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Brakes and full enclosure

 
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capedavis(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 10:36 am    Post subject: Brakes and full enclosure Reply with quote

Kolbers i have a couple questions on a Firefly. I flew my Firestar KXP for 10 years without brakes , had almost no trouble on the field i fly out of " Chatham Municipal" 3000 ft asphalt with a full length grass field along side which i used most of the time but I also went to flyins where there was a lot of aircraft taking off and landing never had any trouble as long as I stayed alert and thought ahead! I read most kolb concerned emails on the list and see that most builders go out of there way and risk too much weight to install brakes . Are they necessary ?On a FIREFLY?
My next question I prefer a full enclosure and I called Kolb and asked for a price on the full enclosure without the lexan as I have a local supplier for that the price was $308 ? What is included ?

Looking at the Plans all I can see is about $30 dollars worth of aluminum and a few bolts I think I can build it myself . Is there somthing I am missing ? Just hoping for some input Chris


Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly


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capedavis(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 10:50 am    Post subject: Brakes and full enclosure Reply with quote

Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly


On Friday, October 7, 2016 2:34 PM, chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> wrote:



Kolbers i have a couple questions on a Firefly. I flew my Firestar KXP for 10 years without brakes , had almost no trouble on the field i fly out of " Chatham Municipal" 3000 ft asphalt with a full length grass field along side which i used most of the time but I also went to flyins where there was a lot of aircraft taking off and landing never had any trouble as long as I stayed alert and thought ahead! I read most kolb concerned emails on the list and see that most builders go out of there way and risk too much weight to install brakes . Are they necessary ?On a FIREFLY?
My next question I prefer a full enclosure and I called Kolb and asked for a price on the full enclosure without the lexan as I have a local supplier for that the price was $308 ? What is included ?

Looking at the Plans all I can see is about $30 dollars worth of aluminum and a few bolts I think I can build it myself . Is there somthing I am missing ? Just hoping for some input Chris


Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly


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Herbgh(at)nctc.com
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 4:26 pm    Post subject: Brakes and full enclosure Reply with quote

slow list Chris...
  I have installed full enclosures on two Fireflys...I did a gull wing enclosure on my MkIII..


   easy to do...the 1/16 lexan just lays over the nose cone... a 4x4 sheet works...was 35 to 40 bucks here in Tenn.. Lay the paper covered lexan over the nose cone and rear bow that you have made and do a rough marking of the size...over sized a bit but to shape ..this makes it easy to clamp and handle. Once the shape is made then move on to mounting..I let the Lexan lay over the nose cone by about 1 and one half inch..enough to allow the rubber seal to clear the front  of the cone a bit... 1/8th inch...will do..

  Making the rear bow is not science...just bend it carefully and try not to go to round such that it is sticking out any further than need be...Guess your shoulders would dictate the bow size..Oval is good..toward flat.on the sides.. The top of this bow is braced by another bow that runs rather horizontal to the cromolly verticals that attach to the spar carry through..this is attached to the cromolly tubes with gussets and that tube and rear bow meet and are gusseted to one another..on the top...

  I install a stop screw and decorative washer at about 10 am.. thru the lexan to the  cone..I raise the lexan up to a comfortable entry position and install that screw...I also note where the lexan is on the rear bow and install large head rivets from there down to the end of the bow on that side(left)  I install a powder coated white angle aluminum on the top of the left longeron and fasten it in maybe three or 4 places then fasten it to the lexan from nose to bow I attach it to the bottom of the rear bow but not to the nose cone....I use the decorative dimpled washer and flush screws there...then once the lexan is down on the right side...I mark the paper covering and install white angle aluminum there also..from  nose cone to bow..At the nose end I install a tapered screw of my own making I flatten or grind it flat  and attach it to the aluminum angle   ..I drill a hole in the nose cone bracket such that the tapered screw fits snugly and holds a good wrap around the nose cone.. before you do this install the rubber seal on this end of the lexan..some hold it with silicone but I use the 3m black weather seal...Trial fit the rubber seal and tape the lexan on both sides so that the rubber goo that squeezes out of the seal does not get on the lexan beyond where it is intended to go...I use good auto paint tape here...Then  install the tapered screw on the angle that is attached same as the angle on the left side...now...make a sliding latch that is captured by the aluminum bow that the rear of the lexan lays on...you can make some sort of prop...to hold the lexan open for entry/exit ...i tended to use my head... naturally the right side angle is only attached to the lexan... and it is good to make a stop on the sliding latch such that is cannot rise up the bow..though the slip stream should be fine for that...

