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bo124rs(at)hotmail.com
Guest
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 Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 10:49 am Post subject: Basicwiring HELP |
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Diode, Smiodes, Iods..........................................how can I do
this, or can I do this, with the simplest of installs? Can I go one switch
up for high, down for low. Each yellow wire is labeled HI one one LO on the
other. Is it even possible. I was just looking for a way to use one of the
switches I have left over to and possibly tie all the yellow HI's together,
all the LO's together and Shazam.........either high intensity or low
intensity.............with no middle ground.
It's OK if you call me electrically stupid, I'll answer to that:-), just
don't talk diodes, smiodes and iods.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
[quote]From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Basis wiring HELP
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2007 13:20:38 -0500
Actually, for the same voltage drop and the same current draw there WILL be
exactly the same heating of the diodes, albeit spread over all the diodes
used vs the one resistor used.
Diodes do have the advantage you pointed out of having a relatively
constant voltage drop up to their rated current.
Dick Tasker
Bill Boyd wrote:
>
>
>A diode differs from a resistor in this application; the forward drop
>in voltage across a diode is virtually constant regardless of current
>draw. As long as diode current ratings are followed, there will not
>be excessive heating of the diode in this application (similar to the
>wattage rating of a resistor, but you have to know the final current
>ahead of time to size one of those.)
>
>Just more to think about.
>
>-Bill
>
>On 1/20/07, Charles Reiche <charlieray(at)optonline.net> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>Dana,
>>The main problem with Bright/Dim kind of circuits is that you have to
>>know
>>the over all current flow for all the lights per circuit. If you go and
>>change something in the future of one set of bulbs burn out, it changes
>>your
>>total brightness on the dim setting. You do this with the basic V=IR
>>equation, you have to know the total current flow of your lights when
>>hooked
>>to your power source. Here is an example. I hook all my lights to a
>>power
>>supply that can give me my "running" voltage of about 13.85 volts when
>>the
>>airplane is running, with an ammeter inline I measure 2 amps of lighting
>>load..... 13.85 xI Solving for I you get 6.925 Ohms. This is the basic
>>resistance of all your lights put together. To make the lights half dim,
>>you need to make the resistance twice that of what you start with. So you
>>need a 7 ohm resistor that is rated for, P=IE..... P= 2x13.85 so roughly
>>30
>>Watts!!! Thats kind of a LARGE resistor. and its there under your panel
>>in
>>a small place baking away making heat. I would suggest researching
>>Transistorized dimming circuits like the one here that EDMO dealers sell.
>>http://www.edmo.com/index.php?module=products&func=display&prod_id=18485
>>
>>I know you are pressed for time and have put all the HARD parts off till
>>the
>>last minute  but I think you will find a variable dimming system will
>>make
>>your night flying much more enjoyable.
>>
>>An appropriately rated rehostat will dissapate power (again a heat
>>machine
>>under your panel) and something like this may be what you want...
>>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/rheostat.php
>>put a on off switch ahead of this sucker so its not contantly making heat
>>when you have the lights off.
>>
>>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/lc40.php
>>This system looks nice due to its 4 channels of 1.5A each that can be
>>tied
>>together and controlled with one knob.
>>I suggest keeping radios separate from flight instruments due to
>>variations
>>in overall brightness.
>>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/k11aircraft.php
>>This one has an adjustable master following system where you can have
>>those
>>bright systems lag behind say the less bright flight instruments.
>>
>>Hope some of this helps.
>>
>>Charles Reiche
>>
>>---
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fstringham
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 87
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| Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 11:50 am Post subject: Basicwiring HELP |
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|
Dana
Man do I here Ya.....When I got into the electrical it was like
...well.....a new language. Then it hit me. As a chemistry teacher I would
tell my student learn the language and you will learn the science.
Soooooooooo.....off I went: Read Aeroelecrtric by Bob, asked many ???????? (
got shot down because my question usually didn't make sense...must be
speaking the wrong language), check out alot of builders web sites,
persisted until I finally realized that, unlike the building of the
airframe, there was no plan to follow. So was off to decided on the mission
of the plane which would dictate the electrical plan. From that point it
slowly got me to the point of the very specific......which wire, where to
wire, which size, diode or not, DPDT, DPST, SPST Switch, RELAY OR NOT and on
and on...............With all this said it has been a great learning
experience.....even when Bob gave me a taste of my own teaching Medicine.
