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Crank seal

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glcasey(at)adelphia.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:27 am Post subject: Crank seal

My crank seal spun in the housing (stuck to the shaft).  As I recall  

the technique of replacing a crank seal and making sure it adheres to  

the crankcase is a precise and esoteric one.  Any advice on this  

one?  The engine is a newly-rebuilt IO-540, but there are lots of  

hours on the core.  I assume the rebuilder will cover the cost, but  

he's not here to do the repair.



Gary Casey

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archie97(at)earthlink.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:55 am Post subject: Crank seal

If the case had not been align bored during the rebuilding,

it is possible the seal bore is eccentric, and may not seat well.

A two piece seal is easier to install, but most prefer the one piece.

I have seen seals repeatedly slide out, even with the use of pliobond.

In these cases, have made minor prick punches around the periphery

of the case where the seal grips, and the problem ends.

Also have found that installing on a warm day, (or hangar),

makes the installation a bit easier.

Archie F.

Archie's Racing Service



---

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s_korney(at)hotmail.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 6:54 am Post subject: Crank seal

Sounds like the case seal bore is oversize .... Maybe the seal has spun 

before in the life of that case... The rebuilder probably won't cover the 

cost... Good Luck...



Best... Steve



----Original Message Follows----

From: Gary Casey <glcasey(at)adelphia.net>

Reply-To: lycomingengines-list(at)matronics.com

To: lycomingengines-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Crank seal

Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 06:09:16 -0700




<glcasey(at)adelphia.net>



My crank seal spun in the housing (stuck to the shaft).  As I recall  the 

technique of replacing a crank seal and making sure it adheres to  the 

crankcase is a precise and esoteric one.  Any advice on this  one?  The 

engine is a newly-rebuilt IO-540, but there are lots of  hours on the core.  

I assume the rebuilder will cover the cost, but  he's not here to do the 

repair.



Gary Casey

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FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 7:27 am Post subject: Crank seal

In a message dated 8/15/06 11:00:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 

s_korney(at)hotmail.com writes:



 	  Quote: 	
		   My crank seal spun in the housing (stuck to the shaft).  As I recall  the 

  technique of replacing a crank seal and making sure it adheres to  the 

  crankcase is a precise and esoteric one.  Any advice on this  one?  The 

  engine is a newly-rebuilt IO-540, but there are lots of  hours on the 

core.  
	


 	  Quote: 	
		   

  I assume the rebuilder will cover the cost, but  he's not here to do the 

  repair.

  

  Gary Casey

==============================
	


Gary:



It is a very easy repair.  It is a little time consuming because proper 

installation requires a lot of cleaning.  AND I'd bet Dollar$ to Doughnut$ that is 

where the rebuilder failed.



Order a new seal and you should be able to figure it out just by looking at 

it.  Just remember CLEAN the case extra well.



Barry

"Chop'd Liver"



"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third 

time." 

Yamashiada

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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 7:43 am Post subject: Crank seal

Gary,

  

 I agree with Barry on getting things cleaned really well.

  

 I just did this for the first 2 times (2 separate engines) in the past  2 weeks!  In addition to cleaning the surface where the seal goes really  well (use MEK and a cotton swab) here are a couple more tips.

  

 Your case should have a small groove machined about 1/16 inch behind the  front surface for an uncut seal to fit to.  If you don't have the groove  then the case is probably drilled and tapped for 2 retaining plates to bolt  onto.  This is the old design.  When Divco overhauls the case, I think  they machine the groove for the solid seal.  Be sure this groove is cleaned  out also.  Also smooth out any burrs on the front edge of the case that  could cut the ridge while you are putting the seal in.

  

 As far as I know, the solid seal is the only one with the ridge to fit the  groove.  The split seals are for the old design.  To install the solid  seal, first remove the spring, unhook it, put it on the crank and hook it  back up.  Then boil the seal in water for about 5 minutes.  Have the  crank and bushings free of burrs and put a layer of electrical tape over the  outside edge.  Start the seal by putting a large Phillips screwdriver or  punch through one of the bushings to keep it in place front and back.  Also  have additional protection in the form of a plastic bag over the flange.  I  use a bag that parts are shipped in which mikes about 5 mils.  Use another  large (about 5/16 or 3/8 inch) round screwdriver or punch to get a good  grip on the seal and stretch it like a big rubber band over the  flange.  It takes quite a bit of force to do this.  After it is on the  flange and before it returns to normal size inspect it for nicks or  damage.  In 15 minutes to 1/2 hour it will come back to normal  size and you can put the spring back in it.

