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vernon.franklin(at)gmail.
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 Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 5:10 am Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
[quote][b]
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carl.froehlich(at)verizon
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 5:47 am Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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Perhaps a photo?
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Franklin
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Filter Air Box
I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
| Quote: | | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
01234567
[quote][b]
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Tim Olson
Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2882
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 6:23 am Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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Hi Vernon,
If you're saying the filter isn't getting squished down enough into the
fiberglas FAB bottom, then I would not use RTV. You don't want
RTV being ingested. But, the fiberglass WILL wear through if you
just put the filter against it anyway. So what I would do is get
a nice sheet of aluminum, as thick as necessary, probably
at least .040, and bond it or rivet it into the bottom of the FAB
so that the filter can push on that. That way you can avoid
the wear. My plane just turned 1100, and somewhere in the
last few years it had worn more than I wanted into the fiberglass
and I did that to prevent future issues.
Tim.
On 5/4/2015 8:08 AM, Vernon Franklin wrote:
| Quote: | I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I
have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass
housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished
riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air
filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
*
|
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carl.froehlich(at)verizon
Guest
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 9:12 am Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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Vernon,
I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box needs an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air filter. Without it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box. After re-glassing the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured this out.
The other problem is the filter will deform with time as there is no structure in the box to hold the filter shape – the filter bottom tends to shrink making the filter more conical than cylindrical (see photo #1). Adding the aluminum plate also provides a way to solve this problem using simple brackets, and adds reinforcement to mount the alt air control door (second photo). On assembly I added some Pro-seal between the bottom of the air box and the aluminum plate. The alt air door rivets sandwich the fiberglass between the plate and the door flange.
The third photo shows the now fixed air box for the RV-8A (using the same K&N E-3450 filter as Van’s provides for the RV-10. The fourth photo shows the air box I made for the RV-10. You’ll note the top plate is inverted. I did this to allow using the K&N E-1000 filter instead of the E-3450. The E-1000 filter is 3” tall as compared to the E-3450 that is 2.5” tall. Note this photo was taken before I added the notch on the left side of the box to provide clearance for the control linkage (last photo).
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Franklin
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Filter Air Box
I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
| Quote: | | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
01234567
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EdKranz
Joined: 29 Dec 2010
Posts: 132
Location: Hastings, MN
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 10:34 am Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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Interesting that this came up now.
When I built my FAB, I wasn't happy that the upper plate was putting enough
pressure on the top of the filter when the FAB was bolted in place. To
remedy this, just this past weekend, I took a piece of 062 aluminum and
made an oval slightly bigger than the outside dimensions of the filter...
the idea being that this would be a good wear surface to protect the FAB
fiberglass from the vibrating filter, and also space the filter up tighter
against the upper plate.
To secure the spacer, I "glued" it to the inside bottom of the FAB with a
full thin coat of black RTV. I did this as I didn't want any fasteners
inside the filter that could come loose and get sucked into the motor. I
was hesitant to use RTV, but I used just a thin layer so there isn't any
excess that smeared out (to later break off) and also, even if some RTV did
get out, it would be on the outside of the filter.
It looks like it's going to work well. Can anyone think of any concerns of
using black RTV to glue the spacer plate down??
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
wrote:
[quote] Vernon,
I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box needs
an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air filter.
Without it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box. After
re-glassing the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured this out
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
_________________
Ed Kranz
RV10
Finishing
www.edandcolleen.com |
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Tim Olson
Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2882
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 10:50 am Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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While I think maybe proseal would be "better", there is one particular
thing that I think makes your install just fine....the RTV is
all kept on the outside of the filter, even if you DID have
some break free. As long as you have nothing on the inner hole
of that bottom plate that could peel out and get sucked up, I'm
sure it'll be just fine. It will be trapped there forever.
I used epoxy on mine, which I don't think is ideal either.
But as long as it's done in a way that it can't be
ingested, I'm sure it's no problem.
Now, I did find just like Carl did, that the filter shrinks over
time. So, you probably want plenty of keepers to hold the filter
in place. (even more than what the plans specify). Personally,
I think I should have built them out of tougher material as well.
Given that, there ARE some rivets used that hold those spacers
that could be ingested. So that's an inspection item.
My keepers were made per-plans and they wore a little bit
as well, so that's why I'd suggest the tougher material up front.
