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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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 Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 7:54 am Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis |
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Spot on too!
Noel
| Quote: | Just Good Old Norwegian Physics......
Dave S
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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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| Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 7:58 am Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis |
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Not too good an idea to use aluminium any where near a heat source. I don't
think you will have any problem with the scrubbers or your muffler (similar
metals) but the muff it self (dis-similar aluminium) could be a trouble spot
for corrosion and shape distortion because of heat.
Noel
[quote] --
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Lynn Matteson
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan
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| Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 10:53 am Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis |
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What I have is: no muffler involved...is its sending it's heat to the
carb, when needed.
I have stainless steel exhaust pipes, to which I've attached (think
clam shell, wrap-around) an aluminum heat muff, and later installed
alum baffles inside that. The current question is what kind of material
should be used for the scrubbers inside that alum heat muff? It sounds
like because I already have an alum muff in contact with a SS pipe,
that the addition of the SS scrubber pads, or copper, will not create
a problem that is not already there.
Lynn
On Saturday, October 21, 2006, at 10:03 AM, PWilson wrote:
[quote]
Aluminum and copper or brass are close in the electromotive chart.
Steel is not a good used with Al. My 84 172 had stainless pads in the
air intakes to keep out the bugs. Never saw any corrosion, but there
was no heat at the leading edge intakes. If the muffler is stainless
then use stainless pads If the thing is Al then use copper or brass.
If the shroud is Al and the muffler is stainless or other steel you
already have a corrosion issue that wont be exacerbated by any kind of
pad.
Hope this helps, Paul
===================
At 04:01 AM 10/21/2006, you wrote:
>
>
> Lynn , I am not familiar with metal interaction between
> copper/brass with Aluminum at all.
> That being said for pot scrubbers you would think that copper would
> be a better conductor than Stainless Steel.
> In this application I have not idea if one would be better than
> another (SS versus Copper )
> I found this it matters
> "1) University of Sherbrooke, Sherbrooke, Canada
> Abstract The surface pitting of copper conductors recovered from
> fire debris has been reproduced by laboratory tests. The results of
> these tests demonstrate that molten aluminum that comes in contact
> with copper conductors drastically reduces the melting point of
> copper by alloying. "
> Dave
> ---
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Lynn
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pwmac(at)sisna.com
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| Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 1:04 pm Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis |
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Correct the corrosion issue wont be worse regardless of the pad you choose.
May I suggest the stainless first then try the copper and compare the result.
Paul
===================
At 12:54 PM 10/21/2006, you wrote:
[quote]
What I have is: no muffler involved...is its sending it's heat to
the carb, when needed.
I have stainless steel exhaust pipes, to which I've attached (think
clam shell, wrap-around) an aluminum heat muff, and later installed
alum baffles inside that. The current question is what kind of
material should be used for the scrubbers inside that alum heat
muff? It sounds like because I already have an alum muff in contact
with a SS pipe, that the addition of the SS scrubber pads, or
copper, will not create a problem that is not already there.
Lynn
On Saturday, October 21, 2006, at 10:03 AM, PWilson wrote:
>
>
>Aluminum and copper or brass are close in the electromotive chart.
>Steel is not a good used with Al. My 84 172 had stainless pads in
>the air intakes to keep out the bugs. Never saw any corrosion, but
>there was no heat at the leading edge intakes. If the muffler is
>stainless then use stainless pads If the thing is Al then use
>copper or brass. If the shroud is Al and the muffler is stainless
>or other steel you already have a corrosion issue that wont be
>exacerbated by any kind of pad.
>Hope this helps, Paul
>===================
>At 04:01 AM 10/21/2006, you wrote:
>>
>>
>>Lynn , I am not familiar with metal interaction between
>>copper/brass with Aluminum at all.
>>That being said for pot scrubbers you would think that copper
>>would be a better conductor than Stainless Steel.
>>In this application I have not idea if one would be better than
>>another (SS versus Copper )
>>I found this it matters
>>"1) University of Sherbrooke, Sherbrooke, Canada
>>
>>
>>Abstract The surface pitting of copper conductors recovered from
>>fire debris has been reproduced by laboratory tests. The results
>>of these tests demonstrate that molten aluminum that comes in
>>contact with copper conductors drastically reduces the melting
>>point of copper by alloying. "
>>
>>
>>Dave
>>---
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dave
Joined: 22 Sep 2006
Posts: 1382
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| Posted: Sat Oct 21, 2006 5:17 pm Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis |
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Lynn -- I will add that my heat shroud that I made is 2024 alum I had
here. I think it was 016 or 020 that came off a wing or something.
Dave
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Lynn Matteson
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan
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| Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 4:14 am Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis |
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I built mine from alum stock ordered from Aircraft Spruce. Because the
exhaust pipes on my Jab 2200 engine are 1-1/4" OD, I needed 1-3/8" OD
tubing for the inlet and out tubes that clamp around these exhaust
pipes. This was only available...from Spruce at least...in the.058"
wall, so I used that, and then used the 2" and the 3" stock that they
sell in a similar wall thickness and grade aluminum...6061T6...for the
body and air inlet and outlet pipes. I saw that the size was available
in 2024, but at 3 times the cost. For an experiment in building a heat
muff, I let cost govern my thinking and went with the 6061. At least
the grades would then all be the same, and weldability would not be an
issue, if it even would have, had I mixed grades.
Lynn
On Saturday, October 21, 2006, at 09:17 PM, Dave wrote:
| Quote: |
Lynn -- I will add that my heat shroud that I made is 2024 alum I
had here. I think it was 016 or 020 that came off a wing or
something.
Dave
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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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| Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2006 6:01 am Post subject: heat muffs and electrolysis |
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Better and cheaper to make the muff (shroud) out of stove pipe. Much less
chance of corrosion. The good news is that you will get most of your
corrosion on your shroud and not on your expen$ive muffler. The other thing
is also true if you live in a very dry environment then corrosion is much
slower developing.
Where I live, about 100' from the salty North Atlantic ( guess what, it's
rain, drizzle and fog again today) corrosion occurs very quickly. For me
an aluminium shroud wouldn't last very long. As has been mentioned here the
best way of avoiding dissimilar metal corrosion is not to have dissimilar
metals. Use stainless stove pipe (I length of 7" should do) and of course
the stainless scrubbers
Noel
[quote] --
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