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Pitot Current Draw
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jan.de.jong(at)xs4all.nl
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 4:51 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

As others have mentioned, the down side of this scheme is that

Quote:
your bus gets whacked with a 15A pulse for each operating cycle
of the heater system. One can explore relatively high frequency
switching to avoid seeing the panel lights flicker (and believe
me, they WILL) but this might cause audible noises elsewhere.
Suggest about 30 Hz for minimum observability and below the
audio frequencies of interest in the rest of your electro-whizzies.


There are >1F, < 2mOhm capacitors that one could use to mitigate:
http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/car/accessories/capacitors.htm#spl
(be careful charging/discharging - operate like a short circuit)

15A for 1/60th causes 0.25V dip on charged 1F.

Maybe not as practical as buying off the shelf, but interesting.

Cheers,
Jan de Jong


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cjensen(at)dts9000.com
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:18 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Craig/Matt/Bob/Bob again/et al

Thanks for the technical responses which transcends the proclamation that only dummies fly in ice. And Stein, you have a point if I was only trying to use some reject hand-me-down pitot and I was too cheap to get one of Gretz's very elegantly functional pitots. This isn't about functionality, this is about aesthetics. I have a sharkfin pitot off an old warbird that I use at the tippy-point of the Velocity. The sharkfin perfectly picks up the lines of the winglets, yadda, yadda.....trust me, it's just a personal preference.

Unfortunately, the heating elements in it were obviously designed for use in cold weather areas. In the winters, when they saw this sucker coming in, the ramp and line crews left the warmth of their burning trash barrels to comeover and stand by the pitot where there was some real heat!!!

My conclusion is if I want to keep the pitot (which I do), I either live with the current draw, which is really not a serious problem for the 60amp alternator and just hope I don't need it at the same time that I start suddenly have a shortage of electrons. While the resistor fix may work, because of the loss to the resistor, the overall amperage reduction is minimal.....kind of like having to spend a $100 to get a $20 tax reduction.

The more attractive alternative is duty cycle--assuming it doesn't put me in electron hell. Anyhow, I appreciate the many responses and the many tangents engaged. As to those who thought the thread went on too long and contain too much irrelevant material, just remember--that's why we sort through the pile of straw and horse s--t that was shoveled out of the horse barn with our bare hands---on the oft chance there might be a pony in there somewhere.

Chuck Jensen


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nuckollsr(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:18 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

At 10:30 PM 12/7/2006 -0600, you wrote:

Quote:
Wow! This discussion has really taken on a mind of it's own....I see
almost 41 posts in this thread! As usual and in my own sarcastic way, I'm
really confused and boggled as to why we're even discussing this (and to
the unbelievably detailed technical minutia that has arisen out of
something like this)....when there is a perfectly good heated pitot on the
market that does EXACTLY what you want it to do....it varies the current
to the tube from .1 Amps to 7 Amps depending on it's own
temperature. When it doesn't need the heat it just idles, when it does it
shoves more power out there. Why re-invent the wheel...someone already
has and his name is Warren Gretz! I swear, just reading all these posts
will waste more time than the $400 and some odd bucks it takes to buy one
brand new....no messing around with all kinds of crazy little electrical
components...bolt it on and go!

If the ONLY reason to have a discussion is to make
a buying decision on a product, then indeed discussing
the physics upon which it operates may be a "waste of
time" for some individuals. I'd like to believe that
the folks who hang out here are also interested in
acquiring a confidence in their decisions based on
understanding as opposed to market popularity or
customer faith in a particular product.

I'm working an EMC problem at RAC right now that is
generating a ton of $100/hr email generation and and
digestion that ranges all the way from techs to
division managers. 99% of what's been written so far
has hashed over a lot of facts (knowledge) and feelings
(popularity contests) but as engineers, our duty is
to not only find and fix the problem but to help everyone
understand how we got there.

Bob . . .


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nuckollsr(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:40 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

At 02:01 PM 12/8/2006 +0100, you wrote:

Quote:


As others have mentioned, the down side of this scheme is that

> your bus gets whacked with a 15A pulse for each operating cycle
> of the heater system. One can explore relatively high frequency
> switching to avoid seeing the panel lights flicker (and believe
> me, they WILL) but this might cause audible noises elsewhere.
> Suggest about 30 Hz for minimum observability and below the
> audio frequencies of interest in the rest of your electro-whizzies.

There are >1F, < 2mOhm capacitors that one could use to mitigate:
http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/car/accessories/capacitors.htm#spl
(be careful charging/discharging - operate like a short circuit)

15A for 1/60th causes 0.25V dip on charged 1F.

Maybe not as practical as buying off the shelf, but interesting.

Cheers,
Jan de Jong

Point well taken. Earlier I mentioned a problem with bus
voltage stability encountered with a $50K coffee maker
on a $14M airplane.

For the entirety of my career I've signed up to the notion
that the ship's battery is "the best filter in the airplane".
Evidence to the contrary has been laying on the table in front
of me since day-one but went unnoticed because I failed to
explore the questions.

Turns out that a battery presents its specified milliohm
source impedance to the bus only while it's DELIVERING
energy. Once you elevate the battery's terminals above
the energy delivery value (as for charging and maintaining)
that battery's resistance to small voltage perturbations
disappears.

I did some quick-n-dirty looks at tying 1F capacitors
across the bus. In this case 50A pulses that produced
4-volt perturbations with a battery on line dropped to
1-volt excursions with a 1F capacitor . . . right in the
ballpark with your assertions above.

Problem was that while the battery allowed 4-volt,
25 mS perturbations to generate noticeable flicker in
cabin lights, the 1-volt perturbations were stretched
by the longer system time constant with a capacitor installed.
At 50 mS, the 1-volt perturbations were MORE noticeable than
shorter pulses of greater intensity! Who would have
thunk it?

In any case, these studies have generated a profound
change in the way I view vehicular bus dynamics.
It's interesting how easy it is to be snookered into
a belief structure that is wrong. Not just because
it's heavily preached and deeply held . . . but because
the question, "how does this work?" was never asked.

Bob . . .

////
(o o)
===========o00o=(_)=o00o=========
< Go ahead, make my day . . . >
< show me where I'm wrong. >
=================================


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nuckollsr(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:41 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

At 08:53 PM 12/7/2006 -0700, you wrote:

Quote:


>
> We touched on this in an earlier post. Recall that while you're reducing
> the current through the heater by 1/2, this drops the voltage across it
> by 1/2 also for a new dissipation value of 1/4 the original which comes
> to 29.5 watts for the tube and 29.5 watts dropped across the companion
> resistor for a system total of 49 watts.

Just a minor point - the 49 W is already 1/4 of the power consumption of
the 'new' pitot tube. The only point I was making was that "I assume
that an amp is an amp and is generally going to produce a certain
amount of heat" was not correct.

Bob W.

Agreed!

Bob . . .


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jan.de.jong(at)xs4all.nl
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:44 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Quote:
15A for 1/60th causes 0.25V dip on charged 1F.


Forgot to mention - 0.25V discharge dip is on top of 0.03V resistance
drop dip of 15A and 2mOhm.


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mlas(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:54 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Bob,

Don't forget just to have a little fun every now and then.

Mike

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 7:14 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

At 06:54 AM 12/8/2006 -0700, you wrote:

Quote:


Bob,

Don't forget just to have a little fun every now and then.

Mike

My work is fun . . . or I wouldn't do it!
The coolest feeling in the world for me is to
go to bed understanding something that I didn't
understand that morning.

Bob . . .


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pilot4profit(at)sbcglobal
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 7:16 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Chuck, I think the capacitor suggested with a PWM might be your best bet. I have some mil-spec voltage regulators that I think may work as part of the circuit. These are the same regulators that Cessna uses in their panel dimmer circuits, just a more rugged version. Give me a day or 2 to hit the application notes, and I think I can give you a circuit that is cost effective, efficient and produce little noise. That is if someone else doesn’t beat me to it. Since I see this component used already in certified aircraft it should be suitable for your application, provided it can handle the current necessary to keep it at the right temp.
Some years back I worked with some very precise temperature controllers for infra-red black-body heat sources. Temperature controls accurate to +-.01 deg. C.
CS


From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 8:19 AM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: RE: Pitot Current Draw


Craig/Matt/Bob/Bob again/et al



Thanks for the technical responses which transcends the proclamation that only dummies fly in ice. And Stein, you have a point if I was only trying to use some reject hand-me-down pitot and I was too cheap to get one of Gretz's very elegantly functional pitots. This isn't about functionality, this is about aesthetics. I have a sharkfin pitot off an old warbird that I use at the tippy-point of the Velocity. The sharkfin perfectly picks up the lines of the winglets, yadda, yadda.....trust me, it's just a personal preference.



Unfortunately, the heating elements in it were obviously designed for use in cold weather areas. In the winters, when they saw this sucker coming in, the ramp and line crews left the warmth of their burning trash barrels to comeover and stand by the pitot where there was some real heat!!!



My conclusion is if I want to keep the pitot (which I do), I either live with the current draw, which is really not a serious problem for the 60amp alternator and just hope I don't need it at the same time that I start suddenly have a shortage of electrons. While the resistor fix may work, because of the loss to the resistor, the overall amperage reduction is minimal.....kind of like having to spend a $100 to get a $20 tax reduction.



The more attractive alternative is duty cycle--assuming it doesn't put me in electron hell. Anyhow, I appreciate the many responses and the many tangents engaged. As to those who thought the thread went on too long and contain too much irrelevant material, just remember--that's why we sort through the pile of straw and horse s--t that was shoveled out of the horse barn with our bare hands---on the oft chance there might be a pony in there somewhere.


Chuck Jensen


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cjensen(at)dts9000.com
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 8:09 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

CS,

I'll look forward to it.

Chuck Jensen
Do Not Archive


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tompkinsl(at)integra.net
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 11:11 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Amen, Stein! And it took two weeks for the response that actually answered Chuck's original question!

Larry
[quote][b]


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Speedy11(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 9:45 pm    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Mike Larkin,
I don't mean to be sarcastic, but you didn't answer any questions - at least any questions that had been asked.  Chuck asked about how to wire his pitot heat so as to have the option to cycle from low heat to high heat.
I don't agree with Chuck regarding the wisdom of using a lower heat setting to save power in IMC icing conditions if the alternator fails, but his question is not, "Should I use a lower heat setting?" His question is, "How do I wire so to obtain my choice of heat settings?"
We all have personal stories to tell.  They aren't relevant to Chuck's question unless they are related to how one wires one's electrical system to obtain high-low pitot heat.
My personal philosophy regarding icing conditions in SE piston powered aircraft is exactly the same as yours.  But, my philosophy about flying in icing conditions is not relevant to Chuck's question.
The only answer or opinion that Chuck wants is the one that describes to him how to wire his electrical system to permit high and low pitot heat settings.
We have to leave it to him to decide if such a system is adequate and if it is wise to employ it in icing conditions.
Regards,
Stan Sutterfield

[quote]The only way I can answer this question is to tell a story. First,
flying in the ice is something many pilot do every year and sometimes
often. If you know what you=92re doing and are prepared then the risks
are minimal. I have been flying in ice with airplanes that are able to
handle it for better then 20 years.  It=92s not like flying on a sunny
day. But once you get use to it and prepare for it, it=92s not that big
of a deal. A few words of advice, no two icing days are the same. Only
experience will help you here. My personal feeling on ice in piston
powered planes, you don=92t have many out when the weather gets bad.
When
in ice greater then light find a place to land ASAP.

As for you electric question; First the easy answer is to put a bigger
battery in the airplane. Second, why would you think that using less
power for pitot heat is going to be any better then turning the pitot
heat off all together? Unless you run a thermal equation on the speed,
temperature, and heat (layman=92s terms) required to guarantee the
anti-ice properties needed, then everything your doing is just a big
guess anyway. And I guessing that since I have to go to the book to do
said equation thoroughly, I would guess the electrical formula by
comparison would be a piece of cake. I know this is not what you want
to hear but the facts are the facts. Thee it to him to decide if such a system is adequate and if it is wise to employ it in icing conditions.
Regards,
Stan Sutterfield

[quote]The only way I can answer this question is to tell a story. First,
flying in the ice is something many pilot do every year and sometimes
often. If you know what you=92re doing and are prepared then the risks
are minimal. I have been flying in ice with airplanes that are able to
handle it for better then 20 years.  It=92s not like flying on a sunny
day. But once you get use to it and prepare for it, it=92s not that big
of a deal. A few words of advice, no two icing days are the same. Only
experience will help you here. My personal feeling on ice in piston
powered planes, you don=92t have many out when the weather gets bad.
When
in ice greater then light find a place to land ASAP.