  

 Clean the seal and cavity again with MEK but don't let MEK stay on the  seal -- just wipe it with a cloth wetted with MEK.  Put some Pliobond on  both the case and the seal, and slide the seal in.  You may need a  block of wood and a hammer to get it clear in.  (In my case I did it as I  was assembling the case halves.)  It sticks out just a little as you  can see from where the groove is with respect to where the ridge on the  seal is.

  

 After it is installed, I would oil the seal where it slides on the  crankshaft with Marvel Mystery Oil (just my preference) using a small wooden  stick to lift the seal and be sure it gets inside. 

  

  

  

 In a message dated 8/15/2006 11:30:15 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  Gary:



It is a very easy repair.  It is a little time    consuming because proper 

installation requires a lot of cleaning.     AND I'd bet Dollar$ to Doughnut$ that is 

where the rebuilder    failed.



Order a new seal and you should be able to figure it out just    by looking at 

it.  Just remember CLEAN the case extra    well.



Barry

"Chop'd Liver"



"Show them the first time, correct    them the second time, kick them the third 

time."    

Yamashiada



	


 

  

  [quote][b]

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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 7:50 am Post subject: Crank seal

The following reply was sent by mistake.  It was written about a  week ago and is terribly out of date now!

 do not archive

 Dan

  

  

 In a message dated 8/19/2006 11:44:52 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		         

    

    

   Gary,

    

   I agree with Barry on getting things cleaned really well.

    

   I just did this for the first 2 times (2 separate engines) in    the past 2 weeks!  In addition to cleaning the surface where the    seal goes really well (use MEK and a cotton swab) here are a couple more    tips.

    

   Your case should have a small groove machined about 1/16 inch behind the    front surface for an uncut seal to fit to.  If you don't have the groove    then the case is probably drilled and tapped for 2 retaining plates to bolt    onto.  This is the old design.  When Divco overhauls the case, I    think they machine the groove for the solid seal.  Be sure this groove is    cleaned out also.  Also smooth out any burrs on the front edge of the    case that could cut the ridge while you are putting the seal in.

    

   As far as I know, the solid seal is the only one with the ridge to fit    the groove.  The split seals are for the old design.  To install the    solid seal, first remove the spring, unhook it, put it on the crank and    hook it back up.  Then boil the seal in water for about 5 minutes.     Have the crank and bushings free of burrs and put a layer of electrical tape    over the outside edge.  Start the seal by putting a large Phillips    screwdriver or punch through one of the bushings to keep it in place front and    back.  Also have additional protection in the form of a plastic bag over    the flange.  I use a bag that parts are shipped in which mikes about 5    mils.  Use another large (about 5/16 or 3/8 inch) round screwdriver    or punch to get a good grip on the seal and stretch it like a big rubber    band over the flange.  It takes quite a bit of force to do this.     After it is on the flange and before it returns to normal size inspect it for    nicks or damage.  In 15 minutes to 1/2 hour it will come back    to normal size and you can put the spring back in it.

    

   Clean the seal and cavity again with MEK but don't let MEK stay on    the seal -- just wipe it with a cloth wetted with MEK.  Put some Pliobond    on both the case and the seal, and slide the seal in.  You may need    a block of wood and a hammer to get it clear in.  (In my case I did it as    I was assembling the case halves.)  It sticks out just a little as    you can see from where the groove is with respect to where the ridge on    the seal is.

    

   After it is installed, I would oil the seal where it slides on the    crankshaft with Marvel Mystery Oil (just my preference) using a small wooden    stick to lift the seal and be sure it gets inside. 

    

    

    

   In a message dated 8/15/2006 11:30:15 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,    FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com writes:

    	  Quote: 	
		  Gary:



It is a very easy repair.  It is a little time      consuming because proper 

installation requires a lot of cleaning.       AND I'd bet Dollar$ to Doughnut$ that is 

where the rebuilder      failed.



Order a new seal and you should be able to figure it out just      by looking at 

it.  Just remember CLEAN the case extra      well.



Barry

"Chop'd Liver"



"Show them the first time,      correct them the second time, kick them the third 

time."      

Yamashiada



	


   

    

 	  Quote: 	
		  



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