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amp gauge

 
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wnorth(at)sdccd.edu
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 11:33 am    Post subject: amp gauge Reply with quote

It sounds like the shunt is wired backwards.

And that won't matter if it's digital or a d'arsonval movement.

Does the unit have an internal shunt or external shunt?

If the big fat wires go to the gauge it has an internal shunt. If so reverse
them.

If it's external then reverse the small wires going from the shunt to the
gauge.

A shunt/gauge wired in the battery to buss line is called an Amp Meter and
reads in plus for battery charging, and in minus for battery discharging.

In this case the entire system load should be no more than 80% of the
generator's continuous rated capacity. The extra 20% is for battery
charging.

If the shunt gauge is wired into the line between the generator and the buss
it is properly called a Load Meter and only reads in the plus for any
generator output, and you can have the system total load equal to the max
continuous load rating of the generator. This is because you can see what
the total output of the generator is using this type of gauge installation
including that which is charging the battery.

In this discussion "generator" includes alternators, it specifically assumes
we are talking about max continuous rated output, which many automotive
alternator ratings do not comply with. (Some of you may argue this, but I've
tested many automotive alternators on the bench and they often over heat at
their rated output eventually, their aircraft cousins don't) And it assumes
you wish to be in compliance with the certified standards, which in this
case do make a lot of sense even though it is not required.

And if one wants to use an amp gauge(reads + & -) for both one can install
two shunts and use a DPDT toggle switch to feed either shunt to the one amp
gauge(in Load Meter mode it just uses the plus side). I usually leave mine
in Load Meter mode, but it is occasionally nice to see what the battery is
doing particularly right after start.

W


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bertrv6(at)highstream.net
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:15 am    Post subject: amp gauge Reply with quote

Quoting Wheeler North <wnorth(at)sdccd.edu>:

Quote:


It sounds like the shunt is wired backwards.

And that won't matter if it's digital or a d'arsonval movement.

Does the unit have an internal shunt or external shunt?

If the big fat wires go to the gauge it has an internal shunt. If so reverse
them.

If it's external then reverse the small wires going from the shunt to the
gauge.

A shunt/gauge wired in the battery to buss line is called an Amp Meter and
reads in plus for battery charging, and in minus for battery discharging.

In this case the entire system load should be no more than 80% of the
generator's continuous rated capacity. The extra 20% is for battery
charging.

If the shunt gauge is wired into the line between the generator and the buss
it is properly called a Load Meter and only reads in the plus for any
generator output, and you can have the system total load equal to the max
continuous load rating of the generator. This is because you can see what
the total output of the generator is using this type of gauge installation
including that which is charging the battery.

In this discussion "generator" includes alternators, it specifically assumes
we are talking about max continuous rated output, which many automotive
alternator ratings do not comply with. (Some of you may argue this, but I've
tested many automotive alternators on the bench and they often over heat at
their rated output eventually, their aircraft cousins don't) And it assumes
you wish to be in compliance with the certified standards, which in this
case do make a lot of sense even though it is not required.

And if one wants to use an amp gauge(reads + & -) for both one can install
two shunts and use a DPDT toggle switch to feed either shunt to the one amp
gauge(in Load Meter mode it just uses the plus side). I usually leave mine
in Load Meter mode, but it is occasionally nice to see what the battery is
doing particularly right after start.

W
Thanks Wheeler:

It was the gauge, it lasted only a year. If the gauge was working
before, it had to be something else I thought..
I have ordered a new one...

Thanks

bert
rv6a

do not archive
Quote:




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