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cjensen(at)dts9000.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 1:14 pm Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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I have a pitot on an Exp. Aircraft that was designed for a heavier
aircraft. To accommodate the high speed and high altitude cold, the
pitot was configured to get very hot, with consumate amperage demand.
Given the lower demands of a GA aircraft, is there any way of reducing
the heating of the pitot (very warm to the touch would be fine...I don't
need to be able to brand someone!) with a consumate reduction in
amperage demand?
Chuck Jensen
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retasker(at)optonline.net Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 2:05 pm Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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There are ways, but what leads you to believe that the pitot is really
too hot? The whole purpose of the heater is to keep it clear in any
condition - rain, freezing rain, cold ambient, etc. Depending on what
plane you have, you will be flying at upwards of 200 mph through all
this (hopefully NOT freezing rain) and the last thing you want is for
the pitot to freeze up.
Dick Tasker
Chuck Jensen wrote:
Quote: |
I have a pitot on an Exp. Aircraft that was designed for a heavier
aircraft. To accommodate the high speed and high altitude cold, the
pitot was configured to get very hot, with consumate amperage demand.
Given the lower demands of a GA aircraft, is there any way of reducing
the heating of the pitot (very warm to the touch would be fine...I don't
need to be able to brand someone!) with a consumate reduction in
amperage demand?
Chuck Jensen
|
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riggs_la(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 5:59 pm Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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I would like to add that the pitot tube should burn your hand if you grab it after it has been on for more than 1 or 2 minutes.
"Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> wrote:[quote] --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
There are ways, but what leads you to believe that the pitot is really
too hot? The whole purpose of the heater is to keep it clear in any
condition - rain, freezing rain, cold ambient, etc. Depending on what
plane you have, you will be flying at upwards of 200 mph through all
this (hopefully NOT freezing rain) and the last thing you want is for
the pitot to freeze up.
Dick Tasker
Chuck Jensen wrote:
[quote]--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen"
I have a pitot on an Exp. [quote][b]
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oldbob(at)BeechOwners.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:03 pm Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Good Evening Lynn, Dick and Chuck,
In a previous life, I flew quite a few airplanes that
had a high and a low heat for the pitot tubes. They
were on low for ground operations and on high heat for
airborne use.
I think it was controlled by a strut switch, but not
sure.
Worked well though.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
--- Lynn Riggs <riggs_la(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
Quote: | I would like to add that the pitot tube should burn
your hand if you grab it after it has been on for
more than 1 or 2 minutes.
"Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> wrote:
Tasker"
There are ways, but what leads you to believe that
the pitot is really
too hot? The whole purpose of the heater is to keep
it clear in any
condition - rain, freezing rain, cold ambient, etc.
Depending on what
plane you have, you will be flying at upwards of 200
mph through all
this (hopefully NOT freezing rain) and the last
thing you want is for
the pitot to freeze up.
Dick Tasker
Chuck Jensen wrote:
>
Jensen"
>
>I have a pitot on an Exp. Aircraft that was
designed for a heavier
>aircraft. To accommodate the high speed and high
altitude cold, the
>pitot was configured to get very hot, with
consumate amperage demand.
>Given the lower demands of a GA aircraft, is there
any way of reducing
>the heating of the pitot (very warm to the touch
would be fine...I don't
>need to be able to brand someone!) with a consumate
reduction in
>amperage demand?
>
>Chuck Jensen
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this
message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been
temporarily inconvenienced.
--
Lynn A. Riggs
riggs_la(at)yahoo.com
St. Paul, MN
BH #656 Kit #22
http://home.comcast.net/~lariggs/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html
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nuckollsr(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 8:32 pm Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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At 04:13 PM 12/3/2006 -0500, you wrote:
Quote: |
I have a pitot on an Exp. Aircraft that was designed for a heavier
aircraft. To accommodate the high speed and high altitude cold, the
pitot was configured to get very hot, with consumate amperage demand.
Given the lower demands of a GA aircraft, is there any way of reducing
the heating of the pitot (very warm to the touch would be fine...I don't
need to be able to brand someone!) with a consumate reduction in
amperage demand?
|
Altitude and speed have little to do with a pitot tube's
need to transfer heat to the surface. The kind of ice that
a pitot tube is expected to handle happens at lower altitudes
and relatively slow speeds. It's the super-cooled water droplets
that freeze instantly on contact that represent the largest
challenge to the pitot tube's ability to shed ice.