Something that can withstand the filter's attempt to shrink.
Tim
On 5/4/2015 1:28 PM, Ed Kranz wrote:
| Quote: | Interesting that this came up now.
When I built my FAB, I wasn't happy that the upper plate was putting
enough pressure on the top of the filter when the FAB was bolted in
place. To remedy this, just this past weekend, I took a piece of 062
aluminum and made an oval slightly bigger than the outside dimensions of
the filter... the idea being that this would be a good wear surface to
protect the FAB fiberglass from the vibrating filter, and also space the
filter up tighter against the upper plate.
To secure the spacer, I "glued" it to the inside bottom of the FAB with
a full thin coat of black RTV. I did this as I didn't want any fasteners
inside the filter that could come loose and get sucked into the motor. I
was hesitant to use RTV, but I used just a thin layer so there isn't any
excess that smeared out (to later break off) and also, even if some RTV
did get out, it would be on the outside of the filter.
It looks like it's going to work well. Can anyone think of any concerns
of using black RTV to glue the spacer plate down??
|
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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n223rv(at)wolflakeairport
Guest
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 11:03 am Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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I typically use PRC or Proseal for any such applications.... Fuel proof, fairly permanent, and durable....
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
On May 4, 2015, at 2:28 PM, Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com (ed.kranz(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote]Interesting that this came up now.
When I built my FAB, I wasn't happy that the upper plate was putting enough pressure on the top of the filter when the FAB was bolted in place. To remedy this, just this past weekend, I took a piece of 062 aluminum and made an oval slightly bigger than the outside dimensions of the filter... the idea being that this would be a good wear surface to protect the FAB fiberglass from the vibrating filter, and also space the filter up tighter against the upper plate.
To secure the spacer, I "glued" it to the inside bottom of the FAB with a full thin coat of black RTV. I did this as I didn't want any fasteners inside the filter that could come loose and get sucked into the motor. I was hesitant to use RTV, but I used just a thin layer so there isn't any excess that smeared out (to later break off) and also, even if some RTV did get out, it would be on the outside of the filter.
It looks like it's going to work well. Can anyone think of any concerns of using black RTV to glue the spacer plate down??
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net (carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net)> wrote:
| Quote: |
Vernon,
I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box needs an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air filter. Without it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box. After re-glassing the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured this out.
The other problem is the filter will deform with time as there is no structure in the box to hold the filter shape – the filter bottom tends to shrink making the filter more conical than cylindrical (see photo #1). Adding the aluminum plate also provides a way to solve this problem using simple brackets, and adds reinforcement to mount the alt air control door (second photo). On assembly I added some Pro-seal between the bottom of the air box and the aluminum plate. The alt air door rivets sandwich the fiberglass between the plate and the door flange.
The third photo shows the now fixed air box for the RV-8A (using the same K&N E-3450 filter as Van’s provides for the RV-10. The fourth photo shows the air box I made for the RV-10. You’ll note the top plate is inverted. I did this to allow using the K&N E-1000 filter instead of the E-3450. The E-1000 filter is 3” tall as compared to the E-3450 that is 2.5” tall. Note this photo was taken before I added the notch on the left side of the box to provide clearance for the control linkage (last photo).
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Vernon Franklin
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Filter Air Box
I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
01234567
|
8
[b]
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http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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speckter(at)comcast.net
Guest
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 11:24 am Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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Silicone is not fuel resistant, not a good option.
On May 4, 2015, at 9:45 AM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net (carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net)> wrote:
[quote] <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
Perhaps a photo?
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Vernon Franklin
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Filter Air Box
I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
01234567
8
[b]
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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EdKranz
Joined: 29 Dec 2010
Posts: 132
Location: Hastings, MN
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 11:40 am Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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Thanks for the replies.
I'm not taking any chances in this area, so I'll peel up the plate and re-adhere it with ProSeal!
Ed
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 2:19 PM, Gary <speckter(at)comcast.net (speckter(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
[quote]Silicone is not fuel resistant, not a good option.
On May 4, 2015, at 9:45 AM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net (carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net)> wrote:
9
[b]
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
_________________
Ed Kranz
RV10
Finishing
www.edandcolleen.com |
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Kelly McMullen
Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 12:43 pm Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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Either ProSeal or fiberglass epoxy it in. I also see no issue using countersunk rivets with the shop head on the outside.
