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Tail wheel strut bending

 
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 6:00 am    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

I made the plunge and ordered a titanium rod for my strut. Real expensive $378 from McMaster-carr. Had to order 36" so I can get two out of the lgth.I actually made a sleeved 4130 tail strut. But the hassle of finding & heat treating was not worth it. The titanium will be allot more corrosion proof. Were I'm looking at putting my Kolb on my floats as soon as I get my sea plane rating. That closed the deal since with the floats the tail will be in the water allot.
To change the subject I also ordered the Rans S12 912 carb. conversion kit to reverse the 912 throttle at the eng. This should fix my throttle problem of the cable wanting to buckle going to idle. I'll keep everyone posted on this.
So if I can get these two problems solved I can get my plane inspected and flying. Rick Pearce Kolb Mark3C 912ULS
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herbgh



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 7:09 am    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

Rick and all

wondering about titanium for main gear legs? Anyone tried them? Herb

On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 07:58:51 -0600 "Rick Pearce" <rap(at)isp.com (rap(at)isp.com)> writes:
[quote] I made the plunge and ordered a titanium rod for my strut. Real expensive $378 from McMaster-carr. Had to order 36" so I can get two out of the lgth.I actually made a sleeved 4130 tail strut. But the hassle of finding & heat treating was not worth it. The titanium will be allot more corrosion proof. Were I'm looking at putting my Kolb on my floats as soon as I get my sea plane rating. That closed the deal since with the floats the tail will be in the water allot.
To change the subject I also ordered the Rans S12 912 carb. conversion kit to reverse the 912 throttle at the eng. This should fix my throttle problem of the cable wanting to buckle going to idle. I'll keep everyone posted on this.
So if I can get these two problems solved I can get my plane inspected and flying. Rick Pearce Kolb Mark3C 912ULS
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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
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Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 7:15 am    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

I made the plunge and ordered a titanium rod for my strut.

But the hassle of finding & heat treating was not worth it.

The titanium will be allot more corrosion proof.

To change the subject I also ordered the Rans S12 912 carb.
conversion kit to reverse the 912 throttle at the eng.

Rick Pearce Kolb Mark3C 912ULS
Morning Rick:

Got a question: How come you went with a rod and not a tube for
your tail wheel strut? I use heat treated .120" 4130, which is more
than enough strength to do the job on my mkIII. Would the titanium
tubing be cheaper than solid rod?

You won't have to worry about the tail wheel strut coroding, but the
tail post is still 4130.

Over the years I have found that shortening the tail wheel strut
improves ground handling, reduces weight, and also reduces chances of
bending.

Curious what RANS throttle reversal kit for the 912 set you back?

Take care,

john h
mkIII


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John Hauck



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 7:49 am    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

| wondering about titanium for main gear legs? Anyone tried them?
Herb
Herb:

The Wondering Wench has them installed on her Max Air.

I would love to have them, if I could afford them. I would go with
tubing though, rather than solid rod.

Love my titanium tie down stakes. Don't let anyone mess with them.
hehehe I believe Arty got her titanium gear legs from the same gent
that makes up the titanium tie down states.

john h
mkIII


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 1:01 pm    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

$25
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John Hauck



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 1:22 pm    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

From: "Rick Pearce"
| $25

Hi Rick:

Was wondering if titanium tubing would have been less expensive than
solid rod?

Also wondering if tubing may not have been sufficient material to work
as a tail wheel strut?

Thanks for the throttle info.

john h
mkIII


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 9:22 am    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

Kolbers,

I've watched the thread about bending the tailwheel strut, including the question of replacing with a solid rod rather than a tube. I'd like to note that when considering your choice it'd be well to consider the resistance to bending in addition to weight and cost. I tube is inherently more rigid and resistant to bending than a solid rod even with considerably less mass and weight. The reason is because a rod only has surface tension on the one surface for the length of the rod, whereas a tube has two surfaces; both the OD surface and the ID surface; hence, almost double the surface tension of a rod.

Surface tension is the reason it's possible to float a piece of metal on water (you all remember the kids trick of putting a straight pin on a piece of tissue paper floating in a glass of water, and when the tissue gets sogged and sinks, the pin is left "floating" - not really floating in the sense of displacing an equal weight of water, but of "floating" on the surface tension of the water in the glass) and why water skeeters can casually skate on the surface of a pond with only the balls of their little feet making contact with the water.

A note of interest for those who recognize the validity of the Bible, it is worthwhile to realize that all miracles are consistent with nature, i.e., hungry Jesus turning rock into bread was a definite no-no, but when the two walked on the water, it was a kind of strengthening or extension of the laws of nature, not a contradiction of those laws. Water to wine was accelerated fermentation, etc. Cool, huh. (This "aside" IS Kolb related because without the laws of nature, air wouldn't support a Kolb and they'd just be funny-looking go-karts)

Anyway, back to the initial thought, please research the required wall thickness - a piece of discarded TV antennae will NOT do the trick - but the bottom line is, far less metal will provide far greater strength using tubing rather than with a rod.

Dave Kulp
Bethlehem, PA
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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 11:03 am    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

Anyway, back to the initial thought, please research the required
wall thickness - a piece of discarded TV antennae will NOT do the
trick - but the bottom line is, far less metal will provide far
greater strength using tubing rather than with a rod.

Dave Kulp
Bethlehem, PA

Dave:

Lot depends on how the strut is heat treated, tube or rod.

My strut has been thoroughly tested over more than 2,500 hours in
extreme conditions with, probably, more tail wheel weight than most
mkIII's. What I fly with works well, is reliable, and will get you
there and back home.