 Clear as mud?  Herb
 my cost is usually the price of the lexan...maybe total of 50 bucks..
 oops...brakes...I use mountain bike brakes..they come from the salvage yard on bicycles ...front only usually...meaning that one side mounts with cable forward and the other side rearword..
   I turn aluminum spindles to mate the disk to the rim..I have good luck using the two piece spun rims...they are true...
 The hard part is mounting the caliper...here you need to make an aluminum plate that slides over the axle and mounts to the 4 holes in the large washer that is part of the kolb axle..from here it is a matter of a spacer,trial and error, to get the disk pad/caliper/disk distance correct. a cromolly tube that slips over the axle and sets the distance from disk/rim  to caliper... is the spacer..
 In the pics..notice that I left too much lexan on the left side..need only be 1/4 inch below the longeron..

On 10/07/2016 01:49 PM, chris davis wrote:

Quote:

 
Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly




On Friday, October 7, 2016 2:34 PM, chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> (capedavis(at)yahoo.com) wrote:



Kolbers i have a couple questions on a Firefly. I flew my Firestar KXP for 10 years without brakes , had almost no trouble on the field i fly out of " Chatham Municipal" 3000 ft asphalt with a full length grass field along side which i used most of the time but I also went to flyins where there was a lot of aircraft taking off and landing never had any trouble as long as I stayed alert and thought ahead! I read most kolb concerned emails on the list and see that most builders go out of there way and risk too much weight to install brakes  . Are they necessary ?On a FIREFLY?
     My next question I prefer a full enclosure and I called Kolb and asked for a price on the full enclosure without the lexan as I have a local supplier for that the price was $308 ? What is included ?
 Looking at the Plans all I can see is about $30 dollars worth of aluminum and a few bolts I think I can build it myself . Is there somthing I am missing ? Just hoping for some input Chris










Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly











--
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny."

Aristotle

"Daddy, tell me...why are you going to the pig farm for a reeducation and what does it mean "A basket of deplorables"? "Are you unreedemable"? And" who is Stalin and Mao Zedong"? Mark Twain's little girl...


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capedavis(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 8:17 am    Post subject: Brakes and full enclosure Reply with quote

Herb Thank u for the very complete answer to my full enclosure question Im sure I can build it for a lot less than $300 that Kolb asked for it . Your brakes look great but my question was do I need brakes more on the Firefly than the Firestar? thank u Chris


Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly


On Friday, October 7, 2016 8:59 PM, Herb <Herbgh(at)nctc.com> wrote:



slow list Chris...
I have installed full enclosures on two Fireflys...I did a gull wing enclosure on my MkIII..


easy to do...the 1/16 lexan just lays over the nose cone... a 4x4 sheet works...was 35 to 40 bucks here in Tenn.. Lay the paper covered lexan over the nose cone and rear bow that you have made and do a rough marking of the size...over sized a bit but to shape ..this makes it easy to clamp and handle. Once the shape is made then move on to mounting..I let the Lexan lay over the nose cone by about 1 and one half inch..enough to allow the rubber seal to clear the front of the cone a bit... 1/8th inch...will do..

Making the rear bow is not science...just bend it carefully and try not to go to round such that it is sticking out any further than need be...Guess your shoulders would dictate the bow size..Oval is good..toward flat.on the sides.. The top of this bow is braced by another bow that runs rather horizontal to the cromolly verticals that attach to the spar carry through..this is attached to the cromolly tubes with gussets and that tube and rear bow meet and are gusseted to one another..on the top...

