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dredmoody(at)cox.net
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 Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 11:37 am Post subject: 601XL Wing plumbing and wiring and control cables. |
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Thanks for the input Larry. I am pretty hard-headedly set on the nutplates. I have a lot of experience in setting them..... I have dimpling and solid rivet squeezing equipment and I like the way they work. You are most certainly correct about them taking more time, more money, and more effort, but I'm okay with that. The skin to airframe conatct and support is superior with the nutplate as opposed to a cilp nut.... a small point but a valid one all the same. No header tank in my 601XL. I'm running two Facet pumps in the wing roots, then on to the selector valve, then Gascolator, inline filter, mechanical pump, then carb. May need a pressure regulator but I won't know that until I test the system.
I plan on dimpling for flathead screws mostly for the esthetics, but also to avoid any canopy weatherseal interferrance. My dad and I are having a good time together working on this and while flying is the ultimate goal, timing doesn't trump everything else in the equation for us.
Dred
Do Not Archive
---- LarryMcFarland <larry(at)macsmachine.com> wrote:
| Quote: |
Dred,
I'd recommend you not use nutplates, but do use u-nuts and j-nuts to do
the forward top skin. Too much effort in
installing nut plates and little room to work with if you have a header
tank at the firewall and instruments at the other.
The cost versus effective holding, repair, replacement and install
really favors 6-32 u-nut/j-nut installation in this particular area.
Well said, you're going to appreciate the ease of access anyway. There
are ways to make it easier to remove the fwd top
skin too.
Larry McFarland - 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
dredmoody(at)cox.net wrote:
>
>
> Many builders have strongly recommended leaving the rear and middle top skins clecoed until the very last moment possible to preserve access for wiring and rigging. I think that is the only reasonable way to proceed. Also, quite a few builders recommend making all or at least part of the front top skin removeable via nutplates or U-clips or J-clips and screws. I think that is a very good idea unless you are young and skinny and flexible enough to wriggle into the rudder pedal are upside down and face up to do any inspection or repair work between the panel and the firewall. I possess none of the aforementioned attributes so I will be installing a crapload of nutplates to allow removal of the entire front top skin.
>
> If you accept this advice and do the same you will have little or no access issues when you do plumbing, wiring and rigging. Remember to plan so that once the rear and middle top skins are rivetted, critical things like connectors and turnbuckles can be accessed from some removeable hatch, fairing or from the cockpit.
>
> Dred
> 601XL/Jabiru/middle top skin
>
>
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amyvega2005(at)earthlink.
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| Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 12:20 pm Post subject: 601XL Wing plumbing and wiring and control cables. |
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just -pleace a bottom hatch, they are in the plans.
Juan
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