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:36 PM, Ed Kranz <ed.kranz(at)gmail.com (ed.kranz(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote]Thanks for the replies.
I'm not taking any chances in this area, so I'll peel up the plate and re-adhere it with ProSeal!
Ed
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 2:19 PM, Gary <speckter(at)comcast.net (speckter(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
| Quote: | Silicone is not fuel resistant, not a good option.
On May 4, 2015, at 9:45 AM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net (carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net)> wrote:
9
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0
[b]
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD |
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vernon.franklin(at)gmail.
Guest
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 2:32 pm Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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Thanks for the detailed photos and ideas.
I definitely think the aluminum plate protecting the fiberglass housing is
the right answer.
After Tim's comment of the fiberglass wearing out over time, I am surprised
that Van's has not addressed this as an AD on all models.
Vernon
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
wrote:
[quote] Vernon,
I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box needs
an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air filter.
Without it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box. After
re-glassing the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured this out
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
|
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
Guest
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 3:21 pm Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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I agree. I have seen planes that came in for inspection where the filter was about ready to fall through the bottom of the airbox.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
Sent from my iPad
On May 4, 2015, at 6:29 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com (vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote]Thanks for the detailed photos and ideas. I definitely think the aluminum plate protecting the fiberglass housing is the right answer.
After Tim's comment of the fiberglass wearing out over time, I am surprised that Van's has not addressed this as an AD on all models.
Vernon
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net (carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net)> wrote:
| Quote: |
Vernon,
I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box needs an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air filter. Without it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box. After re-glassing the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured this out.
The other problem is the filter will deform with time as there is no structure in the box to hold the filter shape – the filter bottom tends to shrink making the filter more conical than cylindrical (see photo #1). Adding the aluminum plate also provides a way to solve this problem using simple brackets, and adds reinforcement to mount the alt air control door (second photo). On assembly I added some Pro-seal between the bottom of the air box and the aluminum plate. The alt air door rivets sandwich the fiberglass between the plate and the door flange.
The third photo shows the now fixed air box for the RV-8A (using the same K&N E-3450 filter as Van’s provides for the RV-10. The fourth photo shows the air box I made for the RV-10. You’ll note the top plate is inverted. I did this to allow using the K&N E-1000 filter instead of the E-3450. The E-1000 filter is 3” tall as compared to the E-3450 that is 2.5” tall. Note this photo was taken before I added the notch on the left side of the box to provide clearance for the control linkage (last photo).
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Vernon Franklin
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RV10-List: Filter Air Box
I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
01234567
|
--
Vernon Franklin
8
[b]
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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carl.froehlich(at)verizon
Guest
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 3:34 pm Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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I did send a note to Van's on this, and how I worked the fix. The response I got led me to believe this is a known issue, and that they have recommended adding the aluminum plate in the bottom of the air box to those who have called for help.
Carl
On May 4, 2015, at 6:29 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com (vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote]Thanks for the detailed photos and ideas. I definitely think the aluminum plate protecting the fiberglass housing is the right answer.
After Tim's comment of the fiberglass wearing out over time, I am surprised that Van's has not addressed this as an AD on all models.
Vernon
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net (carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net)> wrote:
| Quote: |
Vernon,
I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box needs an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air filter. Without it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box. After re-glassing the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured this out.
The other problem is the filter will deform with time as there is no structure in the box to hold the filter shape – the filter bottom tends to shrink making the filter more conical than cylindrical (see photo #1). Adding the aluminum plate also provides a way to solve this problem using simple brackets, and adds reinforcement to mount the alt air control door (second photo). On assembly I added some Pro-seal between the bottom of the air box and the aluminum plate. The alt air door rivets sandwich the fiberglass between the plate and the door flange.
The third photo shows the now fixed air box for the RV-8A (using the same K&N E-3450 filter as Van’s provides for the RV-10. The fourth photo shows the air box I made for the RV-10. You’ll note the top plate is inverted. I did this to allow using the K&N E-1000 filter instead of the E-3450. The E-1000 filter is 3” tall as compared to the E-3450 that is 2.5” tall. Note this photo was taken before I added the notch on the left side of the box to provide clearance for the control linkage (last photo).