As for you electric question; First the easy answer is to put a bigger
battery in the airplane. Second, why would you think that using less
power for pitot heat is going to be any better then turning the pitot
heat off all together? Unless you run a thermal equation on the speed,
temperature, and heat (layman=92s terms) required to guarantee the
anti-ice properties needed, then everything your doing is just a big
guess anyway. And I guessing that since I have to go to the book to do
said equation thoroughly, I would guess the electrical formula by
comparison would be a piece of cake. I know this is not what you want
to hear but the facts are the facts. The reason that the pitot uses so
much power (in general) is that is what it takes to keep ice off the
probe in 100% humidity at temperatures < 10dec C.

Sorry for the poor and somewhat sarcastic answer, but I think Chuck
brought it out in me.

Regards,

Mike Larkin
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 9:53 pm    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Matt,
An interesting concept.
Stan Sutterfield

Quote:
Why doesn't anyone have a pitot tube heated directly
by the combustion of a hydrocarbon


[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 10:52 pm    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Dr. Rodney,
Tell me, o wise one, how can one read the mind of another to determine whether or not he might misuse information you provide?
You, and others, cannot police everyone's thoughts. Nor should you.
Regards,
Grasshopper


Quote:
I believe I have some measure of
culpability for the actions of others if I have enabled them in some way to
DO something bad with the information they're gathering. And, I believe the
listers here believe that too!

We listers want everyone here to play safe!


[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 10:54 pm    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Thank you, Raymond. I could not have said it better.
Stan Sutterfield


Quote:
Rodney (O Wise Master),

Pretty arrogant of you to think that you have control of or responsibility
for another's actions and to think that you have any right to try to impose
your values on another by attempting to control their actions.

Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.


[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 11:06 pm    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Wow, a recent first flight?
Tell us about it. Do you have photos posted anywhere?
Couldn't connect to your web site.
Stan Sutterfield

Quote:
Bob W. (Not a thermodynamist but I learned ohms law at an early age.)
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
First Flight: 11/23/2006 7:50AM - 0.7 Hours Total Time


[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 3:13 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Well stated Mr. Sutterfield.

do not archive

Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
[quote] --


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 6:50 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Stan,
You're right in that there was a lot of circling of the opinion vultures before the meat was ripe to eat on this one--but it wasn't wasted time. As you pointed out, my question was 'how to do it' and not 'is it a good idea'. Eventually, the first question was answered though the early hits addressed the second question, which was not asked. However, as said, that was not wasted time. All education and wisdom on this site is not necessarily committable to a formula.

The opinions expressed, some relevant, others not, at least got me thinking...which is a good thing for all of us to do when we are doing something non-standard. Sometimes, we get so focused on a goal that our mental blinders causes us to lose sight of the peripheral issues which are raised for (re)consideration by some of the misdirected postings.

So, I dug through that pile of straw and stuff and found the pony. I didn't like his color or his size, but he is what he is, so now I have to decide what to do about him.

Chuck Jensen


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 7:46 am    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Thanks Stan,

I have a few pictures but haven't updated the web site in quite a
while. Every once in a while it goes off line for a short time. Seems
to be working now. I'll try to at least post the pictures today or
tomorrow.

Bob W.
On Sat, 9 Dec 2006 02:03:30 EST
Speedy11(at)aol.com wrote:

Quote:
Wow, a recent first flight?
Tell us about it. Do you have photos posted anywhere?
Couldn't connect to your web site.
Stan Sutterfield

Bob W. (Not a thermodynamist but I learned ohms law at an early age.)

Do not archive
--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
First Flight: 11/23/2006 7:50AM - 0.7 Hours Total Time
Cables for your rotary installation - http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2006 1:44 pm    Post subject: Pitot Current Draw Reply with quote

Chuck, if you could e-mail me off the list, I’d like to discuss your pitot heat requirements. I just joined recently, so I don’t have your original post.
Have been digging through my notes, and what comes next depends on a few details. Just remove the nospam.
pilot4profit(at)sbcnospamglobal.net

CS
Do not archive

From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 11:08 AM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: RE: Pitot Current Draw


CS,



I'll look forward to it.



Chuck Jensen

Do Not Archive



[quote][b]


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