If you've ever witnessed an ice-tunnel test on a piece
of aviation de-ice equipment, you'd realize that if your
pitot tube is being seriously challenged, then knowing
altitude and airspeed are probably the least of your concerns.
Icing conditions you're likely to survive can probably be
shed by a relatively whimpy pitot tube deice heater but these
are exceedingly difficult things to quantify. Pitot tubes
we THOUGHT were adequate 30 years ago are scoffed at today.
Intuitively, your assertion is not in error, ANY amount of
heat will shed SOME ice. SOME ice is survivable while OTHER
ice is not. Given the changes in de-ice certification protocols
over the years, it becomes difficult to put numbers on "any",
"some" and "other". So difficult that for anyone to offer you
advice advocating "this many watts as opposed to that many
watts" may be blowing smoke you-know-where.
When that stuff starts appearing anywhere on your airplane
is not the time to be experimenting with the adequacy of
your pitot heater decisions. The best rule of thumb is put
on the biggest heater you can find/afford but plan on the
expeditious 180 no matter how robust you belive your heater
to be.
Bob . . .
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endspeed(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 9:54 pm Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Hi Bob,
Staying out of icing if possible is good advice. I
lost pitot static instruments 2 or 3 times in a full
deicing equipped Navy jet over a 3 year period. It
gives you quite a chill in the spinal area to see your
airspeed dropping off so quickly to zero. I happened
to be level at the time of loss. Icing of the pitot
tube turns your airspeed indicator into an altimeter
for all intents and purposes. The higher you go the
higher the airspeed you'll see. The lower you go the
lower the airspeed. You can see how hazardous that is
since you'll climb and show higher airspeed with the
nose way up, right to the stall and spin. Another
sound piece of advice is to know what airspeed a given
attitude and power setting will give you and don't
mess with your configuration any more than necessary
to land.
Safe flying,
Bob Sultzbach
Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know.
Ask your question on www.Answers.yahoo.com
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cjensen(at)dts9000.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 4:14 am Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Okay, I appreciate everyone holding forth that it's stupid to fly in
ice....I'm not that dumb, I only look it. However, the question stands,
how does one knock down the heat and current draw. Richard mentioned a
'strut switch'....whoever that is. Can someone enlighten us
non-electrical types. What I'm concerned about is being in the clouds,
close to freezing and loose electrical--I'd just as soon not have to
turn off the pitot heat because it's sucking the battery dry in short
order; I'd rather it be in long order.
Chuck Jensen
--
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oldbob(at)BeechOwners.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 4:38 am Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Good Morning Chuck,
Believe 'twas I who mentioned a strut switch.
In any case it is switch mounted on a landing gear
strut that switches something on or off when the
aircraft is airborne.
Such a switch is often used to prevent gear retraction
when the aircraft is on the ground.
It is not at all uncommon to have a strut switch on a
nose gear that will actuate a relay which controls
multiple functions when the aircraft is airborne.
The dual heat pitot tube has often been activated by a
nose gear strut switch on airplanes I have flown.
I have never seen a pilot activated switch that
handled that function, but I see no reason why one
could not be installed if that is your desire.
You could even have multiple heat choices if you
wanted the added complication.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
--- Chuck Jensen <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> wrote:
[quote]
Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
Okay, I appreciate everyone holding forth that it's
stupid to fly in
ice....I'm not that dumb, I only look it. However,
the question stands,
how does one knock down the heat and current draw.
Richard mentioned a
'strut switch'....whoever that is. Can someone
enlighten us
non-electrical types. What I'm concerned about is
being in the clouds,
close to freezing and loose electrical--I'd just as
soon not have to
turn off the pitot heat because it's sucking the
battery dry in short
order; I'd rather it be in long order.
Chuck Jensen
--
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echristley(at)nc.rr.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:27 am Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Robert Sultzbach wrote:
Quote: |
Hi Bob,
Staying out of icing if possible is good advice. I
lost pitot static instruments 2 or 3 times in a full
deicing equipped Navy jet over a 3 year period.
|
I've been following this thread, and this post begs the question I've
been mulling over.
What good is a heated pitot in an airplane without deicing equipment?
I'm thinking that if the pitot is covered in ice, then so is the rest of
the plane. Your airspeed is now next to useless, because all those
stall speed numbers are now meaningless. Whatever they were before,
they changed when the ice modified all the airfoils and the CG. A
cockpit referenced backup altimeter would seem to give the best bang for
the $time$...not terribly accurate, but sufficient to keep you out of
cumulous granite until you can improve your situation.