I am also sure that your local EAA will have an electrically correct
individual to help you through the rough learning / building spots.
Dana if you feel inclined give me a email and maybe I can be of some help
off list.
Build on and enjoy
Frank RV7A wiring/fiberglass/FWF stuff ..............
[quote]From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs(at)hotmail.com>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Basicwiring HELP
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2007 13:49:07 -0500
Diode, Smiodes, Iods..........................................how can I do
this, or can I do this, with the simplest of installs? Can I go one switch
up for high, down for low. Each yellow wire is labeled HI one one LO on
the other. Is it even possible. I was just looking for a way to use one
of the switches I have left over to and possibly tie all the yellow HI's
together, all the LO's together and Shazam.........either high intensity or
low intensity.............with no middle ground.
It's OK if you call me electrically stupid, I'll answer to that:-), just
don't talk diodes, smiodes and iods.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Basis wiring HELP
>Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2007 13:20:38 -0500
>
>
><retasker(at)optonline.net>
>
>Actually, for the same voltage drop and the same current draw there WILL
>be exactly the same heating of the diodes, albeit spread over all the
>diodes used vs the one resistor used.
>
>Diodes do have the advantage you pointed out of having a relatively
>constant voltage drop up to their rated current.
>
>Dick Tasker
>
>Bill Boyd wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>A diode differs from a resistor in this application; the forward drop
>>in voltage across a diode is virtually constant regardless of current
>>draw. As long as diode current ratings are followed, there will not
>>be excessive heating of the diode in this application (similar to the
>>wattage rating of a resistor, but you have to know the final current
>>ahead of time to size one of those.)
>>
>>Just more to think about.
>>
>>-Bill
>>
>>On 1/20/07, Charles Reiche <charlieray(at)optonline.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Dana,
>>>The main problem with Bright/Dim kind of circuits is that you have to
>>>know
>>>the over all current flow for all the lights per circuit. If you go and
>>>change something in the future of one set of bulbs burn out, it changes
>>>your
>>>total brightness on the dim setting. You do this with the basic V=IR
>>>equation, you have to know the total current flow of your lights when
>>>hooked
>>>to your power source. Here is an example. I hook all my lights to a
>>>power
>>>supply that can give me my "running" voltage of about 13.85 volts when
>>>the
>>>airplane is running, with an ammeter inline I measure 2 amps of lighting
>>>load..... 13.85 xI Solving for I you get 6.925 Ohms. This is the basic
>>>resistance of all your lights put together. To make the lights half
>>>dim,
>>>you need to make the resistance twice that of what you start with. So
>>>you
>>>need a 7 ohm resistor that is rated for, P=IE..... P= 2x13.85 so roughly
>>>30
>>>Watts!!! Thats kind of a LARGE resistor. and its there under your panel
>>>in
>>>a small place baking away making heat. I would suggest researching
>>>Transistorized dimming circuits like the one here that EDMO dealers
>>>sell.
>>>http://www.edmo.com/index.php?module=products&func=display&prod_id=18485
>>>
>>>I know you are pressed for time and have put all the HARD parts off till
>>>the
>>>last minute but I think you will find a variable dimming system will
>>>make
>>>your night flying much more enjoyable.
>>>
>>>An appropriately rated rehostat will dissapate power (again a heat
>>>machine
>>>under your panel) and something like this may be what you want...
>>>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/rheostat.php
>>>put a on off switch ahead of this sucker so its not contantly making
>>>heat
>>>when you have the lights off.
>>>
>>>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/lc40.php
>>>This system looks nice due to its 4 channels of 1.5A each that can be
>>>tied
>>>together and controlled with one knob.
>>>I suggest keeping radios separate from flight instruments due to
>>>variations
>>>in overall brightness.
>>>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/k11aircraft.php
>>>This one has an adjustable master following system where you can have
>>>those
>>>bright systems lag behind say the less bright flight instruments.
>>>
>>>Hope some of this helps.
>>>
>>>Charles Reiche
>>>
>>>---
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charlieray(at)optonline.n
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 12:00 pm Post subject: Basicwiring HELP |
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The two wires are power and ground HI (power) and LO (ground)
---
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retasker(at)optonline.net
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 12:25 pm Post subject: Basicwiring HELP |
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You can probably do what you want. However, unless you want someone to
size the components (that have to dissipate the wasted energy) large
enough for the most outrageously lighted panel, you have to give us some
idea what the total current required for the lighting you want to control.
