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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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 Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 6:16 pm Post subject: Cylinder Cooling Improvement |
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At LOE, Vic gave me a couple good tips on improving cylinder cooling, so
I got home and started working on it. Today I did some test flying
after all of the improvements, and I'm finding some pretty great CHT
improvements, despite my baffling seeming to be in great shape
before. I'm learning that you really need to look at baffling with
a fine-toothed comb, and there are still other things that can be done.
After all the work on improved cooling, I threw together these 2 pages.
Should be good for all the builders, even ones with James cowls, but for
those with stock cowls like me, I now think you should be able to get
very acceptable CHT's with the stock cowl, as long as you look at a
couple of key things, and do a good job with your baffling.
Here's the Tips page:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/engine_IO540.html
But here's the good reading linked from that page:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20061022/index.html
I had bought a set of Louvers that I was going to install, but I
think I will not be installing them. I've still got to send my
check to Alex, but if anyone wants to buy the louvers that I
received, I'll sell them at a little discount as I've already
trimmed them, rounded the corners, and drilled them. I don't
think they're a bad idea to use, but I'm worried that if I
install them, I may get too MUCH cooling. I'm going to still be
adding Microlon engine treatment, which Vic claims he saw 30-40
degree CHT temp drop during climb after he added it.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
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ddddsp1(at)juno.com
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| Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 10:04 pm Post subject: Cylinder Cooling Improvement |
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Great suggestions Tim on the cooling. I had already siliconed the baffle seal and aluminum baffling between the rivets but did not consider between the cylinders. We also closed in the top cowl around the prop governor with glass so the baffling can seal up against it vs letting the air escape out. (pic attached) I attached the prop governor cable on the outside of the governor arm and I see others have it attached on the inside between the governor housing and the arm. The governor cable lined up much nicer that way as it came through the air ramp. Is there any reason why I need to attach it the way you did?
Dean 40449
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Visit http://www.juno.com/value to sign up today!
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glastar(at)gmx.net
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| Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2006 10:40 pm Post subject: Cylinder Cooling Improvement |
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Hi Tim,
just wondering about this blue type of RTV, any more infos, I, so far
did know only about the red high temp RTV.
thanks for a feedback
br Werner
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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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| Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 4:04 am Post subject: Cylinder Cooling Improvement |
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That was a great job glassing the area behind the governor. I wish
I would have looked closer at that area when I was doing the cowl,
but I guess the rest of the baffling looked so good I overlooked
that whole area. You should have it licked in that area. I
may still add some RTV to mine so it seals tight against that
governor too.
I don't see any problem why if your arm lines up better on the outside
that you couldn't do it that way. Mine lined up better on the inside.
All I can think is that maybe your ramps were cut or drilled
differently or something, causing the shift, otherwise it would
seem like with these prepunched kits, we'd all be in the same spot.
But, if it works for you, it should be fine.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote:
| Quote: | Great suggestions Tim on the cooling. I had already siliconed the
baffle seal and aluminum baffling between the rivets but did not
consider between the cylinders. We also closed in the top cowl around
the prop governor with glass so the baffling can seal up against it vs
letting the air escape out. (pic attached) I attached the prop
governor cable on the outside of the governor arm and I see others have
it attached on the inside between the governor housing and the arm. The
governor cable lined up much nicer that way as it came through the air
ramp. Is there any reason why I need to attach it the way you did?
Dean 40449
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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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| Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 4:09 am Post subject: Cylinder Cooling Improvement |
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Hi Werner, that's just the Ultra Blue Oxygen sensor safe stuff
from Permtex...all auto parts places and wal-marts carry it.
Nothing too special. I used red in a lot of places, and it
was superior for attaching wires to things for vibration protection.
I used copper in some areas, as it had some of the hottest
temp ratings. I fell back to blue this time just because
I like blue.  I guess I'm not too worried if the color
scheme under there is all varied, as long as it works.
For what it's worth, the reason I decided I didn't need copper
again was just that if your hottest CHT's are going to be
around 400 degrees, and that's in the hottest part of the
head, then 650 degree rated stuff should work fine out
by the tips of the fins. I could have used it a lot of
other places too. There are places where I'd still use
the copper or red though if you're near the really hot
areas.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Werner Schneider wrote:
| Quote: |
Hi Tim,
just wondering about this blue type of RTV, any more infos, I, so far
did know only about the red high temp RTV.
thanks for a feedback
br Werner
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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
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| Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 4:23 am Post subject: Cylinder Cooling Improvement |
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One thing I forgot to mention or take photos of (I'll fix that
in a day or two), is that I also trimmed, *again*, my 2 air dams
in from of the front cylinders. I have now removed most of the
dam in front of the very top part of the cylinder head, but left
about 1" or slightly more of the dam in front of the taller
fins about 3" down from the top of the cylinders. Seeing as
how the temps are very even between 1,2,5,6 now, I think this is
getting to be pretty nice.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote:
| Quote: | Great suggestions Tim on the cooling. I had already siliconed the
baffle seal and aluminum baffling between the rivets but did not
consider between the cylinders. We also closed in the top cowl around
the prop governor with glass so the baffling can seal up against it vs
letting the air escape out. (pic attached) I attached the prop
governor cable on the outside of the governor arm and I see others have
it attached on the inside between the governor housing and the arm. The
governor cable lined up much nicer that way as it came through the air
ramp. Is there any reason why I need to attach it the way you did?
Dean 40449
________________________________________________________________________
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Jon Reining
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 37
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| Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 10:28 am Post subject: Re: Cylinder Cooling Improvement |
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I recently read this article about cylinder temps that was interesting. Basically, high CHT's increase cylinder head wear. It was surprising how much small amounts mattered.
http://www.avweb.com/news/savvyaviator/193242-1.html?type=pf
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