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gfb
Joined: 07 Jun 2016
Posts: 4
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 Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 11:36 pm Post subject: Review request for RV-9 Electrical System (G3X, GTN, etc) |
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Initial thoughts on electrical system for my RV9, hoping to get some feedback from you folks. I do have some questions below but please feel free to chime in with anything else you feel is valuable.
- On the fence about some sort of avionics switch. Most of the big items installed don’t have on-off switches on them so I can’t keep them off during engine start. I understand the single point of failure problem so I have been avoiding it but it sure would be nice.
- Safe to put both trim motors on the same breaker? The GAD27 install manual recommends 2 5A breakers but does not indicate why. Seems like a waste of a breaker to me 
- Any other spots I could save a breaker? I feel that I’m too granular with them but can’t figure out where to… trim… Maybe Nav+Strobes, Servos+GMC, AudioPanel+GTR20?
- What is the preferred method to set up the sd-8 to come on by itself? I have heard setting it's regulator voltage low is pretty common? What should that be set to?
- The e-bus relay should see a peak of 20A with typical below 15A. I’m considering the B&C with the 25A heat sink?
Thanks!
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kjashton(at)vnet.net
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| Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 11:59 am Post subject: Review request for RV-9 Electrical System (G3X, GTN, etc) |
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A breaker pops from too much amperage being drawn. Is it just a transient phenomena? Likely not. If wires are shorting, it will happen again. Why risk resetting? It will do no good. I have 700 hours on my experimental with fuses. They have never popped unless I was fiddling with circuits and shorted something. I do have electronic ignitions on breakers but I have never needed the breakers.
Use what is cheap and simple.
An essential bus ought to be a load-shedded bus anyway so you shouldn’t have to pull additional breakers to shed load.
-Kent
| Quote: | On Jun 14, 2016, at 3:14 PM, gfb <fly(at)bappos.com> wrote:
OK, I think I see your point on not needing breakers and going with fuses but I'm not 100% there yet. For my personal sense of comfort I'd like to have items on the endurance bus on breakers. Does this seem like a reasonable compromise? It allows me to load-shed even further by pulling breakers if needed and uses much fewer breakers and panel space. Thoughts?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=457134#457134
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kjashton(at)vnet.net
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| Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 12:25 pm Post subject: Review request for RV-9 Electrical System (G3X, GTN, etc) |
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| Quote: | On Jun 14, 2016, at 3:24 PM, gfb <fly(at)bappos.com> wrote:
Does the rest of the circuit seem reasonable?
Could you elaborate on the e-bus switch vs relay? Up to what amperage is it ok for it to be a regular switch? I was planning on using the S700 Carling switches sold by b&c and they claim 15A VAC but a quick search for them seems to bring up more failure posts than details on the switches. Is there a better option?
If your e-bus is only a radio and other low-amp stuff, a toggle switch will do.
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| Quote: | For the fuse blocks I'm looking at the ones sold by b&c and they come in different sizes. Does it make sense to have 2 or 3 to split up the load a bit? Where should they feed from? i.e. should I have one large wire for the firewall passthrough and then split that up somewhere between the fuse blocks?
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I have made a main bus-and-essential bus setup two ways. (1) By using a 12+ fuse Bussman fuse block with a diode feeding a 6-fuse Bussman block (the 6 position becomes the essential bus and can be independently powered via a toggle switch off the battery), or (2) cutting the central conductor in a large Bussman fuse block, soldering a tab onto the opposite end, then using a diode to from the main side to power the essential side. Again, the essential side can receive power from the battery via a toggle switch under emergency conditions.
Thanks to Bob for these ideas.
-Kent
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