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door fitting query

 
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rowlandcarson(at)gmail.co
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2016 11:34 am    Post subject: door fitting query Reply with quote

Re fitting the doors, chapter 35, page 35-1, of the fine manual says:

"you will need to spring them into place, this is quite normal, the tapered shoot-bolts pull them down to the shape of the fuselage and onto the rubber seal”

My doors do need to be sprung into place but not, as far as I can tell, in the way described above. The curve of the doors does seem to match the shape of the fuselage recess quite well.

I haven’t yet fitted the hinges, but have fettled the door tangs as called out, and the top edge of the door is near to touching the edge of the door recess all the way between the hinge tangs. When I lower it into position, the bottom edge of the door catches slightly on the lower edge of the door recess. It’s possible to spring it slightly to make it fit, but the pressure needed is UP, not DOWN. I don’t feel happy about leaving it thus, for the following reasons.

(1) When the door is sprung into place like that, the central sections of the front and rear window-frames are being pushed out slightly proud of the door recess.

(2) If the door catches on the sill in that way in service, it will destroy the finish on both parts quite quickly.

So, I plan to remove about 1 or 2mm along the bottom edge of the door. Before I get started with the long PermaGrit sanding block, can anyone offer a good reason not to do so?

in friendship

Rowland

| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
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Dave.Glowa(at)termrim.co.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2016 12:01 am    Post subject: door fitting query Reply with quote

Rowland

There is no problem with your proposal just make sure you only take a little off at a time and preferably all round rather than one side, I would advise you to fit the hinges before taking too much off as that in itself can alter the actual fit. If you take too much off one side then you run the risk of the back side of the door catching the fuselage and you cannot put it back once you have sanded it off. Once you have finished fitting the doors check the edges for any air bubbles that may have been exposed and fill them, another worthwhile check is to tap around all the edges and recesses or apply pressure with a hard piece of plastic or wood, this will of the expose any air trapped between the gelcoat and the laminate. This will have been done at the factory when the doors were made but it is always possible to miss one. It is better to do this now rather than find a bubble after it has been painted. You may also have to do a little more trimming and fitting once the Perspex has been fitted as this can also change the fit slightly when the door is clamped in when gluing the Perspex in. When the doors were manufactured they were trimmed in a jig as near as possible without taking too much off, the final fit to be completed by the builder to allow for any discrepancies in the build process by each builder.

Dave Glowa

Ex proprietor of 3D Mouldings, we made all the parts for Europa.


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rowlandcarson(at)gmail.co
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2016 12:32 am    Post subject: door fitting query Reply with quote

On 2016-10-13, at 09:00, Dave Glowa <dave.glowa(at)termrim.co.uk> wrote:
Quote:
There is no problem with your proposal just make sure you only take a little off at a time and preferably all round rather than one side

Dave - thanks for your encouraging reply. There doesn’t appear to be any need to touch the sides of the doors as they seem to be a good fit fore-and-aft. It’s only the very bottom edge that appears to need a trim. I will fit the hinges before starting to remove any material - I hadn’t originally thought of that but it’s obvious now! Thanks too for your other tips about bubbles under the gel-coat.

in friendship

Rowland

| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson


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