I install a stop screw and decorative washer at about 10 am. thru the lexan to the cone..I raise the lexan up to a comfortable entry position and install that screw...I also note where the lexan is on the rear bow and install large head rivets from there down to the end of the bow on that side(left) I install a powder coated white angle aluminum on the top of the left longeron and fasten it in maybe three or 4 places then fasten it to the lexan from nose to bow I attach it to the bottom of the rear bow but not to the nose cone....I use the decorative dimpled washer and flush screws there...then once the lexan is down on the right side...I mark the paper covering and install white angle aluminum there also..from nose cone to bow..At the nose end I install a tapered screw of my own making I flatten or grind it flat and attach it to the aluminum angle ..I drill a hole in the nose cone bracket such that the tapered screw fits snugly and holds a good wrap around the nose cone.. before you do this install the rubber seal on this end of the lexan..some hold it with silicone but I use the 3m black weather seal...Trial fit the rubber seal and tape the lexan on both sides so that the rubber goo that squeezes out of the seal does not get on the lexan beyond where it is intended to go...I use good auto paint tape here...Then install the tapered screw on the angle that is attached same as the angle on the left side...now...make a sliding latch that is captured by the aluminum bow that the rear of the lexan lays on...you can make some sort of prop...to hold the lexan open for entry/exit ...i tended to use my head... naturally the right side angle is only attached to the lexan... and it is good to make a stop on the sliding latch such that is cannot rise up the bow..though the slip stream should be fine for that...

Clear as mud? Herb
my cost is usually the price of the lexan...maybe total of 50 bucks..
oops...brakes...I use mountain bike brakes..they come from the salvage yard on bicycles ...front only usually...meaning that one side mounts with cable forward and the other side rearword..
I turn aluminum spindles to mate the disk to the rim..I have good luck using the two piece spun rims...they are true...
The hard part is mounting the caliper...here you need to make an aluminum plate that slides over the axle and mounts to the 4 holes in the large washer that is part of the kolb axle..from here it is a matter of a spacer,trial and error, to get the disk pad/caliper/disk distance correct. a cromolly tube that slips over the axle and sets the distance from disk/rim to caliper... is the spacer..
In the pics..notice that I left too much lexan on the left side..need only be 1/4 inch below the longeron..


On 10/07/2016 01:49 PM, chris davis wrote:

[quote]
 
Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly




On Friday, October 7, 2016 2:34 PM, chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> (capedavis(at)yahoo.com) wrote:



Kolbers i have a couple questions on a Firefly. I flew my Firestar KXP for 10 years without brakes , had almost no trouble on the field i fly out of " Chatham Municipal" 3000 ft asphalt with a full length grass field along side which i used most of the time but I also went to flyins where there was a lot of aircraft taking off and landing never had any trouble as long as I stayed alert and thought ahead! I read most kolb concerned emails on the list and see that most builders go out of there way and risk too much weight to install brakes


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Herbgh(at)nctc.com
Guest





PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 10:04 am    Post subject: Brakes and full enclosure Reply with quote

good for ground handling...mainly...Herb

On 10/08/2016 11:04 AM, chris davis wrote:

Quote:
Herb Thank u for the very complete answer to my full enclosure question Im sure I can build it for a lot less than $300  that Kolb asked for it . Your brakes look great but my question was do I need brakes more on the Firefly than the Firestar? thank u Chris
 
Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly




On Friday, October 7, 2016 8:59 PM, Herb <Herbgh(at)nctc.com> (Herbgh(at)nctc.com) wrote:



slow list Chris...
  I have installed full enclosures on two Fireflys...I did a gull wing enclosure on my MkIII..


   easy to do...the 1/16 lexan just lays over the nose cone... a 4x4 sheet works...was 35 to 40 bucks here in Tenn.. Lay the paper covered lexan over the nose cone and rear bow that you have made and do a rough marking of the size...over sized a bit but to shape ..this makes it easy to clamp and handle. Once the shape is made then move on to mounting..I let the Lexan lay over the nose cone by about 1 and one half inch..enough to allow the rubber seal to clear the front  of the cone a bit... 1/8th inch...will do..

  Making the rear bow is not science...just bend it carefully and try not to go to round such that it is sticking out any further than need be...Guess your shoulders would dictate the bow size..Oval is good..toward flat.on the sides.. The top of this bow is braced by another bow that runs rather horizontal to the cromolly verticals that attach to the spar carry through..this is attached to the cromolly tubes with gussets and that tube and rear bow meet and are gusseted to one another..on the top...