Ernest (a sunny day flyer).
--
,|"|"|, Ernest Christley |
----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder |
o| d |o http://ernest.isa-geek.org |
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Bruce(at)glasair.org Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:47 am Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Didn't your CFII tell you to break the glass on the VSI if that happens. But
your altimeter wouldn't be effected by a pitot blockage. We all have heated
static ports, right? Alternate static air valves?
Bruce
www.glasair.org
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Bret Smith
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 178 Location: Mineral Bluff, GA
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Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 7:32 am Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Chuck,
Thank you for addressing this scenario. I, too, would like to hear others
respond. As for me, icing or not, if I lose my main alternator, I would
switch on Endurance mode (which is only 8 amps...thus, no pitot) and land
that puppy ASAP. This is not an emergent situation. Not so with your stock
Cessna.
A well designed electrical system can make a huge difference in the outcome
of a flight.
Bret Smith
---
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_________________ Bret Smith
RV-9A (Emp) |
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echristley(at)nc.rr.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 9:51 am Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Bruce Gray wrote:
Quote: |
Didn't your CFII tell you to break the glass on the VSI if that happens. But
your altimeter wouldn't be effected by a pitot blockage. We all have heated
static ports, right? Alternate static air valves?
Bruce
www.glasair.org
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Hard to do without a mechanical VSI 8*) Breaking the glass on your
EFIS is just not pretty. If I did have a mechanical VSI, I still
wouldn't break the glass on it. Just no point in going around busting
up perfectly good instruments.
I assume that if ice is building up to block the pitot, the static is
very close to being next in line. Then you have to be aware enough to
notice that something is sneaking up on you. I've never had it happen,
but what I understand is that the meter slowly becomes more and more
innacurate. It doesn't just fall over dead. A backup device feeding
from a safe alternate source (like cabin air), will give you a much
quicker heads up.
That might be a good feature to have on an EFIS. Compare the cabin to
static pressures and raise an alarm if they get out of range...then
display both 'altitudes' if the pilot chooses.
--
,|"|"|, Ernest Christley |
----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder |
o| d |o http://ernest.isa-geek.org |
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cjensen(at)dts9000.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:06 pm Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Wow, I must be hard-of-speaking (or writing). I concede that flying
into icing when not so equipped is not a good idea, but if a person
flies IFR in the winter most anywhere in the continental US, sooner or
later, they'll pick up some ice. Even if my wings start looking like
something that should be used to cool a gin and tonic, I don't want to
lose air speed indication. Granted, I may not know what my new stall
speed is, but I would like to know WHAT my speed is...and I can't do
that with a pitot full of ice.
So, the question on the table is still the same, is there a way off
'turning down the heat' and reducing current draw?
Chuck Jensen
--
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cjensen(at)dts9000.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:30 pm Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Old Bob,
I reread your posting more carefully this time which leads me to a
follow up question. Now that I understand what a 'strut switch' is
(which I knew by a different name), I'm curious how the 'low heat' for
the ground operations worked. In other words, how did it provide low
heat on the ground and high heat in the air?
Chuck Jensen
--
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oldbob(at)BeechOwners.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 3:50 pm Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Good Evening Chuck,
That I do not know much about, but I do recall one
airplane where the low power was twenty eight volt DC
and the high temperature used 115 volt, 400 cycle, AC.
I would imagibne all of the varying power ones used
some variaton of high and low voltages.
Dropping resistors sure wouldn't solve your problem,
but an electronically cycled DC voltage may work.
Hopefully, 'Lectric Bob will have an idea!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
--- Chuck Jensen <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> wrote:
[quote]
Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
Old Bob,
I reread your posting more carefully this time which
leads me to a
follow up question. Now that I understand what a
'strut switch' is
(which I knew by a different name), I'm curious how
the 'low heat' for
the ground operations worked. In other words, how
did it provide low
heat on the ground and high heat in the air?
Chuck Jensen
--
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George McNutt
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 30
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Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:42 pm Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Pitch reference - Yes, if you want to paint a gloomy picture lets throw
in night time, snow showers, over water and your venturi icing up and
the gyros slowing down, well with a heated pitot at least you could
still fly needle ball and airspeed! Lost a friend who did not have pitot
heat, you cannot fly with needle ball and altimeter.
George in Langley BC
Quote: |
I've been following this thread, and this post begs the question I've
been mulling over.