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Vernon Franklin
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Filter Air Box
I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
01234567
|
--
Vernon Franklin
8=
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Tim Olson
Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2882
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 3:49 pm Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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As opposed to, gasp, just adding one more line to the FAB plans and putting out a Maintenance Bulletin, so that all future RV's are built with improved design...
Tim
On May 4, 2015, at 6:30 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net (carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net)> wrote:
[quote]I did send a note to Van's on this, and how I worked the fix. The response I got led me to believe this is a known issue, and that they have recommended adding the aluminum plate in the bottom of the air box to those who have called for help.
Carl
On May 4, 2015, at 6:29 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com (vernon.franklin(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Thanks for the detailed photos and ideas. I definitely think the aluminum plate protecting the fiberglass housing is the right answer.
After Tim's comment of the fiberglass wearing out over time, I am surprised that Van's has not addressed this as an AD on all models.
Vernon
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net (carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net)> wrote:
| Quote: |
Vernon,
I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box needs an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air filter. Without it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box. After re-glassing the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured this out.
The other problem is the filter will deform with time as there is no structure in the box to hold the filter shape – the filter bottom tends to shrink making the filter more conical than cylindrical (see photo #1). Adding the aluminum plate also provides a way to solve this problem using simple brackets, and adds reinforcement to mount the alt air control door (second photo). On assembly I added some Pro-seal between the bottom of the air box and the aluminum plate. The alt air door rivets sandwich the fiberglass between the plate and the door flange.
The third photo shows the now fixed air box for the RV-8A (using the same K&N E-3450 filter as Van’s provides for the RV-10. The fourth photo shows the air box I made for the RV-10. You’ll note the top plate is inverted. I did this to allow using the K&N E-1000 filter instead of the E-3450. The E-1000 filter is 3” tall as compared to the E-3450 that is 2.5” tall. Note this photo was taken before I added the notch on the left side of the box to provide clearance for the control linkage (last photo).
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Vernon Franklin
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Filter Air Box
I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
01234567
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--
Vernon Franklin
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flyboy(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Mon May 04, 2015 4:18 pm Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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On 05/04/2015 05:45 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
| Quote: | As opposed to, gasp, just adding one more line to the FAB plans and
putting out a Maintenance Bulletin, so that all future RV's are built
with improved design...
Tim
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That'd be nice, but it's much appreciated that this list keeps me
apprised of so many of these issues as I go. I'm thinking that a sort
of centralized list of areas where Van's supplied parts or instructions
are widely known to be inadequate would be really nice for the next
person. All the information is out there, but it's hard to come by.
Has anyone started such a list before I go creating one?
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Lenny Iszak
Joined: 23 Mar 2008
Posts: 270
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| Posted: Tue May 05, 2015 6:21 am Post subject: Re: Filter Air Box |
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I built a tight fiberglass lip around the bottom that covers the bottom rubber part, around a 1/4 inch tall, so the filter doesn't move around much. When the filter is new it fits perfectly, and after about 50 hours it shrinks both in height and circumference. So if you are still building make sure that it fits tight at least in height because it shrinks over time. I got a new filter thinking oh well the other one was already a few years old, just sitting there. The new one also shrank in 50 or so hours.
Looks like I also need to add a plate to the bottom. The problem I see with Epoxy, not sure about proseal, that it will have a hard time sticking to the already fuel/oil soaked fiberglass.
If that piece of aluminum gets unglued, it will rub a hole real quick through the fiberglass bottom. I'm thinking rivets with washers under the shop head (on the outside) would work better than glue.
Lenny
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Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
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| Posted: Tue May 05, 2015 7:45 am Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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You can possibly 'bow it back' into a tight fit by applying heat and pressure to the FG housing. A heat gun will do it.
On 5/4/2015 9:08 AM, Vernon Franklin wrote:
[quote] I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
05/04/15 [b]
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Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
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| Posted: Tue May 05, 2015 12:46 pm Post subject: Filter Air Box |
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I was late to the party... will be re-inspecting my FAB at the next de-cowling.
On 5/5/2015 11:42 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
[quote] You can possibly 'bow it back' into a tight fit by applying heat and pressure to the FG housing. A heat gun will do it.
On 5/4/2015 9:08 AM, Vernon Franklin wrote:
| Quote: | I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
05/04/15
|
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
05/05/15 [b]
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