seat pedestal cover, and add nutplates to the bottom, by using longer bolts that now reach down to the nutplate, you can remove the rear stop by with a simple socket on an extension to the bolt heads that are now upright and accessible. With the rear stop removed, you can slide the seat out without removing the T-handle apparatus at all. Easy on/easy off.
This one thread has made the annual dues worthwhile for me. Thanks fellers.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413956#413956
|
| Quote: |
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com/">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.mypilotstore.com/">www.mypilotstore.com
href="http://www.mrrace.com/">www.mrrace.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
|
[b]
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
johngoodman
Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 5:42 am Post subject: Re: Seat question |
|
|
| Quote: | | It struck me that there is very little clearance (max 40thou) between the plunger and tunnel cover in the inboard position - not enough for any carpet to fit in the gap. Has anyone else experienced this? |
It works fine with carpeting on the tunnel. It's snug but I like it better than outboard. I switched from outside to tunnel side and have not regretted it.
John[/quote]
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
_________________
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 5:39 pm Post subject: Seat question |
|
|
Though I didn't set the T-handle up on the tunnel side, it's pretty clear that it will work with carpet (I have a Flightline interior). It also works on the outboard side even with Flightline's sidepanels in place. I'm thinking that if many of my flights were with 'strangers' I would prefer the tunnel. For a plane flown 100% by the pilot/builder and his wife 99% of the time, the outboard side works fine because one quickly gets the feel for operating it easily. You can clearly take your choice. And you can change your choice later by swapping seat rails.
One other consideration is if one plans to put in a center console. I put one in after my plane was flying that holds an O2 tank and iPad mount:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=8533
It was designed to have a minimal cross section and I think you can see that even with a thin console, you still have the choice of having the T-handle on either side (I still have it outboard).
This is a great thread on a topic that doesn't impact the planes performance, has a little impact on seat operation, and has a not insignificant impact on maintenance. FWIW, I've concluded that:
- Assembling the seats per Van's direction works just fine, as one would expect. However improvements can be made.
- The T-handle can be installed on the tunnel side or outboard side without a problem.
- The seat rail should be modified by trimming back the Nylon/Delrin seat slides 3/8" on the forward ends of the slides to enable seat removal without removal of the flap actuator covers.
- The seat stops bolts should be made removable to enable seat removal without removal of the T-handles (I haven't done this yet but will be)
I love this list. Thanks!
Bill
On 11/26/2013 8:43 AM, johngoodman wrote:
| Quote: | | Quote: | --> RV10-List message posted by: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> (johngoodman(at)earthlink.net)
| Quote: | It struck me that there is very little clearance (max 40thou) between the plunger and tunnel cover in the inboard position - not enough for any carpet to fit in the gap. Has anyone else experienced this?
|
It works fine with carpeting on the tunnel. It's snug but I like it better than outboard. I switched from outside to tunnel side and have not regretted it.
John |
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414181#414181
|
[b]
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum
|
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
|
Get Email Distribution Too!
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