What good is a heated pitot in an airplane without deicing equipment?
I'm thinking that if the pitot is covered in ice, then so is the rest
of the plane. Your airspeed is now next to useless, because all those
stall speed numbers are now meaningless. Whatever they were before,
they changed when the ice modified all the airfoils and the CG. A
cockpit referenced backup altimeter would seem to give the best bang
for the $time$...not terribly accurate, but sufficient to keep you out
of cumulous granite until you can improve your situation.
Ernest (a sunny day flyer).
|
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KeithHallsten(at)quiknet. Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 7:36 pm Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Chuck,
I mounted a 28v “Known Ice” pitot on the nose of my Velocity. Since I have a 14 volt electrical system, its power consumption will be reduced by a factor of 4 (power = V * V / R). I figure that is sufficient for my purposes, because a Velocity is NOT a “Known Ice” type of airframe. If I should find enough ice to overwhelm my “lightweight” pitot heating system, I have bigger problems than the pitot. I’m not flying yet, but that’s my position for now.
Actually, now that we all have GPS available to us, loss of pitot is not as critical as it used to be. With a fat margin to allow for wind, flying by groundspeed is generally a fair approximation.
Regards,
Keith Hallsten
Subject: RE: Pitot Current Draw
From: Chuck Jensen (cjensen(at)dts9000.com ([email]cjensen(at)dts9000.com?subject=RE:%20Pitot%20Current%20Draw&replyto=8984A39879F2F5418251CBEEC9C689B32870D7(at)lucky.dts.local[/email]))
Date: Mon Dec 04 - 12:06 PM
Wow, I must be hard-of-speaking (or writing). I concede that flying
into icing when not so equipped is not a good idea, but if a person
flies IFR in the winter most anywhere in the continental US, sooner or
later, they'll pick up some ice. Even if my wings start looking like
something that should be used to cool a gin and tonic, I don't want to
lose air speed indication. Granted, I may not know what my new stall
speed is, but I would like to know WHAT my speed is...and I can't do
that with a pitot full of ice.
So, the question on the table is still the same, is there a way off
'turning down the heat' and reducing current draw?
Chuck Jensen
[quote][b]
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cjensen(at)dts9000.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 5:18 am Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Hi, Keith,
That was exactly my thought process also. I didn't want a red hot branding iron to bore my way through ice cubes...just warm enough to keep the pitot stuffed full of rain water from freezing. If the icing is bad enough that it freezes over a warm-to-very warm pitot, I've got bigger problems that a red hot pitot won't solve.
Since no ideas have been tossed out, I wonder if there is an efficient means of cycling the pitot heater on/off at some interval, such as on for 30 seconds, off for two minutes. This would reduce the total current draw if a person was in the soup, lost electrical and needed whatever extra time available to get to safety but didn't dare to turn off the pitot in marginal icing conditions.
Chuck Jensen
--
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Deems Davis
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 925
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Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 5:35 am Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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Chuck this is exactly what the Gretz heated pitot does.
http://www.gretzaero.com/ (ie cycles the power on/off to keep it warm
enough to melt ice, but not constantly hot.
Deems Davis RV10 # 406
Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Chuck Jensen wrote:
Quote: | Hi, Keith,
I wonder if there is an efficient means of cycling the pitot heater
on/off at some interval,
Chuck Jensen
**
*
*
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echristley(at)nc.rr.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 6:41 am Post subject: Pitot Current Draw |
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OldBob Siegfried wrote:
Quote: | Dropping resistors sure wouldn't solve your problem,
but an electronically cycled DC voltage may work.
Hopefully, 'Lectric Bob will have an idea!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
|
Actually, the dropping resistor could work. Heat output is a function
of wattage, which is given by V^2*R in a DC circuit. If you could find
a way to add an extra high wattage resister in series with the pitot
heating element, you would be dropping the current requirement. A 150
watt heater is going to have a resistance around 1 ohm in a 12V system.
Add a 1 ohm resistor in series, and the circuit will burn up 75 watts.
The resistor will suck down 37.5W and the heater will get 37.5
(ignoring line losses for the moment). If you could find a way to use
the pitot mounting as a heat sink for the resistor, it might actually be
workable.
I still don't think it's a good use of $time$, but that's just me 8*)
--
,|"|"|, Ernest Christley |
----===<{{(oQo)}}>===---- Dyke Delta Builder |
o| d |o http://ernest.isa-geek.org |
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