  I install a stop screw and decorative washer at about 10 am.. thru the lexan to the  cone..I raise the lexan up to a comfortable entry position and install that screw...I also note where the lexan is on the rear bow and install large head rivets from there down to the end of the bow on that side(left)  I install a powder coated white angle aluminum on the top of the left longeron and fasten it in maybe three or 4 places then fasten it to the lexan from nose to bow I attach it to the bottom of the rear bow but not to the nose cone....I use the decorative dimpled washer and flush screws there...then once the lexan is down on the right side...I mark the paper covering and install white angle aluminum there also..from  nose cone to bow..At the nose end I install a tapered screw of my own making I flatten or grind it flat  and attach it to the aluminum angle   ..I drill a hole in the nose cone bracket such that the tapered screw fits snugly and holds a good wrap around the nose cone.. before you do this install the rubber seal on this end of the lexan..some hold it with silicone but I use the 3m black weather seal...Trial fit the rubber seal and tape the lexan on both sides so that the rubber goo that squeezes out of the seal does not get on the lexan beyond where it is intended to go...I use good auto paint tape here...Then  install the tapered screw on the angle that is attached same as the angle on the left side...now...make a sliding latch that is captured by the aluminum bow that the rear of the lexan lays on...you can make some sort of prop...to hold the lexan open for entry/exit ...i tended to use my head... naturally the right side angle is only attached to the lexan... and it is good to make a stop on the sliding latch such that is cannot rise up the bow..though the slip stream should be fine for that...

 Clear as mud?  Herb
 my cost is usually the price of the lexan...maybe total of 50 bucks..
 oops...brakes...I use mountain bike brakes..they come from the salvage yard on bicycles ...front only usually...meaning that one side mounts with cable forward and the other side rearword..
   I turn aluminum spindles to mate the disk to the rim..I have good luck using the two piece spun rims...they are true...
 The hard part is mounting the caliper...here you need to make an aluminum plate that slides over the axle and mounts to the 4 holes in the large washer that is part of the kolb axle..from here it is a matter of a spacer,trial and error, to get the disk pad/caliper/disk distance correct. a cromolly tube that slips over the axle and sets the distance from disk/rim  to caliper... is the spacer..
 In the pics..notice that I left too much lexan on the left side..need only be 1/4 inch below the longeron..


On 10/07/2016 01:49 PM, chris davis wrote:

Quote:

 
Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly




On Friday, October 7, 2016 2:34 PM, chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> (capedavis(at)yahoo.com) wrote:



Kolbers i have a couple questions on a Firefly. I flew my Firestar KXP for 10 years without brakes , had almost no trouble on the field i fly out of " Chatham Municipal" 3000 ft asphalt with a full length grass field along side which i used most of the time but I also went to flyins where there was a lot of aircraft taking off and landing never had any trouble as long as I stayed alert and thought ahead! I read most kolb concerned emails on the list and see that most builders go out of there way and risk too much weight to install brakes  . Are they necessary ?On a FIREFLY?
     My next question I prefer a full enclosure and I called Kolb and asked for a price on the full enclosure without the lexan as I have a local supplier for that the price was $308 ? What is included ?
 Looking at the Plans all I can see is about $30 dollars worth of aluminum and a few bolts I think I can build it myself . Is there somthing I am missing ? Just hoping for some input Chris










Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly











--
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny."

Aristotle

"Daddy, tell me...why are you going to the pig farm for a reeducation and what does it mean "A basket of deplorables"? "Are you unreedemable"? And" who is Stalin and Mao Zedong"? Mark Twain's little girl...









--
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny."

Aristotle

"Daddy, tell me...why are you going to the pig farm for a reeducation and what does it mean "A basket of deplorables"? "Are you unreedemable"? And" who is Stalin and Mao Zedong"? Mark Twain's little girl...


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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 11:43 am    Post subject: Brakes and full enclosure Reply with quote

Brakes are good for lots of stuff:

-As Herb mentioned, ground handling, especially in high wind.  Also nice to prevent ground looping in high cross wind conditions.

-Back in the mid 1980s, I landed at Ozark, Alabama, Airport.  The gas pump was downhill from the taxiway.  Had to get out of the US and FS (before I got brakes) and walk the aircraft down to the pump.

-They are also handy for run up and mag  check.

Plenty cross wind in Ely, NV.  Hard to walk from the truck to McDonalds for a hamburger.  Wink

john h
mkIII

From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Herb
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2016 11:59 AM
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Fw: Brakes and full enclosure

good for ground handling...mainly...Herb

On 10/08/2016 11:04 AM, chris davis wrote:
Quote:

Herb Thank u for the very complete answer to my full enclosure question Im sure I can build it for a lot less than $300 that Kolb asked for it . Your brakes look great but my question was do I need brakes more on the Firefly than the Firestar? thank u Chris



Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly


On Friday, October 7, 2016 8:59 PM, Herb <Herbgh(at)nctc.com> (Herbgh(at)nctc.com) wrote:


slow list Chris...