In addition, the setting that might make one instrument just right when
set to the low setting might make another too bright or too dim. The
string of diodes could be a solution for this, but as noted, we need
some idea how much current you will be controlling.
Sorry that there is not a "one size fits all" solution, but everyone's
panel is different.
Dick Tasker
Dana Overall wrote:
[quote]
Diode, Smiodes, Iods..........................................how can
I do this, or can I do this, with the simplest of installs? Can I go
one switch up for high, down for low. Each yellow wire is labeled HI
one one LO on the other. Is it even possible. I was just looking for
a way to use one of the switches I have left over to and possibly tie
all the yellow HI's together, all the LO's together and
Shazam.........either high intensity or low intensity.............with
no middle ground.
It's OK if you call me electrically stupid, I'll answer to that:-),
just don't talk diodes, smiodes and iods.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
> From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Basis wiring HELP
> Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2007 13:20:38 -0500
>
>
> <retasker(at)optonline.net>
>
> Actually, for the same voltage drop and the same current draw there
> WILL be exactly the same heating of the diodes, albeit spread over
> all the diodes used vs the one resistor used.
>
> Diodes do have the advantage you pointed out of having a relatively
> constant voltage drop up to their rated current.
>
> Dick Tasker
>
> Bill Boyd wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> A diode differs from a resistor in this application; the forward drop
>> in voltage across a diode is virtually constant regardless of current
>> draw. As long as diode current ratings are followed, there will not
>> be excessive heating of the diode in this application (similar to the
>> wattage rating of a resistor, but you have to know the final current
>> ahead of time to size one of those.)
>>
>> Just more to think about.
>>
>> -Bill
>>
>> On 1/20/07, Charles Reiche <charlieray(at)optonline.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> <charlieray(at)optonline.net>
>>>
>>> Dana,
>>> The main problem with Bright/Dim kind of circuits is that you have
>>> to know
>>> the over all current flow for all the lights per circuit. If you go
>>> and
>>> change something in the future of one set of bulbs burn out, it
>>> changes your
>>> total brightness on the dim setting. You do this with the basic V=IR
>>> equation, you have to know the total current flow of your lights
>>> when hooked
>>> to your power source. Here is an example. I hook all my lights to
>>> a power
>>> supply that can give me my "running" voltage of about 13.85 volts
>>> when the
>>> airplane is running, with an ammeter inline I measure 2 amps of
>>> lighting
>>> load..... 13.85 xI Solving for I you get 6.925 Ohms. This is the
>>> basic
>>> resistance of all your lights put together. To make the lights
>>> half dim,
>>> you need to make the resistance twice that of what you start with.
>>> So you
>>> need a 7 ohm resistor that is rated for, P=IE..... P= 2x13.85 so
>>> roughly 30
>>> Watts!!! Thats kind of a LARGE resistor. and its there under your
>>> panel in
>>> a small place baking away making heat. I would suggest researching
>>> Transistorized dimming circuits like the one here that EDMO dealers
>>> sell.
>>> http://www.edmo.com/index.php?module=products&func=display&prod_id=18485
>>>
>>>
>>> I know you are pressed for time and have put all the HARD parts off
>>> till the
>>> last minute but I think you will find a variable dimming system
>>> will make
>>> your night flying much more enjoyable.
>>>
>>> An appropriately rated rehostat will dissapate power (again a heat
>>> machine
>>> under your panel) and something like this may be what you want...
>>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/rheostat.php
>>> put a on off switch ahead of this sucker so its not contantly
>>> making heat
>>> when you have the lights off.
>>>
>>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/lc40.php
>>> This system looks nice due to its 4 channels of 1.5A each that can
>>> be tied
>>> together and controlled with one knob.
>>> I suggest keeping radios separate from flight instruments due to
>>> variations
>>> in overall brightness.
>>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/k11aircraft.php
>>> This one has an adjustable master following system where you can
>>> have those
>>> bright systems lag behind say the less bright flight instruments.
>>>
>>> Hope some of this helps.
>>>
>>> Charles Reiche
>>>
>>> ---
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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 2:35 pm Post subject: Basicwiring HELP |
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Dick,
Isn't there an electrical guru in your EAA chapter? It sounds like you could
use a little hands on help there.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
do not archive
In a message dated 1/20/2007 3:27:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
retasker(at)optonline.net writes:
You can probably do what you want. However, unless you want someone to
size the components (that have to dissipate the wasted energy) large
enough for the most outrageously lighted panel, you have to give us some
idea what the total current required for the lighting you want to control.
In addition, the setting that might make one instrument just right when
set to the low setting might make another too bright or too dim. The
string of diodes could be a solution for this, but as noted, we need
some idea how much current you will be controlling.
Sorry that there is not a "one size fits all" solution, but everyone's
panel is different.
Dick Tasker
| | - The Matronics RV-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 2:44 pm Post subject: Basicwiring HELP |
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Sorry, Dick. I meant Dana, of course.
Dan
do not archive
In a message dated 1/20/2007 5:37:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:
Dick,
Isn't there an electrical guru in your EAA chapter? It sounds like you could
use a little hands on help there.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
| | - The Matronics RV-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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bo124rs(at)hotmail.com
Guest
|
| Posted: Sat Jan 20, 2007 4:28 pm Post subject: Basicwiring HELP |
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|
Good enough, all this answers my question. One switch won't do it. Gang,
really thanks. These HI/LO wire are truly the ONLY wires not hooked up on
my panel, everything works quite nicely. I'll make a trip to the Aero Radio
Shack and finish the plug and play tomorrow. I was just looking for a quick
and easy fix...............................oh, well:-)
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
| Quote: | From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Basicwiring HELP
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2007 17:38:36 EST
Sorry, Dick. I meant Dana, of course.
Dan
do not archive
In a message dated 1/20/2007 5:37:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh(at)aol.com writes:
Dick,
Isn't there an electrical guru in your EAA chapter? It sounds like you
could
use a little hands on help there.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
|
_________________________________________________________________
The MSN Entertainment Guide to Golden Globes is here. Get all the scoop.
http://tv.msn.com/tv/globes2007/?icid=nctagline2
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dmaib@me.com
Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 455
Location: New Smyrna Beach, Florida
|
| Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 4:23 am Post subject: Basicwiring HELP |
|
|
Dana,
The airplane I fly at work has just such a switch, so I know it can
be done. However, I am severely electrically challenged, so cannot
answer the rest of your question. Diode, Smiodes,
Iods........................ I feel your pain!
Do not Archive
David Maib
#40559
On Jan 20, 2007, at 12:49 PM, Dana Overall wrote:
Diode, Smiodes, Iods..........................................how can
I do this, or can I do this, with the simplest of installs? Can I go
one switch up for high, down for low. Each yellow wire is labeled HI
one one LO on the other. Is it even possible. I was just looking
for a way to use one of the switches I have left over to and possibly
tie all the yellow HI's together, all the LO's together and
Shazam.........either high intensity or low
intensity.............with no middle ground.
It's OK if you call me electrically stupid, I'll answer to that:-),
just don't talk diodes, smiodes and iods.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
[quote] From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Basis wiring HELP
Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2007 13:20:38 -0500
<retasker(at)optonline.net>
Actually, for the same voltage drop and the same current draw there
WILL be exactly the same heating of the diodes, albeit spread over
all the diodes used vs the one resistor used.
Diodes do have the advantage you pointed out of having a relatively
constant voltage drop up to their rated current.
Dick Tasker
Bill Boyd wrote:
>
>
> A diode differs from a resistor in this application; the forward drop
> in voltage across a diode is virtually constant regardless of current
> draw. As long as diode current ratings are followed, there will not
> be excessive heating of the diode in this application (similar to the
> wattage rating of a resistor, but you have to know the final current
> ahead of time to size one of those.)
>
> Just more to think about.
>
> -Bill
>
> On 1/20/07, Charles Reiche <charlieray(at)optonline.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> <charlieray(at)optonline.net>
>>
>> Dana,
>> The main problem with Bright/Dim kind of circuits is that you
>> have to know
>> the over all current flow for all the lights per circuit. If you
>> go and
>> change something in the future of one set of bulbs burn out, it
>> changes your
>> total brightness on the dim setting. You do this with the basic V=IR
>> equation, you have to know the total current flow of your lights
>> when hooked
>> to your power source. Here is an example. I hook all my lights
>> to a power
>> supply that can give me my "running" voltage of about 13.85 volts
>> when the
>> airplane is running, with an ammeter inline I measure 2 amps of
>> lighting
>> load..... 13.85 xI Solving for I you get 6.925 Ohms. This is
>> the basic
>> resistance of all your lights put together. To make the lights
>> half dim,
>> you need to make the resistance twice that of what you start
>> with. So you
>> need a 7 ohm resistor that is rated for, P=IE..... P= 2x13.85 so
>> roughly 30
>> Watts!!! Thats kind of a LARGE resistor. and its there under
>> your panel in
>> a small place baking away making heat. I would suggest researching
>> Transistorized dimming circuits like the one here that EDMO
>> dealers sell.
