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heat muffs and electrolysis
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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 2:25 pm    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

I had a question earlier today (while flying) regarding the use of pot
scrubbers in a heat muff...if you put a copper scrubber into an
aluminum heat muff, is there a resulting electrolysis action that takes
place? Is this a problem? Are stainless scrubbers less immune? (my
guess is yes)
I realize that my heat muffs (alum) are clamped around the stainless
steel exhaust pipe, but I have to accept this fact.
How do the pot scrubbers pick up the heat from the exhaust pipe, seeing
as it does not touch it in very many places...as least not as much as a
clamped-on finned device (that I built) would?
I'll accept the fact that many of you have tried the scrubbers and they
work, but I'd like to know the physics of it all.

Lynn
Kitfox IV Speedster...Jabiru 2200


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dave



Joined: 22 Sep 2006
Posts: 1382

PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:27 pm    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

Lynn,

They slow the air down going through the heated airspace.
If you don't have them, you will get cooler air coming through.
Dave
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 3:41 pm    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

I don't have the time to go into details, but
sometimes turbulence is a good thing. Maybe someone
else can take over from there?

Kurt S.

--- Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> wrote:

Quote:
How do the pot scrubbers pick up the heat from the
exhaust pipe, seeing
as it does not touch it in very many places...as
least not as much as a
clamped-on finned device (that I built) would?
I'll accept the fact that many of you have tried the
scrubbers and they
work, but I'd like to know the physics of it all.

Lynn
Kitfox IV Speedster...Jabiru 2200

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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 4:51 pm    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

I realize that, Dave...that they slow down the air and therefore the
air heats up. That is why I built some baffles that have fins
protruding from them, and the fins are offset, thereby making the air
slow down, go around the fins, picking up heat, etc. My finned baffles
are in direct contact with the exhaust pipe. Maybe I should have
explained this when I asked the question. I know the principle of how
the scrubbers work, what I wanted to know was how do the scrubbers PICK
UP the heat from the exhaust pipe when they have so very little surface
area in contact with the pipe. Maybe you guys stuffed the scrubbers in
your muffs very tightly, thereby creating a lot of conduction heat
pickup...did you? (those that have tried the scrubbers?)

Lynn

On Friday, October 20, 2006, at 07:25 PM, Dave wrote:

[quote]

Lynn,
They slow the air down going through the heated airspace. If you don't
have them, you will get cooler air coming through.
Dave

---


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dave



Joined: 22 Sep 2006
Posts: 1382

PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 5:04 pm    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

Lynn, I do not know if conductivity has much to do with it.

The first one i did , well I found thats air was not cold but cool - NOT
HOT.
If was Paul Seehafer that told me to put pot scrubbers in and KApow BATMAN
I had more heat than i needed.
Springs will work as well. Maybe it does conduct but I think the main
purpose is to slow the air down so that it can get heated on the way by.

I guess when you think of a radiator and the fins from core tubes that
conductivity does in fact come in to play.
Dave
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 5:47 pm    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

In the plastic airplanes, when cooling is an issue, one thing they try is to
reduce the size of the inlet openings. This slows down the air through the
cylinder fins and aids in the cooling.

We have discussed this in the past regarding the ideal inlet vs. outlet
size - points to the Kitfoxl list. I noticed this week as we were
installing the cowl and baffeling on the Lancair IV that the inlet and
outlets are, for practical purposes, the same size. I am anticipating
cooling issues when Brad starts flying. I guess that is why they often will
fly in primer for a year or so to make this sort of adjustment less
painfull.

Frankly, and this is just between us, for all its speed and mystique, I
didn't find the airplane very sophisticated. Lots of little issues that
are just not found in the Kitfox kit or manual. One small example, AN365
nuts everywhere regardless of application. Easier to put together the kits
and less inventory, but costly in weight. Another thing and this might be
really off base, but the same signals that suggested Skystar's problems
early on are surfacing at Lancair. Lots of key people leaving, and very
little in stock - lots of back orders. Oh, well, 90% done and 99% to go.

Lowell
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 6:49 pm    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

Lynn,

On the heat transfer with the scrubbers - its a multi deal thing....

1) Conduction - some of the heat travels through the metal where the scrubber
touches the pipe so the scrubber gains some heat which it can then transfer
to the air because it has additional surface area.
2) Radiation - with the scrubber metal anywhere near the pipe - a lot of heat
is picked up by the scrubber simply through radiation - try holding your hand
within a inch of a red hot exhaust pipe - bet it will feel hot even if you
don't actually touch it - same thing happens with the scrubber metal that is
not touching the pipe, after which the scrubber metal can then transfer the
heat to the air mass flowing by.
3) Forced convection - or simply the fact that air picks up heat from the pipe
and then distributes it within the air/scrubber matrix - the slowing down of
the air and the mixing/spreading/turbulence of the air flow accomplishes
this.