I have installed full enclosures on two Fireflys...I did a gull wing enclosure on my MkIII..



easy to do...the 1/16 lexan just lays over the nose cone... a 4x4 sheet works...was 35 to 40 bucks here in Tenn.. Lay the paper covered lexan over the nose cone and rear bow that you have made and do a rough marking of the size...over sized a bit but to shape ..this makes it easy to clamp and handle. Once the shape is made then move on to mounting..I let the Lexan lay over the nose cone by about 1 and one half inch..enough to allow the rubber seal to clear the front of the cone a bit... 1/8th inch...will do..

Making the rear bow is not science...just bend it carefully and try not to go to round such that it is sticking out any further than need be...Guess your shoulders would dictate the bow size..Oval is good..toward flat.on the sides.. The top of this bow is braced by another bow that runs rather horizontal to the cromolly verticals that attach to the spar carry through..this is attached to the cromolly tubes with gussets and that tube and rear bow meet and are gusseted to one another..on the top...

I install a stop screw and decorative washer at about 10 am.. thru the lexan to the cone..I raise the lexan up to a comfortable entry position and install that screw...I also note where the lexan is on the rear bow and install large head rivets from there down to the end of the bow on that side(left) I install a powder coated white angle aluminum on the top of the left longeron and fasten it in maybe three or 4 places then fasten it to the lexan from nose to bow I attach it to the bottom of the rear bow but not to the nose cone....I use the decorative dimpled washer and flush screws there...then once the lexan is down on the right side...I mark the paper covering and install white angle aluminum there also..from nose cone to bow..At the nose end I install a tapered screw of my own making I flatten or grind it flat and attach it to the aluminum angle ..I drill a hole in the nose cone bracket such that the tapered screw fits snugly and holds a good wrap around the nose cone.. before you do this install the rubber seal on this end of the lexan..some hold it with silicone but I use the 3m black weather seal...Trial fit the rubber seal and tape the lexan on both sides so that the rubber goo that squeezes out of the seal does not get on the lexan beyond where it is intended to go...I use good auto paint tape here...Then install the tapered screw on the angle that is attached same as the angle on the left side...now...make a sliding latch that is captured by the aluminum bow that the rear of the lexan lays on...you can make some sort of prop...to hold the lexan open for entry/exit ...i tended to use my head... naturally the right side angle is only attached to the lexan... and it is good to make a stop on the sliding latch such that is cannot rise up the bow..though the slip stream should be fine for that...

Clear as mud? Herb

my cost is usually the price of the lexan...maybe total of 50 bucks..

oops...brakes...I use mountain bike brakes..they come from the salvage yard on bicycles ...front only usually...meaning that one side mounts with cable forward and the other side rearword..

I turn aluminum spindles to mate the disk to the rim..I have good luck using the two piece spun rims...they are true...

The hard part is mounting the caliper...here you need to make an aluminum plate that slides over the axle and mounts to the 4 holes in the large washer that is part of the kolb axle..from here it is a matter of a spacer,trial and error, to get the disk pad/caliper/disk distance correct. a cromolly tube that slips over the axle and sets the distance from disk/rim to caliper... is the spacer..

In the pics..notice that I left too much lexan on the left side..need only be 1/4 inch below the longeron..


On 10/07/2016 01:49 PM, chris davis wrote:
Quote:



Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly


On Friday, October 7, 2016 2:34 PM, chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> (capedavis(at)yahoo.com) wrote:


Kolbers i have a couple questions on a Firefly. I flew my Firestar KXP for 10 years without brakes , had almost no trouble on the field i fly out of " Chatham Municipal" 3000 ft asphalt with a full length grass field along side which i used most of the time but I also went to flyins where there was a lot of aircraft taking off and landing never had any trouble as long as I stayed alert and thought ahead! I read most kolb concerned emails on the list and see that most builders go out of there way and risk too much weight to install brakes . Are they necessary ?On a FIREFLY?

My next question I prefer a full enclosure and I called Kolb and asked for a price on the full enclosure without the lexan as I have a local supplier for that the price was $308 ? What is included ?

