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dredmoody(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 10:25 am Post subject: 601XL Wing plumbing and wiring and control cables. |
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Many builders have strongly recommended leaving the rear and middle top skins clecoed until the very last moment possible to preserve access for wiring and rigging. I think that is the only reasonable way to proceed. Also, quite a few builders recommend making all or at least part of the front top skin removeable via nutplates or U-clips or J-clips and screws. I think that is a very good idea unless you are young and skinny and flexible enough to wriggle into the rudder pedal are upside down and face up to do any inspection or repair work between the panel and the firewall. I possess none of the aforementioned attributes so I will be installing a crapload of nutplates to allow removal of the entire front top skin.
If you accept this advice and do the same you will have little or no access issues when you do plumbing, wiring and rigging. Remember to plan so that once the rear and middle top skins are rivetted, critical things like connectors and turnbuckles can be accessed from some removeable hatch, fairing or from the cockpit.
Dred
601XL/Jabiru/middle top skin
---- Paul Mulwitz <p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att.net> wrote:
Quote: | I did the wiring and plumbing after the bottom skin was
riveted. This was the point when I installed the navigation lights
and strobes as well as the pitot and LRI probes.
Paul
XL fuselage
At 06:38 AM 2/9/2007, you wrote:
>
>
>When is it best to start doing this, after the two top and bottom
>skins and on and clecoed (but not riveted), and before the nose skin
>is even messed with? Anybody have and timelines as to when they did
>all they internal work.
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larry(at)macsmachine.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 10:58 am Post subject: 601XL Wing plumbing and wiring and control cables. |
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Dred,
I'd recommend you not use nutplates, but do use u-nuts and j-nuts to do
the forward top skin. Too much effort in
installing nut plates and little room to work with if you have a header
tank at the firewall and instruments at the other.
The cost versus effective holding, repair, replacement and install
really favors 6-32 u-nut/j-nut installation in this particular area.
Well said, you're going to appreciate the ease of access anyway. There
are ways to make it easier to remove the fwd top
skin too.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
dredmoody(at)cox.net wrote:
Quote: |
Many builders have strongly recommended leaving the rear and middle top skins clecoed until the very last moment possible to preserve access for wiring and rigging. I think that is the only reasonable way to proceed. Also, quite a few builders recommend making all or at least part of the front top skin removeable via nutplates or U-clips or J-clips and screws. I think that is a very good idea unless you are young and skinny and flexible enough to wriggle into the rudder pedal are upside down and face up to do any inspection or repair work between the panel and the firewall. I possess none of the aforementioned attributes so I will be installing a crapload of nutplates to allow removal of the entire front top skin.
If you accept this advice and do the same you will have little or no access issues when you do plumbing, wiring and rigging. Remember to plan so that once the rear and middle top skins are rivetted, critical things like connectors and turnbuckles can be accessed from some removeable hatch, fairing or from the cockpit.
Dred
601XL/Jabiru/middle top skin
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