Matronics Email Lists :: View topic - Closing gap in Flap Actuator to Fuselage interface

Matronics Email Lists
Web Forum Interface to the Matronics Email Lists

Get Email Distribution Too! FAQ Search Memberlist Usergroups Register

Profile Log in to check your private messages Log in

Closing gap in Flap Actuator to Fuselage interface

Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> RV-List

View previous topic :: View next topic

Author Message

matthew(at)n523rv.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 9:24 am Post subject: Closing gap in Flap Actuator to Fuselage interface

Funny.. was just  thinking about this very thing now that we are approaching winter and I'm  attempting to draft proof the RV.  (Wife complained last winter the heat  doesn't work good enough.)

  

 My thought was to  take some baffle material as you suggested, cut out an appropriate sized hole  with a slit somewhere to slip it over the flap tube and then just glue it or pop  rivet it in place.  Let me know if you come up with a better  idea.

  

    

 Matthew

 N523RV ::  RV-9A :: 129 hours 

 http://www.n523rv.com

   [quote][b]

- The Matronics RV-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

Albert Gardner

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 455
Location: Yuma, AZ

Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 10:03 am Post subject: Closing gap in Flap Actuator to Fuselage interface

Most RV’s don’t do anything. Several have made wing root fairings that extend over the flap and cover the hole from above-mainly for appearance. Fortunately, not much slush here in Yuma, even in the dead of winter. Haven’t had any sand get in though.  

Albert Gardner  

Yuma, AZ  

RV-9A N872RV  

   

--

- The Matronics RV-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

_________________
RV-9A N872RV
RV-10 N991RV

rv9jim(at)juno.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 10:41 am Post subject: Closing gap in Flap Actuator to Fuselage interface

Matt,

        I haven't gotten that far but a "bellows" arrangement would be

better in making up for vertical and horizontal motion of the flap

actuator rod as it goes thru the fuselage.  Even if it was not a bellows

a long very thin rubber sleeve would work for air infiltration.  I got

something like that from "Orvendorfer" (sp) for controlling air coming

into the fuselage below the floor and under your seat.  A nylon fabric

that will not let air thru works.  You get the idea.



Jim

RV9-A FWF

- The Matronics RV-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 5:12 pm Post subject: Closing gap in Flap Actuator to Fuselage interface

In a message dated 10/12/06 1:27:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 

matthew(at)n523rv.com writes:



 	  Quote: 	
		   My thought was to take some baffle material as you suggested, cut out an

  appropriate sized hole with a slit somewhere to slip it over the flap tube

  and then just glue it or pop rivet it in place.  Let me know if you come up

  with a better idea.

   

   

  Matthew

======================
	


Matt:



After spending two years asking question, plugging holes and making diverters 

in the hopes of curing the CO problem that many if not al lRV-6's have ... I 

have finally come up with a solution.  It works and it is cheep, yet I have 

not solved the UGLY part of the problem.

The solution was two curved down exhaust pipes from a local auto shop.  They 

are held on with 'U' Clamps and a hunk of safety wire.  The only good thing I 

can say about this is there is ZERO CO in the cabin.  



I have tried making bellow boots to cover the flap rod, adding a rear facing 

scupper scoop back by the tail, all sorts of diverters in different positions 

and sizes, extra cowl flaps, the hole punched exhaust tips, lowering and 

raising the exhaust pipes.  NOTHING worked.  Except the two curved down exhaust 

pipes.  They give the sound of POWER and maybe even a bit of real useful power 

also.



Barry

"Chop'd Liver"

RV-6

- The Matronics RV-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

shempdowling(at)earthlink
Guest

Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 6:50 am Post subject: Closing gap in Flap Actuator to Fuselage interface

I remember seeing someone using one of those foam paint brushes to seal

that gap.  Havent tried it yet though.

Shemp

FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 In a message dated 10/12/06 1:27:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 

 matthew(at)n523rv.com writes:

> My thought was to take some baffle material as you suggested, cut out an

>  appropriate sized hole with a slit somewhere to slip it over the flap tube

>  and then just glue it or pop rivet it in place.  Let me know if you come up

>  with a better idea.

>   

>   

>  Matthew

>     

 ======================

 Matt:

 After spending two years asking question, plugging holes and making diverters 

 in the hopes of curing the CO problem that many if not al lRV-6's have ... I 

 have finally come up with a solution.  It works and it is cheep, yet I have 

 not solved the UGLY part of the problem.

 The solution was two curved down exhaust pipes from a local auto shop.  They 

 are held on with 'U' Clamps and a hunk of safety wire.  The only good thing I 

 can say about this is there is ZERO CO in the cabin.  

 I have tried making bellow boots to cover the flap rod, adding a rear facing 

 scupper scoop back by the tail, all sorts of diverters in different positions 

 and sizes, extra cowl flaps, the hole punched exhaust tips, lowering and 

 raising the exhaust pipes.  NOTHING worked.  Except the two curved down exhaust 

 pipes.  They give the sound of POWER and maybe even a bit of real useful power 

 also.

 Barry

 "Chop'd Liver"

 RV-6

- The Matronics RV-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

Display posts from previous:

	Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> RV-List	All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Page 1 of 1

Jump to:

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum