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Flanging tool advice

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dredmoody(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 2:14 pm Post subject: Flanging tool advice

I bought an edge flanging tool from Aircraft  Spruce... the kind with the two rollers on a straight handle. I want to use it  to slightly curl the edge of some of the skins before rivetting so that the edge  sits down tight. There are no directions with the tool and my experiments with  pieces of scrap have produced a wavy edge rather than the desired effect.  Anybody out there know the secret to using this tool successfully? I'd  appreciate the help,

  

 Ed Moody II

 Rayne, LA

 601XL / wings

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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 3:23 pm Post subject: Flanging tool advice

Ed-

     I had the same tool and  attempted the same trick as you're trying to perform.

     The answer is, you'd better get  it right the first time, because the metal 1. Stretches and 2. Starts  curling up, the same way as a piece of paper will if you run it over the edge of  a table. Take one pass with the tool and quit. I always drew the tool toward me  rather than pushed it away.

     The technique works OK on short  runs, but I guarantee you'll get into trouble if you try to do, say, the  spanwise edge of a wing skin.

                                                                     Bill

                                   do not archive? 

 [quote]   ---

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dredmoody(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 3:35 pm Post subject: Flanging tool advice

Thanks, I was afraid of that. I just hoped there  was a trick I had missed. I'll revert to plan "B" which is to take a 2x4, cut a  length-wise saw kerf along one of the 1.5" sides and use that to put a gentle  bend along the entire edge of the skin at once. Damn! I hate when there's no GEE  WHIZ in the gee whiz tool.

  

 Ed

 [quote]   ---

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rjscep(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 4:54 pm Post subject: Flanging tool advice

 	  Quote: 	
		   How about putting a slot in a long board the 

 thickness of the skin and the depth you want. Then 

 put the skin in the slot and bend it down, that 

 work. Bob S. 


	




--- Edward Moody II <dredmoody(at)cox.net> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   I bought an edge flanging tool from Aircraft

 Spruce... the kind with the two rollers on a

 straight handle. I want to use it to slightly curl

 the edge of some of the skins before rivetting so

 that the edge sits down tight. There are no

 directions with the tool and my experiments with

 pieces of scrap have produced a wavy edge rather

 than the desired effect. Anybody out there know the

 secret to using this tool successfully? I'd

 appreciate the help,

 

 Ed Moody II

 Rayne, LA

 601XL / wings


	




__________________________________________________

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naumuk(at)alltel.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 5:34 pm Post subject: Flanging tool advice

Ed-

     Jeff Small went the other route  with a bender that was  only about 1/2" wide, if that. I remember him  saying that he made it out of a really hard wood like walnut or rosewood  and had to cut the kerf with a jeweler's saw. 

     I was too impatient to use his  technique and since I did it the way you were going to try will have to roll  out some high spots. It works, but I'll wind up with a net loss  timewise.

      You might check in the  archives for Jeff's tool. I used to have a picture but had a hard drive crash  last year that probably wiped everything out.

                                                                     Bill

                                   do not archive

 [quote]   ---

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JAPhillipsGA(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 7:50 am Post subject: Flanging tool advice

Ed, great to hear from you. On the edging tool. Is your purpose to put a lip around the skin edge to help make a tighter seal when riveting overlapping skins ? If so, it may be a reasonable idea with some merit. On the other hand, I saw a XL a couple months ago, beautiful plane with excellent workmanship ( better than mine) with these bent edges. Frankly, they detracted from the overall appearance and finish. Maybe more of a taste thing ?? The other point you might consider is if your metal is right and the rivet lines are straight and properly spaced from the edge you should achieve a flat tight lap joint. Just my two cents worth. Have you had a chance to see a XL with these surfaces so bent ? You might agree. Best to you. I hope to fly somewhere this weekend, Bill of Georgia

 do not archive

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dredmoody(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 10:18 am Post subject: Flanging tool advice

The roller tool does not produce a nice result in my hands. Some other guys have said that is the usual result, so I guess it will look good on the wall of the shop from here on out. 



I thought about using a thin kerf saw blade to cut a slot along the edge of a one by four just to put the least bit of "down"on the edge before rivetting. I definitely agree that if you bend the edge enough to see it after rivetting, it would be better not to do it at all.



Today, while waitng for an xray on a root canal, it came to me to try using the band saw to cut a J - shaped slot into the end of a board. It may take some experimentation with scraps but if the J is the right size and shape I could slide it onto the edge of the skin until it bottoms out, then slide it along the edge from one end to the other, hopefully leaving a gentle curl to the edge that will flatten out when the clecos and rivets pull it down. If I get the idea to work, I'll send you and the list a photo. Might turn out to be a brain fart or a really good innovation, who knows?



Thanks for chiming in,



Ed

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dredmoody(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 11:03 am Post subject: Flanging tool advice

Thanks Bill, I'm working on a similar idea that came to me at the office today and if it works, I'll post the results.



Ed



---- Bill Naumuk <naumuk(at)alltel.net> wrote: 

 	  Quote: 	
		   Ed-

     Jeff Small went the other route with a bender that was  only about 1/2" wide, if that. I remember him saying that he made it out of a really hard wood like walnut or rosewood and had to cut the kerf with a jeweler's saw. 

     I was too impatient to use his technique and since I did it the way you were going to try will have to roll out some high spots. It works, but I'll wind up with a net loss timewise.

      You might check in the archives for Jeff's tool. I used to have a picture but had a hard drive crash last year that probably wiped everything out.

                                                                 Bill

                                 do not archive

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