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naumuk(at)alltel.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 3:22 pm Post subject: Polishing |
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All-
If you decide to polish, do you still have to prep the entire plane, or just the painted trim sections?
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
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gboothe(at)calply.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 7:17 pm Post subject: Polishing |
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Early model C180's and Beech Bonanza's were a combination of paint and
polished aluminum. Does anyone have any ideas how, or know how, that was
done?
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
Bill, the polished aircraft I have seen are totaly "naked".
There is no prep, only polishing paste and, sometimes wax (I'm guessing).
As for the trim, I presume these days most people use the adhesive type, so
no prep would be
required either.
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
--- Bill Naumuk <naumuk(at)alltel.net> a écrit :
Quote: | All-
If you decide to polish, do you still have to prep the entire plane,
or just the painted
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Quote: | trim sections?
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
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__________________________________________________________
Lèche-vitrine ou lèche-écran ?
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naumuk(at)alltel.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 2:48 pm Post subject: Polishing |
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Gary-
Same question I have put differently.
How do you polish the 95% of the structure that looks good, but cover
up the leading edge and wing tips (Which is where all the problems seem to
occur) without affecting flight characteristics or removing painted trim?
There's a C120 in this month's SA that's configured this way. Of course,
there's no sense asking the owner, because the 120 was a rag wing.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
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gboothe(at)calply.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 3:07 pm Post subject: Polishing |
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Bill,
Sorry, I didn't mean to re-phrase your question as you were quite clear, but
I asked this of the list over a week ago and nobody had a response. Just
thought I'd try again, on top of your question.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
Gary-
Same question I have put differently.
How do you polish the 95% of the structure that looks good, but cover
up the leading edge and wing tips (Which is where all the problems seem to
occur) without affecting flight characteristics or removing painted trim?
There's a C120 in this month's SA that's configured this way. Of course,
there's no sense asking the owner, because the 120 was a rag wing.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
---
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naumuk(at)alltel.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 3:42 pm Post subject: Polishing |
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Gary-
Cripes, don't apologize- you didn't step on my toes. Just seems like it
takes forever to get a straight answer from the list lately.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
---
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tshank(at)core.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 7:18 pm Post subject: Polishing |
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Gary,
If your question is how to polish there are many commercial products available. The one I used was Nuvite, they have a display every year up at Osh. As I may have all ready said on this list I found the "secret" to polishing especially "old" several years, aluminum was to first wet the aluminum with mineral spirits (paint thinner) then use the Nuvite. I don't think I spent any more time polishing then I would to prep and paint the airplane. What I like is if there is some part I don't think is good enough or has gotten damaged I can just rebuff it and I never have to worry about matching the color.
Tim Shankland
Gary Boothe wrote: [quote] Quote: | --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe(at)calply.com> (gboothe(at)calply.com)
Early model C180's and Beech Bonanza's were a combination of paint and
polished aluminum. Does anyone have any ideas how, or know how, that was
done?
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
--> Zenith-List message posted by: Carlos Sa <carlosfsa(at)yahoo.com> (carlosfsa(at)yahoo.com)
Bill, the polished aircraft I have seen are totaly "naked".
There is no prep, only polishing paste and, sometimes wax (I'm guessing).
As for the trim, I presume these days most people use the adhesive type, so
no prep would be
required either.
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
--- Bill Naumuk <naumuk(at)alltel.net> (naumuk(at)alltel.net) a écrit :
Quote: | All-
If you decide to polish, do you still have to prep the entire plane,
| or just the painted
Quote: | trim sections?
do not archive
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
|
__________________________________________________________
Lèche-vitrine ou lèche-écran ?
| [b]
| - The Matronics Zenith-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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naumuk(at)alltel.net Guest
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Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 6:40 am Post subject: Polishing |
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Tim-
Will corrosion protectant stick to a polished surface? If it will, between Carlo's comments and yours, I just might totally change my mind about painting. I've got 3 stinkin' skins out of the whole lot that have some corrosion- and it's on the interior surface. It would take no more time to polish the crud off than to strip it off, at about the same expense. The only place I'd have to paint would be the wing and stab tips. I could use adhesive trim to cover up my one smiley on the stab leading edge and just put a rivet in the stray hole in my right outboard. Only a Zenith builder would know it didn't belong there!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
[quote]
Quote: | Quote: |
__________________________________________________________
Lèche-vitrine ou lèche-écran ?
|
| [b]
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tshank(at)core.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 10:36 am Post subject: Polishing |
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Bill,
I'm kind of guessing here but I think it would stick if you cleaned off any residue oils that are in the polish. I polished the exterior of my plane and only primed the mating internal surfaces. I also use the demon zinc chromate primer, stuff woks great and I've been using it for over forty years. There is a weight advantage to polishing, there has been some debate but it is probably 20 to 30 pounds lighter.
Tim Shankland
Bill Naumuk wrote:
[quote] Tim-
Will corrosion protectant stick to a polished surface? If it will, between Carlo's comments and yours, I just might totally change my mind about painting. I've got 3 stinkin' skins out of the whole lot that have some corrosion- and it's on the interior surface. It would take no more time to polish the crud off than to strip it off, at about the same expense. The only place I'd have to paint would be the wing and stab tips. I could use adhesive trim to cover up my one smiley on the stab leading edge and just put a rivet in the stray hole in my right outboard. Only a Zenith builder would know it didn't belong there!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
Quote: |
Quote: | Quote: |
__________________________________________________________
Lèche-vitrine ou lèche-écran ?
|
|
| [b]
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naumuk(at)alltel.net Guest
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Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 3:09 pm Post subject: Polishing |
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Tim-
Considering that except for the 3 skins with interior corrosion I'd be working with virgin aluminum, could I just use the finish polish or is there a definite benefit to using the grade 2 first? I've made up my mind to polish the airframe and trim the leading edges and tips.
Also, how much am I going to need? ACS lists the stuff in 1/2lb cans. I figure if I order tonight, my building progress and the arrival of the polish will coincide.
Thanks big time.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
[quote] ---
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tshank(at)core.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 5:39 pm Post subject: Polishing |
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Bill,
I did the whole plane with a little over 1 lb of of the F8 and 1/2 lb of the C and S. The only way to tell what you need is to try it . If you can start with the C and get a good finish go with it. I had to do three passes of F8 and all top parts and two on the bottom part, you can't see them as well. Then one of C and one of S. When I was done with a part it was usually like a mirror. Interestingly the bottom of the plane is like a full length mirror when you are laying under it, this has a lot to do with it being a very flat surface. If your aluminum is in good shape it won't take too much, the 1/2 lb cans should be enough and you can always order more. If you have been to Osh. and watched the demo or talked to the people at Nuvite they will tell you it is important not to use too much. You just dip the end of your finger in and make six or nine dabs on the aluminum. Spread it around with the bonnet then buff. If you are using the F8 you should us wool bonnets that are not looped. If you go to Nuvite's web site or look at their brochure all this is explained.
Tim
Bill Naumuk wrote: [quote] Tim-
Considering that except for the 3 skins with interior corrosion I'd be working with virgin aluminum, could I just use the finish polish or is there a definite benefit to using the grade 2 first? I've made up my mind to polish the airframe and trim the leading edges and tips.
Also, how much am I going to need? ACS lists the stuff in 1/2lb cans. I figure if I order tonight, my building progress and the arrival of the polish will coincide.
Thanks big time.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
Quote: | ----- Original Message -----
From: Tim & Diane Shankland (tshank(at)core.com)
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com (zenith-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: Polishing
Bill,
I'm kind of guessing here but I think it would stick if you cleaned off any residue oils that are in the polish. I polished the exterior of my plane and only primed the mating internal surfaces. I also use the demon zinc chromate primer, stuff woks great and I've been using it for over forty years. There is a weight advantage to polishing, there has been some debate but it is probably 20 to 30 pounds lighter.
Tim Shankland
Bill Naumuk wrote:
Quote: | Tim-
Will corrosion protectant stick to a polished surface? If it will, between Carlo's comments and yours, I just might totally change my mind about painting. I've got 3 stinkin' skins out of the whole lot that have some corrosion- and it's on the interior surface. It would take no more time to polish the crud off than to strip it off, at about the same expense. The only place I'd have to paint would be the wing and stab tips. I could use adhesive trim to cover up my one smiley on the stab leading edge and just put a rivet in the stray hole in my right outboard. Only a Zenith builder would know it didn't belong there!
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
Quote: |
Quote: | Quote: |
__________________________________________________________
Lèche-vitrine ou lèche-écran ?
|
|
|
|
| [b]
| - The Matronics Zenith-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List |
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