Looking at the Plans all I can see is about $30 dollars worth of aluminum and a few bolts I think I can build it myself . Is there somthing I am missing ? Just hoping for some input Chris











Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly





Quote:
-- "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny." Aristotle "Daddy, tell me...why are you going to the pig farm for a reeducation and what does it mean "A basket of deplorables"? "Are you unreedemable"? And" who is Stalin and Mao Zedong"? Mark Twain's little girl...





<![if !supportLineBreakNewLine]><![endif]>
Quote:
-- "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny." Aristotle "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny."
0
Quote:
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny."
1


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John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 4:54 pm    Post subject: Brakes and full enclosure Reply with quote

Yep...groung handling takes many forms...Smile  Herb

On 10/10/2016 02:42 PM, John Hauck wrote:

Quote:
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Brakes are good for lots of stuff:
 
-As Herb mentioned, ground handling, especially in high wind.  Also nice to prevent ground looping in high cross wind conditions.
 
-Back in the mid 1980s, I landed at Ozark, Alabama, Airport.  The gas pump was downhill from the taxiway.  Had to get out of the US and FS (before I got brakes) and walk the aircraft down to the pump.
 
-They are also handy for run up and mag  check.
 
Plenty cross wind in Ely, NV.  Hard to walk from the truck to McDonalds for a hamburger.  Wink
 
john h
mkIII
 
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Herb
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2016 11:59 AM
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com (kolb-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Fw: Brakes and full enclosure


 
good for ground handling...mainly...Herb
 
On 10/08/2016 11:04 AM, chris davis wrote:
Quote:

Herb Thank u for the very complete answer to my full enclosure question Im sure I can build it for a lot less than $300  that Kolb asked for it . Your brakes look great but my question was do I need brakes more on the Firefly than the Firestar? thank u Chris

 

Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly


 

On Friday, October 7, 2016 8:59 PM, Herb <Herbgh(at)nctc.com> (Herbgh(at)nctc.com) wrote:

 
slow list Chris...

  I have installed full enclosures on two Fireflys...I did a gull wing enclosure on my MkIII..

 

   easy to do...the 1/16 lexan just lays over the nose cone... a 4x4 sheet works...was 35 to 40 bucks here in Tenn.. Lay the paper covered lexan over the nose cone and rear bow that you have made and do a rough marking of the size...over sized a bit but to shape ..this makes it easy to clamp and handle. Once the shape is made then move on to mounting..I let the Lexan lay over the nose cone by about 1 and one half inch..enough to allow the rubber seal to clear the front  of the cone a bit... 1/8th inch...will do..

  Making the rear bow is not science...just bend it carefully and try not to go to round such that it is sticking out any further than need be...Guess your shoulders would dictate the bow size..Oval is good..toward flat.on the sides.. The top of this bow is braced by another bow that runs rather horizontal to the cromolly verticals that attach to the spar carry through..this is attached to the cromolly tubes with gussets and that tube and rear bow meet and are gusseted to one another..on the top...

  I install a stop screw and decorative washer at about 10 am.. thru the lexan to the  cone..I raise the lexan up to a comfortable entry position and install that screw...I also note where the lexan is on the rear bow and install large head rivets from there down to the end of the bow on that side(left)  I install a powder coated white angle aluminum on the top of the left longeron and fasten it in maybe three or 4 places then fasten it to the lexan from nose to bow I attach it to the bottom of the rear bow but not to the nose cone....I use the decorative dimpled washer and flush screws there...then once the lexan is down on the right side...I mark the paper covering and install white angle aluminum there also..from  nose cone to bow..At the nose end I install a tapered screw of my own making I flatten or grind it flat  and attach it to the aluminum angle   ..I drill a hole in the nose cone bracket such that the tapered screw fits snugly and holds a good wrap around the nose cone.. before you do this install the rubber seal on this end of the lexan..some hold it with silicone but I use the 3m black weather seal...Trial fit the rubber seal and tape the lexan on both sides so that the rubber goo that squeezes out of the seal does not get on the lexan beyond where it is intended to go...I use good auto paint tape here...Then  install the tapered screw on the angle that is attached same as the angle on the left side...now...make a sliding latch that is captured by the aluminum bow that the rear of the lexan lays on...you can make some sort of prop...to hold the lexan open for entry/exit ...i tended to use my head... naturally the right side angle is only attached to the lexan... and it is good to make a stop on the sliding latch such that is cannot rise up the bow..though the slip stream should be fine for that...