>> http://www.edmo.com/index.php?
>> module=products&func=display&prod_id=18485
>>
>> I know you are pressed for time and have put all the HARD parts
>> off till the
>> last minute but I think you will find a variable dimming
>> system will make
>> your night flying much more enjoyable.
>>
>> An appropriately rated rehostat will dissapate power (again a
>> heat machine
>> under your panel) and something like this may be what you want...
>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/rheostat.php
>> put a on off switch ahead of this sucker so its not contantly
>> making heat
>> when you have the lights off.
>>
>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/lc40.php
>> This system looks nice due to its 4 channels of 1.5A each that
>> can be tied
>> together and controlled with one knob.
>> I suggest keeping radios separate from flight instruments due to
>> variations
>> in overall brightness.
>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/k11aircraft.php
>> This one has an adjustable master following system where you can
>> have those
>> bright systems lag behind say the less bright flight instruments.
>>
>> Hope some of this helps.
>>
>> Charles Reiche
>>
>> ---
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_________________
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL |
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lhelming(at)sigecom.net
Guest
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| Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 4:54 am Post subject: Basicwiring HELP |
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|
Heck, Dana, I am electrically challenged myself. I am humble. do not
archive
Sure, you could use one switch and put a resistor in it and run it to all
your lights. One of the others responded and gave you a very answer.
Depending what each lighted instrument requires, the brightness might be
less or more than desired with the SIMPLE approach. I used the knob thingy
from Vans. It works. Heck, it is an experimental plane. You could put on
some sunglasses each time you look at one particular instrument if it is too
bright. Better to put a resistor on each instrument low setting to get it
just the way you want that one. Then do the next one. I prefer the switch
to turn the lights off or on and the rheostat to bring them up or down to
desired brightness. I only used the rheostat, and I am creating hear all
the time which is nice in the winter. I did not want another switch on the
panel. Keep it simple. Hope this helps. Best wishes. Sounds like you
will be ready for your fly in in a month or so. I am going on a cruise and
am not sure if I will be able to make it this year. So, you might need so
many donuts.
Larry
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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 4:55 am Post subject: Basicwiring HELP |
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Dana,
Not sure if this will help or not, but attached is a way to dim panel lights
with only a DPDT switch. No resistors or dimmer circuitry is necessary.
You need to group the loads so that the total current draw of the top half
and bottom half are the same, or one group will be dimmer than the other when
the switch is in the dim position (or LO).
If you don't have a center off switch, you could put another switch in the
line to plus 12 volts.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
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cgreimer(at)mts.net
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| Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 8:22 pm Post subject: Basicwiring HELP |
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I think the diagram is incorrect. The bottom row of lamps needs to have
their lower terminals connected to +12V, not ground. Clever idea though.
Curt
---
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truflite(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 10:08 pm Post subject: Basicwiring HELP |
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Curt, the drawing is correct. On bright the center
wire is +12V, the other side is ground. One side
directly, and the other through the switch.
Dave
29 Years Journeyman Wireman
--- Curt Reimer <cgreimer(at)mts.net> wrote:
[quote]
<cgreimer(at)mts.net>
I think the diagram is incorrect. The bottom row of
lamps needs to have
their lower terminals connected to +12V, not ground.
Clever idea though.
Curt
---
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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 6:39 am Post subject: Basicwiring HELP |
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In a message dated 1/21/2007 11:25:08 PM Eastern Standard Time, cgreimer(at)mts.net writes:
| Quote: | --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer(at)mts.net>
I think the diagram is incorrect. The bottom row of lamps needs to have
their lower terminals connected to +12V, not ground. Clever idea though.
Curt |
Curt,
The original schematic was indeed wrong, but the second one should be OK. I wish there were a way to take back something you post. The original drawing will forever haunt me!
Dan
do not archive
[quote][b]
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