Just Good Old Norwegian Physics......

Dave S

On Friday 20 October 2006 5:26 pm, Lynn Matteson wrote:
Quote:


I had a question earlier today (while flying) regarding the use of pot
scrubbers in a heat muff...if you put a copper scrubber into an
aluminum heat muff, is there a resulting electrolysis action that takes
place? Is this a problem? Are stainless scrubbers less immune? (my
guess is yes)
I realize that my heat muffs (alum) are clamped around the stainless
steel exhaust pipe, but I have to accept this fact.
How do the pot scrubbers pick up the heat from the exhaust pipe, seeing
as it does not touch it in very many places...as least not as much as a
clamped-on finned device (that I built) would?
I'll accept the fact that many of you have tried the scrubbers and they
work, but I'd like to know the physics of it all.

Lynn
Kitfox IV Speedster...Jabiru 2200


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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:08 pm    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

I do know that when I worked at the Chrysler wind tunnel about 30
years a go, that we would test radiators with various numbers of fins
per inch of core-tube length. The numbers that I recall were 4 and 5
fins per inch. We, as mechanics and "installers" of the experimental
radiators, only knew that we were installing rad "x" or rad "y", and
that they were different. We'd put the rad on the car, in the tunnel,
then go back to our other mundane chores while the engineers ran the
tests. What we learned was that
rad "x" ran hotter, but was cheaper to produce because it had less fins
and that equaled more money in Chrysler's pocket, or a less expensive
product to sell. And of course, all those fins were in contact with the
coolant tubes, picked up their heat, and dissipated it into the air
that passed through. In the variety of fins that I have witnessed over
the years are: wavy fins, fins with "star"-shaped holes punched through
them, and fins set at an angle, causing the air to go through the
radiator at an angle, slowing the air, and thereby picking up more
heat, and of course, more or less fins per inch of tube length. But in
all these cases, the fin was in contact with the cooling tubes drawing
heat away from the tube, and presenting it to the air for removal. In
the case of our scrubbers, I just don't see the physical contact with
the exhaust pipe as the way the heat is picked up. I guess I'll just
have to accept the fact that the air is slowed down by sheer blockage,
and it picks up heat that is radiated out from the pipe and let it go
at that....good enough.

Lynn

On Friday, October 20, 2006, at 09:02 PM, Dave wrote:

Quote:


Lynn, I do not know if conductivity has much to do with it.

The first one i did , well I found thats air was not cold but cool -
NOT HOT.
If was Paul Seehafer that told me to put pot scrubbers in and KApow
BATMAN I had more heat than i needed.
Springs will work as well. Maybe it does conduct but I think the
main purpose is to slow the air down so that it can get heated on the
way by.

I guess when you think of a radiator and the fins from core tubes that
conductivity does in fact come in to play.
Dave


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Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM
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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:18 pm    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

Is there a reverse-venturi shape to the outlet, Lowell? The Jabiru
people say that the best outlet shape has a lip that splays out so as
the air is leaving the cowl, a slight vacuum is formed helping to pull
the warmed air from inside the cowl. This may be common knowledge among
aircraft people, but thought I'd mention it. That, and the old 3:1
ratio of outlet air to inlet air in area comparison....which is
probably why you just mentioned anticipating cooling issues.

Lynn
On Friday, October 20, 2006, at 09:46 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote:

Quote:


In the plastic airplanes, when cooling is an issue, one thing they try
is to reduce the size of the inlet openings. This slows down the air
through the cylinder fins and aids in the cooling.

We have discussed this in the past regarding the ideal inlet vs.
outlet size - points to the Kitfoxl list. I noticed this week as we
were installing the cowl and baffeling on the Lancair IV that the
inlet and outlets are, for practical purposes, the same size. I am
anticipating cooling issues when Brad starts flying. I guess that is
why they often will fly in primer for a year or so to make this sort
of adjustment less painfull.

Frankly, and this is just between us, for all its speed and mystique,
I didn't find the airplane very sophisticated. Lots of little
issues that are just not found in the Kitfox kit or manual. One
small example, AN365 nuts everywhere regardless of application.
Easier to put together the kits and less inventory, but costly in
weight. Another thing and this might be really off base, but the
same signals that suggested Skystar's problems early on are surfacing
at Lancair. Lots of key people leaving, and very little in stock -
lots of back orders. Oh, well, 90% done and 99% to go.

Lowell


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N369LM
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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:27 pm    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

That works for me, Dave....now how about the possible electrolysis
thing with the previously-mentioned copper scrubbers? It was mentioned
that they really worked well, and I wondered if they worked well enough
to chance risking a possible electrolysis problem due to the
interaction between the copper scrubbers and (my) aluminum heat muff?

