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		dany88
 
 
  Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 25
 
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				 Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 8:38 am    Post subject: problem firestar | 
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				It is normal that the left wing of this movement? 
 the right wing makes him slightly. 
 I can fly like that? 
 Today I made ​​my second flight and fly the beautiful state kolb firestar, 
 just to close the wings I noticed this movement.
 watch the video 
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVMA3QHOf8E&feature=youtu.be
 
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		tombaisley
 
 
  Joined: 20 Jan 2012 Posts: 30 Location: afton,ny
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				 Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 10:38 am    Post subject: Re: problem firestar | 
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				Do not fly that airplane.
 You need to look up inside the wing to determine why that is loose.
 
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		beauford173(at)tampabay.r Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 11:22 am    Post subject: problem firestar | 
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				Dany:
 
 NO....   Definitely NOT normal.....  Possibly very dangerous.
 
  I would NOT fly it until the wing covering is opened and the inside structure is inspected....  BOTH wings.
 There can be no movement in this structure.  Very important.
 
 Beauford
 FF-076
 Brandon FL
 
 --
 
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		jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 6:20 pm    Post subject: problem firestar | 
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				At 08:38 AM 1/25/2014 -0800, you wrote:
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  
 
 It is normal that the left wing of this movement? 
 the right wing makes him slightly. 
 I can fly like that? 
 Today I made ​​my second flight and fly the beautiful state kolb firestar, 
 just to close the wings I noticed this movement.
 watch the video 
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVMA3QHOf8E&feature=youtu.be
 
 
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 The clevis swivel and pivot bolt looked good.  Could not see if the wing 
 link to the knuckle was moving in and out of the wing.  Fold the wing and 
 rest the leading edge (front corner) on the floor.  Remove the vertical bolt 
 that passes through the swivel clevis and the knuckle.  Move the top of the 
 wing at the swivel away from the knuckle. With your hand grasp the joint 
 protruding from the wing and give it a good shake.  From this you should be 
 able to determine if the movement is from inside the wing.
 
 It may be that the compression strut is loose inside the alignment tube that 
 is welded to the inner most steel rib.  A small hole cut into the bottom of 
 the wing will expose this area.
 
 As a safety issue, turn the swivel over so the bolt head through the knuckle 
 is up and the nut is down.
 
 Jack B. Hart FF004
 Winchester, IN
 
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		dany88
 
 
  Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 25
 
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				 Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 3:26 am    Post subject: Re: problem firestar | 
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				Here are two videos I made ... the first show faulty movement the second shows that the structure and ok. So according to me and only to firmly attach the bolts of the structure, perhaps through the years were slightly loose. since I disassembled everything, replace the main bolt with a self-locking so I'm sure you do not loose any more. 
 What do you think?
 
 http://youtu.be/MHIv3fZPi1o
 
 http://youtu.be/jMeoG_fxIXA
 
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		byoungplumbing(at)gmail.c Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:22 am    Post subject: problem firestar | 
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				dany88
 
 if the movement is between the rear wing attach fitting and the tube it goes 
 into, in the wing...  the first thing I would is to prime the bare metal... 
 then apply enough coats of paint till is is a tight fit.   then I would take 
 a small bit of silicone rubber and with a stick or q tip , put a thin film 
 on the inside of the wing tube, and also on the outside of the steel 
 fitting,   slide the steel fitting in and bolt in place.
 
 on the swivel fitting that fits on the airframe.   also prime and paint, 
 then install a washer and castle nut with a cotter pin.  it should be tight 
 enough  so there is no excess movement, but loose enough to allow it to turn 
 when you fold the wing.  check the cotter pin every time you fly.
 
 the drag strut inside the wing should be solid with no movement.
 
 boyd
 
 
 "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it>
 
 Here are two videos I made ... the first show faulty movement the second 
 shows that the structure and ok. So according to me and only to firmly 
 attach the bolts of the structure, 
 ---
 This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
 http://www.avast.com
 
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		jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Sun Jan 26, 2014 1:26 pm    Post subject: problem firestar | 
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				I had a similar problem with excessive clearances in the swivel joints on my 
 FireFly.
 
 You can see how I fixed it at: http://jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly128.html
 
 To remove the excessive clearance between the part in the wing and the socket, 
 I would coat inside of the socket and the outside of the swivel end with J-B 
 Weld.  Then slide it into place and line up the bolt hole and put the bolt 
 into place.  J-B Weld is an iron particle filled epoxy that is very strong.  
 When it sets up there should be no play between the swivel end and the socket.
 
 Information about J-B Weld can be found at: http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld/
 
 Jack B Hart FF004
 Winchester, IN
 
 ........................................................................................
 At 03:26 AM 1/26/2014 -0800, you wrote:
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  
 
 Here are two videos I made ... the first show faulty movement the second 
 shows that the structure and ok. So according to me and only to firmly 
 | 	  
 attach the bolts of the structure, perhaps through the years were slightly 
 loose. since I disassembled everything, replace the main bolt with a 
 self-locking so I'm sure you do not loose any more. 
 
 
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		dany88
 
 
  Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 25
 
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				 Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 2:53 am    Post subject: Re: problem firestar | 
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				do not understand how to go about the main bolt. 
 The bushings are brass?
 
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		dany88
 
 
  Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 25
 
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				 Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 11:47 am    Post subject: Re: problem firestar | 
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				Do you have any idea how I can remove this motion from the hole of the fork to the main pivot?  
 
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		byoungplumbing(at)gmail.c Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 11:52 am    Post subject: problem firestar | 
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				It's the hole too big? On Jan 27, 2014 12:49 PM, "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it (danielecafaro(at)alice.it)> wrote:[quote] --> Kolb-List message posted by: "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it (danielecafaro(at)alice.it)>
  
  Do you have any idea how I can remove this motion from the hole of the fork to the main pivot?  
  
  
  
  
  Read this topic online here:
  
  http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417693#417693
  
  
  
  
  Attachments:
  
  http://forums.matronics.com//files/foto_cel5_024_115.jpg
  
  
  
  
  ===========
  arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
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  http://forums.matronics.com
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  le, List Admin.
  ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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  [b]
 
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		dany88
 
 
  Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 25
 
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				 Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 12:49 pm    Post subject: Re: problem firestar | 
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				the hole is slightly larger, in practice if witcher well the bolt movement disappears, but I'm afraid that by folding the wings and rub the two walls over time can cause damage
 
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		byoungplumbing(at)gmail.c Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 2:19 pm    Post subject: problem firestar | 
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				Been thinking,,, over here we have plastic 1 gallon milk bottles ....  If you cut some o of the very thin plastic from a milk bottle, or a thin plastic Pepsi or coke bottle and put between the universal joint and the frame,,, and under the washer on the inside of the universal,,,,  then when it turns when you fold the wings.  It should cause no wear.  
 Boyd On Jan 27, 2014 1:52 PM, "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it (danielecafaro(at)alice.it)> wrote:[quote] --> Kolb-List message posted by: "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it (danielecafaro(at)alice.it)>
  
  the hole is slightly larger, in practice if witcher well the bolt movement disappears, but I'm afraid that by folding the wings and rub the two walls over time can cause damage
  
  
  
  
  Read this topic online here:
  
  http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417697#417697
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ===========
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  ===========
  http://forums.matronics.com
  ===========
  le, List Admin.
  ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
  ===========
  
  
  
  [b]
 
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		jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Mon Jan 27, 2014 4:29 pm    Post subject: problem firestar | 
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				Yes, I used very thin brass shim stock.  This will not remove all of the 
 wear because the bolt and hole both wear.  It is never good for steel to 
 wear on steel.  In this case there is wear on the bolt too.  The shim stock 
 can remove the wear from the hole but can not remove the wear from the 
 bolt.
 
 That is why I proposed the second method to fix the problem.  By tapering 
 the hole through the clevis and compressing and neoprene "O" ring, one can 
 compress into the wear on the bolt.  In doing so the bolt and the clevis 
 hole do not touch and there is no further wear.  The taper can easily be 
 formed by using a small grinding wheel mounted in a Dremel tool.  See 
 http://www.dremel.com/en-us/tools/Pages/CategoryProducts.aspx?catid 13
 If you are concerned about wear on the back side of the clevis place a thin 
 brass shim stock washer between the clevis and the flange on the fuselage 
 cage.  Do not over tighten and use some thick grease lubricant on the "O" 
 ring and the washer. 
 
 Jack B. Hart FF004
 Winchester, IN
 
 .....................................................................
 At 02:53 AM 1/27/2014 -0800, you wrote:
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  
 
 do not understand how to go about the main bolt. 
 The bushings are brass?
 
 
 | 	 
 
 
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		jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 5:44 am    Post subject: problem firestar | 
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				Boyd,
 
 Checked out possibilities at McMaster Carr.  (http://www.mcmaster.com)
 
 Looked at Teflon washers.  Part number 95630A505, Low-Friction PTFE Flat 
 Washer, 1/2" Screw Size, 1.5" OD, .017"-.023" Thick Packages of 10 for 
 $15.71
 
 And sheets.  One side is etched for bonding with adhesive. The other side 
 has a smooth finish.  Part number 8711K91,  Sheets Made with Teflon® PTFE, 
 Adhesive Ready, .015" Thick, 6" x 6" $7.81 per sheet
 
 Jack B. Hart FF004
 Winchester, IN
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
 
 | 	  
 Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2014 15:19:26 -0700
 From: B Young <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com>
 
 Been thinking,,, over here we have plastic 1 gallon milk bottles ....  If 
 you cut some o of the very thin plastic from a milk bottle, or a thin 
 plastic Pepsi or coke bottle and put between the universal joint and the 
 frame,,, and under the washer on the inside of the universal,,,,  then when 
 it turns when you fold the wings.  It should cause no wear.
 