Do have a problem with buoyancy. Can not get my tail wheel strut to
float. Wink

john h
in soggy hauck's holler


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 3:40 pm    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

At 12:20 PM 1/21/2007, David Kulp wrote:
Quote:
... I tube is inherently more rigid and resistant to bending than a solid rod even with considerably less mass and weight. The reason is because a rod only has surface tension on the one surface for the length of the rod, whereas a tube has two surfaces; both the OD surface and the ID surface; hence, almost double the surface tension of a rod...

Sorry, but this is incorrect. Surface tension is a phenomenon relating only to liquids, not to solids. A solid's strength is a function of stress, or force per cross sectional area. A solid bar is always stronger (and stiffer) than the same diameter tubing. Actually, in bending, it's a matter of moment of inertia. For the same weight, a tube will be stiffer, yes, because you can make it larger diameter.

You are correct that the outer fibers are the most important; moment of inertia equals pi*r^4/4 (double the diameter and it's 16 times stiffer). Thus the difference between a solid bar and a piece of tubing isn't that much. For example, a 1" solid bar is about 46% stiffer than a 1" diameter 1/8" wall tubing. The 1" solid bar is only 6.7% stiffer than a 1" diameter 1/4" wall tubing... but it IS stiffer.

-Dana

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 6:02 pm    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

That settles it, I`m going to drill out my solid rod to make it hollow, I`ll have the best of both. : )
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 7:51 pm    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

Ouch!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 7:20 am    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

Quote:
Sorry, but this is incorrect. Surface tension is a phenomenon relating
only to liquids, not to solids. A solid's strength is a function of
stress, or force per cross sectional area. A solid bar is always stronger
(and stiffer) than the same diameter tubing. Actually, in bending, it's a
matter of moment of inertia. For the same weight, a tube will be stiffer,
yes, because you can make it larger diameter.




Dana, I'm not a metalurgist, but you contradict one I've discussed it with.

Regards,
Dave
Do Not Archive
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MKIIIX040



Joined: 31 Mar 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 8:19 am    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

Would you rather break the tail rod (easily replaceable) or tear off the lower verticl stab.

Vic
Me.
[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 8:41 am    Post subject: Re: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

Yes, the solid rod is stronger and stiffer than a tube of the same diameter. However, the strength to weight ratio of the tube is much higher.

Rex Rodebush


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 8:52 am    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

Would you rather break the tail rod (easily replaceable) or tear off
the lower verticl stab.

Vic
Hi Ya'll:

Don't want to do either.

john h
mkIII


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:15 am    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

At 10:19 AM 1/22/2007, David Kulp wrote:
Quote:

Dana, I'm not a metalurgist, but you contradict one I've discussed it with.

Perhaps he misunderstood your question, or you misunderstood his answer (the solid bar is stronger but the strength to weight ratio of the tube is higher as I said). I'm not a metallurgist but I _am_ an aerospace engineer.

-Dana
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:08 pm    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

Quote:
Sorry, but this is incorrect. Surface tension is a phenomenon relating
only to liquids, not to solids. A solid's strength is a function of
stress, or force per cross sectional area. A solid bar is always stronger
(and stiffer) than the same diameter tubing. Actually, in bending, it's a
matter of moment of inertia. For the same weight, a tube will be stiffer,
yes, because you can make it larger diameter.
Dana, I stand corrected. I feel as if I've been had, or maybe the individual I was discussing it with attempted to put his knowledge into "layman's" terms for me. Since I don't know what your qualifications are, I called a copper tube factory closeby and spoke with an engineer and he backed up what you said about tubing may be ALMOST as strong, but never stronger. He also asked the logical question, "If tubing were stronger than a rod, why would anyone ever use a rod?" Makes me wonder about the time I was working on my US and an electrical engineer flew in. He saw me soldering joints for extra strength and he admonished me to crimp ONLY. He said that the solder would fracture with the vibration but the simple crimp wouldn't. When does one believe an expert?? Dave KulpBethlehem, PADana, I stand corrected. I feel as if I've been had, or maybe the individual I was discussing it with attempted to put his knowledge into "layman's" terms for me.
0
Quote:
Dana, I stand corrected. I feel as if I've been had, or maybe the individual I was discussing it with attempted to put his knowledge into "layman's" terms for me.
1
Quote:
Dana, I stand corrected. I feel as if I've been had, or maybe the individual I was discussing it with attempted to put his knowledge into "layman's" terms for me.
2

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 2:21 pm    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

At 05:06 PM 1/22/2007, David Kulp wrote:

Quote:
Quote:
Makes me wonder about the time
I was working on my US and an electrical engineer flew in. He saw
me soldering joints for extra strength and he admonished me to crimp
ONLY. He said that the solder would fracture with the vibration but
the simple crimp wouldn't. When does one believe an expert??

He has a good point. When you solder a connection, the solder flows into the wires and you have what's essentially a solid wire... which isn't as flexible as the original multi stranded wire.

I still tend to solder wires, though... maybe because I don't have a good crimping tool. Too many of my crimped connections pull out of the terminal... but the wire doesn't break.

-Dana
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Joined: 31 Mar 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 23, 2007 6:56 am    Post subject: Tail wheel strut bending Reply with quote

"I still tend to solder wires, though... maybe because I don't have a good crimping tool. Too many of my crimped connections pull out of the terminal... but the wire doesn't break."

  -Dana
I'm with you on the soldered wires. Solder may crack but won't fall or pull out of the terminal. I simply go the extra mile and put 2 layers of heat shrink past any solder in the wire for better flex.

Vic
Me.
[quote][b]


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