Lynn
On Friday, October 20, 2006, at 10:03 PM, Dave and Diane wrote:

Quote:

<ddsyverson(at)comcast.net>

Lynn,

On the heat transfer with the scrubbers - its a multi deal thing....

1) Conduction - some of the heat travels through the metal where the
scrubber
touches the pipe so the scrubber gains some heat which it can then
transfer
to the air because it has additional surface area.
2) Radiation - with the scrubber metal anywhere near the pipe - a lot
of heat
is picked up by the scrubber simply through radiation - try holding
your hand
within a inch of a red hot exhaust pipe - bet it will feel hot even if
you
don't actually touch it - same thing happens with the scrubber metal
that is
not touching the pipe, after which the scrubber metal can then
transfer the
heat to the air mass flowing by.
3) Forced convection - or simply the fact that air picks up heat from
the pipe
and then distributes it within the air/scrubber matrix - the slowing
down of
the air and the mixing/spreading/turbulence of the air flow
accomplishes
this.

Just Good Old Norwegian Physics......

Dave S


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 8:03 pm    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

Guy and Lynn,

No cowl flap, but there is sort of a tunnel - exhaust in each - on each side
where the cowl extends below the fuselage contour a bit. Nice thing about
this project for me is that I am labor only. Issues? I just wait for the
heads-up from Brad. I give opinion, but the decisions are his. Yes!
Through every part of the project I have been very happy my airplane is a
Kitfox.

Lowell

Do Not Archive

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2006 10:13 pm    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

The old WW-I Jenny had a radiator where the water only
went around the outer ring. The entire center was
only conductor. Seems the heat would transfer a long
ways from the contacted surface.

I think in the case of the scrubbers, they not only
slow the air down but mix it so that more air has a
chance to contact heated surfaces. As was mentioned,
radiation has more time to work too.

My air coming from my oil cooler only rises about 10
degrees in temperature. I planned to use it for cabin
heat. Looks like I'll have to lower the airspeed thru
the cooler to get much heat out of it in winter.
Scrubbers aren't adjustable enough. Smile

Kurt S. S-5

--- Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> wrote:

Quote:
I realize that, Dave...that they slow down the air
and therefore the
air heats up. That is why I built some baffles that
have fins
protruding from them, and the fins are offset,
thereby making the air
slow down, go around the fins, picking up heat, etc.
My finned baffles
are in direct contact with the exhaust pipe. Maybe I
should have
explained this when I asked the question. I know the
principle of how
the scrubbers work, what I wanted to know was how do
the scrubbers PICK
UP the heat from the exhaust pipe when they have so
very little surface
area in contact with the pipe. Maybe you guys
stuffed the scrubbers in
your muffs very tightly, thereby creating a lot of
conduction heat
pickup...did you? (those that have tried the
scrubbers?)

Lynn

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dave



Joined: 22 Sep 2006
Posts: 1382

PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 2:02 am    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

Lynn , I am not familiar with metal interaction between copper/brass
with Aluminum at all.
That being said for pot scrubbers you would think that copper would be a
better conductor than Stainless Steel.
In this application I have not idea if one would be better than another (SS
versus Copper )
I found this it matters
"1) University of Sherbrooke, Sherbrooke, Canada
Abstract The surface pitting of copper conductors recovered from fire
debris has been reproduced by laboratory tests. The results of these tests
demonstrate that molten aluminum that comes in contact with copper
conductors drastically reduces the melting point of copper by alloying. "
Dave
---


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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 4:55 am    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

It's raining here today...a perfect day to change my tailwheel spring
to the new 3-leaf, and to install some scrubbers in one heat muff for a
trial test...I can't wait...wish I had an airplane wind tunnel so I
didn't have to wait for good weather to test. : )

What, Kurt, you don't think snipping out some of those strands of
scrubber "wire" is an adjustment? : )

Lynn
do not archive
On Saturday, October 21, 2006, at 02:12 AM, kurt schrader wrote:

Quote:

<smokey_bear_40220(at)yahoo.com>

The old WW-I Jenny had a radiator where the water only
went around the outer ring. The entire center was
only conductor. Seems the heat would transfer a long
ways from the contacted surface.

I think in the case of the scrubbers, they not only
slow the air down but mix it so that more air has a
chance to contact heated surfaces. As was mentioned,
radiation has more time to work too.