 Clear as mud?  Herb

 my cost is usually the price of the lexan...maybe total of 50 bucks..

 oops...brakes...I use mountain bike brakes..they come from the salvage yard on bicycles ...front only usually...meaning that one side mounts with cable forward and the other side rearword..

   I turn aluminum spindles to mate the disk to the rim..I have good luck using the two piece spun rims...they are true...

 The hard part is mounting the caliper...here you need to make an aluminum plate that slides over the axle and mounts to the 4 holes in the large washer that is part of the kolb axle..from here it is a matter of a spacer,trial and error, to get the disk pad/caliper/disk distance correct. a cromolly tube that slips over the axle and sets the distance from disk/rim  to caliper... is the spacer..

 In the pics..notice that I left too much lexan on the left side..need only be 1/4 inch below the longeron..

 
On 10/07/2016 01:49 PM, chris davis wrote:
Quote:

 

Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly


 

On Friday, October 7, 2016 2:34 PM, chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> (capedavis(at)yahoo.com) wrote:

 
Kolbers i have a couple questions on a Firefly. I flew my Firestar KXP for 10 years without brakes , had almost no trouble on the field i fly out of " Chatham Municipal" 3000 ft asphalt with a full length grass field along side which i used most of the time but I also went to flyins where there was a lot of aircraft taking off and landing never had any trouble as long as I stayed alert and thought ahead! I read most kolb concerned emails on the list and see that most builders go out of there way and risk too much weight to install brakes  . Are they necessary ?On a FIREFLY?

     My next question I prefer a full enclosure and I called Kolb and asked for a price on the full enclosure without the lexan as I have a local supplier for that the price was $308 ? What is included ?

 Looking at the Plans all I can see is about $30 dollars worth of aluminum and a few bolts I think I can build it myself . Is there somthing I am missing ? Just hoping for some input Chris

 

 

 

 

 

Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly





 





 
Quote:
-- "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny." Aristotle  "Daddy, tell me...why are you going to the pig farm for a reeducation and what does it mean "A basket of deplorables"? "Are you unreedemable"? And" who is Stalin and Mao Zedong"? Mark Twain's little girl...



 





Quote:
-- "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny." Aristotle "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny."
0
Quote:
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny."
1
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny."
2


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Herbgh(at)nctc.com
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 5:07 pm    Post subject: Brakes and full enclosure Reply with quote

haven't had the first brandy!!   groung??

On 10/10/2016 07:54 PM, Herb wrote:

Quote:

Yep...groung handling takes many forms...Smile  Herb

On 10/10/2016 02:42 PM, John Hauck wrote:

Quote:
1024x768 <![endif]--> Clean false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 <![endif]--> <![endif]--> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman","serif";} <![endif]--> <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
Brakes are good for lots of stuff:
 
-As Herb mentioned, ground handling, especially in high wind.  Also nice to prevent ground looping in high cross wind conditions.
 
-Back in the mid 1980s, I landed at Ozark, Alabama, Airport.  The gas pump was downhill from the taxiway.  Had to get out of the US and FS (before I got brakes) and walk the aircraft down to the pump.
 
-They are also handy for run up and mag  check.
 
Plenty cross wind in Ely, NV.  Hard to walk from the truck to McDonalds for a hamburger.  Wink
 
john h
mkIII
 
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Herb
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2016 11:59 AM
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com (kolb-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Fw: Brakes and full enclosure


 
good for ground handling...mainly...Herb
 
On 10/08/2016 11:04 AM, chris davis wrote:
Quote:

Herb Thank u for the very complete answer to my full enclosure question Im sure I can build it for a lot less than $300  that Kolb asked for it . Your brakes look great but my question was do I need brakes more on the Firefly than the Firestar? thank u Chris

 

Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly


 

On Friday, October 7, 2016 8:59 PM, Herb <Herbgh(at)nctc.com> (Herbgh(at)nctc.com) wrote:

 
slow list Chris...

  I have installed full enclosures on two Fireflys...I did a gull wing enclosure on my MkIII..

 

   easy to do...the 1/16 lexan just lays over the nose cone... a 4x4 sheet works...was 35 to 40 bucks here in Tenn.. Lay the paper covered lexan over the nose cone and rear bow that you have made and do a rough marking of the size...over sized a bit but to shape ..this makes it easy to clamp and handle. Once the shape is made then move on to mounting..I let the Lexan lay over the nose cone by about 1 and one half inch..enough to allow the rubber seal to clear the front  of the cone a bit... 1/8th inch...will do..

  Making the rear bow is not science...just bend it carefully and try not to go to round such that it is sticking out any further than need be...Guess your shoulders would dictate the bow size..Oval is good..toward flat.on the sides.. The top of this bow is braced by another bow that runs rather horizontal to the cromolly verticals that attach to the spar carry through..this is attached to the cromolly tubes with gussets and that tube and rear bow meet and are gusseted to one another..on the top...

  I install a stop screw and decorative washer at about 10 am.. thru the lexan to the  cone..I raise the lexan up to a comfortable entry position and install that screw...I also note where the lexan is on the rear bow and install large head rivets from there down to the end of the bow on that side(left)  I install a powder coated white angle aluminum on the top of the left longeron and fasten it in maybe three or 4 places then fasten it to the lexan from nose to bow I attach it to the bottom of the rear bow but not to the nose cone....I use the decorative dimpled washer and flush screws there...then once the lexan is down on the right side...I mark the paper covering and install white angle aluminum there also..from  nose cone to bow..At the nose end I install a tapered screw of my own making I flatten or grind it flat  and attach it to the aluminum angle   ..I drill a hole in the nose cone bracket such that the tapered screw fits snugly and holds a good wrap around the nose cone.. before you do this install the rubber seal on this end of the lexan..some hold it with silicone but I use the 3m black weather seal...Trial fit the rubber seal and tape the lexan on both sides so that the rubber goo that squeezes out of the seal does not get on the lexan beyond where it is intended to go...I use good auto paint tape here...Then  install the tapered screw on the angle that is attached same as the angle on the left side...now...make a sliding latch that is captured by the aluminum bow that the rear of the lexan lays on...you can make some sort of prop...to hold the lexan open for entry/exit ...i tended to use my head... naturally the right side angle is only attached to the lexan... and it is good to make a stop on the sliding latch such that is cannot rise up the bow..though the slip stream should be fine for that...

 Clear as mud?  Herb

 my cost is usually the price of the lexan...maybe total of 50 bucks..

 oops...brakes...I use mountain bike brakes..they come from the salvage yard on bicycles ...front only usually...meaning that one side mounts with cable forward and the other side rearword..

   I turn aluminum spindles to mate the disk to the rim..I have good luck using the two piece spun rims...they are true...

 The hard part is mounting the caliper...here you need to make an aluminum plate that slides over the axle and mounts to the 4 holes in the large washer that is part of the kolb axle..from here it is a matter of a spacer,trial and error, to get the disk pad/caliper/disk distance correct. a cromolly tube that slips over the axle and sets the distance from disk/rim  to caliper... is the spacer..

 In the pics..notice that I left too much lexan on the left side..need only be 1/4 inch below the longeron..

 
On 10/07/2016 01:49 PM, chris davis wrote:
Quote:

 

Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly


 

On Friday, October 7, 2016 2:34 PM, chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> (capedavis(at)yahoo.com) wrote:

 
Kolbers i have a couple questions on a Firefly. I flew my Firestar KXP for 10 years without brakes , had almost no trouble on the field i fly out of " Chatham Municipal" 3000 ft asphalt with a full length grass field along side which i used most of the time but I also went to flyins where there was a lot of aircraft taking off and landing never had any trouble as long as I stayed alert and thought ahead! I read most kolb concerned emails on the list and see that most builders go out of there way and risk too much weight to install brakes  . Are they necessary ?On a FIREFLY?

     My next question I prefer a full enclosure and I called Kolb and asked for a price on the full enclosure without the lexan as I have a local supplier for that the price was $308 ? What is included ?

 Looking at the Plans all I can see is about $30 dollars worth of aluminum and a few bolts I think I can build it myself . Is there somthing I am missing ? Just hoping for some input Chris

 

 

 

 

 

Chris Davis
KXP 503 492 hrs
Glider Pilot
Disabled from crash building Firefly





 





 
Quote:
-- "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny." Aristotle  "Daddy, tell me...why are you going to the pig farm for a reeducation and what does it mean "A basket of deplorables"? "Are you unreedemable"? And" who is Stalin and Mao Zedong"? Mark Twain's little girl...



 





Quote:
-- "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny." Aristotle "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny."
0
Quote:
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny."
1
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny."
2 "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyranny."
3


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