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		John Hauck
 
  
  Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 4639 Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)
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				 Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 7:55 am    Post subject: problem Firestar | 
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				Kolbers:
 
  I don't think Homer Kolb intended anything between the universal and the
 airframe, especially paint, plastic washers, and "o" rings, especially
 paint.  The end of the universal should be clean as well as the contact
 point on the airframe, with a light coat of grease to prevent rust and
 assist in rotation during wing fold.
 
 Normally during welding the universal joints, the flat end piece warps a
 bit.  When I had a problem with a loose joint on an early Kolb I built, I
 discovered the paint and primer had worn off after my initial adjustment and
 installation, and the end of the universal was slightly domed/convex.  I
 removed it, got the appropriate tools, whacked it a couple times creating a
 slightly concave end piece.  Now I had two pieces that mated on flat
 surfaces.  Next I used a combination of thick (1/16") and thin (1/32") AN
 washers to adjust out the slop that I got when the castellated nut was lined
 up for the cotter pin.  You know how that works.  One slot is too tight and
 the next is too loose.  I have a lot of hours, compared to most Kolbs, on my
 MKIII, and I have snug rear attach points on my wings that will rotate
 without causing any damage to wing or airframe.  A lot of force can be
 applied to these parts when rotating the wing if the connection is too
 tight.
 
 I personally would not use plastic or rubber to snug up these connections.
 My personal opinion only.  Don't recommend anyone else doing it the way I
 did, but my way has proven to work well over many hours and many years.
 
 john h
 mkIII
 Titus, Alabama
 
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 _________________ John Hauck
 
MKIII/912ULS
 
hauck's holler
 
Titus, Alabama | 
			 
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		John Hauck
 
  
  Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 4639 Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)
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				 Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:27 am    Post subject: problem Firestar | 
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				Kolbers:
 
 My previous post reminded me of another problem I encountered about 20 years
 ago with my MKIII and my first 912 installation on that aircraft.  As usual,
 I painted the engine mount angle aluminum with plenty primer and paint to
 make it look good.  The mistake I made was not to mask off the small area
 where the mounts contacted the bosses on the engine case.  Didn't take long
 for vibration to erode the paint and primer causing the four engine mount
 bolts to loosen up.
 
 When I swapped the 912ul for a 912uls I alodined the aluminum angle engine
 mounts.  No more problems.
 
 john h
 mkIII
 Titus, Alabama
 
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 _________________ John Hauck
 
MKIII/912ULS
 
hauck's holler
 
Titus, Alabama | 
			 
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		dany88
 
 
  Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 25
 
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				 Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 9:56 am    Post subject: Re: problem firestar | 
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				Here is a brass plate cutout thin now. 
 Some photos of the work done for painting
 
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		jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 11:37 am    Post subject: problem Firestar | 
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				John,
 
 I do not believe Homer Kolb intended one to tighten the wing universal 
 assembly bolts after one unfolds the wing prior to flying as you do.
 
 At 200+ hours mine were very loose and worn.  I repaired them so that I can 
 fold the wing as Homer intended without using a wrench to untighten bolts.
 
 Jack B. Hart FF004
 Winchester, IN
 At 09:55 AM 1/29/2014 -0600, you wrote:
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  
 
 Kolbers:
 
  I don't think Homer Kolb intended anything between the universal and the
 airframe, especially paint, plastic washers, and "o" rings, especially
 paint.  The end of the universal should be clean as well as the contact
 point on the airframe, with a light coat of grease to prevent rust and
 assist in rotation during wing fold.
 
 ................................................
 | 	  
 
  	  | Quote: | 	 		  I personally would not use plastic or rubber to snug up these connections.
 My personal opinion only.  Don't recommend anyone else doing it the way I
 did, but my way has proven to work well over many hours and many years.
 
 
 | 	 
 
 
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		dany88
 
 
  Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 25
 
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				 Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 6:24 am    Post subject: Re: problem firestar | 
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				Work performed perfectly, the joint is not more movement, as you can see from this video   http://youtu.be/AHbFpa_Q9NQ
 I am attaching a few pictures
 
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		dany88
 
 
  Joined: 13 Jan 2014 Posts: 25
 
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				 Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 6:36 am    Post subject: Re: problem firestar | 
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				How do I replace the main landing  gear? 
 I unscrewed the bolt near the hub and the bolt inside the fuselage, but not sfilla the bar of aluminum. 
 Why? 
 how can I do?
 
 I enclose a photo
 
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