My air coming from my oil cooler only rises about 10
degrees in temperature. I planned to use it for cabin
heat. Looks like I'll have to lower the airspeed thru
the cooler to get much heat out of it in winter.
Scrubbers aren't adjustable enough. Smile

Kurt S. S-5

--- Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt(at)jps.net> wrote:

> I realize that, Dave...that they slow down the air
> and therefore the
> air heats up. That is why I built some baffles that
> have fins
> protruding from them, and the fins are offset,
> thereby making the air
> slow down, go around the fins, picking up heat, etc.
> My finned baffles
> are in direct contact with the exhaust pipe. Maybe I
> should have
> explained this when I asked the question. I know the
> principle of how
> the scrubbers work, what I wanted to know was how do
> the scrubbers PICK
> UP the heat from the exhaust pipe when they have so
> very little surface
> area in contact with the pipe. Maybe you guys
> stuffed the scrubbers in
> your muffs very tightly, thereby creating a lot of
> conduction heat
> pickup...did you? (those that have tried the
> scrubbers?)
>
> Lynn

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Lynn Matteson



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan

PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 5:20 am    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

Without knowing any more than I do about electricity/electrolysis, I
think I'll forego looking for the copper scrubbers and use the steel(?)
ones that I bought yesterday for the first test. It would be nice to
test copper in one muff and SS in the other, though....what the hell,
I'm sure a short test like this would not cause enough of a problem as
to bring the plane down. Far from that, perhaps a little pitting where
the copper contacted the aluminum is all that I can imagine...we'll
see. As soon as the west coast wakes up, I've got an electrical
engineer friend "on retainer" that might be able to shed some light on
this.

Lynn
do not archive

On Saturday, October 21, 2006, at 06:01 AM, Dave wrote:

Quote:


Lynn , I am not familiar with metal interaction between
copper/brass with Aluminum at all.
That being said for pot scrubbers you would think that copper would
be a better conductor than Stainless Steel.
In this application I have not idea if one would be better than
another (SS versus Copper )
I found this it matters
"1) University of Sherbrooke, Sherbrooke, Canada
Abstract The surface pitting of copper conductors recovered from fire
debris has been reproduced by laboratory tests. The results of these
tests demonstrate that molten aluminum that comes in contact with
copper conductors drastically reduces the melting point of copper by
alloying. "
Dave


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 6:09 am    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

Aluminum and copper or brass are close in the electromotive chart.
Steel is not a good used with Al. My 84 172 had stainless pads in the
air intakes to keep out the bugs. Never saw any corrosion, but there
was no heat at the leading edge intakes. If the muffler is stainless
then use stainless pads If the thing is Al then use copper or brass.
If the shroud is Al and the muffler is stainless or other steel you
already have a corrosion issue that wont be exacerbated by any kind of pad.
Hope this helps, Paul
===================
At 04:01 AM 10/21/2006, you wrote:
[quote]

Lynn , I am not familiar with metal interaction between
copper/brass with Aluminum at all.
That being said for pot scrubbers you would think that copper would
be a better conductor than Stainless Steel.
In this application I have not idea if one would be better than
another (SS versus Copper )
I found this it matters
"1) University of Sherbrooke, Sherbrooke, Canada
Abstract The surface pitting of copper conductors recovered from
fire debris has been reproduced by laboratory tests. The results of
these tests demonstrate that molten aluminum that comes in contact
with copper conductors drastically reduces the melting point of
copper by alloying. "
Dave
---


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Float Flyr



Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 7:32 am    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

I think most (not all) the dissimilar metal corrosion will occur on the
softer metal. E.g. Aluminium in contact with steel given sufficient heat
and moisture the aluminium will corrode more than the steel. The pot
scrubbers are stainless steel as is the muffler. It is ,no doubt, not the
same kind of stainless steel but they are probably close enough together
that wear and corrosion should be minimal..... Check it every twenty or so
years. Wink

Noel

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Float Flyr



Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 7:34 am    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

They also work as heating fins ... They help to transmit heat from the
muffler into the air inside the muff.

Noel

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dave



Joined: 22 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 7:47 am    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

If we worrying about metal interaction in a heater we need to focus on
better things in life ... Like flying -- i got 2 hours in this am so far
Smile

Dave

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Float Flyr



Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

PostPosted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 7:53 am    Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis Reply with quote

I see there is some question as to whether or not the pot scrubbers actually
transfer heat or just slow down the airflow so more heat can be absorbed
directly into the air from the muffler.

I have thought up a little experiment for you to try. This is a simple do
it at home test that the XYL (Mrs) can help you with. Put a pot scrubber in
a cast iron skillet and let it warm up for say five minutes then remove the
scrubber from the pan and insert a meat thermometer into it. It the
temperature on the thermometer rises then the scrubber will have absorbed
some of the heat from the skillet. I advise you not to try to handle the
pot scrubber with your bare hands. Let it sit for a minute or two then
touch it with your fingers.... It should still be warm.

Do not use any oils or spices in this recipe.

Bonne Appetite

Noel

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